Message from discussion
Best use of *ugh* climbing wall
Path: gmdzi!unido!fauern!ira.uka.de!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!lll-winken!decwrl!apple!well!halfdome!bob
From: b...@halfdom.uucp (Bob Pasker)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Best use of *ugh* climbing wall
Message-ID: <420.28064270@halfdom.uucp>
Date: 13 Apr 91 06:27:44 GMT
References: <3041@borg.cs.unc.edu> <1991Apr9.160657.1549@ico.isc.com>
Organization: Systems & Communications Consultant
Lines: 83
In article <1991Apr9.160657.1...@ico.isc.com>, r...@ico.isc.com (Ray Snead) writes:
> Eileen Kupstas writes:
>> Well, guess this is what the group is for; I never would have asked this
>> in rec.backcountry...
>> I have started going to a local climbing wall on and off. I'm not thrilled
>> with the view from the top of the climb BUT I need to stay in some (minimal)
>> shape for climbing in the big outdoors when I get a chance. So, given that
>> my motivation is one of exercise, what should I be emphasizing during my
>> time at the wall? Hard climbs (push my limits), easier climbs with more
>> repetitions on the climb ...
> Having spent quite a bit of time in the rock gym this winter, I have been
> asking myself the same questions.
me too!
> I got off to a bad start a few years ago when the first real rock gym (CATS)
>...
> This winter, a new gym opened in Denver (Paradise), which caters to people
>...
and i climb at city rock in the bay area of california.
> Here are some empirical principles:
>
> 0) Warm up! If you don't, you will injure yourself. Stretch. Do moderate
> routes first. Some should exercise large muscles (jug hauling); work
> into routes that exercise the fingers a little.
yes! perhaps even row or bike for 5-10 minutes to warm up the muscles a bit
before you stretch. just hop on and pedal or row, don't go for speed/distance.
> 1) You want both maximum effort and repetitions for a balanced workout.
> I generally segement the visit into four parts:
> a) Warm UP! This is really the most important part, unless
> you want tendon injuries.
yes again! work on routes you know you could lead w/out a fall. that way
you wont over-do it.
> b) Only when you are ready, try your hardest routes. This is
> when I try 'grudge' climbs that I couldn't do last week,
> and new things at my limit. This is typically the period
> when your fingers take the heat. When they tire, move on.
> c) Now do routes that emphasize more big muscles to give your
> fingers a rest. These are routes that were hard last week,
> you might have them wired, etc. Steep!
i will interchange these. some days my big muscles will be in better
shape than my fingers.
>
> d) Burnout! Pick a (hopefully overhanging) but moderate route.
> Finish yourself off by doing laps: climb up, touch the top,
> climb down to the lowest holds but don't touch the ground,
> repeat until you fall off. Don't give up-- go to failure.
> Now your partner has a go. When s/he falls off: your turn!
> Repeat until it seems absurd.
city rock has a cave. with a big roof onto an overhanging staircase. this
is where i do my burnouts.
> A prediction: indoor gyms will radically increase standards, at every
> level. A day or two in the gym per week, and anyone's climbing will
> improve significantly...
mine has...
but there are also a bunch of people there who do not climb *real* rock.
i was talking with one guy and we were disucssing the beta on a 5.11a.
i asked him about what kind of stuff he was leading and he said, "leading?
like outdoors? oh, i've never done that."
i look at gym climbing as training, not as an end in itself. physical
training as well as mental - it has helped build my confidence and my
technique, not just my muscles. YMMV.
--
- bob pasker
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