Endless lathe chips (re-adjusted the clutch on a Clausing 6913 lathe)

[Ignoramus12664]

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ignoramus12664 <ignoram...@NOSPAM.12664.invalid> fired this volley in
news:I4GdnW-ta7OLsAXM...@giganews.com:

> How can I ensure
> that this chip breaks?
>

Use a cutter with a chipbreaker groove. "Stringy" chips ARE dangerous,
and pretty easily avoided.

They're not only dangerous when flying around the chuck, but also to the
operator who has to clean up afterwards.

Lloyd

[Gunner Asch]

1. Buy inserts with a built in "chip breaker"

2. Buy tool holders with an external chip breaker.

<http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CFUQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kennametal.com%2Fcontent%2Fdam%2Fkennametal%2Fkennametal%2Fcommon%2FResources%2FTechnical%2520Tips%2FTurning%2FTechTip_138_Choosing_correct_chipbreaker.pdf>

http://www.toolingu.com/definition-200260-13256-chipbreaker.html

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/easy-hss-chip-breaker-219269/

etc etc

With the proper grind/chip breaker..your chips will come off the
cutter in the shape of the # 9

And yes indeed...while pretty..they are unsafe as hell. Depending on
the thickness and the metals...they can pull you into your lathe and
sever limbs/fingers etc etc

Gunner


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
RaidŽ to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ignoramus12664" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.12664.invalid> wrote in message
news:I4GdnW-ta7OLsAXM...@giganews.com...

Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow depths
of cut.

Harold

[pyotr filipivich]

Ignoramus12664 <ignoram...@NOSPAM.12664.invalid> on Sat, 18 May
2013 20:38:30 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Get a chip breaker - it either is a configuration "built" into the
index, or is an additional "fiddly bit" on plain inserts.

Long "chips" are bad news. Even if they don't snag you - well,
the rule for getting them out of the way is "don't!" Use pliers or a
tool - dat stuff will cut gloves real fast, too.
While it is true that if you have found one end of such a chip,
there is ha high probability that there is another end; otoh, there is
no promise that you can pull it loose unless you can actually _see_
the other end.
Of course, that assumes that you are not grabbing it while the
machine is turning.

tschus
pyotr


OT3H, have friends who claimed they got everything so dialed in, the
chip went up, over and into a bin. No clean up needed.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

[RogerN]

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
news:I4GdnW-ta7OLsAXM...@giganews.com...

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN

[John B.]

Err... Iggy, you need to read up on "Chip Breakers" as applied to
lathe tools.

But I confess that the first time I did any extensive stainless
turning I did the same thing - ran off a 12 ft., light brown, chip
before I could get at the Big Red Button :-)
An old boy named Smith wandered over and commented, "Looks as though
you might need to grind a chip breaker on that tool", and than showed
me how to grind one :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

[Ed Huntress]

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

[PrecisionmachinisT]

"Ignoramus12664" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.12664.invalid> wrote in message
news:I4GdnW-ta7OLsAXM...@giganews.com...

Buy a fucking clue.

[Ignoramus17710]

Just low carbon steel in this instance.

i

[Ignoramus17710]

OK, I will try that, but I did not want to puch my lathe too hard.

i

[Ed Huntress]

Aggressive feed and good chip breakers should do it. If not, that's
life. <g>

Low carbon steel should break from compression failure (you'd need a
video to see it). But you need enough feed to "crumple" the chip in
compression. You'll recognize it when you see it.

--
Ed Huntress

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in
news:1a4ip8p6f14jne1ou...@4ax.com:

> But you need enough feed to "crumple" the chip in
> compression. You'll recognize it when you see it.
>

Ig,
I might add after your last comment about "not pushing your lathe too
hard", that they're designed for that. Don't baby it, or you'll just
wear out tooling and patience prematurely. Time (your time and your
employees') is money.

There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

Lloyd

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> fired this volley in
news:XnsA1C58E38BDF3Dll...@216.168.3.70:

> There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

But I might also add, that ties in with your question about coolant.
You want the chips hot, but not the body of the work.

Lloyd

[Karl Townsend]

On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN" <re...@midwest.net>
wrote:

I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl

[Ignoramus17710]

i hate to admit to the same thing

[Gunner Asch]

Very well said!!

[Gunner Asch]

I use a bit of rod with an L bent into one end..and a 18" length.
Takes longer to pull me into the work.

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.

Raid® to a cockroach.

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <B9Kdnc2F-u-fhQTM...@giganews.com>,

I use a thin sheet metal chip hook that's made for the purpose. It has
been snatched from my hand, but doesn't weigh much.

I got it from Enco or MSC, and it's marked "Waco Products" on the
plastic handle. The blade is a flat blue spring steel strip with a
hook punched in one end.

Joe Gwinn

[Ignoramus17710]

Lloyd, I am happy now, that I can make thick blue chips that are also
very consistent. And I agree with you in general, as long as the motor
keeps up the RPM (which I can simply hear), it should be fine.

i

[Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)]

On Sun, 19 May 2013 12:14:53 -0500, Ignoramus17710
<ignoram...@NOSPAM.17710.invalid> wrote:

>
>OK, I will try that, but I did not want to puch my lathe too hard.

Unless you stall the motor, slip the belts, get the tool chattering
(and wreck the finish) or start breaking tooling, you can never Puch
your lathe too hard. Would I Steyr you wrong?

Unless you just don't give a Daimler... ;-P

--<< Bruce >>--

[Tom Gardner]

I just "pulse" the feed engagement handle every few seconds and produce
nice 10" long "springs". The "springs" are easy to handle and sometimes
stack up nicely in a bundle.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Tom Gardner <Mars@Tacks> fired this volley in
news:u8KdnR0EHqZa6QfM...@giganews.com:

> I just "pulse" the feed engagement handle every few seconds and produce
> nice 10" long "springs". The "springs" are easy to handle and
sometimes
> stack up nicely in a bundle.

Hmmmm... My first reaction to that was that it would create lousy surface
finish... but then I realized these are roughing cuts! <blush>

Good idea, Tom.

I have a bunch of those foot-long springs of 6011 in the recycle bin.
(only, they broke apart on their own).


Lloyd

[et...@whidbey.com]

That was a funny post. I like it when I can Saab with laughter. You
must be the Scion of a comedian. I hope I don't have to Dodge any
tomatoes from my bad puns. I better pull up my Sachs and put on my
shoes and run. Even better, I can Triumph by jumping on my Mustang to
get away.
Earache

[John]

If you run a lathe you should have a chip hook, a long steel rod with
short 90 deg. bend on the end and a handle like a file handle on the other.

John

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:k1ohp899ptlvhuadf...@4ax.com...

I've never failed to break mild steel chips. Throw feed at it until it
breaks---and it will. Bear in mind, I'm speaking of operating industrially
rated equipment, where power isn't an issue. Home type machines often lack
power, rigidity and the speed required (carbide).

Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
moving.

I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.

Harold

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:k1ohp899ptlvhuadf...@4ax.com...

I've never failed to break mild steel chips (speaking of roughing---all bets
are off for finish cuts). Increase feed rate until it breaks, If it fails
to do so and you run out of power, decrease the width of the chip breaker,
or increase the depth---anything to cause the chip to curl tighter. Avoid
an abrupt inner corner at the exit, however, so chips can't stack up.

When roughing, mild steel breaks perfectly well when conditions are right.

Harold

[Ed Huntress]

On Tue, 21 May 2013 04:49:33 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"

My little belt-driven SB10L, which is a more typical hobbyist's
machine, doesn't like that kind of treatment. So I fiddle with
grinding chipbreakers into my HSS tools until I get the best results I
can.

Sometimes, machining some hot-rolled crap (which I try to avoid),
ain't nuthin' that's going to break them, even pushing the feedrate to
the machine's limits.

I have a really good bird's-nest hook. <g>

>
>Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
>machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
>303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
>No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
>moving.
>
>I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
>for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.

I have some cool-looking ones. d8-)

I'm sure that experienced commercial machinists would look at my
setups and could give me a solution, but it's not much of a problem
for me, anyway, because I don't often machine the materials that give
that trouble.

Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

--
Ed Huntress

>
>Harold

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:nv0np8tot1qkljbk4...@4ax.com...
snip----

>
> Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
> my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
> decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
> make a clean scarf with no problem.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress

Sorry, no. I have nothing to offer. I've never been faced with that
problem, and have not been around the flat belt machines. Virtually all of
my experience has come in industry, where such machines were not found.

The only SB that I ever experienced was a 17" Turnado (geared head), which I
found to be borderline junk. It couldn't stand up to the rigors of the
production shop. Not trying to be rude, just reporting what I
experienced. There's a huge number of satisfied SB owners, I know.

Luck with the belt.

With those sticky materials that don't break well with HSS, a narrower and
deeper breaker can be the solution, but it's not easy hitting the perfect
balance, as a narrow breaker tends to trap the chip. I have a lot of
experience with HSS----I used it alongside brazed carbide and insert tooling
up to the day I closed the doors on my commercial (non CNC) shop. The
real negative is that it's not easy sharpening once installed in a setup,
unlike insert carbide. Registration is lost when the tool is removed for
sharpening. For CNC operations, it most likely wouldn't serve well at all,
but for the guy running manual machines, it really is a great solution to
machining. That, of course, depends on one's ability to fashion tools with
the correct geometry.

Harold

[Ed Huntress]

I have a lot of old brazed carbide tools, but sharpening them is a
problem and I rarely waste my time with them. I use carbide mostly for
turning fiberglass and other abrasive materials. When I'm building
fishing rods and making ferrules, I cut enough of it that HSS just
doesn't keep an edge.

However, I'll keep the narrow chip breaker in mind. And I'll keep
looking for a good glue for the belt.

Thanks, Harold.

--
Ed Huntress

[John B. slocomb]

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:


>
>Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
>my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
>decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
>make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.
--
Cheers,

John B.

[Brian Lawson]

Hey Ed,

How is Jim doing? His name gets in my thoughts every so often 'cause
I miss him here. Good guy. I know why he isn't here, and that is
really too bad for us.

Please say "Hi !!!" from me.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario (Used to be Windsor, Ontario when Jim was still
here)

[Ed Huntress]

I haven't been in touch with him for a long while, Brian, but I must
do so. I'm making a note now to say hi from you when I do.

Last I heard, he was doing great.

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
<johnbs...@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
><hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
>>my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
>>decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
>>make a clean scarf with no problem.
>
>Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?
>
>Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
>leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
>Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.

>
>We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
>staples for most machines though.

Dobie Dave has one of those staplers that he'll let me use, but it's
'way too wide for my belt. The one on the lathe now is stapled. But I
figured I'd just glue it.

--
Ed Huntress

[RogerN]

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
news:g14op8punu18ldujd...@4ax.com...

>>On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
><johnbs...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
>><hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
>>>my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
>>>decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
>>>make a clean scarf with no problem.
>>
>>Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?
>>
>>Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
>>leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
>>Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.
>
>Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.

I wonder how that polyurethane gorilla glue, or similar, would work?

<snip>
--
Ed Huntress

[Tom Gardner]

I really hate to wrestle that 3' Brillo pad out of the chip tray!

[DoN. Nichols]

And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[Ed Huntress]

On Tue, 21 May 2013 19:49:50 -0500, "RogerN" <re...@midwest.net>
wrote:

I use that stuff for a variety of things, including gluing my son's
soccer shoes back together, and it's true that it's somewhat flexible
and has great adhesion.

I just don't think it's flexible *enough*. Something like Pliobond or
Shoe Goo would be more flexible. But I don't know if they have enough
sheer strength.

I'll probably wind up calling some adhesives expert. Cripes, I used to
write long articles about adhesive assembly, but the adhesives I know
about are almost as old as hide glue.

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

On 22 May 2013 03:17:53 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com>
wrote:

>On 2013-05-21, John B slocomb <johnbs...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
>><hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
>>>my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
>>>decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
>>>make a clean scarf with no problem.
>>
>> Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?
>>
>> Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
>> leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
>> Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.
>>
>> We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
>> staples for most machines though.
>
> And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
>The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
>on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
>Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.
>
> Enjoy,
> DoN.

Yeah, that's my other option. You have to cut relief grooves in the
belt with a woodcarver's gouge, but it looks doable.

Skiving, though, is easier for me. So I'm going to try gluing.

--
Ed Huntress

[Paul K. Dickman]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:jclop8psdkn50v0js...@4ax.com...

The best stuff is called Barge cement. It's alike pliobond, but a lot better
on leather. It is what shoe makers use to attach soles.

That being said, the stuff is hard to find (just like shoemakers) and a
gallon would last me 20 lifetimes.

I have used Gorilla glue on my lathe belt and it is still working fine 10+
years later.
I think that, although the dried glue is fairly rigid, it is able to
fracture into a series of narrow rigid joints that roll around the pulleys
like tank treads

[Ecnerwal]

In article <knied...@news6.newsguy.com>,

"Paul K. Dickman" <pkdi...@ameritech.net> wrote:

>
> The best stuff is called Barge cement. It's alike pliobond, but a lot better
> on leather. It is what shoe makers use to attach soles.

It's also pretty similar to rubber cement, used in the "contact cement"
mode (apply, dry, and stick.) At least 20 year old memories say so.

Either of those is pretty easy to find and might work well enough if you
are not going with metal lacing (which is what I prefer, since it can be
undone.) You may also want to actually lace (the leather version from
which the metal version takes it's name) the joint as well.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

[Leon Fisk]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 01:23:39 -0400
Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:

<snip>

>I'll probably wind up calling some adhesives expert. Cripes, I used to
>write long articles about adhesive assembly, but the adhesives I know
>about are almost as old as hide glue.

I'll second the plug for Barge. They have several products that may
work. See:

http://www.quabaug.com/barge-adhesives.html

link to a brochure:

http://www.quabaug.com/uploads/6/4/8/2/6482595/barge_brochure.pdf

It seems to me that I found some sellers at Amazon. Otherwise try shoe
repair suppliers. You might try talking to them directly. With your
background you might be able to score some samples to evaluate :)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

[Brian Lawson]

Hey Ed,

Up here, I'd look in the Yellow Pages under

"Power Transmission Equipment"

or maybe

"Industrial Supply"

and ask them for what you need.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:9j3op8l5ej3t4eakr...@4ax.com...

Please include me in your greetings for Jim. He's a good guy----with a lot
of wisdom.

Harold

[Ed Huntress]

OK, 'got you on the list.

--
Ed Huntress

[Jim Wilkins]

"Paul K. Dickman" <pkdi...@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:knied...@news6.newsguy.com...

>
>
> I have used Gorilla glue on my lathe belt and it is still working
> fine 10+ years later.
> I think that, although the dried glue is fairly rigid, it is able to
> fracture into a series of narrow rigid joints that roll around the
> pulleys like tank treads

I worked in an industrial leather belt factory after school hours. The
belt splicing glue they used was colorless and smelled of acetone,
like Duco.
jsw

[rangerssuck]

On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:51:34 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:

> OK, 'got you on the list.

Oh no! Now Ed has a list, too? Before ya know it, everyone's gonna have one, and who's gonna keep track of who's on whose list?

[gerald...@yahoo.ca]

Several years ago,I bought a replacement belt for my SB"A" for
something like $9.00. Last year I went to order another but declined
to pay the $175.00 quoted. When I find that round "TUIT" that SWMBO
gave me, I will pull the spindle and instal the serpentine belt I
picked up for $1.00 at the re-store.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

[Gunner Asch]

Same here!

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

[Ed Huntress]

But this is a goooood list. Like a Christmas list.

--
Ed Huntress

[F. George McDuffee]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 20:44:19 -0400, gerald...@yahoo.ca
wrote:

---------

>Several years ago,I bought a replacement belt for my SB"A" for
>something like $9.00. Last year I went to order another but declined
>to pay the $175.00 quoted. When I find that round "TUIT" that SWMBO
>gave me, I will pull the spindle and instal the serpentine belt I
>picked up for $1.00 at the re-store.

----------

would any of these work?

http://www.fennerdrives.com/product-lines/hpc-v-belts/?_kk=6e6f872d-9be9-42cf-85f4-7c527c403dab&_kt=12860121241&gclid=COGsm9GRq7cCFZFr7Aod_wkAnw

http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html



also see
http://shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18326
<snip>
For the most part, likely the easiest and best way, go to a
farm supply store, and you'll need two things. Clips for
flat belting is often called alligator lacing, and it is
used on the belting for round balers. There are two types, a
'hammer lock' that simply requires a hammer and flat
surface, and a second, that requires a jig to close.

For belting, a lot of guys are using the rubber belts from
round balers. Most of these are anywhere from 4-8" wide, but
can be cut with a sharp knife, straight edge, and spray it
with some WD-40 so the blade slides through easier. I know
the local TSC sells the belting by the foot, so if you
figure the length you need, and can buy it just that length,
you'll have enough for several belts.....easily enough to
last you!!
<snip>
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/replacement-baler-belting-10-in-belt-lacing
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/replacement-baler-belting-4-in-belt-lacing




















--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

[Ed Huntress]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 18:14:06 -0700, Gunner Asch <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Ok, you're on the list. If some guy named Nunzio shows up at your door
some night, it just means I put you on the wrong list...

--
Ed Huntress

[Harold & Susan Vordos]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:410rp8l5enp2n5o2r...@4ax.com...

Chuckle!

Double check! Gunner's a good guy, too, in spite of his detractors.

Harold

[Gunner Asch]

On Thu, 23 May 2013 04:49:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"

Tell Nunzio to wear a trauma plate. I reload and I have a machine
shop. Its interesting what sort of rounds one can make up when one
has time on his hands.

Though I do tend to shoot for the head on B70 targets

[gerald...@yahoo.ca]

Thanks, I'll give TSC a try
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

[DoN. Nichols]

On 2013-05-22, Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
> On 22 May 2013 03:17:53 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com>
> wrote:
>
>>On 2013-05-21, John B slocomb <johnbs...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
>>><hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
>>>>my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
>>>>decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
>>>>make a clean scarf with no problem.
>>>
>>> Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

[ ... ]

>> And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
>>The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
>>on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
>>Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.

[ ... ]

> Yeah, that's my other option. You have to cut relief grooves in the
> belt with a woodcarver's gouge, but it looks doable.

I did it for a 1" belt (and not much power through it -- a small
benchtop machine) using gimp -- the fabric core plastic lacing. It is
flat enough so you do not need grooves. You might need more parallel
laces, depending on the torque to be transmitted.

> Skiving, though, is easier for me. So I'm going to try gluing.

O.K. Good Luck with it. (Probably already done, I've been busy
the past few days. :-)