If I had a $1,000 to spend what would I buy.
Larry Louks
>>If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money, what
would you buy?<<
No doubt the mileage will vary on this one. :) Given my newly-found
appreciation for the beauty of Walking Liberty halves, I would definitely
find an excellent specimen or two from the early years of the series. In
addition, I would also get myself a really nice Seated Liberty dollar.
Happy hunting on your quest to put that thousand bucks in someone else's
pocket! :)
-=LDL
John Carney
news:v7kcjv8hmjju5inl3...@4ax.com...
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
> key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
> If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
> what would you buy?
Personally, I'd wait and scrape together another few hundred and buy a 1955/55 DDO
Lincoln. My second choice, if I didn't already have them, would be either an AU 09SVDB or
an AU 1914D. Next down the list would be an Isabella quarter in MS64 or so. Don't discount
the old copper though, Cliff. I recently bought both a 1798 LC and an 1804 HC to keep it
company and I like 'em.
--
John
Visit the RCCers favorite coins web page
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jcarney44/coins/rccers.html
Ira Stein
<< Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
what would you buy?
Cliff
>>
If it were me, I'd buy a 1922 No D 1c w/strong reverse. A certified (aways buy
the keys certified) No D in VF30 would be about $950-$1000, I did see a SEGS
for sale for about $950 graded EF-40, but it's about a VF-20/25 in my
opinion..I've seen it. I paid $1780 for a true EF-40 in PCGS holder at ANA.
There are no fire sales in properly graded keys.
You won't be able to buy an accurately graded 1932-D quarter in mid to high unc
for $1000. I paid over $2200 for a PCGS MS-63 at the ANA in a PCGS holder but
you might find a MS-62/3 1932-S that looks okay in that range. Still, for
absolute rarity, I'd try for the 1922 No D over the 1909 S VDB, but it's really
a personal choice. Buy what you like.
For safety sake, stick with PCGS or NGC in these coins. You might also consider
a F-VF 1877 IHC as well..also slabbed by either of the top 2.
BTW, I don't have any of these in stock in the grades I'm suggesting, lest
anyone think I have an ulterior motive in these choices.
Ira Stein
Michael Benveniste
wrote:
>Should I buy a mid grade certified 1909-S VDB,
Am I the only one who feels that this is the most overpriced U.S. coin
out there? I'd rather have a 1909 V.D.B. matte proof -- you get
genuine scarcity and a better story to tell.
>a couple of higher graded certified commemoratives (classics),
Recommended only if you expect to have such money to spend on a
regular basis, and your psyche permits you to control potential
addictions.
>some high grade certified Franklins
I prefer Walkers, but that's what makes the hobby interesting. The
cavalier attitude the mint had towards coin quality in the 1950's is
something I'd prefer to forget.
>some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
If you're already well on the way towards completing your Washington
quarter set, why not? BUt if, like others I've known, you get bored
by the set before you complete it, you'll take a large hit on resale.
>If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
>what would you buy?
If I'm allowed to wheel and deal, I'd sell my current trade dollar and
a buffalo buck and buy a nice MS-62 trade dollar as an upgrade. For a
cash only deal, an impossible to find 1909 V.D.B proof (in PR-63 Brn)
or an Pr-64 Cameo Barber quarter.
--
Michael Benveniste -- mhb-...@clearether.com
Spam and UCE professionally evaluated for $250. Use this email
address only to submit mail for evaluation.
Larry Louks
>>BTW, I don't have any of these in stock in the grades I'm suggesting, lest
anyone think I have an ulterior motive in these choices.<<
Ira, though I'm a newcomer to the group, I've read numerous posts that
you've either initiated or replied to. I would honestly be aghast to hear
that anyone would suspect such a thing of you. Thank you for what you mean
to this group, and on a larger scale, to the numismatic community.
-=LDL
Oregon
justify the cost. Not thrilling from a historical perspective, but a good
looking coin.
Nick Knight
I know nothing of these, to be honest. But I'm assuming, since you've
indicated you'd get "one", that they're pricey. I've also read other
responses that center, mostly, on modern coins. While I realize this is
probably the norm, and while my thinking isn't "radical" (particularly
compared to some of the non-coins expression we're seen here recently :), I
just went to the ANA with this level of a US coin budget in mind, and came
up with this, with some significant change from your $1k to spare:
>1822 O-104 PCGS MS62:
> http://www.mr2ice.com/coins/new/1822-104o.jpg
> http://www.mr2ice.com/coins/new/1822-104r.jpg
>Two spots on the obverse, one not so obvious over the first 2 in the date.
>These are simply small toning spots. Sure, I wish they weren't there,
>but I love this one anyway. Coin is actually "more white" than it
>appears in the scan.
There are also a host of pre-1700 Talers that would be a great target, too.
You could pick up 3-4-5 Very nice examples, or 2-3 EXTREMELY nice examples,
including some pre-1600's pieces (at this budget level, double talers /
klippes are easily in reach, too). For those who've never considered these,
these are silver-dollar-sized coins from various countries/states (German
state coins are popular, for example). A double taler would be twice as
large (either in thickness or diameter, but it would contain twice the
silver as a single).
Here's a nice double taler I brought home from the ANA:
>Teutonic Order Double Taler (images are large - 4x):
> http://www.mr2ice.com/coins/new/D5854x2-1614o.jpg
> http://www.mr2ice.com/coins/new/D5854x2-1614r.jpg
That's where I would, and in fact just did, spend my money :).
Nick
George D
Cliff wrote:
>
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
> key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
> If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
> what would you buy?
> Cliff
I would make up a list of every coin that "I" wanted. Than thru a process of elimination I would
narrow it down to the coin or coins that I could not do without.
For my purpose I would make up a list of the "type" coins I still have to get to finish that set.
You don't have to spend it all in one place, or at least I don't think you do. Take your time and
buy what "you" want.
--
George D
Phoenix, AZ
AAA, AARP, ANA, NRA, RCC ?+1, PIA, PIAAZ, GATF 85006-3032-18-4
The reward for a good deed is to have done it.
Please use this address to mail me. Or remove the arizona in the link.
Remember there is no Arizona.
geo...@att.net
ALL emails incoming and outgoing are run thru Norton and AVG anti virus.
John Long
I will second that opinion of Ira. I have the utmost respect for him
and his contributions to this newsgroup and to the coin collecting
hobby/business.
John
Ankaaz
"If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money, what
would you buy?"
I'd buy $1,000 worth of Intercept Sheild holders for my husband's collection.
I keep bugging him about those cheap flips he's had now for umpteen years, but
he's always got an excuse not to replace them.
Anka <------------ my ancients have made it to the 21st century
steve norton
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
> key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
> what would you buy?
>
Do you have any gold in your collection? How about a nice bullion value
circulated $20 liberty? I know it will knock out a bunch of value, but
you can take your time, search many dealers, and get a good price on a
neat coin.
Maybe one of the classic error coins. Someone else mentioned a 55 DDO
lincoln, or how about a 42/41 mercury dime overdate?
Nick Knight
>Maybe one of the classic error coins. Someone else mentioned a 55 DDO
>lincoln, or how about a 42/41 mercury dime overdate?
Don't know if you meant it the way I read it, but I'll ask about what I
perceive here .., first, a short background.
In another forum recently, I was surprised to learn that die cracks are
considered a form of mint error. Particularly with modern minting, but even
in the old times. Odd to me, as some varieties of bust halves (my focus)
CAN'T be acquired without cracks, and cracks were just being economic with
dies at that time (getting all the use they could out of them, using them
until they literally fell apart). Cracks in bust era coins are VERY common.
Are you clumping an overdate in with "error coins"? In bust era coinage,
overdates were simply redating "left over" dies. I guess I can see someone
mispuching a digit on a die, then repunching with the correctone, but I've
always thought that overdates were simply a result of left overs.
So, I recently learned that die cracks were considered errors (hey! I'm an
error collector and I didn't even know it!). Are overdates also considered
"errors", or did I just read too much into your two sentences?
Nick
steve norton
>
> So, I recently learned that die cracks were considered errors (hey! I'm an
> error collector and I didn't even know it!). Are overdates also considered
> "errors", or did I just read too much into your two sentences?
Thanks for the clarification. I meant to say "coins where somethin is
not quite right" and mistakenly used the word "error" :)
I guess I consider the 42/41 an error, since I dont really collect a lot
of bust halves or other coins where overdates are... well... common.
Wait, maybe common is not the right word. I dunno. I hope I didn't
just start a flame war.
ynotan
--
Tony Hawley, PO BOX 15174, Portland,Oregon 97293-5174, E-mail :
yno...@comcast.net, eBay ID: ynotan1, RCC - ID: ynotan, ANA # R-192172
"John Carney" <jcar...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:bh5kft$tndus$1...@ID-134464.news.uni-berlin.de...
David Hollister
around $800-1100 depending on eye appeal. Of course PCGS doesn't designate
the coin as PL, but believe me you ....you see one you'll know it. If you
don't care for the New Rochelle, I would buy either a Hudson or Spanish
Trail. And actually if you go with the Spanish Trail I'd spend the extra
$200 and get one in 66 versus the 65.
crc2074
"steve norton" <sn+n...@speakeasy.net> wrote in message
news:pZSdne5E06R...@speakeasy.net...
31 years capped bust halves were minted have overdates. One
year--1815/12--only exists as an overdate.
As for the OP's question, I would try to find a nice 1827 O-127 to complete
my R-5 varities for that year.
JimP
(Would also be willing to settle for a O-148 for the same price!)
mark
> I'm in a quandry.
>If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
>what would you buy?
I'd buy several semi-key dates I need: 1912-S V nickel, 31-S Lincoln, 13-D
buffalo, and then probably spend the rest on British half pennies that I'm
missing. But that's just me.
It seems you aren't driven by the need to have to complete a set right now, so
why not something that has always been an attraction? Perhaps an Isabella
quarter, or large crown-sized foriegn coin? Some of the German states large
silver is quite striking.
--
mark
this part@xit.net Dale Hallmark
> >From: Cliff cli...@bellsouth.net
>
> > I'm in a quandry.
> >If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
> >what would you buy?
>
I would probably examine the sets I am working on and buy the keys
and semi-keys to as many of them as possible. Once those babies are out of
the way
you get a real strong compulsion to finish :-) That would allow me to start
a new area
faster than I could have otherwise. I love starting new stuff! Finishing is
the tough part!
Dale
Harv
"Cliff" <cli...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:v7kcjv8hmjju5inl3...@4ax.com...
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
> If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
> what would you buy?
Gold. Early 20th Century Gold to be specific. The best common date highest
grade $10.00 Indian Eagle I could get for $1000.00 in a PCGS or NGC slab to
be extremely specific..
Your $1000.00 will get you a PCGS or NGC common date MS65 Saint, if you want
one..
I already have one so that's why I'd get the $10.00 Indian Eagle :) ..
By the way, I don't know where you come from, Diamond Jim, but $1000.00 IS a
lot of money to a lot of people, including me..
Here's an interesting bit of text sent to me by a friend.. kind of puts
things in perspective..
Perspective:
If we could shrink the earth's population to a village of
precisely 100 people, with all the existing human ratios remaining the same,
it would look something like the following:
There would be:
57 Asians
21 Europeans
14 from the Western Hemisphere, both north and south
8 Africans
52 would be female
48 would be male
70 would be non-white
30 would be white
70 would be non-Christian
30 would be Christian
89 would be heterosexual
11 would be homosexual
6 people would possess 59% of the entire world's wealth,
and all 6 would be from the United States.
80 would live in substandard housing
70 would be unable to read
50 would suffer from malnutrition
1 would be near death; 1 would be near birth
1 (yes, only 1) would have a college education
1 would own a computer
When one considers our world from such a compressed perspective,
the need for acceptance, understanding and education becomes
glaringly apparent.
The following is also something to ponder...
If you woke up this morning with more health than illness...
you are more blessed than the million who will not survive this
week.
If you have never experienced the danger of battle, the
loneliness of imprisonment, the agony of torture, or the pangs of
starvation.
You are ahead of 500 million people in the world.
If you can attend a church meeting without fear of harassment,
arrest, torture, or death...you are more blessed than three
billion people in the world.
If you have food in the refrigerator, clothes on your back, a
roof overhead and a place to sleep...you are richer than 75% of this
world.
If you have money in the bank, in your wallet, and spare change in a
dish someplace you are among the top 8% of the world's wealthy.
If your parents are still alive and still married ... you are
very rare, even in the United States and Canada.
If you can read this message, you just received a double
blessing in that someone was thinking of you, and furthermore, you are more
blessed than over two billion people in the world that cannot read at all.
Someone once said: What goes around comes around
Work like you don't need the money.
Love like you've never been hurt.
Dance like no-one's watching.
Sing like no-one's listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth.
It's National Friendship Week. Send this to everyone
you consider a FRIEND.
Pass this on, and brighten someone's day. Nothing
will happen if you do not decide to pass it along.
The only thing that will happen, if you DO pass it
on, is that someone might smile because of you.
Harv
Ira Stein
<< I've actual got 2 20$ libertys and a $5 liberty and a 2 1/2 Indian so
I'm good on gold. I'm really hankering for the 55 DDO and I'm finding
a lot on Ebay for good prices but they are all raw and there is no way
I'm going to buy a key coin that isn't in a reputable slab.
Cliff >>
Now actully Cliff, although that coin wasn't on my list of possibles ( I
recommened a VF 1922 No D1c) I do have two in inventory. One is a PCGS AU58
that's $1280 and a PCGS MS-62BN that's more yet. The AU-58 looks the equal of
some non PCGS MS-62 Bns I've seen. Virtually full underlying lustre on a brown
cent..now THAT's unusual in this grade!
Ira Stein
Byron L. Reed
wrote:
>As for the OP's question, I would try to find a nice 1827 O-127 to complete
>my R-5 varities for that year.
>JimP
>(Would also be willing to settle for a O-148 for the same price!)
Maybe, but only the second state, though. :)
BLReed
Remove the "R_E_M_O_V_E" from the email address to reply directly.
Cool things: http://www.byronreed.com/byrons_collections/default.htm
Talk bust coins: http://www.byronreed.com/phpBB2/index.php
crc2074
"Byron L. Reed" <rccR_E_M...@byronreed.com> wrote in message
news:fpaejvg30j68ge2p9...@4ax.com...
Picky, Picky :)
JimP
Harv
"Cliff" <cli...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:v7kcjv8hmjju5inl3...@4ax.com...
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> decide where best to spend that money.
I thought about this some more.. I would still suggest either::
a) The highest grade common date early 20th Century Gold Coin $1000.00 will
get you.. oddly enough, despite its size and beauty, a Saint will cost you
FAR less in Gem grade than will any of the three Indian coins ($2.50, $5.00,
and $10.00).. You will have a big heavy Gold Coin that will not only
continue to appreciate in value, but is beautiful to look at, feels heavy in
your hand, and will impress anyone you show it to. MS65. Gem grade. If you
want an MS65 Indian $2.50, it'll cost you three to five times as much, as
odd as that may seem.
b) ONE Key date coin, the best you can get in a PCGS or NGC slab only,
whether it's a 1909 S-VDB, a 1914-D, a 1955 DD, a 1916-D Dime, a 1932-D or
1932-S Quarter, a 1916 SLQ, a 3-legged 1937-D Buffalo Nickel - whatever..
just ONE $1000.00 Key date coin. Whatever series you prefer. Whichever
turns you on. Me, if they said "Sorry, you can't buy Gold with it", then
it'd be one of the Lincolns or the Dime.. As an investment, they do better
over time than anything else. You are not going to get any kind of Key date
Gold Coin for $1000.00 so forget that. Yeah you could buy Gold American
Eagles but I'd go with the classic stuff instead..
It's your money, so spend it as you wish, of course. Actually for a thousand
bucks, you could buy TWO MS64 Saints..
But it is a cool feeling to hold a single coin in your hand, even if it is
in a slab (and I would not buy ANYTHING I mentioned above that wasn't in a
PCGS or NGC slab), and say to yourself "This is worth $1000.00."
It is probably even cooler to be able to say "This is worth $10,000.00" but
outside of holding a slab at a coin show and handing it back to a dealer, I
have not yet had that experience within the boundaries of my four humble
walls (yet).. :( ..
Harv
Byron L. Reed
>But it is a cool feeling to hold a single coin in your hand, even if it is
>in a slab (and I would not buy ANYTHING I mentioned above that wasn't in a
>PCGS or NGC slab), and say to yourself "This is worth $1000.00."
It's even more cool with small, dime-sized coins.
Michael E. Marotta
> would you buy?<<
Books! Used books at that.
Subscriptions to coin clubs such as John Reich and Seateds.
Back issues of the periodicals of those clubs.
Bruce Remick
>
> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
> key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
> what would you buy?
When you get over 60, you hope you never have to make stressful
decisions like yours. No matter what coin(s) you eventually choose,
you'll probably wish you had the decision to do over a year from now. I
sympathise with your situation and wish you the best as you struggle
with your dilema. : )
I'd save up for one of Ira's 1922 Lincolns but every time I start, some
other coin calls out to me and I have to start over again. I presume
Ira doesn't have a time payment plan for older folks with no heirs.
Bruce
Bruce Remick
Please stop it, Ira. There are others lurking here with weak hearts and
who don't have a $1000 benefactor in the wings. Every time I see your
name with your latest offerings on RCC, my thought shifts to my IRA, and
I can't convince my wife to forego a month's annuity.
Bruce
Bruce Hickmott
>Cliff wrote:
>>
>> Sometime next week I'm coming into an unspecified amount of money but
>> not much more than $1,000 that I can use to buy coins. Now, I have to
>> decide where best to spend that money. Should I buy a mid grade
>> certified 1909-S VDB, a couple of higher graded certified
>> commemoratives (classics), some high grade certified Franklins, or
>> some mid to high grade certified 1932-D & S quarters?
>> What to do, what to do. I don't have a certified Saint yet but they
>> seem common as dirt. I've completed my Kennedy half set (including
>> the matte half). I can't see me buying half cents or large cents or
>> key or semi-key IHC. I'm in a quandry.
>> If you had it to spend (and I realize it's really not a lot of money,
>> what would you buy?
>> Cliff
>
Hmm...I'D buy a couple of proof half dimes. Going only by your postings, YOU
should buy the mid grade 09svdb. I think you'll be happiest with that.
Bruce (Above advice guarenteed worth price paid)
Chrysta Wilson
mer...@torchlake.com says...
You're getting predictable, Mike. I knew what you would say before I even
opened the post. Marotta+$1000 coin money=numislit aplenty! ;o)
Chrysta