Check Buy Coin Prices Online?
spud
of united states coins.
Is there anyplace online I can check for buy/sell prices until the books
arrive?
Thanks
vinces...@hotmail.com
The red book is not going to give buy/sell prices. Depending on how
large your volume of buying and selling is, you may want to get a
subscription to the grey sheet (coin dealer newsletter) from www dot
greysheet dot com. This price list is updated many times a year
instead of just once like the red book and is what most dealers use to
determine their prices.
If you are looking for something online, PCGS has a price guide for
their graded coins, but their listed prices are usually way more than
what they can be gotten for. Cheapest way to go is to pick up a coin
magazine with a price guide on the newstand that will kind of reflect
the current market. Be advised, however, any price guide can get you
into trouble real quick if you haven't learned to grade coins for
yourself.
spud
<vinces...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4655659a-487f-41ea...@l16g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
The red book is not going to give buy/sell prices. Depending on how
large your volume of buying and selling is, you may want to get a
subscription to the grey sheet (coin dealer newsletter) from www dot
greysheet dot com. This price list is updated many times a year
instead of just once like the red book and is what most dealers use to
determine their prices.
If you are looking for something online, PCGS has a price guide for
their graded coins, but their listed prices are usually way more than
what they can be gotten for. Cheapest way to go is to pick up a coin
magazine with a price guide on the newstand that will kind of reflect
the current market. Be advised, however, any price guide can get you
into trouble real quick if you haven't learned to grade coins for
yourself.
Thanks for the useful information. I ordered the red/blue books from amazon
because i
used them as a kid when collecting coins.
Think i should cancel the red/blue book order?
Bruce Remick
"spud" <jj...@att.com> wrote in message
news:6MC5l.1450$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Not at all. The Red Book is a valuable reference book, probably offering
the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your own
research in the real world.
As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
(typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending on
lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've got
nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before you
act.
spud
"Bruce Remick" <rem...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:MbD5l.13526$ly1....@newsfe19.iad...
> the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
> will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
> are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
> think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your own
> research in the real world.
>
> As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
> usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
> (typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
> prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending
> on lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
> dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've
> got nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before
> you act.
Usually traded stuff but didn't sell. A couple of weeks ago i went to an
auction to replace
some of my Amercian Eagle coins that were stolen by a workman in my house.
(I had two for every year from 1986 to 2007). After buying the coins I
needed
I was watching sell prices and noticed most of them were sold at below
market
prices, except for gold coins which went at market prices.
Went I go next time i want a relaible reference book with me.
spud
> news:6MC5l.1450$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>
>> <vinces...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:4655659a-487f-41ea...@l16g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>>
> the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
> will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
> are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
> think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your own
> research in the real world.
>
> As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
> usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
> (typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
> prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending
> on lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
> dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've
> got nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before
> you act.
There is an auction next but the red/blue books will not have arrived in
time.
Are the prices on these web pages buy prces or sell prices? Also, I buy a
up to date magazine.
Screw up story -
I never bought proof sets consistentlyso when the State quarter program
started I only bought nine or ten first year clad 1999 proof sets. while
checking prices
last week I noticed the 1999 silver proofs sets are worth a whole more than
the clad
proof sets. Year 2000 and forward I bought silver proof sets. don't know
why i bought the clad proof sets.
Bruce Remick
>
> "Bruce Remick" <rem...@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:MbD5l.13526$ly1....@newsfe19.iad...
>>
>> "spud" <jj...@att.com> wrote in message
>> news:6MC5l.1450$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>>
>>> <vinces...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:4655659a-487f-41ea...@l16g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>>
>> Not at all. The Red Book is a valuable reference book, probably offering
>> the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
>> will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
>> are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
>> think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your
>> own research in the real world.
>>
>> As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
>> usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
>> (typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
>> prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending
>> on lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
>> dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've
>> got nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before
>> you act.
>
> There is an auction next but the red/blue books will not have arrived in
> time.
> Are the prices on these web pages buy prces or sell prices? Also, I buy a
> up to date magazine.
Unless it states otherwise, the prices listed will be general retail values.
Obviously, there's no one little man who follows the value of every coin in
every grade every month, so lots of these values are ballpark estimates.
YOU decide whether you want to pay more or less.
>
> Screw up story -
> I never bought proof sets consistentlyso when the State quarter program
> started I only bought nine or ten first year clad 1999 proof sets. while
> checking prices
> last week I noticed the 1999 silver proofs sets are worth a whole more
> than the clad
> proof sets. Year 2000 and forward I bought silver proof sets. don't know
> why i bought the clad proof sets.
Probably because they were cheaper and were produced by the MInt first
before the silver sets. But hey, those nine or ten 1999 clad proof sets
haven't been slouches, investment-wise. As for me, I kick myself for not
saving a few rolls of BU WL halves in the late 1940's when you could get
them at face value at the bank, or for not converting a few thousand dollars
in my bank account into silver dollars in the 1950's. We all have our
coulda-shoulda's.
j-rod
The red book and blue book are useless for pricing information.
http://shop.ebay.com/items/__Coins-Paper-Money
http://www.teletrade.com/coins/
You can sign up with these three to at no coat.
A subscription is required to access the CDN.
Good information doesn't come cheap.
JAM
j-rod
No, red book is great for information such as types and mintage of US
coins.
JAM
Mark B.
> Is there anyplace online I can check for buy/sell prices until the books
> arrive?
Yeah, you might try checking in Fantasyland.
Jon Purkey
The two I use are:
http://www.pcgs.com/prices/ - PCGS
http://www.numismedia.com/fmv/fmv.shtml - NumisMedia
But I mainly check the guides (and also the Red Book) to get a general
ideal of what one coin is worth relative to other coins.
Q: Does anyone know how long the NumisMedia price guide has allowed
non-members to check the prices of coins graded higher than MS-60? I
only discovered the change just recently.
Mr. Jaggers
> spud wrote:
>>
>> Earlier this evening I ordered copies of the offical red book and
>> blue book of united states coins.
>> Is there anyplace online I can check for buy/sell prices until the
>> books arrive?
>>
>> Thanks
>
> The red book and blue book are useless for pricing information.
I'd respectfully submit that all price guides are useless in different ways
and to different degrees. If you think the Redbook is problematic, try the
price guides for early copper. They can differ as much as 4X on an item.
Example: 1809 C-4 half cent in XF40 - CQR (Jack Robinson) sez $500, Penny
Prices (Bill Noyes) sez $2000. A good possibility exists that there are
worse discrepancies, and these guides are produced by "experts" in the
field.
James
j-rod
Yes, you hit the nail on the head!
One source can be misleading. It's always a good idea to use more than
one source of information.
JAM
Mr. Jaggers
But even if one uses five or six sources of information, all of which
propose different values, how does one determine which one is the most
accurate ("Will the real Price Guide please stand up")?
James
mazorj
"Mr. Jaggers" <lugburzman[at]yahoo[dot]com> wrote in message
news:gj9c1...@enews5.newsguy.com...
All of these comments provide good advice and caveats; but these are
all "book values" (regardless of which book you use). As such, none
of them is likely to be accurate at any given moment. For example,
stocks have precisely stated book values and even have extremely
accurate selling price histories but the only thing that matters WRT
"real" valuation is what your stock fetched after you sent the sell
order. Ditto for your coins. They're only worth whatever you can get
someone to pay for them when you're ready to sell. Everything else is
just guidance to make an educated guess on what they might fetch.
You would be foolish to "make bank" on any stated value from any
source. At best you'll get a range of reasonable pricing
expectations.
spud
> news:6MC5l.1450$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>
>> <vinces...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> Think i should cancel the red/blue book order?
>>
>
> Not at all. The Red Book is a valuable reference book, probably offering
> the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
> will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
> are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
> think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your own
> research in the real world.
>
> As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
> usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
> (typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
> prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending
> on lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
> dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've
> got nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before
> you act.
I'm interested in a good estimate sell price because I'd like to use it as a
maximum auction
buy price when ever possible.
spud
"The red book and blue book are useless for pricing information.
>
> I'd respectfully submit that all price guides are useless in different
> ways and to different degrees. If you think the Redbook is problematic,
> try the price guides for early copper. They can differ as much as 4X on
> an item. Example: 1809 C-4 half cent in XF40 - CQR (Jack Robinson) sez
> $500, Penny Prices (Bill Noyes) sez $2000. A good possibility exists that
> there are worse discrepancies, and these guides are produced by "experts"
> in the field.
I hear you but a ball park guide will have to do for now.
spud
"j-rod" <j-...@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:4957A8C6...@nospam.net...
Thanks for links, last night I joined http://coins.ha.com
spud
for now i have coin world magazine and the read/blue books when they arrive.
spud
>
> "spud" <jj...@att.com> wrote in message
> news:HIL5l.1491$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>
>> "Bruce Remick" <rem...@cox.net> wrote in message
>> news:MbD5l.13526$ly1....@newsfe19.iad...
>>>
>>> "spud" <jj...@att.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6MC5l.1450$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>>>
>>>> <vinces...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:4655659a-487f-41ea...@l16g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
>> why i bought the clad proof sets.
>
> Probably because they were cheaper and were produced by the MInt first
> before the silver sets.
I always buy silver prooofs so, as you state, the clad were released first.
But hey, those nine or ten 1999 clad proof sets
> haven't been slouches, investment-wise. As for me, I kick myself for not
> saving a few rolls of BU WL halves in the late 1940's when you could get
> them at face value at the bank, or for not converting a few thousand
> dollars in my bank account into silver dollars in the 1950's. We all have
> our coulda-shoulda's.
You're right about the coulda should thing. Also, I've done very well with
American Eagle proof coins as I've bought two every year
since 1986. Some of them have a very high value.
>
>
>
spud
I went to barnes and noble and bought a copy of Coin World's Coin Value
magazine. Do you know if the prices in the magazine are prices the coins
sell for
or are they prices dealers will offer to buy coins?\
spud
"mazorj" <maz...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1OW5l.1604$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Anything is only worth what it sells for. I'm interested only in guides.
Bruce Remick
As several others have mentioned, the prices listed in the various guides
are just that-- guides. Why not check eBay for any coin you're interested
in buying (or selling). See what others are paying for it in various grades
and in various slabs, if applicable. That should give you more of a "real
world" idea of what a good deal might be. This also assumes of course that
you know how to grade the coins you're buying, especially if they're "raw"
or have been graded and slabbed by one of the less respected companies.
Bruce Remick
Those prices are approximate sell prices. They are supposed to reflect what
coins have sold for, dealer price lists, etc., but obviously no one price
guide monitors every coin transaction to see what people are really paying,
especially for lower grade or common modern examples. Few dealers would
ever list the prices they will pay for each date/mint coin in every grade.
It was good advice that the price you might get for any coin depends on what
someone is willing to pay for it when you're ready to sell it. That could
change from time to time and will also depend on where you try to sell it.
Bruce Remick
If you'll give us some examples of specific coins you're looking to either
buy or sell, you might get some good advice here on where to buy, what to
pay, or how much to expect if selling. Beats paying for a book.
j-rod
Well, eBay, Teletrade and Heritage do list actual sale prices.
Sometimes you just have to guesstimate.
JAM
j-rod
Didja miss my previous post?
http://shop.ebay.com/items/__Coins-Paper-Money
http://www.teletrade.com/coins/
You can sign up with these three to at no coat.
All three list actual sale prices.
JAM
j-rod
Umm, disregard my previous post. I hadn't read your response to it.
JAM
Bruce Remick
And if you're buying the "big stuff", the price you pay may well be
reflected in the next price guides. On the other hand, if your goal is to
protect yourself by paying no more than the "buy" price for a coin, you'd
better know pretty well what you're doing so you don't get taken.
Mr. Jaggers
Auction results are valuable indicators as to what a given coin was worth at
a given time to a given buyer under given circumstances, but not very
reliable indicators of what my coin will be worth when it goes on the block.
Different coin, different time, different buyer, different circumstances,
and all that. Besides, if you read the front matter of all the printed
price guides, each and every one claims to be some sort of composite or
synthesis of recent sales of real coins.
"Sometimes"? I'd have to say "Always" guesstimate, "guesstimate" being the
operative word here. And I don't think I'd want it any other way. Coin
life is good!
James
note.boy
I agree also, guides are just guides, very useful but not to be used as
being 100% accurate for values.
Just because a coin or note achieves a high price at auction does not mean
that it's actually worth the price paid, the buyer and under bidder may have
got themselves into a bidding war or caught auction fever.
One specialist auction can cause the values up to that point to be thrown
out of the window.
A close scrutiny of dealer price lists and auctions, both on line and off,
is the best way of getting an idea of a collectable's value.
Unfortunately there is no shortcut to experience. Billy
Mr. Jaggers
All true, and sometimes I feel that after fifty years experience I still
don't know what I'm doing. And even if I do, it takes another person who is
equally well informed to make a transaction, and those are not always easy
to find.
James
Bruce Remick
"note.boy" <note...@naespamntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FS16l.90871$en7....@newsfe28.ams2...
I often wonder if the people who monitor major auctions for coin price
information ever look at the results of those lesser auctions that aren't
advertised by a glossy color catalog. It would be easy for me to believe
that the results of the coin sales in those major super-collector
liquidation auctions are being used to project the values of the lesser
quality coins we see in the price guides-- coins which are not apt to appear
in auctions. In the same way, I wonder if the prices realized for those
"super coins" in major auctions really relate to how mainstream collectors
or investors value lesser coins that may be far from "condition census"? I
disagree with the notion that just because a certain rarity brings $500,000
at auction that it means the overall coin market is healthy.
And to me, any coins on dealer price lists are not coins that have sold and
shouldn't be used to establish market values.
Mr. Jaggers
You're making way too much sense here, Bruce. I think we need to conjure up
some vast conspiracy theory to explain it all. 8>)
James
Bruce Remick
"Mr. Jaggers" <lugburzman[at]yahoo[dot]com> wrote in message
Or maybe just a half-vast one to start with until more people provide input.
Trouble is, even if we were able to come up with a theory, we'd just be
right back where we started.
mazorj
Okay, fair enough. You've gotten an earful of useful advice here to
guide you. All of which boils down to "There ain't no such animal as
an absolutely accurate and reliable pricing guide, the best you can
get is a range of prices, and there are no shortcuts because there's
no substitute for knowing about coins and knowing the market." Even
armed with that, I'm sure that every collector here has made a
purchase or sale and later gone "Doh!" when they saw the same item go
for a higher or lower price. Don't lose any sleep when that happens
because then it's no longer any fun.
Mr. Jaggers
In fact, if you make monetary concerns occupy more than 10% of your
thoughts, you're in the wrong game. Coin collecting is all about building
camaraderie, learning some art, history, and economics, and enjoying time
travel into the past.
James
mazorj
"Mr. Jaggers" <lugburzman[at]yahoo[dot]com> wrote in message
Well, technically numismatics is *all* money anyway. :-D
The time travel thing is weird. I have a few crappy ancient coins.
They have no collector value whatsoever so I hold them, rub their
corroded surfaces, try to decipher the little lettering that still
shows, and marvel at the fact that that I'm holding an artifact of
people and civilizations that disappeared nearly two millennia in the
past. You feel a connection to all those who held it in their hands.
It's like having your own private museum pieces.
I also have a Chuck E. Cheese token but all that evokes is memories of
bad, overpriced pizza and my kids clamoring for more game money.
spud
> are just that-- guides. Why not check eBay for any coin you're interested
> in buying (or selling). See what others are paying for it in various
> grades and in various slabs, if applicable. That should give you more of a
> "real world" idea of what a good deal might be. This also assumes of
> course that you know how to grade the coins you're buying, especially if
> they're "raw" or have been graded and slabbed by one of the less respected
> companies.
>
American Eagles 1995 w to replace the two stolen from me and I plan to buy
from the mint a high relief
saint gaudens double eagle. Except the replacment coins I usually buy
direct from the US mint
and art medals directly from the the Fench mint. I'm going to check some
ebay prices later tonight.
Buying at auctions is new for me
I've gotten many helpful responses to my questions. .
Thanks everybody
spud
> you. All of which boils down to "There ain't no such animal as an
> absolutely accurate and reliable pricing guide, the best you can get is a
> range of prices, and there are no shortcuts because there's no substitute
> for knowing about coins and knowing the market." Even armed with that,
> I'm sure that every collector here has made a purchase or sale and later
> gone "Doh!" when they saw the same item go for a higher or lower price.
> Don't lose any sleep when that happens because then it's no longer any
> fun.
I agree completely.
I collect coins, and other stuff, because it's fun. Recently I got a charge
from
how much money some of the American Eagle proofs are worth, but first they
are beautiful coins. A month ago I bought a 1928 ms 63 st gaudens double
eagle
primary because, to me, it's a beautiful coin. next month I'm going to buy
the
high relief double eagle. If I make a couple of bucks from these coins
great
if not that's ok too. I like the coins. Fact is i get as much enjoymnet
from some of the
art medals as i do from so of the coins. Some of them are beautiful but the
exchange rate was killing me.
If I get serious about coin collecting I'll become more obessive about
prices.
spud
"Mr. Jaggers" <lugburzman[at]yahoo[dot]com> wrote in message
> mazorj wrote:
>> "spud" <jj...@att.com> wrote in message
>> news:poX5l.1655$BC4...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
>>>
>>> "mazorj" <maz...@verizon.net> wrote in message
>>> news:1OW5l.1604$Es4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> thoughts, you're in the wrong game. Coin collecting is all about building
> camaraderie, learning some art, history, and economics, and enjoying time
> travel into the past.
>
> James
Couldn';t agree more
spud
Learning grading is the next big thing for. Might look for a local coin
club.
spud
1995 W AMerican Eagle proof. I'll take experience everytime over a book.
note.boy
"Mr. Jaggers" <lugburzman[at]yahoo[dot]com> wrote in message
I can read a banknote auction catalogue weeks before the auction and then
after the auction spot something that I should have placed a bid on, it
often has sold for a "bargain" price just to make it worse. Billy
note.boy
I have a very common ancient Roman coin that I bought many years ago for Ł1
but I will never part with it as it's the first of just a few that I have.
One fascinating thing about ancient coins is the amount of effort that went
into their production, much more difficult that with more recent coins.
The metal had to be located and mined, then refined, then the blanks made,
the dies cut and then the coins struck by hand, all involving a huge amount
of effort and transportation, amazing. Billy
Bruce Remick
With some of the types of coins you mention, there's not much price variance
to play with. Most 1995 gold or silver eagles will likely be priced about
the same. (Hope you didn't lose one of the 1995-W Proof SAE's.) Any price
differences will depend on whether you want your Eagle graded and slabbed by
one of the third party graders, along with what particular grade you insist
upon, if any. If you do buy one of the new high relief double eagles from
the Mint, you're pretty much stuck with what they decide to charge. Good
luck with the auctions.
Bruce Remick
Just think of the romantic visions that CEC token might evoke when someone
handles it 2000 years from now.....after cracking it out of its slab of
course. Made me think. Imagine distant future archaeologists digging up
slabbed coins from the year 2000. Will they ever understand the subtle
differences among long-ago slabbers? Perhaps if DQB is still
writing..........
Bruce Remick
At least learn how to determine the grade of whatever particular coin type
you plan to buy next, unless you're buying directly from the Mint. You
probably should have familiarized yourself with how to recognize the subtle
MS grade differences in the St. Gaudens $20 series before buying that MS63
1928 you mentioned. Especially if you bought a "raw" one. Fortunately,
there's not a lot of price difference with that particular date from MS62 to
MS64. But with many other coins, paying a MS63 price for a coin that's
really a MS62 or 61 could cost you a bundle in the long run when you want to
sell it.
Bruce Remick
Ouch!! If it is indeed a 1995-W SILVER American Eagle proof that you lost
and are looking to replace, that's a $3,500 to $4,500 range coin, depending
on whether it's in its Mint case, TPG-slabbed, who slabbed it, and what
grade they assigned.
If it's a 1995 GOLD Eagle ($50), you're probably looking at a "common"
$1,000 to $1,200 coin. Chump change.
mazorj
> I have a very common ancient Roman coin that I bought many years ago
> for Ł1 but I will never part with it as it's the first of just a few
> that I have.
>
> One fascinating thing about ancient coins is the amount of effort
> that went into their production, much more difficult that with more
> recent coins.
>
> The metal had to be located and mined, then refined, then the blanks
> made, the dies cut and then the coins struck by hand, all involving
> a huge amount of effort and transportation, amazing. Billy
Especially the ones with really well-done dies and well-struck
surfaces. You have to marvel at the workmanship that went into the
more outstanding examples. It would be considered the work of a
talented amateur by today's standards but we're talking about a period
when metallurgy and tools were fairly primitive. How did they do
that?
mazorj
>> I also have a Chuck E. Cheese token but all that evokes is memories
>> of bad, overpriced pizza and my kids clamoring for more game money.
>
> Just think of the romantic visions that CEC token might evoke when
> someone handles it 2000 years from now.....after cracking it out of
> its slab of course. Made me think. Imagine distant future
> archaeologists digging up slabbed coins from the year 2000. Will
> they ever understand the subtle differences among long-ago slabbers?
> Perhaps if DQB is still writing..........
Or Finnan is still bitching...
You also wonder what they will make of our choices of things to
memorialize on coins and medals - especially a CEC or an Elvis
quarter. In the 1940s there was a science fiction story about aliens
who landed on a dead and barren Earth. The only surviving item they
found with any pictorial depictions was a reel of film which they play
on a jury-rigged projector. Much like modern archeologists, the
aliens go on and on with elaborate speculative conclusions about the
various hand-drawn life forms and how they interact. The punch line
at the very end is some mysterious written language, that reads...
...
...
...
A Walt Disney Production
spud
>>>
>> . Right now I'm looking for
>> American Eagles 1995 w to replace the two stolen from me and I plan to
>> buy from the mint a high relief
>> saint gaudens double eagle. Except the replacment coins I usually buy
>> direct from the US mint
>> and art medals directly from the the Fench mint. I'm going to check
>> some ebay prices later tonight.
>> Buying at auctions is new for me
>> I've gotten many helpful responses to my questions. .
>> Thanks everybody
>
> With some of the types of coins you mention, there's not much price
> variance to play with. Most 1995 gold or silver eagles will likely be
> priced about the same. (Hope you didn't lose one of the 1995-W Proof
> SAE's.) Any price differences will depend on whether you want your Eagle
> graded and slabbed by one of the third party graders, along with what
> particular grade you insist upon, if any. If you do buy one of the new
> high relief double eagles from the Mint, you're pretty much stuck with
> what they decide to charge. Good luck with the auctions.
I had two complete sets of American Eagle silver proof coins.
Both of the silver American Eagle 1995 W proofs coins and
others were stolen along with other coins.
Overall, I've done well investment wise for the proofs I've bought over the
years.
As previously mentioned I bought several 1999 clad proof sets and I
discovered five
clad 1999 state quarter proof sets. would've been nice had they been silver
proofs.
If the high relief double eagles are not greatly over priced from say a
proof
gold double eagle I'll buy one.
The auctions are new to me and I realize I don't know enough to not get
burned
if I stick mostly to proofs or graded coins I might be ok, 'til I learn
more.
spud
>>
> Those prices are approximate sell prices. They are supposed to reflect
> what coins have sold for, dealer price lists, etc., but obviously no one
> price guide monitors every coin transaction to see what people are really
> paying, especially for lower grade or common modern examples. Few
> dealers would ever list the prices they will pay for each date/mint coin
> in every grade.
>
> It was good advice that the price you might get for any coin depends on
> what someone is willing to pay for it when you're ready to sell it. That
> could change from time to time and will also depend on where you try to
> sell it.
I don't plan on selling anything for awhile, but might try to trade some
later on.
If I stick with proof coins I think I'll be ok for now.
spud
>
>
> At least learn how to determine the grade of whatever particular coin type
> you plan to buy next, unless you're buying directly from the Mint. You
> probably should have familiarized yourself with how to recognize the
> subtle MS grade differences in the St. Gaudens $20 series before buying
> that MS63 1928 you mentioned. Especially if you bought a "raw" one.
> Fortunately, there's not a lot of price difference with that particular
> date from MS62 to MS64. But with many other coins, paying a MS63 price
> for a coin that's really a MS62 or 61 could cost you a bundle in the long
> run when you want to sell it.
I got it for a good price. slabbed ms63. It's appreciated some since i
bought it.
spud
Two AE W silver proof each clad in plastic mint case then packaged in
velvet case.
then mint cardboard box. Lots of other stuff got stolen at the same time.
$3,500.00 - $4,500.00 I think it's going to be awhile before those coins are
replaced.
I moved it all to safe deposit box.
It was very pasinless buying those coins each year.
Phil DeMayo
> Two AE W silver proof each �clad in plastic mint case then packaged in
> velvet case.
> then mint cardboard box. � �Lots of other stuff got stolen at the same time.
If that's the way your two 1995-W Proof Silver Eagles were packaged,
then you didn't get them directly from the Mint.
The 1995-W Proof Silver Eagles were originally FREE from the Mint.
In 1995 the Mint offered two versions of their Proof Gold Eagle
sets....a four coin set containing the 1/10th 1/4, 1/2 and one ounce
proof gold eagles....and a five coin set which added the 1995-W Proof
Silver Eagle to commemorate the program's 10th year.
Both the 4 coin and 5 coin sets were the same price....so the 1995-W
Proof Silver Eagle was essentially free if you chose that option.
About 30,000 buyers wisely chose the 5 coin set.
There was no other way to obtain the 1995-W from the Mint.
spud
"Phil DeMayo" <flip...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:74867ada-b527-44ac...@o40g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 29, 8:36?pm, "spud" <j...@att.com> wrote:
> Two AE W silver proof each ?clad in plastic mint case then packaged in
> velvet case.
> then mint cardboard box. ? ?Lots of other stuff got stolen at the same
spud
"Phil DeMayo" <flip...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:74867ada-b527-44ac...@o40g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
> Two AE W silver proof each ?clad in plastic mint case then packaged in
> velvet case.
> then mint cardboard box. ? ?Lots of other stuff got stolen at the same
> time.
If that's the way your two 1995-W Proof Silver Eagles were packaged,
then you didn't get them directly from the Mint.
The 1995-W Proof Silver Eagles were originally FREE from the Mint.
In 1995 the Mint offered two versions of their Proof Gold Eagle
sets....a four coin set containing the 1/10th 1/4, 1/2 and one ounce
proof gold eagles....and a five coin set which added the 1995-W Proof
Silver Eagle to commemorate the program's 10th year.
Both the 4 coin and 5 coin sets were the same price....so the 1995-W
Proof Silver Eagle was essentially free if you chose that option.
About 30,000 buyers wisely chose the 5 coin set.
There was no other way to obtain the 1995-W from the Mint.
**************************************************************************************
Every american eagle proof I bought was from the mint. Before the Mint
website I bought from the
catalog. I don't remember buying any four coin set gold or otherwise from
the mint. i assumed the 1995 w
was some of the coins that stolen. guess not.
Phil DeMayo
> Every american eagle proof I bought was from the mint. �Before the Mint
> website I bought from the
> catalog. �I don't remember buying any four coin set gold or otherwise from
> the mint. i assumed the 1995 w
> was some of the coins that stolen. � �guess not.
I can assure you that if you purchased 1995 Proof Silver Eagles
directly from the Mint in the individual packaging that you described
in your earlier post, they were "P" Mint proofs.....not "W".
The Mint didn't start "regularly" minting proof Silver Eagles at the
West Point Mint until 2000.
mazorj
Mostly but not entirely. It depends on what your goal is. Even the
Mint's annual slabbed sets of 4 presidential dollar proofs can easily
be cracked open and cherry-picked for 69s and 70s and mint errors.
They're replaced with lower-quality proofs and sold to unsuspecting
buyers. It's not a problem if all you care about it is that there are
4 proof coins in an intact (but not necessarily unopened) Mint slab.
If you're pursuing the highest quality examples or are searching for
error coins, this is a perfect example of "buy the coin, not the
slab".
note.boy
Can anyone explain why a collector would pay a lot of money for a Government
issued "silver round", SAE, in high MS grade?
It makes no sense to me at all. Billy
Mr. Jaggers
We call it testosterone poisoning over here on this side, Billy.
James
Bruce Remick
It never made sense to me why so many collectors are infatuated by high-MS
bullion coins. I guess it's because others have shown that they will pay a
premium for just about anything with MS70 on it.
spud
On Dec 29, 9:55?pm, "spud" <j...@att.com> wrote:
> Every american eagle proof I bought was from the mint. ?Before the Mint
> website I bought from the
> catalog. ?I don't remember buying any four coin set gold or otherwise from
> the mint. i assumed the 1995 w
> was some of the coins that stolen. ? ?guess not.
I can assure you that if you purchased 1995 Proof Silver Eagles
directly from the Mint in the individual packaging that you described
in your earlier post, they were "P" Mint proofs.....not "W".
That's good to know. I'm less depressed about the loss.
mazorj
"note.boy" <note...@naespamntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:lMm6l.64578$9U2....@newsfe17.ams2...
>
> news:iec6l.46506$Uk3....@newsfe10.iad...
>> With some of the types of coins you mention, there's not much price
>> variance to play with. Most 1995 gold or silver eagles will likely
>> be priced about the same. (Hope you didn't lose one of the 1995-W
>> Proof SAE's.) Any price differences will depend on whether you
>> want your Eagle graded and slabbed by one of the third party
>> graders, along with what particular grade you insist upon, if any.
>> If you do buy one of the new high relief double eagles from the
>> Mint, you're pretty much stuck with what they decide to charge.
>> Good luck with the auctions.
>
> Can anyone explain why a collector would pay a lot of money for a
> Government issued "silver round", SAE, in high MS grade?
>
> It makes no sense to me at all. Billy
Part of it is the same reason that people pay high premiums for an
MS64 coin when an MS63 can be had for one-third the price - they
figure that if they're paying more, it must be worth more. That can
be true in a limited short-term horizon. Buying a Beanie Baby for
$100 made sense when you could flip it to a collector for $200 even
though like an SAE, its intrinsic "worth" on a toy store shelf was
about $10. Like the collectors who paid high prices for then-scarce
Morgans before the Treasury cache was released, buyers using pricing
differentials based on slab population reports of minor grade
differences may regret their purchases if population pricing turns out
to be a fad. I doubt that population pricing will disappear but it
remains to be seen how much it will drive markets in the future.
SAEs will hold their value better than Beanie Babies and certain ones
with limited mintage are worth seeking out even at premium prices; but
if you want them as bullion coins you'd be crazy not to buy business
strikes in bulk, priced at melt plus a small mark-up.
I started collecting them from the other direction. They had eye
appeal for me with their return to classic coin design and themes writ
large on a white metal canvas, and their harkening back to the
"cartwheel" silver dollar which in my mind always symbolized American
power and wealth. Except for the larger gold coins, nothing rivals
the solid heft and pleasing ring of a silver dollar. I started by
buying 3 uncirculated ones every year to pass on to my kids and now
buy them only in the proof issues. (Yes, I wish I had started out
from the beginning with proofs! But at first I was getting the
uncirculated ones for as little as $8 through advertising promotions.)
spud
>>
>
> Not at all. The Red Book is a valuable reference book, probably offering
> the most overall bang for the buck. Ohterwise, there's no one book that
> will tell you what to pay for a specific coin in a specific grade. There
> are various guides that will give you a pretty good idea of what experts
> think individual coins *should* sell for. But you'll have to do your own
> research in the real world.
>
> As for the Blue Book, I never placed much stock in that one, but it's
> usually a pretty cheap buy. Personally, I would sell a coin to a dealer
> (typically at Blue Book prices or lower) only as a last resort. And buy
> prices will vary much more widely than the book might suggest, depending
> on lots of factors. If there are collectors who will pay "retail" from
> dealers, why sell your better coins to dealers at wholesale? If you've
> got nice coins you want to part with, check out the other options before
> you act.
Both books arrived today and I took the red book with me to the auction.
it was very useful, more useful then the coin world magazine. Also, it
lists
exceptions, which the coin world magazine doesn't do as far as i can tell.
most coins proof sets were clad (I try to only buy silver) amazingly lots of
them sold for more than
retail prices in the Red Book and the Coin World magazine. go figure. I
couldn't resist a
clad 1999 nine coin proof set that i got for $15.00.
The Red Book is going to be very helpful what with the grading information,
coin history, etc.
Thanks again everybody.
also disovered some old whitman coin folders for pennies, jeff & buffalo
nivckles, mercury &
rossevelt dimes. i think i spent the folders for quarters, halves and
dollars.
Aladdin Sane
>>
>>
>> I'm interested in a good estimate sell price because I'd like to use it
>> as a maximum auction
>> buy price when ever possible.
>
> As several others have mentioned, the prices listed in the various guides
> are just that-- guides. Why not check eBay for any coin you're interested
> in buying (or selling). See what others are paying for it in various
> grades and in various slabs, if applicable. That should give you more of a
> "real world" idea of what a good deal might be. This also assumes of
> course that you know how to grade the coins you're buying, especially if
> they're "raw" or have been graded and slabbed by one of the less respected
> companies.
If you want to do some in depth research, here is the site with all the raw
data PCGS uses to update their coin price guide. Sorted by denomination,
type, grade and grading company
http://www.pcgs.com/auctionprices/AuctionFirmList.aspx
--
*
/?\
/___\
-O=O-
^
AS & His Magic Hat
A conclusion is simply the place
where you decided to stop thinking.
spud
>
>> I don't plan on selling anything for awhile, but might try to trade some
>> later on.
>> If I stick with proof coins I think I'll be ok for now.
>
> Mostly but not entirely. It depends on what your goal is. Even the
> Mint's annual slabbed sets of 4 presidential dollar proofs can easily be
> cracked open and cherry-picked for 69s and 70s and mint errors. They're
> replaced with lower-quality proofs and sold to unsuspecting buyers. It's
> not a problem if all you care about it is that there are 4 proof coins in
> an intact (but not necessarily unopened) Mint slab. If you're pursuing the
> highest quality examples or are searching for error coins, this is a
> perfect example of "buy the coin, not the slab".
The presidential dollars are not something I would
collect. I'm not attracted to them on any level. I enjoy beautiful
coins.With the little I know
the French mint is tough to beat when it come artistry. I'm not interested
in ms-69 or ms70 coins.