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From: "D a v i d  E m r i c h" <emr...@bigfoot.extrastuff.com>
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
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Subject: Re: The Logical Progression of My Tick-Wish-List (was: Dancing with the DNB)
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 21:21:38 GMT


"Melissa" <iamthewallr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:3d5c10fa$1@eCompute.org...

> There were 2 main things that I wanted to work on by doing the DNB:
>
> 1.  Chimney technique
> 2.  Climbing long routes efficiently
>
> For the first, it was sort of the 'learning to swim by getting heaved into
> the deep end' approach.  The only reason why I was able to do it was that
> it was such a walk in the park for my parnter.  I skipped a couple of logical
> steps in proceding this way, so for me, the next logical step is going to
> be to back track and learn a bit of proper technique in a more sane setting.
>  I'm thinking Arch Rock, Cookie Cliff.

One of my favorite short climbs, which also happens to have some exciting
chimneys is Right Side of the Cookie (5.8R).  Despite the short raps shown
on the Supertopo (which Chris is fixing) don't attempt it with only a single 50m
rope.  Based on your next (and earlier) comments, you'd probably prefer to
follow it.

> Maybe after TRing some more wide stuff to some of the glitches worked out,
> I'll try leading some real chimney pitches (not just the odd move or two
> that I've had to manage before.)

Done Church Bowl Chimney (IIRC 5.6)?  It's pretty fun.  I think it's safer than
Right Side of the Cookie too.  I seem to recall it being well protected, which
is a nice bonus for a chimney.

> This weekend I'm going to work more on long and efficient but in situations
> where I'm either doing all of the leading or sharing it.  Today is my b-day
> (had to work that in somehow...)

OK then. Happy Birthday!

David