Prime/painting tips for interior metalwork

[Jim T]

Making some interior scroollwork projects out of
mild hot-rolled flat stock.

The stock is coated in a mixture of oil of and what
appears to be black flakey/powdery mill reisdue?

My strategy to get to a final finish is
#1) Sandblast (does it matter sand or glass?)
#2)Wipe down with (acetone/kerosene/thinner/mineral spirits?)
#3) Prime with a gravity fed HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
#4) Paint with a flat black (enamel??)

Any brands of paint that you rec for prime/paint?

cheers, Jim

[Randy Zimmerman]

If you are blasting then you don't need to wipe down with a solvent.
Handle the blasted pieces as lttle as possible with bare hands since there
is oil on you hands.
The best way is to paint within half an hour after blasting.
I like the Tremclad line but most anything will work for interior use.

Jim T wrote in message <398B7AE3...@aol.com>...

[Ned Simmons]

I've had good luck with Rustoleum 5200 water based acrylic. The steel
stair stringers on the outside of my shop, about 125 feet from salt
water, look like new after about 5 years.

It's a bit disconcerting when rust bleeds thru the prime coat, but the
finish coat covers the rust spots. You do want to sand blast to remove
all mill scale and take care to keep the steel clean til you paint.

Grainger sells the stuff.

Ned Simmons

In article <398B7AE3...@aol.com>, green...@aol.com says...

> Making some interior scroollwork projects out of
> mild hot-rolled flat stock.
>
> The stock is coated in a mixture of oil of and what
> appears to be black flakey/powdery mill reisdue?
>
> My strategy to get to a final finish is
> #1) Sandblast (does it matter sand or glass?)
> #2)Wipe down with (acetone/kerosene/thinner/mineral spirits?)
> #3) Prime with a gravity fed HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
> #4) Paint with a flat black (enamel??)
>

[dou...@my-deja.com]

One of my blacksmith friends uses Johnson's paste wax applied to the
metal after it's been slightly heated with a torch. That gives a very
nice patina to the work. This is a much richer finish than flat paint
and is durable enough for interior use.
His work is a litle different from yours in that all his surfaces have
been hammered or forged to create a handwrought finish on the metal.
But, this can be simulated to an extent by power wire brushing to
remove the mill scale and soften your cut ends.

Jim T <green...@aol.com> wrote:
> Making some interior scroollwork projects out of
> mild hot-rolled flat stock.
>
> The stock is coated in a mixture of oil of and what
> appears to be black flakey/powdery mill reisdue?
>
> My strategy to get to a final finish is
> #1) Sandblast (does it matter sand or glass?)
> #2)Wipe down with (acetone/kerosene/thinner/mineral spirits?)
> #3) Prime with a gravity fed HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
> #4) Paint with a flat black (enamel??)
>
> Any brands of paint that you rec for prime/paint?
>
> cheers, Jim
>
>

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[Cathy Morgan]

I've found that a warm oil or wax finish doesn't work nearly
as well on iron that hasn't been forged. Neither color nor
durability seem as good. Also, even on forged iron, a wax,
oil, or oil-wax finish isn't as durable as one might hope -
at least, in a humid climate. It works fine if the piece is
kept in a dry, temperature-controlled home, and if the
customer takes good care of it (no spills on it, etc.) One
solution might be to price work so high that only people who
have such homes could afford to buy it. Otherwise - in a
humid climate, the finish needs some regular upkeep - more
oil, wax, etc. every few months.

dou...@my-deja.com wrote in message
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