garage floor paint
V8TR4
I'm preparing to paint the floor of my new shop. Went to home depot in a
sleep deprived stupor (too many 36 hour days) tonight and picked up some
porch and floor paint by Glidden in "Steel Gray". After getting home I
realized I have no idea what Glidden might consider steel grey. Is it a
light or dark gray? I searched around Glidden site and even other paint
sites with no real patch of color to judge by. I am hoping it is not dark
gray, because then it means another trip to home depot and then stand in
refund line and then back to purchase line.
How does this stuff hold up in a shop with no cars? Just a few heavy
machines and me.
Thanks
Oliver
Harold & Susan Vordos
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
news:NUQJb.808$lE.8...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
successfully. I'd suggest you give very careful consideration to the idea
of using an epoxy paint, which will likely provide the best possible
surface. Making the decision before you paint is important, for once you
have applied any type of paint to your floor, you won't be able to apply
epoxy when you find you're unhappy with what you've done otherwise.
There are drawbacks to painting any shop floor. If you do any welding,
they will show burn spots anywhere slag drops, generally a chocolate colored
spot. They also have the negative quality of being slippery when wet,
although if you add sand to the paint that is not an issue. I've applied
epoxy paint to several floors, both with and without the sand. I was
pleased with the results in all cases, but not very happy with the
discoloration from hot objects. In order to get around that in my new
shop, I dyed the concrete a light gray color when it was poured, which has
turned out to be a great idea so far. It won't burn, and doesn't look like
typical concrete.
You may wish to talk to a paint expert before making up your mind. I would
also recommend you look at color charts instead of assuming a color. Try to
keep the color on the lighter side so you don't have a lot of trouble
lighting the shop. Dark colors absorb a great deal of the light.
Harold
Asp3211968
a light color epoxy paint is the way to go. do prep your floor with a diluted
muratic acid wash so you have maximum bondage and also clean you floor with tsp
which i got at home depot in the paint section. do not ask for help at home
depot atleast the 3 i went to they said they did not carry tsp and one was
sitting on the paint counter for restocking.
John D. Farr
cleaner for preping the floor. Are you going beyond that? thanks, John
"Asp3211968" <asp32...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040104065943...@mb-m29.aol.com...
SRF
Floor paint (2 part epoxy) that Home Depot sells. Per the instructions, I
waited 45 days (label said "at least 30") and until the evening when the
temp dropped into the high 80s, (label said "xx to 90 degree range").
Anyway, I don't know if there was still too much moisture in the 6" slab
since I was extremely careful about keeping it wet while curing or if the
temperature was too hot (the cans were almost too hot to pick up after
mixing) but all the paint is cracking and starting to flake off. Let's just
say I ain't real happy about it right now. I figure sometime this spring I
will take an air scaler or something and remove all the paint (1100 sq ft)
and try something else.
Good luck.
Steve. : (
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
news:NUQJb.808$lE.8...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
Asp3211968
there is a local paint supply place that makes there own paint so far they are
cheaper in price. i just bought a building and i painted inside and out. i
pressure washed the floor to remove old over spray, but it has some contact
cement in a few spots. i also used that tsp and it works great you could tell
the difference. i am going monday to wash with muratic acid solution. then i
will let the floor dry for a few days. they told me it is important to use the
acid but just as important to remove it after do not let it dry on the floor.
you willl have great results with a light paint for lighting. when we sprayed
the inside and the floor was covered with overspray(white) it look like day
light at night. big difference when i wash the floor and removed the over
spray dark and gloomy.
jim
went to one of the big box store(think it was house works), and got some
glidden paint for an interior sheet rock wall..... white paint... the
room was already white... i stood on the ladder and painted the same
spot about four times... the paint would just pour into the sheetrock...
threw the stuff out and went to sherwinn williams and get some real
paint.. one coat and it looked real nice....
suggest you do the same thing.. i would never use glidden again.. my
time is worth too much to mess with that trash...
Dr. Spiff
dollar spent on non-tool stuff is a dollar wasted, I go down to my
local paint store and get their mis-tints. The store you are looking
for probably has had one or more buckets of paint spilled in the
parking area by a painter's helper. Yep, you are looking for the place
where the professional painters, (or at those that get paid for it)
hang out. My local is a Benjamin-Moore store and they carry a Gloss
Alkyd-Enamel which has been on the floor of my shop for at least 5
years. There are some dings and spots in need of a re-coat but I can
say the same about me after 5 years in the shop.
The mistints cost me between $1 and $5 per gallon depending on how
many I buy at time etc. There is not much choice in color, but I get
the "light mis-tints" and have a pie-bald floor. Since my primary
concern is to minimize the concrete dust and promote sweeping up
chips, the color is not a problem. And few people who see my shop even
notice that there is a floor, they are too stunned by all the "stuff"
it contains.
Just a thought.
Rick Dulas
Randal O'Brian
System water-based epoxy in light gray. It has held up very well. and only
now is beginning to show wear-thru in high traffic areas. It has never
peeled or flaked and seems to be oil and solvent proof, plus the water
clean-up makes application easy.
Randy
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
news:NUQJb.808$lE.8...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
Paul Amaranth
> Last summer I painted the floor of my new garage with the Rustoleum Garage
> Floor paint (2 part epoxy) that Home Depot sells. Per the instructions, I
> waited 45 days (label said "at least 30") and until the evening when the
> temp dropped into the high 80s, (label said "xx to 90 degree range").
> Anyway, I don't know if there was still too much moisture in the 6" slab
> since I was extremely careful about keeping it wet while curing or if the
> temperature was too hot (the cans were almost too hot to pick up after
> mixing) but all the paint is cracking and starting to flake off. Let's just
> say I ain't real happy about it right now. I figure sometime this spring I
> will take an air scaler or something and remove all the paint (1100 sq ft)
> and try something else.
>
> Good luck.
> Steve. : (
>
>
Did you have a moisture barrier under the concrete?
At $54/gal the Rustoleum was the cheapest epoxy floor paint I could
find. In the fall, I painted my new shop floor, which had cured for
about 6 months. Prep is crucial and is a royal pita (if you're
thinking about doing this and see one of those floor machines at an
auction, buy it - nobody every wants them and they go cheap. That
ocurred to me AFTER I spent a week on prep). So far, it's been fine,
I've driven my dually and forklift around on it. Even the rocks in
the tires haven't chipped the paint. We'll see how it holds up once
the machinery gets moved in.
Paul
Gunner
>Howdy! As a firm believer in "Form follows Function" and that every
>dollar spent on non-tool stuff is a dollar wasted, I go down to my
>local paint store and get their mis-tints. The store you are looking
>for probably has had one or more buckets of paint spilled in the
>parking area by a painter's helper. Yep, you are looking for the place
>where the professional painters, (or at those that get paid for it)
>hang out. My local is a Benjamin-Moore store and they carry a Gloss
>Alkyd-Enamel which has been on the floor of my shop for at least 5
>years. There are some dings and spots in need of a re-coat but I can
>say the same about me after 5 years in the shop.
>
>The mistints cost me between $1 and $5 per gallon depending on how
>many I buy at time etc. There is not much choice in color, but I get
>the "light mis-tints" and have a pie-bald floor. Since my primary
>concern is to minimize the concrete dust and promote sweeping up
>chips, the color is not a problem. And few people who see my shop even
>notice that there is a floor, they are too stunned by all the "stuff"
>it contains.
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Rick Dulas
Chuckle...I thought I was the only one who did this. Though my local
place charges between 25% and 50% of the original price for mistints.
Gunner
>
>On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 09:19:41 GMT, "V8TR4"
><_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote:
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I'm preparing to paint the floor of my new shop. Went to home depot in a
>>sleep deprived stupor (too many 36 hour days) tonight and picked up some
>>porch and floor paint by Glidden in "Steel Gray". After getting home I
>>realized I have no idea what Glidden might consider steel grey. Is it a
>>light or dark gray? I searched around Glidden site and even other paint
>>sites with no real patch of color to judge by. I am hoping it is not dark
>>gray, because then it means another trip to home depot and then stand in
>>refund line and then back to purchase line.
>>
>>How does this stuff hold up in a shop with no cars? Just a few heavy
>>machines and me.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Oliver
>>
"Gun Control, the theory that a 110lb grandmother should
fist fight a 250lb 19yr old criminal"
Leo Lichtman
SRF wrote: (clip) the cans were almost too hot to pick up after mixing
(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Epoxy resins libetrate heat as they cure, and the cureing rate goes up with
temperature. Since you started out with the paint already pretty warm, and
it heated up further as it cured, it got too hot to handle. I have seen
resins curing in a one-gallon can get swo hot they boiled over and smoked.
This can be helped by pouring it in smaller cans, on in something like a
flat roller pan, to aid heat transfer.
Moisture in the concrete is an enemy to the paint. If the garage is warm,
you can build up vapor pressure behind the new paint film, and get
blistering and peeling. This could be due to the fact that you kept the
concrete damp to help for a slow cure. It could also happen on older
concrete which is on the ground, and absorbing moisture.
AHS
They normally have a booth at several of the Carlisle car shows. It seems
to be real tough stuff, but easy to apply.
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
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Asp3211968
lifetime warranty.
SRF
18" compacted gravel, then vapor barrier, then 3" compacted sand, then 6" of
concrete. While I'm not sure if the problem was the heat or the moisture
I'm letting my next slab sit for at least 3 months before I paint it AND
when the temperature is in the 60s - 70s.
Steve.
"Paul Amaranth" <pa...@auroragrp.com> wrote in message
news:9999cfa0.04010...@posting.google.com...
V8TR4
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I went ahead and returned the Glidden
Concrete stain I purchased and bought the Behr Concrete and Garage epoxy.
http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/products_detail?prodGroupId=14&catName=Co
ncrete+Floor+Coatings&catId=16
I had done most of the floor prepping over the week and am now waiting for
the temp to get to 65 before applying.
I must admit that I have been going crazy trying to get my shop setup. Been
working on it all month. It seems like every little thing I want to do to it
so far has become this giant project with all sorts of hurdles to get over.
Like now I am waiting for the weather to warm up a little and going and
standing in line at Home Depot has really gotten old :)
Thanks again,
Oliver
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
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Paul Amaranth
> ucoat looks expensive, 2x as much as the price i get for epoxy. but it has a
> lifetime warranty.
They have a local store and I checked them out. I think the price
works out to be around $90-100/gal. At that price, I'd go with a
commercial epoxy or water based epoxy you can order from MSC.
Paul
George
"Paul Amaranth" <pa...@auroragrp.com> wrote in message
news:9999cfa0.04010...@posting.google.com...
>
Leigh Knudson
six gallons of light pink Behr floor paint ($1.00/gal) at Home Depot
and then went to the paint counter and had them throw enough black
into each can that I now have a medium gray. I have enough paint to do
the 1100 SQ. Ft of garage. I wouldn't paint the shop floor as the
traffic areas will wear away quickly with the amount of steel chips I
get on the floor. I picked up 5 gallons of concrete sealer at the
local hazardous waste disposal site and intend to use it on the shop
floor. That will keep the dust down and keep oil from permeating the
concrete. So far the investment in the floors is $6.00 but I still
haven't applied it. The sealer goes on with a tank type pressure
sprayer but we'll probably have to roll the floor paint. I am going to
tile the office and bathroom. Leigh@MarMachine
Backlash
"A" and a gallon of "B" , which ends up as 2 gallons of paint, from Sherwin
Williams for $64. This works out to around $32 a gallon.... I painted the
aisleways between the screw machines with it, then sprinkled play sand and
let it dry overnight. Sand was swept off for a real aggressive non-skid
finish.
RJ
"Paul Amaranth" <pa...@auroragrp.com> wrote in message
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V8TR4
today after 24 hours and it was not as glossy as I had hoped. I will begin
moving in my workbenches (1200 pounds each) after 72 hours. I will still use
cardboard under the pallet jack to avoid marring it. Finally my new shop is
coming to fruition :)
I'll try to get some picts up in the next few days.
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
news:00kKb.1351$lE.10...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
Gunner
But...but..Leigh...Sharon might LIKE a pink floor in the shop. <G>
Gunner
"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster
Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton
Larry Jaques
<_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> brought forth from the murky
depths:
>Yesterday afternoon I applied the paint, it looks good so far. I checked it
>today after 24 hours and it was not as glossy as I had hoped. I will begin
>moving in my workbenches (1200 pounds each) after 72 hours. I will still use
>cardboard under the pallet jack to avoid marring it. Finally my new shop is
>coming to fruition :)
Glossy is bad for 2 reasons. First, it reflects too much light and
will glare at you. Second, shiny usually means "slippery".
I used a flat porch paint on my floor and it worked well. The concrete
had already been (poorly) sealed, so I KILZed it and painted it. While
it's not quite as strong as an epoxy paint, it's bright, easy to
sweep, not slippery, and holds up pretty well. It cost roughly $100
less to use than an epoxy paint and I didn't have to do the acid
thang on 'er. Works for me.
=========================================================
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Backlash
RJ
"V8TR4" <_v8tr4_@don't_bother_me_with_spam.com> wrote in message
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Grant Erwin
how tough it is, how much it costs, or how good it looks. It's how easy it
is to *repaint* a few years later! I bought real good epoxy paint, got the
Israeli gas mask, etched the concrete with acid, the whole nine yards, and
got a really gorgeous and tough layer of white paint. Four years later I
tried to repaint it using the manufacturer's directions. I sanded that stuff
to roughen it, for TWO DAYS. It was immaculately clean, and the correct
temperature, and the paint was mixed correctly and applied as best I could.
It bubbled badly. I hate it.
I'm never painting a shop floor again. Sealer, maybe. Paint, forget it.
Grant
Larry Jaques
<grant...@kirkland.net> brought forth from the murky depths:
>The issue I have with garage floor paint isn't how easily it goes on or
>how tough it is, how much it costs, or how good it looks. It's how easy it
>is to *repaint* a few years later! I bought real good epoxy paint, got the
>Israeli gas mask, etched the concrete with acid, the whole nine yards, and
>got a really gorgeous and tough layer of white paint. Four years later I
>tried to repaint it using the manufacturer's directions. I sanded that stuff
>to roughen it, for TWO DAYS. It was immaculately clean, and the correct
>temperature, and the paint was mixed correctly and applied as best I could.
>
>It bubbled badly. I hate it.
Condolences. Add the price to that and it's a real insult.
>I'm never painting a shop floor again. Sealer, maybe. Paint, forget it.
KilzII + porch paint is pretty tough and I doubt I'll have
any trouble whatsoever repainting when it needs it. The Martin
Senour MicroLite putty filled the divots better than I thought
it would. (The shot nails left craters when I pulled out the
dividing wall.)
I sure like that white floor, though. Gray is OK if you're blind
or ex-Navy. (Wait, is there a difference?) <duckin' bigtime>
--------------------------------------------
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http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
======================================================