Here is an updated version. I incorporated much, but not all, of your input and
added some more of my own. Still open for comments.
Many thanks to the following folks on the net who responded: Al Black, Everett
Assorted Trad Tips
Never trust your life to any one piece, no matter how good it appears.
Throw in a piece occasionally even when you are on easy ground. It wont slow you
Test those holds before cranking on them; unlike the gym, things pop off in the
Practise down climbing whenever you can; this acquired skill is immensely
Put your nuts on different color slings; it helps identify individual pieces.
Mark all your gear with tape, paint, or heat shrink if you want to hang on to it
Make sure your slings for nuts are long enough, about 10 - 12 after tying. A
Rack your micro wedges on one biner, your medium wireds on another, and your
Rack from smallest pro in the front to largest in the back. It makes finding the
When learning, and on steep terrain, remove the racking biner (gate opening up
Once you have developed your eye for sizing, avoid removing the racking biner
Use keylock biners for racking wired nuts, they make removing a piece one-handed
Learn not to drop things! Belive it or not, this is an acquired skill. Losing an
Large hexes and figure-8s echo loudly when dropped everyone at the crag will
Triple up runners and rack them like quickdraws; it is much easier to retrieve
Warn your partner if you arrive at a fixed nut so they wont waste a lot of time
In addition to the usual commands, learn to communicate with your partner
Dont set your pieces too hard or your second will be hating youand life. Rarely
The corollary is dont set your pieces too losely or you will be hating yourself
Seconds who are vertically-impaired (i.e. short) really get peaved at tall
It is not a bad idea for both climbers to carry a nut tool. If you dont, the
Take advantage of natural pro when possible; tied off knobs, threaded slots,
Avoid using small trees and bushes for protection or holds, this kills them.
Do not rappel from large trees by running the rope around them; when the rope is
Only pussies chip holds or modify the rock to meet their pathetic abilities.
Beware things with sharp nasty teeth, stingers, fangs, or talons and plants with
Learn how to properly equalize anchors. Use Yates Screamers on particularly
Learn how to tie a prussik and remove yourself from the belay anchor while
Remember to protect traverses for your second; they are essentially leading the
Dont get dependent on your own rack. A good trad climber should be able to pick
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