I'm Building a new machine shop in my basement. any website on Machine Shop Layout
Henny
Clark Magnuson
I cut out the paper dolls of the machines I have.
I then made bigger cutouts with the work area for each machine.
When laying out the dolls on a scale map of the shop, the work areas can
over lap.
The only way I was able to get it all to fit, was to move my wood
storage somewhere else. The other thing I had to do was get wheels under
all the woodworking equipment. The must roll outside for 16 feet of
infeed and 16 feet of outfeed. That made the parked area much smaller as
there is no extra space for the length of the wood work.
The lathe and vertical mill are susceptible to saw dust. They may have
to be separated by a sheet. Kind of like the traveling salesman and the
farmer's daughter.
The book "Pistol Gunsmithing" by Sweeny has a number of tips on setting
up a shop. Don't put anything on the shelves above the benches that you
wouldn't want to see dropped on the bench.
Grant Erwin
had 3 of now.
First, when you get a lathe, I think the most usable way to position it is
straight out from a wall rather than up against a wall. The tailstock end
should be nearest the wall, but just far away so you can remove the tailstock
without moving the whole lathe. That way gives you clear access to the front
and the back of the lathe and also the headstock.
Second, in a home shop, one of those fold-up-to-make-small-footprint 2 ton
engine hoist (available all the time for $199 in my area at G.I. Joe's) is
a very handy tool for moving heavy stuff. Another great tool for moving
things just a little is one of those import 4-ton hydraulic cylinder kits -
those can skid around a Bridgeport mill like nothing, or pick up the
front or back an inch if you need that too.
Third, plan to get at least 2, preferably 4, sheet metal boxes full of
drawers, at least 24 drawers per box. These boxes should be at least 12"
deep. Get a labeler or these boxes will be useless. Don't worry about
organizing the boxes. When you find something you don't really have a
place for (hmm, where do I keep the staple gun and all its staples? How
about my miscellaneous electrical fittings? Where should I keep my pipe
wrenches? ..) just put it away in a drawer and immediately label the
drawer. You can rearrange by removing and replacing drawers later. This
single thing decluttered my shop more than any other, which is no minor
statement.
Much of the rest will be dictated by physical constraints, like how you
plan to move long pieces around, what your wiring is like, and even what
you plan to do in your shop.
Oh, and make sure you have a shop sink around, and get as good a parts
washer as you can afford. I cannot any longer imagine life without both.
Good luck.
Grant Erwin
jim rozen
>First, when you get a lathe, I think the most usable way to position it is
>straight out from a wall rather than up against a wall. The tailstock end
>should be nearest the wall, but just far away so you can remove the tailstock
>without moving the whole lathe. That way gives you clear access to the front
>and the back of the lathe and also the headstock.
Very true. This caused considerable consterantation for
me, because I dearly wanted to set up my machines so they
would face each other, to allow the center aisle to serve
for both - so they could be closer together, and free
up room on the sides. But in the end, I chose to
have two aisles, and have the machines both face 'the
same way,' where the tailstock side is nearest the wall.
<http://www.metalworking.com/RCM-gallery/files/Rozen,Jim/Nshop1.jpg>
<http://www.metalworking.com/RCM-gallery/files/Rozen,Jim/Nshop1.jpg>
I really could have used the extra space that the second
aisle took up, but I just know whichever machine I put
in backwards, would be the one that I would need to
turn something long, stuck thru the headstock.
I drafted up about 20 different configurations, some of
which had the machines at an angle to the wall, to try to
maximize free space. But in the end, the way you suggest
seemed to work out the best. 90 deg to the wall, headstock
at the free end.
Jim
===================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at watson dot ibm dot com
===================================
jim rozen
>In article <3C6259FB...@tinyisland.com>, Grant says...
>
>>First, when you get a lathe, I think the most usable way to position it is
>>straight out from a wall rather than up against a wall. The tailstock end
>>should be nearest the wall, but just far away so you can remove the tailstock
>>without moving the whole lathe. That way gives you clear access to the front
>>and the back of the lathe and also the headstock.
>
>Very true. This caused considerable consterantation for
>me, because I dearly wanted to set up my machines so they
>would face each other, to allow the center aisle to serve
>for both - so they could be closer together, and free
>up room on the sides. But in the end, I chose to
>have two aisles, and have the machines both face 'the
>same way,' where the tailstock side is nearest the wall.
>
><http://www.metalworking.com/RCM-gallery/files/Rozen,Jim/Nshop1.jpg>
(whoops, minor correction there...)
Mike Graham
wrote:
>I really could have used the extra space that the second
>aisle took up, but I just know whichever machine I put
>in backwards, would be the one that I would need to
>turn something long, stuck thru the headstock.
Depending on the setup of your shop, can you add a port to the wall
so that you can send long stock through it when required? Works
beauty when it works. Not so good if your shop is in the basement...
8-)
--
Mike Graham | Steel-fitter and CWB-certified weldor
mike at metalmangler dot com | Raiser of horses
<http://www.metalmangler.com> | Mangler of metal
Joe Way
<mi...@metalmangler.com> wrote:
>On 7 Feb 2002 09:53:23 -0800, jim rozen <jim_m...@newsguy.com>
>wrote:
>
>>I really could have used the extra space that the second
>>aisle took up, but I just know whichever machine I put
>>in backwards, would be the one that I would need to
>>turn something long, stuck thru the headstock.
>
> Depending on the setup of your shop, can you add a port to the wall
>so that you can send long stock through it when required? Works
>beauty when it works. Not so good if your shop is in the basement...
>8-)
==============
I put one of my lathes opposite the restroom door for this very
reason...about 5 1/2 ft with the door closed, another 3 ft with it
open. Don't need the extra often, but it has happened.
The big lathe is located so that the spindle points midway between two
studs on the outside wall. If I ever *really* need to, I'll install a
port as Mike describes.
Joe
--
Heather & Joe Way
Sierra Specialty Automotive
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