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2005 F-150 reliability
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stryped
May 17, 2013, 8:52:38 AM5/17/13
to
It looks as if I may look for a new vehicle. My 1996 silverado with 356,000 miles is tired. I am looking at this: http://www.martinautomart.com/detail.aspx?id=3025703&PrefID=6&.aspx
To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
May 17, 2013, 12:43:00 PM5/17/13
to
On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:52:38 -0700 (PDT), stryped <stry...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>It looks as if I may look for a new vehicle. My 1996 silverado with 356,000 miles is tired. I am looking at this: http://www.martinautomart.com/detail.aspx?id=3025703&PrefID=6&.aspx
>
>To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
>
>With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
No - The Ford Triton engine is a pile of doggie doo - The Boss' van
already spit up one sparkplug and wrecked the coil-pack, and the rest
can't be far behind.
Keep the Chevy and replace or rebuild the "tired" parts as they need
it. As long as it isn't rusting away and you keep ahead of the little
problems before they get big, you can keep it running for another 20
years with proper maintenance.
Engines can be rebuilt, or you get a new Targetmaster "Crate Motor"
complete and literally drop it in. (Ford doesn't offer that!)
Transmission shops can do a rebuild of a C4 or C6 in their sleep.
Brakes are easy, tires are normal wear. Paint is a normal wear item,
you might be due.
Even suspension rebuilds aren't that hard - I put upper A-arm bushings
in my C-3500, the hard part was making the press tooling to get them
out and in - and it turns out most of the problem was crap tires.
--<< Bruce >>--
wrote:
>It looks as if I may look for a new vehicle. My 1996 silverado with 356,000 miles is tired. I am looking at this: http://www.martinautomart.com/detail.aspx?id=3025703&PrefID=6&.aspx
>
>To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
>
>With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
already spit up one sparkplug and wrecked the coil-pack, and the rest
can't be far behind.
Keep the Chevy and replace or rebuild the "tired" parts as they need
it. As long as it isn't rusting away and you keep ahead of the little
problems before they get big, you can keep it running for another 20
years with proper maintenance.
Engines can be rebuilt, or you get a new Targetmaster "Crate Motor"
complete and literally drop it in. (Ford doesn't offer that!)
Transmission shops can do a rebuild of a C4 or C6 in their sleep.
Brakes are easy, tires are normal wear. Paint is a normal wear item,
you might be due.
Even suspension rebuilds aren't that hard - I put upper A-arm bushings
in my C-3500, the hard part was making the press tooling to get them
out and in - and it turns out most of the problem was crap tires.
--<< Bruce >>--
Tim Wescott
May 17, 2013, 3:20:24 PM5/17/13
to
very good guide. They don't pay attention to the fact that imports are
more expensive to buy parts for than domestic cars, but the actual
reliability numbers seem to match reality fairly well.
I don't know for sure if they rate trucks, but if they do, it's worth
subscribing to CR for a year just to get access to the web site long
enough to buy a truck. Then let your subscription lapse until you need
another one.
Note that some of the other testing the Consumer's Union does is
laughable pseudo-science. Fortunately they tell you what they've done,
so read any articles carefully and size your grain of salt appropriately.
--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com
chaniarts
May 17, 2013, 3:40:09 PM5/17/13
to
Karl Townsend
May 17, 2013, 7:24:38 PM5/17/13
to
>> I have found the Consumer Reports used-car reliability ratings to be a
>> very good guide. They don't pay attention to the fact that imports are
>> more expensive to buy parts for than domestic cars, but the actual
>> reliability numbers seem to match reality fairly well.
drive system, electrical, brakes, body hardware - worse than avg.
tranny minor, exhaust, paint trim - average
engine major, engine minor, engine cooling, tranny major, fuel system,
climate, suspension, body integrity, power equipment, audio - better
than average
I own a 2007 F150 and LOVE this truck. Rides like a car, works like a
pickup. I don't even own a car any more.
Karl
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 17, 2013, 9:45:40 PM5/17/13
to
On Fri, 17 May 2013 09:43:00 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote:
>On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:52:38 -0700 (PDT), stryped <stry...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>It looks as if I may look for a new vehicle. My 1996 silverado with 356,000 miles is tired. I am looking at this: http://www.martinautomart.com/detail.aspx?id=3025703&PrefID=6&.aspx
>>
>>To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
>>
>>With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
>
>No - The Ford Triton engine is a pile of doggie doo - The Boss' van
>already spit up one sparkplug and wrecked the coil-pack, and the rest
>can't be far behind.
Properly maintained they are not really a particularly BAD engine. I
readable)" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.INVALID> wrote:
>On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:52:38 -0700 (PDT), stryped <stry...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>It looks as if I may look for a new vehicle. My 1996 silverado with 356,000 miles is tired. I am looking at this: http://www.martinautomart.com/detail.aspx?id=3025703&PrefID=6&.aspx
>>
>>To be honest, I am tired of working on stuff. I know this truck with the 5.4 has 115,000 on it. But how reliable are they and are there any problems I can expect in the future with this mileage. I dont mind wrenching, just dont want to have to do it every day as it seems I am having to do now.
>>
>>With proper maintenance could I expect to get 300,000 on a truck such as this?
>
>No - The Ford Triton engine is a pile of doggie doo - The Boss' van
>already spit up one sparkplug and wrecked the coil-pack, and the rest
>can't be far behind.
know quite a few still going at 300,000 miles (500,000km) and as many
SBCs die an early death as FordTritons or Modulars. The OHC Ford
engines ARE more expensive to repair when they do go south.
And Ford DOES offer "crate engines" which are at least as good quality
as GM's "target master" remans. Some of them are pure unadulterated
KaKa.
>
>Keep the Chevy and replace or rebuild the "tired" parts as they need
>it. As long as it isn't rusting away and you keep ahead of the little
>problems before they get big, you can keep it running for another 20
>years with proper maintenance.
>
>Engines can be rebuilt, or you get a new Targetmaster "Crate Motor"
>complete and literally drop it in. (Ford doesn't offer that!)
>Transmission shops can do a rebuild of a C4 or C6 in their sleep.
But a C4 or C6 doesn't fit a Chebby.
>Keep the Chevy and replace or rebuild the "tired" parts as they need
>it. As long as it isn't rusting away and you keep ahead of the little
>problems before they get big, you can keep it running for another 20
>years with proper maintenance.
>
>Engines can be rebuilt, or you get a new Targetmaster "Crate Motor"
>complete and literally drop it in. (Ford doesn't offer that!)
>Transmission shops can do a rebuild of a C4 or C6 in their sleep.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 17, 2013, 9:49:39 PM5/17/13
to
minor problem but can be a headache to replace. Good excuse to put a
set of headers on.
Richard
May 18, 2013, 2:49:27 AM5/18/13
to
So, when does "proper maintenance" begin?
150.000 miles?
150.000 miles?
PrecisionmachinisT
May 18, 2013, 10:29:56 AM5/18/13
to
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:c2ndp8d82k7rsu5tk...@4ax.com...
>
> But a C4 or C6 doesn't fit a Chebby.
>
Aside from removing the infamous yellow snap ring, rebuilding the 4L60E
> But a C4 or C6 doesn't fit a Chebby.
>
isn't particularily difficult, either.
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
May 18, 2013, 11:08:17 AM5/18/13
to
On Sat, 18 May 2013 01:49:27 -0500, Richard <cave...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>So, when does "proper maintenance" begin?
>
>150.000 miles?
No, that's far too late ;-) Proper Maintenance starts at about 2,000
to 3,000 miles, when it get's it's first oil change a bit early - And
if it uses up more than a quart per 1,000 during break-in, you start
an oil consumption investigation with the dealer right from the
get-go.
The goal is one quart between 12,000 changes, but I'll begrudgingly
accept a quart every 3,000 to 5,000 with 5W30 and 0W20 super-thin
stuff they like to specify now. Any more than that, start looking for
leaks and rings/valves problems.
And you get the Factory Service Manual and actually do the things it
calls for, or make sure someone else does - hit all the grease points
underneath, put a dab of grease on the door latches and checks, hinges
and pivots.
The first oil change (sometimes two) is conventional oil till it stops
using any - Once you know the rings are seated you switch to synthetic
oil, and stay with it.
And you have to stay with the factory oil change intervals while it's
still in warrantee, after that you can stretch to 12 to 15,000 with
the synthetic.
The most important: Look, Listen, React. If it makes a new noise or
shake, find out what it is and whether that's good or bad.
Most big problems start out small, if you hear the "scrunch, scrunch,
scrunch" as the brake pad backing just barely kisses the rotor and do
the brakes That Day, you just saved $50 to $150 on a replacement
rotor.
Now you really should have caught it on a visual check before it got
that far, but "Stuff Happens" and you drive other peoples' cars too.
So you learn to listen for that distinctive scraping noise.
--<< Bruce >>--
wrote:
>So, when does "proper maintenance" begin?
>
>150.000 miles?
to 3,000 miles, when it get's it's first oil change a bit early - And
if it uses up more than a quart per 1,000 during break-in, you start
an oil consumption investigation with the dealer right from the
get-go.
The goal is one quart between 12,000 changes, but I'll begrudgingly
accept a quart every 3,000 to 5,000 with 5W30 and 0W20 super-thin
stuff they like to specify now. Any more than that, start looking for
leaks and rings/valves problems.
And you get the Factory Service Manual and actually do the things it
calls for, or make sure someone else does - hit all the grease points
underneath, put a dab of grease on the door latches and checks, hinges
and pivots.
The first oil change (sometimes two) is conventional oil till it stops
using any - Once you know the rings are seated you switch to synthetic
oil, and stay with it.
And you have to stay with the factory oil change intervals while it's
still in warrantee, after that you can stretch to 12 to 15,000 with
the synthetic.
The most important: Look, Listen, React. If it makes a new noise or
shake, find out what it is and whether that's good or bad.
Most big problems start out small, if you hear the "scrunch, scrunch,
scrunch" as the brake pad backing just barely kisses the rotor and do
the brakes That Day, you just saved $50 to $150 on a replacement
rotor.
Now you really should have caught it on a visual check before it got
that far, but "Stuff Happens" and you drive other peoples' cars too.
So you learn to listen for that distinctive scraping noise.
--<< Bruce >>--
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 18, 2013, 9:15:49 PM5/18/13
to
>So, when does "proper maintenance" begin?
>
>150.000 miles?
Best if it starts from new - but better late than never.
>
>150.000 miles?
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 18, 2013, 9:30:09 PM5/18/13
to
maintained. You should ALWAYS know how much friction material is left
on the pads/shoes - and be able to guage how much longer they will
last - replacing them when they are unlikely to last 'till the next
inspection. Sliders and calipers don't seize if properly maintained
and inspected either, so unexpected uneven wear should not be an issue
on a "properly maintained" vehicle. If when checking the brakes a
slider is corroded or sticking, you free it up and lubricate it to
prevent sticking, or replace it - and you check it closely at the next
inspection. That's what "service records" are for.
It's called "preventative maintenance" for a reason. I've owned
vehicles up to over 240,000km without a single "repair" - meaning
correcting a failure - by simply doing pre-enptive maintenance when
indicated - catch it just before it fails.
My current truck has only 312,000 km (give or take) and is just
nicely broken in - still has the original rear brakes - new ones
sitting on the shelf ready to replace when they get worn down far
enough to make it worth while. I've had many customers in the past get
over 500,000km without a single "unscheduled" repair - or a lost time
breakdown - and extremely reasonable operating cost on a per mile
basis. Service is almost ALWAYS cheaper than repair.
PrecisionmachinisT
May 20, 2013, 5:22:40 PM5/20/13
to
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:p6agp81q9ne07gi3h...@4ax.com...
Drive till the doors fall off then buy a new one....
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