Gates of Delirium in Yosemite
Bill Wright
Anyone know anything about this route. There is a great photo in the
recent Climbing magazine. I know it is right of Ribbon Falls and goes
to the rim, but does anyone know who put it up and were I could get
more info and, hopefully, a topo?
Thanks for any pointers,
Bill
Jason Liebgott
"Bill Wright" wrote in message ...
> Hi all,
>
> Anyone know anything about this route. There is a great photo in the
> recent Climbing magazine. I know it is right of Ribbon Falls and goes
> to the rim, but does anyone know who put it up and were I could get
> more info and, hopefully, a topo?
from what I've found/read nobody is doing much talking on this one. Maybe if
you were climbing with some of the locals... but others have stated that
most of the typical avenues are closed on getting beta for this route.
if you find anything please let me know.
jason
Chris
YardOnThis
Ribbon Falls area are conspicuously absent from Supertopos. The nice
folks at the yosemite mountain shop said they could tell me where it
is, but then they'd have to kill me.
wwwrigh...@yahoo.com (Bill Wright) wrote in message news:<3ddd39dc.03061...@posting.google.com>...
Steelmnkey
getting the wrong sort of climber on them? Jeezus...what ever happend to the
climbing community?
G.
Chris
Greg
As the cliffs get more crowded climbing seems to be taking on more of the
surfing culture, as in, "If you don't live here don't surf here". It's really
too bad. At least locals don't slash the tires of out-of-state cars parked by El
Cap Meadow (yet).
I wonder what would happen if, based on the photograph and or rumors, someone
sufficiently badass (not me!) did a second "first" ascent of the route or one
following very much the same line. They would then name it and hand out
photocopied topos to every one that passed through Camp 4. I wonder if the real
FAists would then step forward to claim credit?
Speaking of the FAist, who it it? Is that a secret too? Are they perpetrating
this secret bullshit or is it just others?
If people really want to keep a climb secret especially in a place like YV, they
should not name it or rate it. An anonymous climb with no rating and no flashy
name will generate less gossip.
-Greg
Clyde
This shit has been going on for ages. Back when I was at R&I, we had to
deal with irate locals all over the place who didn't want their private
stash (on public lands) talked about. Moabites were particularly bad
(like they don't have enough rock?!) but certain North Carolina,
Arizona, Wyoming, Idaho, California, etc climbers were absurdly
protective of what often were choss piles with a couple of decent
routes. Funny thing is, when an area did get published, the fears of
sudden overcrowding were largely unfounded and 2 years later the crag
was mostly forgotten by the masses.
Climbing community? That died about the time sport climbing took off ;-)
Peter Haan
I don't have the photo, send me one if you can. I suspect however
that it is located on that small buttress at the highest tier of the
falls, and to the left. There is a buttress up there that recently
got some attention finally. There is a bunch of climbing to do up
there still. We knew about it since 1970, but never got up there,
with all the other areas to work on!
Peter Haan
YardOnThis
in the August edition of Climbing magazine , I don't think the route
or the FA can be considered a secret any longer.
I'd love to see topos of this route and the other new routes near
Ribbon Falls on Supertopos, as well as the topos of routes that are
already well known.
Greg <gre...@x.cliffhanger.y.com.z> wrote in message news:<3EEB9B2A...@x.cliffhanger.y.com.z>...
Karl Baba
past year or so. Can't remember when, and don't think Gates was on
there, but a bunch of that new sport stuff was
PEace
Karl
In article <c89cc174.0306...@posting.google.com>, YardOnThis
<pg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
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Lord Slime
> Seeing as there's a full page photo of Sean Jones climbing the route
> in the August edition of Climbing magazine , I don't think the route
> or the FA can be considered a secret any longer.
Eh? Never heard of PhotoShop?
- Lord Slime
Lord Slime
> should not name it or rate it. An anonymous climb with no rating and no flashy
> name will generate less gossip.
Greg, don't fall for it! The climb doesn't exist. It's a rumor started to
generate gossip. Don't worry about it.
- Lord Slime
Peter Haan
Climbing, saw the photo. It is taken later in the season, on a route
on the East Buttress of Ribbon Falls, several hundred feet above the
ground. The route apparently follows one of the zillion open books
that form the buttress as it emerges from the Ribbon Falls portal
itself. Some of these are really gross, though. There is a long
history of aid routes there. I wouldn't be surprised if it used to be
an aid route, like DS dihedrals (Robbins, Bridwell, Schmitz). At any
rate, just another bunch of dihedrals....
best,
Peter Haan
YardOnThis
Sean Jones gets the credit for a large portion of the route
development in the area. According to the Yosemite Mountain Shop, the
photo in question is two years old, so perhaps the "patent" on this
routes is expiring and all of us generic or perhaps geriatric climbers
will now get a shot at them.
Nate B
"Peter Haan"
> The route apparently follows one of the zillion open books
> that form the buttress as it emerges from the Ribbon Falls portal
> itself. Some of these are really gross, though.
Indeed - some of the crappiest rock in the Valley, IMO, and from all reports
I've gotten.
The whole secrecy thing in the Valley is typical, clichish. Most of these
guys have absolutely nothing else going on in their lives. Go figure.
I'll look for the obscure in Eldo - about 10 mins away. I've climbed
everything of quality and recognition. Quite a few years before I can say
that about the Valley. I know Bill's done more. I'm sure he could hit the
right person out there and get any topo he wants, if someone hasn't already
e-mailed it to him as a result of this thread.
- Nate
Karl Baba
danger of the place getting crowded until the Valley becomes an
impossible nightmare.
Hopefully, that should take a long time to happen
Peace
Karl
Greg
Lord Slime wrote:
> Greg, don't fall for it! The climb doesn't exist. It's a rumor started to
> generate gossip. Don't worry about it.
<in monotone voice> This is not the route I'm looking for.....
Bill Wright
> I'll look for the obscure in Eldo - about 10 mins away. I've climbed
> everything of quality and recognition. Quite a few years before I can say
> that about the Valley. I know Bill's done more. I'm sure he could hit the
> right person out there and get any topo he wants, if someone hasn't already
> e-mailed it to him as a result of this thread.
I had to respond to Nate's comment about "Bill's done more." If I've
done more Valley climbing than Nate, it's on the moderate free routes.
I just re-read Nate's report of his Sea of Dreams ascent. Damn! Not
only is that great writing and climbing, but it reaffirms my desire to
have nothing to do with hard aid climbing. Yikes!
My interest in this route was solely about my desire to climb it (I
can't get off the ground on 5.12 and need a rope gun and a power belay
for 5.11), but just a desire to keep up on the happenings out there. I
was just there for a few days and got passed by the Huber brothers
when they broke the speed record on the Zodiac for the first (of
three) times. I'm becoming more of an armchair climber even as I climb
more...
Anyway, I got in contact with the photographer (Shawn Reader) and he
was quite helpful. Sean Jones did indeed put up this route and I've
sent him some email, but no response for far (just sent it today).
The route is 19 pitches long and rated 5.12c (supposedly just for the
first pitch). The next 9 pitches are 5.11/10 cracks and the route can
be rappelled from there via bolt anchors. The next nine pitches to the
rim go at about 5.9.
I think the route was put up just last year. At least it was finished
last year, as it was brought to my attention in researching the
climbing done in Yosemite in 2002.
If I get a topo and permission, I'll post something. A friend was
supposedly going to try it this past weekend, but I haven't heard
anything yet.
I've done one route up there: Golden Bough. This route is an
"adventure route," but the rock is solid, though the climbing is a bit
runout.
Bill
Mad Dog
>I can't get off the ground on 5.12 and need a rope gun and a power belay
>for 5.11
Bill, I can disprove this statement, you ol' sandbagger!