Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Kindling maker
202 views
Skip to first unread message
Steve B
Dec 19, 2012, 11:56:55 AM12/19/12
to
I want to make a hand operated kindling maker. When I split logs, I split
some about 1? thick, kind of like planks. But I don't like using a hatchet,
knowing me and the laws of probability will probably get me the nickname of
Stumpy eventually.
Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the piece
of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's the most
leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the end of the
handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood to cut off a
small slice.
Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real bad.
Steve
some about 1? thick, kind of like planks. But I don't like using a hatchet,
knowing me and the laws of probability will probably get me the nickname of
Stumpy eventually.
Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the piece
of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's the most
leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the end of the
handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood to cut off a
small slice.
Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real bad.
Steve
Jim Wilkins
Dec 19, 2012, 1:46:09 PM12/19/12
to
"Steve B" <ste...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kasrjt$5r8$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe
jsw
news:kasrjt$5r8$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
jsw
John B.
Dec 19, 2012, 10:31:04 PM12/19/12
to
On Wed, 19 Dec 2012 09:56:55 -0700, "Steve B" <ste...@gmail.com>
wrote:
My dad used a 12 year old kid to make kindling - paid him $0.10 an
hour as I remember. (I've still got all my fingers :?)
--
Cheers,
John B.
wrote:
hour as I remember. (I've still got all my fingers :?)
--
Cheers,
John B.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Dec 20, 2012, 6:59:40 AM12/20/12
to
> On Wed, 19 Dec 2012 09:56:55 -0700, "Steve B" <ste...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small
>>kindling sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model
>>like the old beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge,
>>putting the piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever,
>>where there's the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a
>>bolt through the end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a
>>standing piece of wood to cut off a small slice.
Matic slicer.
That sounds like a worthy metalworking project to me!
LLoyd
Stumpy
Dec 20, 2012, 11:17:23 AM12/20/12
to
>
> Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
> to cut off a small slice.
>
> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
> bad.
>
> Steve
English "Captive hatchet"
> Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
> to cut off a small slice.
>
> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
> bad.
>
> Steve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
Yeah, I'm Stumpy
Pete Keillor
Dec 20, 2012, 11:40:49 AM12/20/12
to
On Thu, 20 Dec 2012 08:17:23 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.con>
wrote:
>>
>> Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
>> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
>> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
>> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
>> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
>> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
>> to cut off a small slice.
>>
>> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
>> bad.
>>
>> Steve
>
>
>English "Captive hatchet"
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
That for damn sure ain't live oak.
wrote:
>>
>> Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
>> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
>> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
>> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
>> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
>> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
>> to cut off a small slice.
>>
>> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
>> bad.
>>
>> Steve
>
>
>English "Captive hatchet"
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
PrecisionmachinisT
Dec 20, 2012, 12:11:52 PM12/20/12
to
"Jim Wilkins" <murat...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kat218$1gl$1...@dont-email.me...
Recalling that we used an old bowling pin for a mallet.
Steve W.
Dec 20, 2012, 1:34:19 PM12/20/12
to
--
Steve W.
Fred C. Dobbs
Dec 20, 2012, 1:46:58 PM12/20/12
to
I think you could maybe use the sharp point on little jonny banquet's
head to make some kindling. It's only good for use on sticks as thick
as your thumb, though.
--
Any more lip out of you and I'll haul off and let you have it...if you
know what's good for you, you won't monkey around with Fred C. Dobbs.
head to make some kindling. It's only good for use on sticks as thick
as your thumb, though.
--
Any more lip out of you and I'll haul off and let you have it...if you
know what's good for you, you won't monkey around with Fred C. Dobbs.
Jim Wilkins
Dec 20, 2012, 9:24:55 PM12/20/12
to
"PrecisionmachinisT" <precisionm...@notmail.com> wrote in
message >
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2h1ofWW35k
jsw
message >
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe
>
> Yup.
>
> Recalling that we used an old bowling pin for a mallet.
To be pedantic, you beat on a froe with a "beetle".
>
> Yup.
>
> Recalling that we used an old bowling pin for a mallet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2h1ofWW35k
jsw
Jim Wilkins
Dec 20, 2012, 9:39:56 PM12/20/12
to
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kavlnk$mmn$1...@dont-email.me...
> ...
I watched one at an antique engine meet. The operator ran it
continuously and it looked like a fast way to lose meat. The froe
keeps the wood from falling over with your steadying hand above the
descending edge rather than below it. A slow-moving hydraulic splitter
is dangerous enough as is.
jsw
news:kavlnk$mmn$1...@dont-email.me...
> ...
> Home built trip hammer with a splitting edge instead of a hammer
> head.
> Steve W.
> head.
I watched one at an antique engine meet. The operator ran it
continuously and it looked like a fast way to lose meat. The froe
keeps the wood from falling over with your steadying hand above the
descending edge rather than below it. A slow-moving hydraulic splitter
is dangerous enough as is.
jsw
Gunner
Dec 22, 2012, 7:32:45 AM12/22/12
to
On Thu, 20 Dec 2012 08:17:23 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.con>
wrote:
>>
wrote:
>>
>> Anyone see or could suggest a model for just splitting off small kindling
>> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
>> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
>> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
>> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
>> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
>> to cut off a small slice.
>>
>> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
>> bad.
>>
>> Steve
>
>
>English "Captive hatchet"
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>> sized pieces of wood? I was thinking of making a hand model like the old
>> beer can piercers of the 1950's with a lever and a wedge, putting the
>> piece of wood close to the attachment point of the lever, where there's
>> the most leverage. Or make a hatchet that would have a bolt through the
>> end of the handle, and just drop onto the end of a standing piece of wood
>> to cut off a small slice.
>>
>> Looking for something slightly automated, as carpal tunnel getting real
>> bad.
>>
>> Steve
>
>
>English "Captive hatchet"
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
Thanks for posting that!!
Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
The methodology of the left has always been:
1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Gunner
Dec 22, 2012, 7:35:28 AM12/22/12
to
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=_olacH1hlWg&NR=1
I LIKE IT!!!
Stumpy
Dec 23, 2012, 1:48:16 AM12/23/12
to
>>
>>
>>English "Captive hatchet"
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>
> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>
> Thanks for posting that!!
>
>
>>
>>http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>
>>Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>
> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>
>
You bet.
>>
>>English "Captive hatchet"
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>
> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>
> Thanks for posting that!!
>
>
>>
>>http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>
>>Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>
> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>
>
The Nordic one you showed Jim would be easier to fabricate.
Gunner
Dec 23, 2012, 8:29:53 AM12/23/12
to
On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 22:48:16 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
down trees every now and then.
Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
Gunner
wrote:
some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
down trees every now and then.
Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
Gunner
Michael A. Terrell
Dec 23, 2012, 9:31:52 AM12/23/12
to
Gunner wrote:
>
> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
> down trees every now and then.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
Larry Jaques
Dec 23, 2012, 10:27:00 AM12/23/12
to
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 05:29:53 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 22:48:16 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
>wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>English "Captive hatchet"
>>>>
>>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>>>
>>> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting that!!
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>>>
>>>>Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>>>
>>> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>You bet.
>>
>>The Nordic one you showed Jim would be easier to fabricate.
>
>Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>down trees every now and then.
>
>Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
No, the double wall would route the heat outside. Save the double
walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
(Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?) That keeps bare arms and
hands away from the hot pipe, too.
Got a metal fabber and folder? Make your own tube from sheetmetal.
Audel put out a handy book on sheetmetal work early in the last
century and it's still valid.
--
Learning to ignore things is one of the great paths to inner peace.
-- Robert J. Sawyer
wrote:
>On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 22:48:16 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
>wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>English "Captive hatchet"
>>>>
>>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>>>
>>> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting that!!
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>>>
>>>>Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>>>
>>> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>You bet.
>>
>>The Nordic one you showed Jim would be easier to fabricate.
>
>Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>down trees every now and then.
>
>Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
(Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?) That keeps bare arms and
hands away from the hot pipe, too.
Got a metal fabber and folder? Make your own tube from sheetmetal.
Audel put out a handy book on sheetmetal work early in the last
century and it's still valid.
--
Learning to ignore things is one of the great paths to inner peace.
-- Robert J. Sawyer
Jim Wilkins
Dec 23, 2012, 11:01:28 AM12/23/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:el1ed890r7ctou4eu...@4ax.com...
> ..
Mine is set up like Type #2. Having the cleanout plug in line and
outdoors makes cleaning it easy and neat. I spray-painted the chimney
to match the house.
news:el1ed890r7ctou4eu...@4ax.com...
> ..
> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on
> occasion
> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
> down trees every now and then.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
> Gunner
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove
> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on
> occasion
> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
> down trees every now and then.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
> Gunner
Mine is set up like Type #2. Having the cleanout plug in line and
outdoors makes cleaning it easy and neat. I spray-painted the chimney
to match the house.
whoyakidding
Dec 23, 2012, 11:01:39 AM12/23/12
to
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 07:27:00 -0800, Larry Jaques
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 05:29:53 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 05:29:53 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>>Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
>No, the double wall would route the heat outside. Save the double
>walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
>capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
>(Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?)
Ah... so you know about his POS "shop" and suspect that years later
>>need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
>No, the double wall would route the heat outside. Save the double
>walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
>capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
>(Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?)
it's still not closed in. That's because you know how lazy slobs
function, or more correctly, don't function. It's clear he doesn't
know the first thing about woodstoves. Yet you're giving him advice on
installing one? Even if he somehow gets it going he'll burn all sorts
of crap in it. Do you really think he's going to clean his chimney
every year? The fact is he's way more likely than the average guy to
fuck it up and burn down his dunny. Oh well, I'm sure his insurance
company will be sympathetic about an amateur cheap ass woodstove
installation. As if he pays insurance!
>Got a metal fabber and folder? Make your own tube from sheetmetal.
people who spend their lives pretending that they might someday
suddenly find motivation.
Jim Wilkins
Dec 23, 2012, 11:43:14 AM12/23/12
to
"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
creosote-collecting heat exchanger. The stack temperature needs to be
at or above 100C to maintain a good draft. A lot of experimentation
with thermocouples and a sensitive vacuum gauge merely confirmed that
the recommendations on the flue thermometer were correct.
http://www.condar.com/stovepipe_meters.html
> Got a metal fabber and folder? Make your own tube from sheetmetal.
> Audel put out a handy book on sheetmetal work early in the last
> century and it's still valid.
The one section of commercial single-wall stainless steel flue pipe I
have indoors was overlapped and spot-welded.
> No, the double wall would route the heat outside. Save the double
> walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
> capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
> (Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?) That keeps bare arms
> and
> hands away from the hot pipe, too.
My insurance cares only that it was inspected, and doesn't have a
> walled stuff for safely going thru walls/roofs. Devise a way to
> capture all of the heat from the pipe and blow it around the "shop".
> (Got full walls and a sealed envelope yet?) That keeps bare arms
> and
> hands away from the hot pipe, too.
creosote-collecting heat exchanger. The stack temperature needs to be
at or above 100C to maintain a good draft. A lot of experimentation
with thermocouples and a sensitive vacuum gauge merely confirmed that
the recommendations on the flue thermometer were correct.
http://www.condar.com/stovepipe_meters.html
> Got a metal fabber and folder? Make your own tube from sheetmetal.
> Audel put out a handy book on sheetmetal work early in the last
> century and it's still valid.
have indoors was overlapped and spot-welded.
David Billington
Dec 23, 2012, 12:03:41 PM12/23/12
to
Gunner wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 22:48:16 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
> wrote:
>
>
>>>> English "Captive hatchet"
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>>>>
>>> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting that!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> You bet.
>>
>> The Nordic one you showed Jim would be easier to fabricate.
>>
>
> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
> down trees every now and then.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
> Gunner
>
In the UK my local scrap metal places frequently have quite a selection
> On Sat, 22 Dec 2012 22:48:16 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
> wrote:
>
>
>>>> English "Captive hatchet"
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko0Dv26SCAA
>>>>
>>> Thats a pretty damned good idea!!
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting that!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> http://www.logsplittersworld.co.uk/p/Smart_14_Ton_Manual_Log_Splitter.htm
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I'm Stumpy
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Gunner, who lives in the desert where there is no wood.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> You bet.
>>
>> The Nordic one you showed Jim would be easier to fabricate.
>>
>
> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
> down trees every now and then.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>
> Gunner
>
of flue pipe in rigid and flexible, usually on the stainless pile and
often on good condition. Might be the same your way.
Gunner
Dec 23, 2012, 2:53:39 PM12/23/12
to
Fred C. Dobbs
Dec 23, 2012, 3:10:55 PM12/23/12
to
On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Gunner wrote:
>>>
>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>
>>
>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>
> Insurance? Whats that?
Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Gunner wrote:
>>>
>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>
>>
>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>
> Insurance? Whats that?
Gunner
Dec 23, 2012, 3:31:20 PM12/23/12
to
fireplaces and even fewer wood stoves. Gas or electric heating is the
standard. So finding flue pipe takes a miracle at the least.
My shop is a converted 14 x 60 car port with a deeply corregated steel
roof. The walls are particle board over 2x4s on 24" centers. I simply
put the walls up to keep the wind, dust and prowlers out. Roll up
door on one end..and open on the other..and open to the outside about
1/3. As I can afford to do so..Ill continue to close it off.
The floor is dirt. I tend to pour a small slab whenever I put a
machine tool in. I put the wood stove on an outside wall last winter
and ran it with a roof cap on the 5' of pipe that came with it. So it
smoked up the inside of the corregated ceiling, in about a 15
circle....but it kept me warm last winter.
Ive got two choices..going straight up through the heavy corregated
roof and then try to figure out how to seal it..or go at a 45 or 90
out through the wall and then upwards another 8 or so feet, to catch a
draft. Angles are expensive...$30 each when I can find them...so Id
prefer to go straight up and out. Though how to seal the hole in the
roof is what has been stopping me. The corregations are at least 4"
deep. and 4" wide. So using a 5-6" flue pipe will suck badly.
Doing it to :"code" may not be an option. Putting a wood stove "in a
manufactured home" may not even be legal here, despite the fact its
not Inside said home and there are no flammables within 4' of the
stove. I put sheet metal up on the nearest back wall...and the stove
is 18+ inches from that metal clad wall. The stove itself is a brick
lined, double walled firebox type stove similar to this one
http://www.lowes.com/pd_365201-66915-DB02800_0__?productId=3623494&Ntt=wood+stove&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dwood%2Bstove&facetInfo=
Works a treat though the internal draft I believe is too small and
needs to be increased about 10-25%. Unless the draft is wide
open..the stove goes out. Close it even a fraction..the stove goes
out. So..shrug..maybe thats why I got it for $20. Otherwise in new
condition. Heats the end of the shop well enough to not need gloves
and a parka in the coolest time of the winter, which is all I need.
That dark circle of smoke above it..isnt pretty. Shrug.... though it
does burn very cleanly, which I was surprised about.
whoyakidding
Dec 23, 2012, 4:06:52 PM12/23/12
to
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:31:20 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Horseshit.
> Roll up
>door on one end..and open on the other..and open to the outside about
>1/3.
What, no claims that sealed buildings are a rarity in California?
Anyway no problem. Just get a bigger stove. Yeah it'll take a lot more
wood but some of the heat might leak into somewhere useful. Neighbor's
birdhouse?
> As I can afford to do so..Ill continue to close it off.
Bwahahaha! You and your friends are going to hang hundreds of
thousands from lamp posts in the next week, and it's taking you how
many years to TALK about closing in a fucking carport?
>I put the wood stove on an outside wall last winter
>and ran it with a roof cap on the 5' of pipe that came with it. So it
>smoked up the inside of the corregated ceiling
Jeff Foxworthy might pay a couple bucks for that line.
>Though how to seal the hole in the
>roof is what has been stopping me.
That would be an impediment. Because NOBODY'S EVER put a curb on a
corrugated roof before.
>Doing it to :"code" may not be an option.
Apparently doing it to the same "code" as the existing work isn't even
an option. How many years back taxes would you have to pay before the
county would accept a permit application for anything from you?
>Works a treat though the internal draft I believe is too small and
>needs to be increased about 10-25%. Unless the draft is wide
>open..the stove goes out. Close it even a fraction..the stove goes
>out. So..shrug..maybe thats why I got it for $20.
It's a shock that it works so poorly with a 5' pipe. Maybe you should
try taking the pipe off altogether and get back to us with some new
calculation of those draft percentages.
>That dark circle of smoke above it..isnt pretty.
It should mix nicely with the brominated vegetable oil and perhaps
limit the number of years taxpayers will have to foot your hospital
bills.
> Shrug.... though it
>does burn very cleanly, which I was surprised about.
It's great to read reviews from experts like yourself. Please post a
recording of what the nearest cat thinks about the creosote levels.
wrote:
> Roll up
>door on one end..and open on the other..and open to the outside about
>1/3.
Anyway no problem. Just get a bigger stove. Yeah it'll take a lot more
wood but some of the heat might leak into somewhere useful. Neighbor's
birdhouse?
> As I can afford to do so..Ill continue to close it off.
thousands from lamp posts in the next week, and it's taking you how
many years to TALK about closing in a fucking carport?
>I put the wood stove on an outside wall last winter
>and ran it with a roof cap on the 5' of pipe that came with it. So it
>smoked up the inside of the corregated ceiling
>Though how to seal the hole in the
>roof is what has been stopping me.
corrugated roof before.
>Doing it to :"code" may not be an option.
an option. How many years back taxes would you have to pay before the
county would accept a permit application for anything from you?
>Works a treat though the internal draft I believe is too small and
>needs to be increased about 10-25%. Unless the draft is wide
>open..the stove goes out. Close it even a fraction..the stove goes
>out. So..shrug..maybe thats why I got it for $20.
try taking the pipe off altogether and get back to us with some new
calculation of those draft percentages.
>That dark circle of smoke above it..isnt pretty.
limit the number of years taxpayers will have to foot your hospital
bills.
> Shrug.... though it
>does burn very cleanly, which I was surprised about.
recording of what the nearest cat thinks about the creosote levels.
Gunner
Dec 23, 2012, 4:56:02 PM12/23/12
to
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:10:55 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
<trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>
>>>
>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>
>> Insurance? Whats that?
>
>Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
Oh..you mean Leftwingers? Sorry..while Im currently a Democrat...Im
<trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>
>>>
>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>
>> Insurance? Whats that?
>
>Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
hardly a leftwinger.
Gunner
Fred C. Dobbs
Dec 23, 2012, 4:57:08 PM12/23/12
to
On 12/23/2012 1:56 PM, Gunner wrote:
> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:10:55 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
> <trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>
>> On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>>
>>> Insurance? Whats that?
>>
>> Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
>
> Oh..you mean Leftwingers?
No, I mean irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you. If I had
> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:10:55 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
> <trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>
>> On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>>
>>> Insurance? Whats that?
>>
>> Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
>
> Oh..you mean Leftwingers?
meant left-wingers, I would have said so. I meant proto-Nazi far-right
cunthairs like you.
Gunner
Dec 23, 2012, 5:26:24 PM12/23/12
to
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 13:57:08 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
And while I may have a cunt hair between my teeth a time or two,now
and then, ...those cockhairs between your teeth are a bit..gross.
Know what I mean Herb?
<trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>On 12/23/2012 1:56 PM, Gunner wrote:
>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:10:55 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
>> <trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>>>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>>>
>>>> Insurance? Whats that?
>>>
>>> Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
>>
>> Oh..you mean Leftwingers?
>
>No, I mean irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you. If I had
>meant left-wingers, I would have said so. I meant proto-Nazi far-right
>cunthairs like you.
Sorry..Nazis are far left wing. And Im hardly leftwing.
>On 12/23/2012 1:56 PM, Gunner wrote:
>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 12:10:55 -0800, "Fred C. Dobbs"
>> <trea...@sierramadre.con> wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/23/2012 11:53 AM, Gunner wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 09:31:52 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>>>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Gunner wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ive got a as yet uninstalled wood stove in my shop and while I need
>>>>>> some stove pipe (expensive shit!!!) to go through a steel roof...I
>>>>>> think Ill fab up a spltter like that. I run into some wood on occasion
>>>>>> and while a lot of it is pine lumber scraps...I can snag a few cut
>>>>>> down trees every now and then.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone have any good ideas where to get stove pipe? And do I really
>>>>>> need double wall, simply for a shop heater?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ask your insurance company. You may lose all coverage if you don't.
>>>>
>>>> Insurance? Whats that?
>>>
>>> Something that irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you seldom carry.
>>
>> Oh..you mean Leftwingers?
>
>No, I mean irresponsible gun-crazed proto-Nazis like you. If I had
>meant left-wingers, I would have said so. I meant proto-Nazi far-right
>cunthairs like you.
And while I may have a cunt hair between my teeth a time or two,now
and then, ...those cockhairs between your teeth are a bit..gross.
Know what I mean Herb?
John B.
Dec 23, 2012, 7:51:27 PM12/23/12
to
houses - the favored technique was to run the stove pipe - single
wall, thin steel 7" - 8" pipe, straight up from the stove (to get it
out of the way) and then horizontally, a goodly distance across the
room to have a large area radiating heat, and then into the chimney,
or up through the roof.
Much of the heating ability of the installation came from the
stovepipe radiation.
The "through the roof" fittings was a, say 18" X 18" hole in the
timber a roof structure covered by a sheet metal "fitting" - think a
24" X 24" sheet of sheet metal with a 10 - 12" sheet metal tube, about
6" high in the middle. The sheet metal covers the hole in the roof,
the 8" stovepipe goes through the 10" tube and a cone shaped fitting
goes around the stovepipe to prevent rain and snow coming down around
the stove pipe.
Height of the pipe above the roof generally controlled how well the
chimney would "draw" (create draft).
Down stairs, where the stove, was you had a damper in the pipe and the
stove had a slide covered opening, usually in the door, and these two
devices controlled the draft (air flow) through the system.
The more draft the faster the wood burned but the less chance of the
stove "smoking".
Oh yes. The traditional method of supporting stovepipe was by using
"bailing wire" that you kept when you cut if off the hay bales. If you
had twine bailed stuff then you had to buy the wire down at the
Hardware Store (open late on Saturday).
It wasn't "rocket science".
--
Cheers,
John B.
whoyakidding
Dec 23, 2012, 9:49:30 PM12/23/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
wrote:
<snipped stove stuff>
>It wasn't "rocket science".
And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
wrote:
<snipped stove stuff>
>It wasn't "rocket science".
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
John B.
Dec 24, 2012, 6:39:31 AM12/24/12
to
in a galvanized iron roof.
For Gunner:
Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
:-)
--
Cheers,
John B.
whoyakidding
Dec 24, 2012, 9:49:17 AM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
the rest of the closing in?
This thread will be a great resource for the long list of readers
seeking advice on how to install a woodstove for heating the outdoors.
"Walls and insulation? We don't need no stinking walls and insulation"
- Usenet, RCM, 2012 BGC (before great cull)
wrote:
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof
Arf arf. Right after he "figures out" how to do the fourth wall and
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof
the rest of the closing in?
This thread will be a great resource for the long list of readers
seeking advice on how to install a woodstove for heating the outdoors.
"Walls and insulation? We don't need no stinking walls and insulation"
- Usenet, RCM, 2012 BGC (before great cull)
Gunner
Dec 24, 2012, 3:33:32 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.
From 2009
https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Shop2008#5410169980306390978
Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now
wrote:
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof.
>
>For Gunner:
>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>
>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>:-)
Might need to put on muffs and plugs <G>
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof.
>
>For Gunner:
>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>
>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>:-)
This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.
From 2009
https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Shop2008#5410169980306390978
Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now
Stumpy
Dec 24, 2012, 4:45:58 PM12/24/12
to
HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one directly
above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are open
and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the joint
together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the room
from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep the
combustion down in the stove.
Joseph Gwinn
Dec 24, 2012, 4:49:28 PM12/24/12
to
In article <ppqdnXfiOveIUEXN...@earthlink.com>,
Beware Zinc Fever from the evaporated zinc.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever>
Joe Gwinn
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever>
Joe Gwinn
Jim Wilkins
Dec 24, 2012, 5:22:24 PM12/24/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:rqehd85t2ni9n9nun...@4ax.com...
>
> This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not
> quite...galvanized
> iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
> then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
> corregations.
>
> Gunner
> This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not
> quite...galvanized
> iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
> then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
> corregations.
>
Mine works fine out through the basement wall and up the outside. The
cleanout is 30" above the dirt, enough space for a bucket underneath
to catch the soot. I use a weighted cleaning brush hanging from a
waterpipe jib crane to clean the chimney from the ground.
You might locate yours low enough to reach, high enough to get a
cleaning brush and rod in unless you can position a ladder to clean it
from the top, which is awkward but MUCH less unpleasant.
Sometimes you see a -brick- chimney built like that:
http://poetry.about.com/od/poems/l/blfrostchimney.htm
jsw
Larry Jaques
Dec 24, 2012, 5:52:44 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
Run it out the wall, maybe behind the belt sandah station, and clamp
it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely
no need to cut holes in the roof.
This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely
no need to cut holes in the roof.
This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
grmi...@rogers.com
Dec 24, 2012, 8:32:02 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
3/8" skil xtra tool (hammer drill). Started out with twenty two 3/16"
holes around the circumference then enlarged them from both sides,
then knocked the core out with a sledge and morta
ered in a piece of galvanized duct and mounted a damper/deflector over
the outside. took about a week allowing for tool cooling, thirst
quenching time. I probably would have saved a lot of time and beer
money by renting a core drill!
---
Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
wrote:
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof.
>
>For Gunner:
>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>
>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>:-)
In 1984 I put a dryer vent (4") through 10" poured foundation with a
>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>><snipped stove stuff>
>>
>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>
>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>
>
>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>in a galvanized iron roof.
>
>For Gunner:
>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>
>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>:-)
3/8" skil xtra tool (hammer drill). Started out with twenty two 3/16"
holes around the circumference then enlarged them from both sides,
then knocked the core out with a sledge and morta
ered in a piece of galvanized duct and mounted a damper/deflector over
the outside. took about a week allowing for tool cooling, thirst
quenching time. I probably would have saved a lot of time and beer
money by renting a core drill!
---
Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
John B.
Dec 24, 2012, 9:28:45 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
>><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>><snipped stove stuff>
>>>
>>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>>
>>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>>
>>
>>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>>in a galvanized iron roof.
>>
>>For Gunner:
>>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>>
>>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>>:-)
>
>Might need to put on muffs and plugs <G>
The guy was a member of the Air force pistol team as I was and had
>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
>><whoyak...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>><snipped stove stuff>
>>>
>>>>It wasn't "rocket science".
>>>
>>>And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
>>>and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
>>>Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
>>>and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
>>>boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
>>
>>
>>No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
>>in a galvanized iron roof.
>>
>>For Gunner:
>>Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
>>allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
>>was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
>>wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
>>
>>(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
>>:-)
>
>Might need to put on muffs and plugs <G>
brought out his brand new pistol to show the boys. We all got to shoot
it (mostly a single shot was sufficient experience) and were talking
about how powerful the damned thing was when he recounted the story
about the hole in the concrete wall. He said that he'd built a little
shelter out of scrap wood and was shooting through a hole in the side
of the shelter. Said that shrapnel was flying about some :-)
>This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
>iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
>then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
>corregations.
>
>From 2009
>
>https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Shop2008#5410169980306390978
>
>Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
>now
>
>Gunner
lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
20 minutes.
--
Cheers,
John B.
John B.
Dec 24, 2012, 9:34:55 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 13:45:58 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.
The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.
--
Cheers,
John B.
wrote:
lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.
The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.
--
Cheers,
John B.
Stumpy
Dec 24, 2012, 10:04:29 PM12/24/12
to
>>>
>>> I live in California. In most of the state...there are few
>>> fireplaces and even fewer wood stoves. Gas or electric heating is the
>>> standard. So finding flue pipe takes a miracle at the least.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I live in California. In most of the state...there are few
>>> fireplaces and even fewer wood stoves. Gas or electric heating is the
>>> standard. So finding flue pipe takes a miracle at the least.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>I've been doing some tests with the galvanized sheetmetal ducts available
>>at
>>HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one
>>directly
>>above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are open
>>and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the joint
>>together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
>>from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
>>white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the room
>>from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep the
>>combustion down in the stove.
>
> The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
> lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
> make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
> get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.
>
> The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
> enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.
>
Just doing tests. Got it nice and hot, then ran up to full heat with
>>at
>>HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one
>>directly
>>above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are open
>>and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the joint
>>together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
>>from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
>>white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the room
>>from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep the
>>combustion down in the stove.
>
> The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
> lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
> make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
> get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.
>
> The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
> enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.
>
hardwood slats. Flames were going up a couple of feet in the pipe. Normal
use is with both dampers closed so I don't spend so much time with the
sawbuck. I ventilated the area when curing the stove and pipe. I've heard
of zinc fume fever before. Used to cook over charcoal in galvanized
washtubs.
Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of
SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
Gunner
Dec 24, 2012, 10:09:13 PM12/24/12
to
a price I can afford is an issue around here.
>
>
>This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
>Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
Nice rig!!
Gunner
Dec 24, 2012, 10:44:31 PM12/24/12
to
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:28:45 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle
of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.
So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.
"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
then.
of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.
So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.
"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
then.
Gunner
Dec 24, 2012, 10:45:51 PM12/24/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:04:29 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles
wrote:
Michael A. Terrell
Dec 24, 2012, 11:55:59 PM12/24/12
to
Gunner wrote:
>
> Stumpy wrote:
>
> >Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of
> >SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>
> Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles
Sounds like he's talking about the old galvanized furnace duct that
> Stumpy wrote:
>
> >Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of
> >SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>
> Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles
runs to the registers.
Do you ever catch someone junking an old mobile home? They have an
insulated flue that would work, and they aren't worth much as scrap.
Larry Jaques
Dec 25, 2012, 12:31:59 AM12/25/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:09:13 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
So get thee to a library and grab the Audel Handy Book to make it
yourself.
>>This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
>>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
>>Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
>
>Build it..and we will come!!!
>
>Nice rig!!
I'm only $100k short for a Mog.
yourself.
>>This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
>>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
>>Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
>
>Build it..and we will come!!!
>
>Nice rig!!
Stumpy
Dec 25, 2012, 1:48:47 AM12/25/12
to
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 3:52:40 AM12/25/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 21:31:59 -0800, Larry Jaques
Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug
This one is only $13k and only has 6500 miles on it
http://unimogshop.com/ads/unimog-404-for-sale-4/
There are others for less than $5k available.
stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug
>
>
>>>This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
>>>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
>>>Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
>>
>>Build it..and we will come!!!
>>
>>Nice rig!!
>
>I'm only $100k short for a Mog.
?? The most expensive one I could find was a customized one for $30k
>
>>>This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
>>>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20121127/CARREVIEWS/121129903
>>>Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.
>>
>>Build it..and we will come!!!
>>
>>Nice rig!!
>
>I'm only $100k short for a Mog.
This one is only $13k and only has 6500 miles on it
http://unimogshop.com/ads/unimog-404-for-sale-4/
There are others for less than $5k available.
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 4:34:28 AM12/25/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
can order it.
wrote:
can order it.
Jim Wilkins
Dec 25, 2012, 7:10:08 AM12/25/12
to
"Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn> wrote in message
news:54udnbYijO8nikTN...@earthlink.com...
tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
They didn't last one winter.
jsw
news:54udnbYijO8nikTN...@earthlink.com...
>>>>
>
> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a
> couple of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
>
> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a
> couple of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
They didn't last one winter.
jsw
Jim Wilkins
Dec 25, 2012, 7:29:27 AM12/25/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a2qid8d7jc0l3imt0...@4ax.com...
>
> Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
> stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug
>>
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/Parts#5272671642404646402
> Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
> stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug
>>
The hammered flange and sleeve insert the clamps are holding fit
double-wall Class A pipe, quite nicely. The other half of the wash tub
rests on the anvil. I left the tub rim protruding out to attach
bracing to it later. It was assembled with #5 screws and then
stainless steel pop rivets. It was the lower section of the test
extension.
jsw
Stumpy
Dec 25, 2012, 12:00:38 PM12/25/12
to
>>
>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>
> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
> last one winter.
>
At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>
> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
> last one winter.
>
get of the expensive stuff.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100125106/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+duct&storeId=10051#.UNnbYayLOuI
It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
Dec 25, 2012, 3:08:45 PM12/25/12
to
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:44:31 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
roofs and as the concrete base for a poured upper floor. Not your
usual Raised Rib Roofing stuff that you can make a flashing for.
If you don't want to weld up a Fishmouth Tee and go out the wall, you
can make a sleeve an inch bigger than the vent pipe and a few inches
higher than the roof ridges, then put a rain collar around the
stovepipe to keep it from dripping inside.
As for the one or two totally blocked deck panel channels, the
simplest way would be cut in a 2" bar-sink scupper drain, then run it
out the side wall with some 1-1/2 mild steel tubing.
(I was about to say ABS DWV or PVC, but there's that small problem of
the stove heat... And 1-1/2" Copper is a fortune.)
If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube to
cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.
--<< Bruce >>--
wrote:
>On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:28:45 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:28:45 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>>This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
>>>iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
>>>then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
>>>corregations.
>>>
>>>From 2009
>>>
>>>https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Shop2008#5410169980306390978
>>>
>>>Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
>>>now
>>
>>>iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
>>>then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
>>>corregations.
>>>
>>>From 2009
>>>
>>>https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Shop2008#5410169980306390978
>>>
>>>Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
>>>now
>>
>>Another thought, in passing. How often does it rain in your locale? I
>>lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
>>20 minutes.
>
>We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle
>of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.
>
>So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.
>
>"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
>then.
>
>Gunner
Looks like that galvanized Floor Deck stuff they use on commercial
>>lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
>>20 minutes.
>
>We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle
>of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.
>
>So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.
>
>"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
>then.
>
>Gunner
roofs and as the concrete base for a poured upper floor. Not your
usual Raised Rib Roofing stuff that you can make a flashing for.
If you don't want to weld up a Fishmouth Tee and go out the wall, you
can make a sleeve an inch bigger than the vent pipe and a few inches
higher than the roof ridges, then put a rain collar around the
stovepipe to keep it from dripping inside.
As for the one or two totally blocked deck panel channels, the
simplest way would be cut in a 2" bar-sink scupper drain, then run it
out the side wall with some 1-1/2 mild steel tubing.
(I was about to say ABS DWV or PVC, but there's that small problem of
the stove heat... And 1-1/2" Copper is a fortune.)
If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube to
cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.
--<< Bruce >>--
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
Dec 25, 2012, 3:43:18 PM12/25/12
to
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 01:34:28 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting
at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.
Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the
lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for)
Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner
from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section
elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25
degrees and slice up a pile of segments.
A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support
it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.
Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you
for making cold welds anymore.
Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.
So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the
11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If
the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long
enough to notice the problem.
If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the
Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of
the shop.
And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two
of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent
Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.
Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood -
that's important.
--<< Bruce >>--
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
>wrote:
>>
>wrote:
>>
>>That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
>>like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.
>
>Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
>can order it.
They have knock-down duct in stock at all the Depot's I've ever
>>like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.
>
>Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
>can order it.
visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting
at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.
Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the
lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for)
Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner
from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section
elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25
degrees and slice up a pile of segments.
A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support
it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.
Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you
for making cold welds anymore.
Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.
So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the
11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If
the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long
enough to notice the problem.
If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the
Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of
the shop.
And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two
of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent
Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.
Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood -
that's important.
--<< Bruce >>--
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 5:49:44 PM12/25/12
to
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 5:51:09 PM12/25/12
to
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support
wrote:
to support
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 5:55:26 PM12/25/12
to
Btw..that boring head you built..absolutely MARVELOUS job!!
Bravo!
Gunner
Gunner
Dec 25, 2012, 6:02:40 PM12/25/12
to
corregations. Frankly..Id never thought of that. Sigh...and here I was
thinking Id recovered from the stoke. Very nicely done!
Cant afford the propane or natural gas to heat the shop. PG&E is still
a shitload higher than everybody else in Cali. So Im stuck with
burning scrap.
Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards
Ill see what I can find for thin wall. The output from the stove is
5"..but can I swage down to 4" if I have a good draft? Getting 4"
would be easier than 5-6" around here
Michael A. Terrell
Dec 25, 2012, 7:58:57 PM12/25/12
to
Gunner wrote:
>
> On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
> wrote:
>
> >>>
> >>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
> >>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
> >>
> >> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
> >> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
> >> last one winter.
> >>
> >
> >At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
> >get of the expensive stuff.
> >
> >http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100125106/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+duct&storeId=10051#.UNnbYayLOuI
> >
> >It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.
>
> I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
> to support
John B.
Dec 25, 2012, 9:36:01 PM12/25/12
to
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 14:51:09 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
>wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
>>>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>>>
>>> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
>>> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
>>> last one winter.
>>>
>>
>>At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
>>get of the expensive stuff.
>>
>>http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100125106/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+duct&storeId=10051#.UNnbYayLOuI
>>
>>It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.
>
>I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
>to support
>
I told you before - bailing wire and tar paper nails :-)
--
Cheers,
John B.
wrote:
>On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
>wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
>>>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
>>>
>>> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
>>> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
>>> last one winter.
>>>
>>
>>At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
>>get of the expensive stuff.
>>
>>http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100125106/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+duct&storeId=10051#.UNnbYayLOuI
>>
>>It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.
>
>I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
>to support
>
--
Cheers,
John B.
John B.
Dec 25, 2012, 9:36:40 PM12/25/12
to
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
wrote:
>>>
wrote:
>>>
for the real stuff.
--
Cheers,
John B.
Larry Jaques
Dec 25, 2012, 10:09:29 PM12/25/12
to
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 12:21:22 AM12/26/12
to
Gunner
Jim Wilkins
Dec 26, 2012, 7:34:21 AM12/26/12
to
"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
<bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
>
> If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
> blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube
> to
> cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
> takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
> clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
> If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
> blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube
> to
> cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
> takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
> clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.
jsw
Michael A. Terrell
Dec 26, 2012, 7:43:27 AM12/26/12
to
Gunner wrote:
>
> On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 19:58:57 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >Gunner wrote:
> >>
> >> On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy" <peri...@spamnet.corn>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
> >> >>> of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
> >> >>
> >> >> I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
> >> >> it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
> >> >> last one winter.
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
> >> >get of the expensive stuff.
> >> >
> >> >http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100125106/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+duct&storeId=10051#.UNnbYayLOuI
> >> >
> >> >It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.
> >>
> >> I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
> >> to support
> >
> >
> > And if you got it red hot. Got any 4" conduit? :)
>
> No..I dont. But if I can use it..Ill snag some.
well an 'EZ-ELL' would work in that application? Some of the old
compression couplings & furnace cement would give airtight joints. I
thought you might have some pieces from one of the businesses that have
shut down. I used to pick up alll the used conduit & scraps from a
local electrical contractor. They used a lot of ridgid in factories.
There were times I didn't make it home before someone stopped me &
bought what was in my trailer. :-)
I still have a few 10' pieces of unused 3/4" rigid aluminum conduit
they gave me. I would have had a lot more, but my dad was trying to be
'helpful', and bent the rest up to recycle it. Over $500 worth of new
conduit. :(
Jim Wilkins
Dec 26, 2012, 7:47:18 AM12/26/12
to
"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
<bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
>
<bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
>
> Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
> the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.
The cleanout plug on my chimney was partly galvanized and rain washed
> the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.
down acidic residues that ate it away. Now it's entirely stainless. I
added a handle to help pull it out if it's frozen in place; lighting a
small fire doesn't warm it enough and prevents me from brushing the
flue. I can heat the frozen plug with a torch but then the hot rim
drips with creosote I don't want on gloves. Freezing rain is a big
problem here, if not where Gunner lives.
jsw
Jim Wilkins
Dec 26, 2012, 8:07:58 AM12/26/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:nbbkd8pnjib3el356...@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 07:10:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
>>tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
>>They didn't last one winter.
>>
>>jsw
>>
> Rust or simply rotted away?
>
Wood smoke stings the eyes because it contains vinegar.
> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
>>tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
>>They didn't last one winter.
>>
>>jsw
>>
> Rust or simply rotted away?
>
http://encyclopedia2.thefreedictionary.com/Destructive+Distillation+of+Wood
Once I have the fire burning hot the secondary air in the top of my
Scandinavian-style stove burns all the distillates and the exhaust is
clear and doesn't sting, even if I'm standing beside the top. But I
haven't figured out how to stop the smoke when it's starting up and
the chimney is too cold to create enough draft.
The acid first ate away the upper inside section at the joints,
leaving a ragged lower edge. It thinned the walls unevenly enough
that a few areas began to crumple in when I handled the extension pipe
every few weeks to clean it. My chimney brush is nylon (home-made) and
not abrasive.
jsw
Jim Wilkins
Dec 26, 2012, 8:43:01 AM12/26/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:tdbkd89pe0gklsffu...@4ax.com...
>
> I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit
> interesting
> to support
>
I just miked a spare section of black stovepipe from Lowe's. AFAICT
> I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit
> interesting
> to support
>
it's about 24 gauge or 0.5mm, hard to tell since it's curved and stiff
and burred on the edge. For me it lasts at least 10 years. I suspect
less careful people would leave it in much longer.
I use a 5-blade crimper like this:
http://i2.quinbyhardware.com/6199178.jpg
Better:
http://www.oocities.org/toesheet/CRIMPINGMachines/ToolPics/PSW-CRI-006-2.jpg
Cheaper:
http://heating-and-cooling.hardwarestore.com/96-561-stove-pipe-crimpers/stove-pipe-crimper-198002.aspx
The tees would be easier to copy than the elbows. The tees are
fishmouthed and riveted. I put a tee instead of an elbow where the
riser from the stove turns to go through the wall so I can brush out
that section.
The regulations here require a metal container with a lid for the
ashes. Any glowing coals in the ash generate plenty of carbon
monoxide. I use the ash bucket to test the readout on my CO detector.
jsw
Jim Wilkins
Dec 26, 2012, 8:59:20 AM12/26/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3rbkd8doslauad34t...@4ax.com...
> ...
> Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
> night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with
> ski
> gloves on simply isnt in the cards
>
I've found insulated hunting coveralls much more comfortable when I'm
> night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with
> ski
> gloves on simply isnt in the cards
>
not doing something that could snag their soft, very flexible fabric.
Around here Walmart sells flannel-lined jeans and work pants that are
cozy to lounge around in. I'm comfortable working bare-handed in a 35
degree shop wearing them, an insulated vest over a flannel shirt and a
hat.
jsw
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 9:10:33 AM12/26/12
to
is a once in a decade thing..or even less.
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 10:10:58 AM12/26/12
to
will have a lot...a lot of fog at those temps. Summer tends to be at
100-108ish with a long spring and a long fall in the 50s-80s. Summer
humidity is around 12-25%..winter tends to be in the 80% or higher
range. Right now its 45F and 93% so we will have a bit of fog this
morning.
So between the cool and the humidity in winter..it gets COLD. If it
would drop below freezing..the humidity goes away and it actually
would warm up in "feel"
They say it might snow this year..but I doubt it. We have only had one
snow fall on the mountains (5000') and it didnt stay the entire next
day..was mostly gone by noon.
Ive got some insulated hunting coverals that I occasionally wear out
in the shop, but I love Carrharts and have a number of insulated
pairs. Can find em here in the second hand stores fairly regularly...I
live in the middle of the oil fields..so folks have money to spend on
good clothes and do.
Even have a couple pair of Sorrels..but havent put em on since my last
hunting trip...almost 5 yrs now. Up in the coastal range in Febuary as
I recall. Its 7 am..and its time for bed.
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 10:14:28 AM12/26/12
to
Steve B
Dec 26, 2012, 12:33:00 PM12/26/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote
Looking at your leg scar pic. Sure glad they did mine endoscopically. I
have three one inch scars, one of which is invisible up in my groin area
somewhere. Everyone I talked to said their leg scars took longer to heal
than their heart operation scars. Mebbe if you had the private insurance
operation, you would have smaller scars........... ;-) Also saw your chest
scar. Mine was half as long, and the suture was wound up inside, with just
the nub sticking out the top until it fell off. No staples.
Next time, get the private insurance operation.
Steve
hehe........
Steve B
Dec 26, 2012, 12:34:09 PM12/26/12
to
"Gunner" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602
>
> Some photos of the shop and other things
>
Steve
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 8:11:44 PM12/26/12
to
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 10:33:00 -0700, "Steve B" <ste...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Chuckle..it was done at one of Californias best hospitals.. Loma Linda
The doctors appologized for the job they did..and the 172 staples to
close up their work. They never did tell me what they did wrong..but
they admitted "wrong doing" and dropped the bill. That and the stroke
and how they handled that too.....
As Id mentioned before..I dropped the insurance in November..simply
couldnt afford it any longer with the economy going into the
toilet..and had the heart attack 2 months later in January.
Shrug...mans got do do what a man has to do. If Id sold every scrap,
every tool, every firearm, every toy and put myself out on the
street..I couldnt have come up with the $185k the stroke was billed
at.
So..I didnt.
Now Im like 45 million other Americans and 25 million illegal
aliens....paying what I can, when I can.
Gunner
wrote:
The doctors appologized for the job they did..and the 172 staples to
close up their work. They never did tell me what they did wrong..but
they admitted "wrong doing" and dropped the bill. That and the stroke
and how they handled that too.....
As Id mentioned before..I dropped the insurance in November..simply
couldnt afford it any longer with the economy going into the
toilet..and had the heart attack 2 months later in January.
Shrug...mans got do do what a man has to do. If Id sold every scrap,
every tool, every firearm, every toy and put myself out on the
street..I couldnt have come up with the $185k the stroke was billed
at.
So..I didnt.
Now Im like 45 million other Americans and 25 million illegal
aliens....paying what I can, when I can.
Gunner
Gunner
Dec 26, 2012, 8:15:50 PM12/26/12
to
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 10:34:09 -0700, "Steve B" <ste...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
Ive got a power washer. It needs a motor. Got a nice Hotsey in fact.
Got a case of pretty decent foaming cleaner from O Reilly auto parts.
Works pretty good.
But..most of it is more like thick dust. Dusty here..and the dogs
romping in the shop tend to coat everything with a thick layer of dust
which of course settles on the oil. Wiping it off simply lets stuff
Rust..so I dont wipe off non essential Stuff very often.
I think the last pictures were of 18 months or longer ago. Ill have to
shoot some photos of it as it is today.
Gunner, making note to shoot photos of the current shop
wrote:
>
Got a case of pretty decent foaming cleaner from O Reilly auto parts.
Works pretty good.
But..most of it is more like thick dust. Dusty here..and the dogs
romping in the shop tend to coat everything with a thick layer of dust
which of course settles on the oil. Wiping it off simply lets stuff
Rust..so I dont wipe off non essential Stuff very often.
I think the last pictures were of 18 months or longer ago. Ill have to
shoot some photos of it as it is today.
Gunner, making note to shoot photos of the current shop
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
Dec 31, 2012, 12:33:27 PM12/31/12
to
only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
custom oval flue-pipe.
That's why I suggested elsewhere to use a standard radiant-pipe style
natural gas (or propane) heater and then pop through the roof with 4-O
B-Vent flue. Problem is you can't use B-Vent on a wood stove, it gets
way too hot.
--<< Bruce >>--
Jim Wilkins
Dec 31, 2012, 3:00:17 PM12/31/12
to
"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
<bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
news:7qi3e85sdpssffv2a...@4ax.com...
<bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
> On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
>>flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.
>>
>>jsw
>
> Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
> can
> only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
> custom oval flue-pipe. ...
> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
>>flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.
>>
>>jsw
>
> Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
> can
> only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
> --<< Bruce >>--
The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
fitting.
http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/product/630987/150/150
jsw
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
Jan 2, 2013, 11:29:48 AM1/2/13
to
On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 15:00:17 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
style roof on one side of a Mobilehome. There is no roof ridge
available on a flat roof (only a High and Low side) so that won't do
any good.
It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
more effort (and money) than it's worth.
--<< Bruce >>--
<murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
><bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
>news:7qi3e85sdpssffv2a...@4ax.com...
>> On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
>> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
>>>flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.
>>>
>>>jsw
>>
>> Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
>> can
>> only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
>> custom oval flue-pipe. ...
>> --<< Bruce >>--
>
>The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
>that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
>fitting.
>http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/product/630987/150/150
>jsw
Go back and read the thread again - he's on a flat Lean-To carport
>"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
><bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote in message
>news:7qi3e85sdpssffv2a...@4ax.com...
>> On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
>> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
>>>flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.
>>>
>>>jsw
>>
>> Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
>> can
>> only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
>> custom oval flue-pipe. ...
>> --<< Bruce >>--
>
>The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
>that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
>fitting.
>http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/product/630987/150/150
>jsw
style roof on one side of a Mobilehome. There is no roof ridge
available on a flat roof (only a High and Low side) so that won't do
any good.
It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
more effort (and money) than it's worth.
--<< Bruce >>--
whoyakidding's ghost
Jan 2, 2013, 11:47:10 AM1/2/13
to
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:29:48 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote:
>It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
>on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
>to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
>based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
>more effort (and money) than it's worth.
He says he has a ton of welding equipment and brags on his skills at
readable)" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote:
>It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
>on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
>to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
>based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
>more effort (and money) than it's worth.
using it. So a custom curb should be a piece of cake and cost next to
nothing. But you have to consider the obvious - the stove is currently
backed up against OSB sheeting because anything better is too much
effort to expect from the owner. Therefore there's virtually zero
chance of a custom curb installation or anything like it even if
someone else welded it up and handed it to him for free.
Gunner
Jan 2, 2013, 12:54:55 PM1/2/13
to
that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
Sigh
Gunner
pyotr filipivich
Jan 2, 2013, 1:52:49 PM1/2/13
to
Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com> on Wed, 02 Jan 2013 09:54:55 -0800 typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
cat out the front door, only to have it show up on the deck wanting
in. Turns out it was clambering up the 20 foot post, weaving over an
under the joists, then a "technical climb" over the edge, and viola -
"I'm on the deck and I want in"
The other option is to check the hours on the forklift. That may
explain the high propane usage.
tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
Question for the gun Control advocates, "Do you agree with
this statement?"
"I would rather have a society without guns, even if it
means that people cannot defend themselves against murder
(with other weapons), rape, robbery, and assault. I would
rather make everyone defenseless than have to endure the
mass shootings that occasionally occur. If that means that
many more people, (particularly the old, the weak, and the
infirm) are subjected to these violent crimes, then so be
it. They'll just have to suffer more. I do claim the power
to dictate whether or not others are able to defend themselves."
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>
>
>The low end of the roof is enclosed by a rectangular piece of aluminum
>that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
>length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>
>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
Cue theme from Mission Impossible .. had friends who would let the
>
>The low end of the roof is enclosed by a rectangular piece of aluminum
>that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
>length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>
>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
cat out the front door, only to have it show up on the deck wanting
in. Turns out it was clambering up the 20 foot post, weaving over an
under the joists, then a "technical climb" over the edge, and viola -
"I'm on the deck and I want in"
The other option is to check the hours on the forklift. That may
explain the high propane usage.
tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
Question for the gun Control advocates, "Do you agree with
this statement?"
"I would rather have a society without guns, even if it
means that people cannot defend themselves against murder
(with other weapons), rape, robbery, and assault. I would
rather make everyone defenseless than have to endure the
mass shootings that occasionally occur. If that means that
many more people, (particularly the old, the weak, and the
infirm) are subjected to these violent crimes, then so be
it. They'll just have to suffer more. I do claim the power
to dictate whether or not others are able to defend themselves."
Larry Jaques
Jan 2, 2013, 2:11:22 PM1/2/13
to
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 09:54:55 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:
They could either jump down from the tree in the front yard (near the
swamp cooler), the tree over the motor home behind the shop, or go up
the lattice next to the shop (at the south, IIRC).
There are -very- few places, inside and out, that cats -cannot- get
to. Also, if they've discovered your hiding places for the bread,
jam, and masking tape, all bets are off. They can hover to anywhere in
the world.
--
Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened.
wrote:
swamp cooler), the tree over the motor home behind the shop, or go up
the lattice next to the shop (at the south, IIRC).
There are -very- few places, inside and out, that cats -cannot- get
to. Also, if they've discovered your hiding places for the bread,
jam, and masking tape, all bets are off. They can hover to anywhere in
the world.
--
Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened.
Gunner
Jan 2, 2013, 2:27:34 PM1/2/13
to
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 10:52:49 -0800, pyotr filipivich
<ph...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com> on Wed, 02 Jan 2013 09:54:55 -0800 typed
>in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>
>>
>>The low end of the roof is enclosed by a rectangular piece of aluminum
>>that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
>>length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
>>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>>
>>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
>
> Cue theme from Mission Impossible .. had friends who would let the
>cat out the front door, only to have it show up on the deck wanting
>in. Turns out it was clambering up the 20 foot post, weaving over an
>under the joists, then a "technical climb" over the edge, and viola -
>"I'm on the deck and I want in"
>
> The other option is to check the hours on the forklift. That may
>explain the high propane usage.
Damn! You may have something there!
<ph...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com> on Wed, 02 Jan 2013 09:54:55 -0800 typed
>in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>
>>
>>The low end of the roof is enclosed by a rectangular piece of aluminum
>>that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
>>length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
>>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>>
>>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
>
> Cue theme from Mission Impossible .. had friends who would let the
>cat out the front door, only to have it show up on the deck wanting
>in. Turns out it was clambering up the 20 foot post, weaving over an
>under the joists, then a "technical climb" over the edge, and viola -
>"I'm on the deck and I want in"
>
> The other option is to check the hours on the forklift. That may
>explain the high propane usage.
Gunner, running out to pull the keys
>
>
>tschus
>pyotr
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 2, 2013, 3:55:15 PM1/2/13
to
Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> They could either jump down from the tree in the front yard (near the
> swamp cooler), the tree over the motor home behind the shop, or go up
> the lattice next to the shop (at the south, IIRC).
>
> There are -very- few places, inside and out, that cats -cannot- get
> to. Also, if they've discovered your hiding places for the bread,
> jam, and masking tape, all bets are off. They can hover to anywhere in
> the world.
ground. ;-)
whoyakidding's ghost
Jan 2, 2013, 4:30:28 PM1/2/13
to
>It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>
>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
You don't need to know how they get up there. You need to figure out
>wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
>vines and a cubic buttload of cat shit.
>
>How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.
how cats reproduce so that the volume of cats and their shit can be
limited. Once you've gotten that far it's a simple matter to have a
vet take care of the issue. Well, it would be simple if you were
willing to get a job to pay for it like regular people. Until then
keep pretending that it's a normal part of life to have a roof filled
with cat shit.
grmi...@rogers.com
Jan 2, 2013, 8:53:52 PM1/2/13
to
8" sheet metal (heavier gauge than the deck sheet) cylinder through an
opening in the deck, centerd on a rige of the profile and vertical
(not at right angles to the decking). Re-work the decking such that
water doesn't get trapped uphill from the chimney. Weld the cylinder
to the roof deck with no leaks. Pack the space between the stove pipe
and the cylinder with rock wool or similar insulation and waterproof
the top with a hand fabricated flashing. Extend your stove pipe as
high as neccessary, guy it in place, instal a screened cone rodent
proof cap and enjoy some warmth.
This far above the heater you shold be able to use galvanized ducting
which is available in longer lengths than standard black stove pipe.
---
Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
Gunner
Jan 2, 2013, 10:34:47 PM1/2/13
to
think) but its about .050 in thickness and there really isnt any good
way to get above it to weld on it..and Im not worth a shit at overhead
tig.
If its Aluminium..all bets are off.
But thanks for the interesting suggestions!
Larry Jaques
Jan 3, 2013, 12:26:41 AM1/3/13
to
know to come down in time to replace the bread.
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 3, 2013, 6:03:09 AM1/3/13
to
know the superior attitude most cats have. They don't believe it'll ever
happen to them!
Larry Jaques
Jan 3, 2013, 11:58:28 AM1/3/13
to
On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 06:03:09 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
They're a lot like humans in that aspect, aren't they?
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 3, 2013, 12:34:10 PM1/3/13
to
alseep? :(
Larry Jaques
Jan 3, 2013, 8:36:29 PM1/3/13
to
On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 12:34:10 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
No, but not for a lack of trying. Maybe you knew Cynthia?
Gunner
Jan 3, 2013, 9:23:34 PM1/3/13
to
doing it face down. Then she only clawed the pillows to ragged debris
rather than my back. Ive still got scars 25 yrs later
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 3, 2013, 9:45:15 PM1/3/13
to
pyotr filipivich
Jan 9, 2013, 1:57:29 PM1/9/13
to
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.t...@earthlink.net> on Thu, 03 Jan 2013
12:34:10 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
two sets, and occasionally cold hands or feet!
tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
You've read my sig file, that's enough Social Interaction for the Day.
12:34:10 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 9, 2013, 5:30:59 PM1/9/13
to
pyotr filipivich wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Has a human ever sunk four sets of claws into you while you were
> >alseep? :(
>
> Two sets, and occasionally cold hands or feet!
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Has a human ever sunk four sets of claws into you while you were
> >alseep? :(
>
Did you kick her out of bed?
Larry Jaques
Jan 10, 2013, 1:50:42 AM1/10/13
to
shoulders. Hey, remember the ankle straps over the seatbacks in the
old VW bugs? Time to play "doctor", sweetie.
--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon
Gunner
Jan 10, 2013, 4:02:14 AM1/10/13
to
On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 22:50:42 -0800, Larry Jaques
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:30:59 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
><mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>pyotr filipivich wrote:
>>>
>>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Has a human ever sunk four sets of claws into you while you were
>>> >alseep? :(
>>>
>>> Two sets, and occasionally cold hands or feet!
>>
>> Did you kick her out of bed?
>
>Why? Cold feet don't hurt ya...when they're dangled over your
>shoulders. Hey, remember the ankle straps over the seatbacks in the
>old VW bugs? Time to play "doctor", sweetie.
Been there...done that..repeatedly...Every time I see a Bug...Im told
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:30:59 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
><mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>pyotr filipivich wrote:
>>>
>>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Has a human ever sunk four sets of claws into you while you were
>>> >alseep? :(
>>>
>>> Two sets, and occasionally cold hands or feet!
>>
>> Did you kick her out of bed?
>
>Why? Cold feet don't hurt ya...when they're dangled over your
>shoulders. Hey, remember the ankle straps over the seatbacks in the
>old VW bugs? Time to play "doctor", sweetie.
I get a little misty eyed......sniff.....
Michael A. Terrell
Jan 10, 2013, 6:05:37 AM1/10/13
to
Gunner wrote:
>
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 22:50:42 -0800, Larry Jaques
> <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:30:59 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> ><mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>pyotr filipivich wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > Has a human ever sunk four sets of claws into you while you were
> >>> >alseep? :(
> >>>
> >>> Two sets, and occasionally cold hands or feet!
> >>
> >> Did you kick her out of bed?
> >
> >Why? Cold feet don't hurt ya...when they're dangled over your
> >shoulders. Hey, remember the ankle straps over the seatbacks in the
> >old VW bugs? Time to play "doctor", sweetie.
>
> Been there...done that..repeatedly...Every time I see a Bug...Im told
> I get a little misty eyed......sniff.....
the road when I was 14. It was one of the worst peices of crap I ever
rode in.
My dad had bought it new a few months before, and traded it in on a
'63 Catalina convertible when we got home from that trip.
It is loading more messages.
0 new messages