510 anasazi shoes
Ken C
Does anyone have experience with them? Do you like them? Thanks.
jojo
comfort. Although I haven't tried it, the x-ray is supposed to be
built on the same last but made of leather rather than synthetic. Giving it
more stretch. Either way you should be happy. good luck
"Ken C" <pix...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hVFT5.562$24.6...@news0.telusplanet.net...
RadE
--
RadE
Life's a beach
gamecat
Downsides:
the cowdura doesn't breath very well, so don't leave them in your climbing
sack between climbs or they will get a very smelly and a bit slimy. (really
nasty)
Size wise I ended up sizing them a half size above my regular shoe size (bit
of bad advice at the shop) Did make them more comfy and they were snug and
climbed well at this size for ages, but after about 8 months if you got hot
feet and they got a bit slimy inside my toes would move a fraction in the
shoe.
But still I wouldn't size them overly tight as the cowdura doesn't stretch
much.
Velcro fastners were very handy.
(Haven't tried the leather equivalent of the anasazi, might be better ? )
Nick
"Ken C" <pix...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hVFT5.562$24.6...@news0.telusplanet.net...
Bas Kelderman
I love my anasazi's.
Bas
"jojo" <XXXoff...@home.com> wrote in message
news:RGIT5.166855$ib7.22...@news1.rdc1.nj.home.com...
Art Mora
> "Bas Kelderman" <da...@dds.nl> wrote:
> Do not size these shoes too tight, they just don't stretch ... at all.
>
> I love my anasazi's.
>
> Bas
I have the laceups and they did stretch enough to make me whish i had
bought them half a size smaller than i did, on the other hand now a
have a confortable pair of shoes for multipitch routes.
Art
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Hardman Knott
"Bas Kelderman" <da...@dds.nl> wrote:
> Do not size these shoes too tight, they just don't stretch ... at all.
Both the Zlipper (Anasazi last and upper)
and the Anasazi lace ups went from brutally
tight to nice and snug in less than a week.
They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than
have a size, but definately noticable.
Hardman Knott
Steven Cherry
> Both the Zlipper (Anasazi last and upper)
> and the Anasazi lace ups went from brutally
> tight to nice and snug in less than a week.
> They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than
> have a size, but definately noticable.
I'm hoping so. I bought the Anasazi velcro at street shoe size,
and they're pretty tight. I'm hoping that, like the Ascent, if
they won't stretch then they'll at least start conforming to the
foot and become more comfortable.
-steven-
--
<ste...@panix.com>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
"A bit" of an accident? "Slightly broken back"? Dude, I cut my
finger slicing a bagel and it's an accident. Do you have to die
die before it's REALLY an accident? -- Geoff Jennings
Ken C
week (payday!). Seems I need to pay careful attention to sizing - expect
less stretch with the material therefore not *overly* tight. By all
accounts they should be better performers than the La Sportiva Cliffs I now
use.
Bas Kelderman
> > They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than
> > have a size, but definately noticable.
>
> I'm hoping so. I bought the Anasazi velcro at street shoe size,
> and they're pretty tight. I'm hoping that, like the Ascent, if
> they won't stretch then they'll at least start conforming to the
> foot and become more comfortable.
The anasazi velcro is made of a different fabric as opposed to the
lace-ups (or so I have been told) which is why the lace-ups stretch
whereas the velcro will not.
I bought my velcros a half size below street shoe size and am now going
to get another pair at street shoe size.
Bas
mr...@my-deja.com
I have both the lace-ups and the velcros. They are made of the same
material, which DOES stretch. My shoes are 1.5 sizes smaller than street
shoe size, and I am even considering sizing down 2 sizes next pair. Yes,
they are painful for a while, but after maybe 6 sessions in the gym,
they are broken in. Granted, though, I don't wear them for more than 1
pitch at a time. These are sport climbing shoes, and to perform, they
are best fitted tight.
I didn't used to think it mattered. But as I climb harder and harder
routes, I am finding precision has become more and more important. And
it depends where you climb. When the footholds are really bad, these are
the shoes I use.
Alex
john R baker
mr...@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> I didn't used to think it mattered. But as I climb harder and harder
> routes, I am finding precision has become more and more important. And
> it depends where you climb. When the footholds are really bad, these are
> the shoes I use.
>
> Alex
Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
jb
Hardman Knott
john R baker <jrb...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
> Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
That would be a giant step backward, since the Zlipper,
Anasazi Velcro, Anazazi Lace-up, and Newton all completely
and utterly blow away the Moccasyms when it comes to
holding on to tiny edges and pockets, ect.
I reserve use of the Moccasyms to posing in the gym
on routes well below my limit, since they are about
as useful on super-thin routes as an over-cooked noodle.
Hardman Knott
john R baker
Hardman Knott wrote:
> john R baker <jrb...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
>
> > Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
>
> That would be a giant step backward, since the Zlipper,
> Anasazi Velcro, Anazazi Lace-up, and Newton all completely
> and utterly blow away the Moccasyms when it comes to
> holding on to tiny edges and pockets, ect.
>
> I reserve use of the Moccasyms to posing in the gym
> on routes well below my limit, since they are about
> as useful on super-thin routes as an over-cooked noodle.
>
> Hardman Knott
Perhaps you need stronger feet.
jb
Hardman Knott
john R baker <jrb...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps you need stronger feet.
Damn! The answer was literally under my nose this whole time!
Imagine how much faster I might have progressed had I learned
this earlier...(leading 12a in 5 months, 1 week in the gym)
Awaiting the flames,
Shilajit T Gangulee
Hardman Knott (hardma...@my-deja.com) wrote:
: Damn! The answer was literally under my nose this whole time!
: Imagine how much faster I might have progressed had I learned
: this earlier...(leading 12a in 5 months, 1 week in the gym)
That's really impressive.
What gym do you climb at? How hard do you climb outside? I know I can
cruise 11's and boulder 4's at one gym in my area, and flail on 9's and
3's at another. Oh, how was the dipsea?
-tico
Hardman Knott
s...@mail2.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) wrote:
> What gym do you climb at?
Class 5, Berkeley Ironworks, and Mission Cliffs.
> How hard do you climb outside?
I don't climb outside.
> I know I
can
> cruise 11's and boulder 4's at one gym in my area, and flail on 9's
and
> 3's at another.
If I were you I would disregard the lower numbers!
>Oh, how was the dipsea?
The Quad Dipsea was going swimmingly;
I had just caught the 9th placed guy on the 3rd leg,
and pretty much had 9th place "in the bag", so to speak.
Suddenly, I suffered a devastating ankle injury.
Being the stubborn sort that I am, I ran the last
ten miles at a severly reduced pace, partly because I had
a twisted notion that a top-ten was still possible,
and partly because I figured that no one would give a
ride to a hitch-hiking-sweaty-bald-guy with no shirt!
I had to settle for 18th.
Three days later (last night) my ankle was still too
sore to climb even the easiest routes.
Shilajit T Gangulee
Hardman Knott (hardma...@my-deja.com) wrote:
: The Quad Dipsea was going swimmingly;
: I had just caught the 9th placed guy on the 3rd leg,
: and pretty much had 9th place "in the bag", so to speak.
: Suddenly, I suffered a devastating ankle injury.
: Being the stubborn sort that I am, I ran the last
: ten miles at a severly reduced pace, partly because I had
: a twisted notion that a top-ten was still possible,
: and partly because I figured that no one would give a
: ride to a hitch-hiking-sweaty-bald-guy with no shirt!
: I had to settle for 18th.
Aha, now i know your real name. But good going, you were just 3 minutes
behind Twietmeyer. You should run Leadville with me this august. C'mon,
it'll be fun.
-tico
mr...@my-deja.com
> Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years
before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way
more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the
lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
Alex
Steven Cherry
>I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years
>before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way
>more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the
>lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took
place in the lifetime of this shoe?
john R baker
mr...@my-deja.com wrote:
> john R baker wrote:
>
> > Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
>
> I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years
> before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way
> more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the
> lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
>
> Alex
Way more precise ? I guess I don't know what you mean by
precise. Mocs seem extremely precise to me. Anasazis are
also precise, but feel dead by comparison. Both fit my feet
like they were custom-made.
I recently bagged a route (my hardest ever) than had some
extreme edging moves (high step onto a dime edge) and some
sections where sensitivity was very important (blind smearing
with feet hidden by a little roof). I was trying to decide between
Mocs and Anasazis. I did the route (with falls) using one shoe,
and then did it again using the other (more falls). I almost wore
one of each. But the Anasazis felt too dead and I needed the
confidence that the extra sensitivity of the Mocs gave me, so I
bought a pair of brand new Mocs (so that the edges were perfect)
and sent the route. So now I'm a real believer in Mocs.
Since the thread was partly about increasing sensitivity by
moving to a new shoe, I think my observation was valid, at
least within my experience: why not go to an even more
sensitive shoe.
jb
Hardman Knott
john R baker <jrb...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
>
> Way more precise ? I guess I don't know what you mean by
> precise. Mocs seem extremely precise to me. Anasazis are
> also precise, but feel dead by comparison. Both fit my feet
> like they were custom-made.
How wide are your feet?
I originally did my hardest routes in a new pair of Moccasyms
1/2 size down from my street shoes.
My feet are "b" width.
These shoes, even before they stretched, were not near as snug
as the shoes based on the Anasazi last.
It seems to me that Moccasyms are better suited to those with
wider feet, and in fact are cut noticably wider, even when brand-new.
>
> I recently bagged a route (my hardest ever) than had some
> extreme edging moves (high step onto a dime edge) and some
> sections where sensitivity was very important (blind smearing
> with feet hidden by a little roof). I was trying to decide between
> Mocs and Anasazis. I did the route (with falls) using one shoe,
> and then did it again using the other (more falls). I almost wore
> one of each. But the Anasazis felt too dead and I needed the
> confidence that the extra sensitivity of the Mocs gave me, so I
> bought a pair of brand new Mocs (so that the edges were perfect)
> and sent the route. So now I'm a real believer in Mocs.
I think much of it boils down to what makes you feel most confident.
I have led a thin, run-out edging route at Mickey's (Thin Line)
in Newtons, Zlippers, Rock Socks, and Moccasyms.
This route is scary enough, but was much more so with the
Moccasyms rolling off the tiny edges.
They certainly *seemed* to make the route much more difficult.
In many cases this could be the difference between a triumphant
repoint and an embarrasing hang-dog session.
Hardman Knott
Hardman Knott
s...@mail2.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) wrote:
>
> You should run Leadville with me this august.
> C'mon, it'll be fun.
No way...I'm starting to think I'm not really cut out for this ultra
stuff. Too much training and sacrifice; 60 mile weeks have noticably
affected my heroic gym-climbing feats, and that is my true passion!
Shilajit T Gangulee
Hardman Knott (hardma...@my-deja.com) wrote:
: No way...I'm starting to think I'm not really cut out for this ultra
: stuff. Too much training and sacrifice; 60 mile weeks have noticably
: affected my heroic gym-climbing feats, and that is my true passion!
Just train like i do: drink a lot, regularly, and get into your head
that you can run forever. then do an 8 hour run while hung over once a
week. It helps to be skinny.
-tico
alex...@gillette.com
> What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took
> place in the lifetime of this shoe?
How about Neil Bentley's Equilibrium, E10 7a? I figure you'd appreciate
that one more than some sport route. Just Do It was done in these shoes
by Marc LeMenestrel (the 3rd ascensionist?), since he climbs in these
only. I believe Jibe Tribout is a 5.10 sponsored guy.
This shoe is actually a very old design. It has been around longer than
I have been climbing (that was 1994), so I don't know when it first came
out. The 5.10 web page makes this claim:
"The Lace-up Anasazi is the most precise climbing shoe on the market and
the best choice for extreme limestone sport climbing. It is a favorite
of top World Cup climbers and has been used to open more of the world's
groundbreaking climbs than any other shoe."
Yes, it is an advertising claim that is very difficult to prove. But I
believe there is some truth to it. The velcro has been one of the most
popular shoes in Europe for years.
Alex
jason liebgott
have you tried any of new boulder problems at Berkeley? Pretty good
stuff. Rowan and Ken are getting pretty sick. I love it.
jason
Steven Cherry
>Steven Cherry asked:
>> What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took
>> place in the lifetime of this shoe?
>How about Neil Bentley's Equilibrium, E10 7a?
Please excuse my ignorance. What was groundbreaking about this first
ascent?
I figure you'd appreciate
>that one more than some sport route. Just Do It was done in these shoes
>by Marc LeMenestrel (the 3rd ascensionist?), since he climbs in these
>only.
> The 5.10 web page makes this claim:
>"The Lace-up Anasazi is the most precise climbing shoe on the market and
>the best choice for extreme limestone sport climbing. It is a favorite
>of top World Cup climbers and has been used to open more of the world's
>groundbreaking climbs than any other shoe."
It's not too surprising if the 5.10 marketing department considers the
third ascent of Just Do It to be a groundbreaking first ascent, but
it's more surprising that you do. Frankly I'm not sure that even the
first ascent of that route was groundbreaking.
-steven-
--
<ste...@panix.com>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
"Robert, if our objective in life is making first ascents, I believe
we will make more of them if we avoid making this one."
-- Lincoln O'Brien to Robert Underhill, northwest (Emperor) ridge
of Mt Robson, summer, 1930.
mr...@my-deja.com
> >> What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took
> >> place in the lifetime of this shoe?
>
> >How about Neil Bentley's Equilibrium, E10 7a?
>
> Please excuse my ignorance. What was groundbreaking about this first
> ascent?
When climbed this past February, Equilibrium was the hardest Gritstone
route to date and a contender for the hardest traditional route, period.
Ben Moon first TR'd the route and graded it 8b+/8c (5.14a/b). On lead,
the route features major groundfall potential. Reading across the
Rockfax grade table, E10 7a checks in at the 5.14c/d border. (I don't
think I'll ever understand the British grading system properly.)
Anyway, this was pretty recent. My real point was that this shoe has
been around a long time, and a lot of top climbers did FA's in them for
many years. For some reason, 5.10 did not sell them much in the US until
recently.
Alex
john R baker
Hardman Knott wrote:
> john R baker <jrb...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
> >
>
> > Way more precise ? I guess I don't know what you mean by
> > precise. Mocs seem extremely precise to me. Anasazis are
> > also precise, but feel dead by comparison. Both fit my feet
> > like they were custom-made.
>
> How wide are your feet?
Wide. Just like all my body parts.
>
> >
> > I recently bagged a route (my hardest ever) than had some
> > extreme edging moves (high step onto a dime edge) and some
> > sections where sensitivity was very important (blind smearing
> > with feet hidden by a little roof). I was trying to decide between
> > Mocs and Anasazis. I did the route (with falls) using one shoe,
> > and then did it again using the other (more falls). I almost wore
> > one of each. But the Anasazis felt too dead and I needed the
> > confidence that the extra sensitivity of the Mocs gave me, so I
> > bought a pair of brand new Mocs (so that the edges were perfect)
> > and sent the route. So now I'm a real believer in Mocs.
>
> I think much of it boils down to what makes you feel most confident.
>
> I have led a thin, run-out edging route at Mickey's (Thin Line)
> in Newtons, Zlippers, Rock Socks, and Moccasyms.
> This route is scary enough, but was much more so with the
> Moccasyms rolling off the tiny edges.
> They certainly *seemed* to make the route much more difficult.
> In many cases this could be the difference between a triumphant
> repoint and an embarrasing hang-dog session.
Well yeah, if a hard route were *nothing*but* thin edges, I might
be tempted to wear Anasazis, but that's no way to judge the over-all
goodness of a shoe.
My shoe quiver has trended steadily toward softer, more sensitive
shoes over the years. I used to wear Futuras which are probably
some kind of high water mark for stiff edging. All the hard-guy
climbers around my pond used to wear them in the early 90s. Mt
Lemmon had the reputation as a very edgy place. Then one day
I had the pleasure of climbing with returning local Bobbi Bensman.
She did a desperate edgy test-piece in the softest shoes made at
that time. And she *walked* the edgy part. I was amazed. I
thought she was just showing off, but noticed that other visiting
top climbers seemed to wear very soft shoes too. They couldn't
all be showing off, so I figured there must be something to it.
So I started a slow drift towards softer shoes and found that I
like them.
jb
Steven Cherry
>Steven Cherry asked:
>> >> What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took
>> >> place in the lifetime of this shoe?
>When climbed this past February, Equilibrium was the hardest Gritstone
>route to date and a contender for the hardest traditional route, period.
>Anyway, this was pretty recent. My real point was that this shoe has
>been around a long time, and a lot of top climbers did FA's in them for
>many years.
And my real point was, there's a difference between an ascent that is
incrementally bigger, bolder, or harder than the previous high-water mark,
on the one hand, and something groundbreaking, on the other.
It's one thing for a corporate marketing department to abuse the English
language in this way; it's their job. When their customers start
mindlessly repeating such drivel, it's, well, sad, and when it happens
on the newsgroup, it's going to be called out.
-steven-
--
<ste...@panix.com>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
The Prow (NH), I think it is 5.11 [if free] A1. It took us 14 hrs!
We better do better if we are going to do Half Dome, otherwise
I may be getting my social security checks mailed to Big Sandy
ledge. -- emmett, gunks.com
mr...@my-deja.com
> And my real point was, there's a difference between an ascent that is
> incrementally bigger, bolder, or harder than the previous high-water
> mark, on the one hand, and something groundbreaking, on the other.
That is a subjective difference. Where do you draw the line? Just
how much harder does a route have to be for you to consider it
groundbreaking? Equilibrium is the first grit E10, so in one sense,
it is a decent example.
> It's one thing for a corporate marketing department to abuse the
> English language in this way; it's their job.
Perhaps you'd like to call this forum something other than a
"newsgroup," since very little news is discussed.
> When their customers start mindlessly repeating such drivel, it's,
> well, sad, and when it happens on the newsgroup, it's going to be
> called out.
Whatever. There was nothing really to "call out" anyway, because I
openly quoted from the 5.10 web site (quotation marks and all).
Returning to the original discussion, implicit in my drivel that you
find so objectionable was that you don't see the top 5.10-sponsored
climbers sending their projects in Moccasyms. For years, the shoes they
have been wearing are the lace-ups or velcro Anasazi's. Sure, companies
would like to encourage their sponsored climbers to do routes and photo
shoots in the latest introductions to the market. But the company also
wants the climbers to create visibility for the brand by sending routes
in their shoes, whatever the model. One can reasonably assume that these
climbers chose these shoes (over the others) because they perform
better. Isn't that why you bought a pair?
Also, for the company to make (what can be construed as) an advertising
claim, one expects that they have some (at least anecdotal) evidence to
support their claim. (Ignore any attempt to define groundbreaking here.)
Granted the shoe companies aren't in the same category as major
corporations that continually file lawsuits against one another to
challenge such claims. But someone put some thought into that statement
before it was released to the public.
Anyway, I am enthusiastic about this shoe, which is why I quoted the
5.10 blurb. I've owned 13? different makes and models of shoe, and I
feel like this will be my shoe of choice for a while.
Steven Cherry
>Whatever. There was nothing really to "call out" anyway, because I
>openly quoted from the 5.10 web site (quotation marks and all).
As an editor it's particularly embarrassing to admit that I completely
blew off the quotation marks, didn't really notice them at all.
My apologies for misreading your post.
-steven-
--
<ste...@panix.com>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Let us dare to read, think, speak, and write. -- John Adams
Hal Murray
> My shoe quiver has trended steadily toward softer, more sensitive
> shoes over the years. I used to wear Futuras which are probably
> some kind of high water mark for stiff edging. All the hard-guy
> climbers around my pond used to wear them in the early 90s. Mt
> Lemmon had the reputation as a very edgy place. Then one day
> I had the pleasure of climbing with returning local Bobbi Bensman.
> She did a desperate edgy test-piece in the softest shoes made at
> that time. And she *walked* the edgy part. I was amazed. I
> thought she was just showing off, but noticed that other visiting
> top climbers seemed to wear very soft shoes too. They couldn't
> all be showing off, so I figured there must be something to it.
> So I started a slow drift towards softer shoes and found that I
> like them.
I can read the words, but I'm having trouble getting the right
picture. How do you do an edgy sequence in soft shoes?
I learned to climb at the Gunks long before anybody had even
thought of sticky shoes. Edging was the name of the game.
My feet and brain still like to edge and will do so given a
chance.
Then I moved west and started doing most of my climbing on
granite. I've learned to smear, or at least do it sometimes.
How do you put your foot on an edging type hold when the shoe
is soft? If it's not steep then you can smear it, but I can't
picture how to do that when things get steep.
What am I missing?
--
These are my opinions, not necessarily my employers. I hate spam.