Cutting oil v. thread cutting oil - difference?
Tom Quackenbush
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
I'll be using it for cutting or drillling iron/steel.
What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?
R,
Tom Q.l
W. Stief
Seems to be the good stuff:
Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name HYDROCARBON OILS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name SULFUR COMPOUNDS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Michael Koblic
acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
bigger).
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
"Tom Quackenbush" <tqu...@boguskingcon.com> wrote in message
news:pfgt64leml7r2n275...@4ax.com...
Brian Lawson
Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
watch out.
One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.
Take care.
Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Jim Wilkins
It seems to be a little better than Crown cutting oil from MSC but not
nearly as good as the fancy tapping fluids.
Michael Koblic
"Brian Lawson" <law...@ciaccess.com> wrote in message
news:83ru64h802aui6mvl...@4ax.com...
> Hey Michael,
>
> Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
> desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
> watch out.
>
> One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
> Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
> else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.
>
Would that explain the visions I have been having lately?
Tom Gardner
>
> Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
> desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
> watch out.
>
> One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
> Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
> else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.
>
> Take care.
>
> Brian Lawson,
> Bothwell, Ontario.
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
If you're not smokin', you're doing it wrong! It's the color of the smoke that
counts.
Jim Wilkins
> "Brian Lawson" <laws...@ciaccess.com> wrote in message
Same problem with the smoke though!.
> Would that explain the visions I have been having lately?
Wash off your safety glasses???
sta...@prolynx.com
The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
steels, like guns.
Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
vigorously.
Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
it's biodegradeable.
Stan
Robert Swinney
in the past. I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for comparison. The
black stuff works pretty well on threading. Don't ask me if I think it is worth the mess.
Bob (don't say Crisco or bacon fat) Swinney
"Tom Quackenbush" <tqu...@boguskingcon.com> wrote in message
news:pfgt64leml7r2n275...@4ax.com...
R,
Tom Q.l
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Robert Swinney
Jim Wilkins
> ...I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for comparison.
Grocery store, ethnic food shelves.
Tom Quackenbush
>Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>> My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
>> Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
>> cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
<snip>
>Seems to be the good stuff:
>
> Ingredient # 01
> Ingredient Name HYDROCARBON OILS
> CAS Number 1003
> Proprietary NO
> Percent 0
> Ingredient # 02
> Ingredient Name SULFUR COMPOUNDS
> CAS Number 1003
> Proprietary NO
> Percent 0
> Ingredient # 03
> Ingredient Name CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
> CAS Number 1003
> Proprietary NO
> Percent 0
Thanks for finding that, that makes me feel better about buying it.
R,
Tom Q.
Tom Quackenbush
>FWIW (I have no qualifications to speak of except enthusiasm and experience
>acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
>drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
>bigger).
Thanks, Michael, I'll keep an eye out for it.
You've probably got me beat in the enthusiasm department, but I'll
bet that my string of failures would compare pretty favorably (?) with
those of anyone here. <g>
R,
Tom Q.
Tom Quackenbush
> Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>> My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
>> Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
>> cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
>
>It seems to be a little better than Crown cutting oil from MSC but not
>nearly as good as the fancy tapping fluids.
Thanks, Jim. Sounsds like it's good enough for the likes of me. I'll
keep an eye peeled for the fancy stuff, though.
R,
Tom Q.
Tom Quackenbush
>The heavy black sulfurized stuff is hightly recommended as a replacement for the oil lard oil used
>in the past. I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for comparison. The
>black stuff works pretty well on threading. Don't ask me if I think it is worth the mess.
<snip>
Thanks, Robert. When I was shopping, I vaguely remembered that
sulphur was good, but I didn't know why.
I sometimes have solid lard on hand. Ddo you know how that compares
with lard oil? I do know how to turn solid lard liquid. <g>
R,
Tom Q.
Tom Quackenbush
>The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
>iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
>for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
>Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
>When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
>appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
>steels, like guns.
>
>Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
>same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
>steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
>vigorously.
>
>Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
>store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
>it's biodegradeable.
Thanks, Stan. It sounds like what I've got should be fine for the
use I'll put it to.
Screw the other inhabitants. <g> There's plenty for the cat & dog to
do outdoors.
I generally use kerosene (sometimes mineral spirits or WD-40) for
aluminum anyway, but I appreciate the warning.
R,
Tom Q.