60F is way warm when you are moving around and climbing up and down.
Couldn't find my taping knife so I bought a new one. Picked out a 8", later I found my
10" where I left it years ago. Oh well, at least I have graduated sizes. Uncle loaned my
his 12" knife but that is way too wide.
I just turned the heat up to 70F and exited the machine room for the night. Hope
everything dries by morning so I can continue on.
Winter this year will be a lot more fun with a place to hang out and make chips.
Wes
YeeeHAw!
--Winston
--
On YouTube, all the tools have volume controls.
>Spent part of today mudding and taping seams in the drywall. I'm getting close to having
>my shop ready for winter metalworking.
>
>60F is way warm when you are moving around and climbing up and down.
Amazing, isn't it? I've been building a deck in 38-43F weather and I
take my windbreaker off to work in short sleeves after ten minutes. I
leave my cap on to keep my ears from freezing, but I stay warm without
sweating too awfully much.
>Couldn't find my taping knife so I bought a new one. Picked out a 8", later I found my
>10" where I left it years ago. Oh well, at least I have graduated sizes. Uncle loaned my
>his 12" knife but that is way too wide.
C'mon. That's for the 3rd and finish coat. I finally picked up a
sanding stick for mud and did a textured wall for a client. She had
done the texturing and I did the sanding and priming, with paint to
come next month, when she gets more funding. Those sticks save a
whole lot of effort, lemme tell ya. It was a manual job, no built-in
dust collector nozzle. Those are triple digit! <thud>
>I just turned the heat up to 70F and exited the machine room for the night. Hope
>everything dries by morning so I can continue on.
Oh, it will be. I never paint the day I mud if I can help it, but
most of my work is thick repairs, not the thinner taping. Use a good
primer and an eggshell _pure_white_ paint for best lighting with no
glare.
>Winter this year will be a lot more fun with a place to hang out and make chips.
Absolutely! As well as it's well insulated from the house noise. ;)
--
We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond
with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:15:55 -0500, the infamous Wes
><clu...@lycos.com> scrawled the following:
>
>>Spent part of today mudding and taping seams in the drywall. I'm getting close to having
>>my shop ready for winter metalworking.
>>
>>60F is way warm when you are moving around and climbing up and down.
>
>Amazing, isn't it? I've been building a deck in 38-43F weather and I
>take my windbreaker off to work in short sleeves after ten minutes. I
>leave my cap on to keep my ears from freezing, but I stay warm without
>sweating too awfully much.
Yup, I've gone cross country skiing wearing little more than what I wear bicycling in the
late fall and I've been nice and toasty. You just don't want to stop until you get back
home or to your car.
>
>
>>Couldn't find my taping knife so I bought a new one. Picked out a 8", later I found my
>>10" where I left it years ago. Oh well, at least I have graduated sizes. Uncle loaned my
>>his 12" knife but that is way too wide.
>
>C'mon. That's for the 3rd and finish coat. I finally picked up a
>sanding stick for mud and did a textured wall for a client. She had
>done the texturing and I did the sanding and priming, with paint to
>come next month, when she gets more funding. Those sticks save a
>whole lot of effort, lemme tell ya. It was a manual job, no built-in
>dust collector nozzle. Those are triple digit! <thud>
This is only my second bit of drywall finishing but I bought that sander on a stick the
first time.
I just figured out why I've kept old blankets. I'll use them to cover the lathe and mill
during the sanding phase.
Guys that finished my brothers house had a thing that looked like a bazooka, they just
held it to a joint and it applied tape down the joint. That was way expensive. It did
inside corners too iirc.
>
>
>>I just turned the heat up to 70F and exited the machine room for the night. Hope
>>everything dries by morning so I can continue on.
>
>Oh, it will be. I never paint the day I mud if I can help it, but
>most of my work is thick repairs, not the thinner taping. Use a good
>primer and an eggshell _pure_white_ paint for best lighting with no
>glare.
I didn't even think about using primer. I just did a quick google and I'll take your
advice.
Eggshell is a surface finish, like semi gloss?
>
>
>Winter this year will be a lot more fun with a place to hang out and make chips.
>
>Absolutely! As well as it's well insulated from the house noise. ;)
If only the insulation would mute the sounds of idiots with their car stereos with the
bass system you can hear a mile away coming and going.
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Hey Wes,
Fans!! Fans are the best way to dry anything.
Brian Lawson.
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:15:55 -0500, the infamous Wes
>><clu...@lycos.com> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>Spent part of today mudding and taping seams in the drywall. I'm getting close to having
>>>my shop ready for winter metalworking.
>>>
>>>60F is way warm when you are moving around and climbing up and down.
>>
>>Amazing, isn't it? I've been building a deck in 38-43F weather and I
>>take my windbreaker off to work in short sleeves after ten minutes. I
>>leave my cap on to keep my ears from freezing, but I stay warm without
>>sweating too awfully much.
>
>Yup, I've gone cross country skiing wearing little more than what I wear bicycling in the
>late fall and I've been nice and toasty. You just don't want to stop until you get back
>home or to your car.
Yes, take a jacket with you, just in case! I always keep mine handy
because when I stop working, I get cold in a real hurry.
>>>Couldn't find my taping knife so I bought a new one. Picked out a 8", later I found my
>>>10" where I left it years ago. Oh well, at least I have graduated sizes. Uncle loaned my
>>>his 12" knife but that is way too wide.
>>
>>C'mon. That's for the 3rd and finish coat. I finally picked up a
>>sanding stick for mud and did a textured wall for a client. She had
>>done the texturing and I did the sanding and priming, with paint to
>>come next month, when she gets more funding. Those sticks save a
>>whole lot of effort, lemme tell ya. It was a manual job, no built-in
>>dust collector nozzle. Those are triple digit! <thud>
>
>This is only my second bit of drywall finishing but I bought that sander on a stick the
>first time.
Good idea. I don't do much, but using fresh sandpaper (in this case,
sanding screen) and a stick really makes the work fly. I got one to
sand my sister's deck after I pressure washed it and that was a real
bear to use. I'll never pressurewash a deck again unless it's nearly
new. Old wood gets really soft in places and the washer, no matter
how careful you are, eats right down through it before you can react.
>I just figured out why I've kept old blankets. I'll use them to cover the lathe and mill
>during the sanding phase.
A couple $4.88 rolls of poly sheeting for that. They're reusable and
you can fold them to trap the dust and decant it prior to shaking out
the "tarps". (That's my only recommendation for poly, BTW. :)
>Guys that finished my brothers house had a thing that looked like a bazooka, they just
>held it to a joint and it applied tape down the joint. That was way expensive. It did
>inside corners too iirc.
Cha CHING!
>>>I just turned the heat up to 70F and exited the machine room for the night. Hope
>>>everything dries by morning so I can continue on.
>>
>>Oh, it will be. I never paint the day I mud if I can help it, but
>>most of my work is thick repairs, not the thinner taping. Use a good
>>primer and an eggshell _pure_white_ paint for best lighting with no
>>glare.
>
>I didn't even think about using primer. I just did a quick google and I'll take your
>advice.
Oh, absolutely. Use two coats and you won't have any flat areas. It
shows up much worse with gloss paint.
>Eggshell is a surface finish, like semi gloss?
Si, sheen. There's flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, in
order of glossiness. Too much gloss creates glare, especially if
direct sunlight is around, but it'll reflect fluorescent bulb glare,
too.
>>Winter this year will be a lot more fun with a place to hang out and make chips.
>>
>>Absolutely! As well as it's well insulated from the house noise. ;)
>
>If only the insulation would mute the sounds of idiots with their car stereos with the
>bass system you can hear a mile away coming and going.
I read somewhere that's what tack strips on fishing reels are for. One
casts it when one hears a boombox coming, lets it pop 'em, and then
one just reels the strip back in. <heh heh heh>
Too bad they're not in season yet, huh?
Yeah, fans and air changes which have no extra moisture in 'em.
>>Hey Wes,
>>
>>Fans!! Fans are the best way to dry anything.
>
>Yeah, fans and air changes which have no extra moisture in 'em.
I can do air changes or heat. Pick one. ;)
Wes
>>I didn't even think about using primer. I just did a quick google and I'll take your
>>advice.
>
>Oh, absolutely. Use two coats and you won't have any flat areas. It
>shows up much worse with gloss paint.
>
>
>>Eggshell is a surface finish, like semi gloss?
>
>Si, sheen. There's flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, in
>order of glossiness. Too much gloss creates glare, especially if
>direct sunlight is around, but it'll reflect fluorescent bulb glare,
>too.
I'll follow your advice on the above. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully Stryped is paying
attention also ;)
Thanks,
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
Use a fan and heat. After half an hour, do an air change and reheat,
complete with fans. That should do it.
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>>I didn't even think about using primer. I just did a quick google and I'll take your
>>>advice.
>>
>>Oh, absolutely. Use two coats and you won't have any flat areas. It
>>shows up much worse with gloss paint.
>>
>>
>>>Eggshell is a surface finish, like semi gloss?
>>
>>Si, sheen. There's flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, in
>>order of glossiness. Too much gloss creates glare, especially if
>>direct sunlight is around, but it'll reflect fluorescent bulb glare,
>>too.
>
>
>I'll follow your advice on the above. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully Stryped is paying
>attention also ;)
Anyone who hasn't plonked that troll is a foo. I also doubt that the
aforementioned idiot is capable of paying attention. Pass it on.
>>I can do air changes or heat. Pick one. ;)
>
>Use a fan and heat. After half an hour, do an air change and reheat,
>complete with fans. That should do it.
I guess I can try it. Don said the thermal constant of the room is pretty high with the
machines in it, recovery time might be pretty quick. Sure wish I had an hygrometer to
measure humidity. It does feel a bit humid in there.
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>>I didn't even think about using primer. I just did a quick google and I'll take your
>>>advice.
>>
>>Oh, absolutely. Use two coats and you won't have any flat areas. It
>>shows up much worse with gloss paint.
>>
>>
>>>Eggshell is a surface finish, like semi gloss?
>>
>>Si, sheen. There's flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, in
>>order of glossiness. Too much gloss creates glare, especially if
>>direct sunlight is around, but it'll reflect fluorescent bulb glare,
>>too.
>
>
>I'll follow your advice on the above. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully Stryped is paying
>attention also ;)
>
He's busy pulling wire.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>>I can do air changes or heat. Pick one. ;)
>>
>>Use a fan and heat. After half an hour, do an air change and reheat,
>>complete with fans. That should do it.
>
>I guess I can try it. Don said the thermal constant of the room is pretty high with the
>machines in it, recovery time might be pretty quick. Sure wish I had an hygrometer to
>measure humidity. It does feel a bit humid in there.
>
>Wes
Leave the heat on and two windows cracked - one low, one high. That
should drive out the moisture.
And you HAVE to prime new drywall, or it'll just keep soaking up
gallons of paint with no finish to show for it. One good coat of PVA
primer locks to the finish paper surface and the topping compound, and
seals the surface. Once sealed, one heavy coat of paint might be
enough - but two medium coats are better.
--<< Bruce >>--
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>>I can do air changes or heat. Pick one. ;)
>>
>>Use a fan and heat. After half an hour, do an air change and reheat,
>>complete with fans. That should do it.
>
>I guess I can try it. Don said the thermal constant of the room is pretty high with the
>machines in it, recovery time might be pretty quick. Sure wish I had an hygrometer to
>measure humidity. It does feel a bit humid in there.
>
>Wes
Go to the box store and get a dehumidifier, if they are regularly sold in your
neck of the woods. Drys the air out, doesn't result in heating up the entire
state and blows the air around enough to keep it moving. Use a heat-pump type,
not the idiot thermal absorption types.
Mark Rand
RTFM
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96417>
Thermo-Hygrometer with Clock
96417-0VGA
$8.99
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary!
><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96417>
>
>Thermo-Hygrometer with Clock
>96417-0VGA
>$8.99
Next order I make it will be on it.
Thanks,
You're welcome. :)