Message from discussion Bad Anchor Stories
From: "Phil Box" <ddown...@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Bad Anchor Stories
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 21:20:24 GMT
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"Chiloe" <ichi...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> The modal Bad Anchor Story on rec.climbing involves a
> toprope set up by somebody else. But there is another kind
> too, that many climbers could tell.
More the point is the fact that one is sometimes sucked into climbing with
someone who is unable to live up to expectations based on how they spray at
the bottom of the crag. I`ve been there and done that a few times now and am
becoming more cautious of the strangers who I get saddled with sometimes.
I`ll chuck them on a climb that is a few grades below what they reckon they
can handle and then watch them flail on second. I`ll then lower the grades
until they can climb it. Only then can I know what they can really climb and
of course deduct a couple of grades if they have to lead.