http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
This was the scene ALL DAY. They got up a maximum of 12 feet, before
the belayer would say something to the effect of "your gear sucks,
come on down". At this point they would down-aid, trade places, and
the process would repeat.
These guys continuously harassed each other with advice. For
instance, the belayer, standing where he is in this picture 20 ft.
away told the climber to place the nut in the other direction (ie.
curved side to the right instead of left). How he could see the
correct orientation of the nut placement from that far is beside me.
Notice the two screamers on the bottom two pieces which are no more
than 3 feet off the ground?
BTW, the climber in the pic outweighs the belayer by at least 100 lbs.
Luckily they never made it higher than 12 feet in 4 attempts. The big
guy had 3 pieces (not consecutive) pull while he was standing on them.
The little guy only pulled one piece in 12 feet.
Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.
Crotch
Thanks for sharing. Is that a haul bag on the ground by the belayer?
Crotch Robbins wrote:
> We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
> They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
> crack.
>
> http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
>
LMAO.
Some nice touches I couldn't help notice.
The lead rope flaked 20 feet away from the belayer.
Two nice new haulbags to carry the necessary gear for aiding a 30 ft crack.
The leader is trailing a tag line AND a haul line (like he needs either!).
Must've been from LA. ;^)
Sorry to miss you out there this weekend Crotch. Just didn't feel like
driving over to Indian Cove and figured the socializing would be at a
minimum once it started to rain.
Andy
> Some nice touches I couldn't help notice.
the belayer looks attentive though. I thought he was supposed to be
asleep.
>We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
>They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
>crack.
>http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
>This was the scene ALL DAY. They got up a maximum of 12 feet, before
>the belayer would say something to the effect of "your gear sucks,
>come on down". At this point they would down-aid, trade places, and
>the process would repeat.
Ahhh, I dunno. Maybe it's because I'm a gumby myself these days,
and maybe it's because the heavy one (in the stirrups) looks very
much like me from that distance, and maybe it's because I, too,
had my first day in stirrups once:
http://www.pantherdig.com/splinter/climbing/grandday.txt
...but I don't know if it's that much worth dumping on. Maybe
they never intended to get above 12 feet. Watching someone aid
and then trying it yourself is an interesting experience, but one
that everyone has to go thru once, anyway.
And was that haul bag new? Does it matter? Hey, dudes, lighten
up a little bit.
Now, if they'd needed a helicopter rescue, I could see a need
to dump ...
--
( )_( )
\. ./
_=.=_
" -- Gunks Gumby Local 32
> Ahhh, I dunno. Maybe it's because I'm a gumby myself these days,
> and maybe it's because the heavy one (in the stirrups) looks very
> much like me from that distance, and maybe it's because I, too,
> had my first day in stirrups once:
snip...
http://www.developer360.com/jason-exp2.jpg
...because we've all been there.
j.e. liebgott
let the bidding begin
> We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
> They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
> crack.
>
> http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
>
[...]
> Notice the two screamers on the bottom two pieces which are no more
> than 3 feet off the ground?
[...]
> Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.
You staged that, right? Hilarious.
--
David Kastrup, Kriemhildstr. 15, 44793 Bochum
>
> http://www.developer360.com/jason-exp2.jpg
>
genius.
best of nomination. Both yoav's pic and this one...
They are obviously only learning the fine points of aid
climbing. That sleeping stuff is for advanced students.
-Mike
Can one nominate JPEGs for the best of rec.climbing, too?
But I also respect that they were basically at shit rock (or at least an
accepted gang-roping area) trying to figure out what the heck they were doing
and probably coming to terms with the notion that they had no clue. I'd
hate it if someone secretly took my picture and posted it on the web the
first day I tried to figure it all out.
But then I look at the picture and I'm laughing again.
Jason, you are as ever a friggin' riot. And I'm glad you didn't use my picture
for the comic effect of suckiness because you probably could have.
Melissa
"werner" <ewNOSP...@ixNO2SPAMpres.com.> wrote in message
news:3E653B1B...@ixNO2SPAMpres.com....
> I personally like this picture. Good use of foreground color to
> contrast the monotone background, pleasant use of diagonal lines, and
> there's people... you've gotta love a picture with people in it.
>
> And those people are themselves telling a story. There's planning in
> the far background; there's a sense of searching, a "quest,"
> demonstrated by the climber in the middle ground high on the rock...
> "Where to go?"... "How can I progress?"... It's a classic story of
> struggle... man vs. nature.
>
> Then there's the two main characters. One inspects and broods over his
> creation, a non-optimally placed nut. "Is that?... Wait... Is that
> nut... in there perfect? ... Wait... let me... take... a closer...
> loo-... !!!SWEET MARY MOTHER OF JESUS, PLEASE HOLD.... OOOHHHH GOD,
> pleeease keep that nut there... I swear I'll never kick the dog again."
>
> And the lightweight, standing ready and eager, ready to take his turn at
> "Ohhh Goddd" praying.
>
> The veteran and the greenhorn.
>
> The master and the apprentice.
>
> The about-to-fall-and-break-both-legs,
> and the about-to-be-slingshot-as-if-by-trebuchet-into-the-rock-wall.
>
> Good picture Crotch. I give it 3 and 1/2 stars.
>
> Thanks for sharing. Is that a haul bag on the ground by the belayer?
Not just one, but two brand new haulbags; there's a big one in beige,
and a smaller black get up.
And, yes, we've all been there, but hopefully we already had the
basics of belaying down, and we didn't take ourselves so seriously.
Several times I watched the smaller guy clip in to a high piece before
moving on to it, and thought he might appreciate some friendly advice
about not clipping until the piece is below you. His response "I
already tested it." I never saw the dude bounce more than an inch in
his steps, and most of the testing was done by yanking (wanking?) with
his hand.
A friend has a video of one of the dudes blowing out a piece, but I
haven't seen it yet. Note, none of the pieces blew while "testing".
All blew while they were standing on them.
p.s. When are you headed to the desert?
Crotch
Check out where the belayer is standing! Why bother? If the poor sap
doesn't rip all the gear from the bottom up, the belayer most
certinaly is going for a ride!
Ed
Scott
David Kastrup <d...@gnu.org> wrote in message news:<x5r89m4...@lola.goethe.zz>...
DMT
Soon. We'll be in RR Friday, St. George over the weekend.
First of several trips I hope; will send you a note.
This is just a wild guess but...I don't think they're quick
learners.
Crotch Robbins wrote:
> ...
> Notice the two screamers on the bottom two pieces which are no more
> than 3 feet off the ground?
>
> BTW, the climber in the pic outweighs the belayer by at least 100 lbs.
>
> Luckily they never made it higher than 12 feet in 4 attempts. The big
> guy had 3 pieces (not consecutive) pull while he was standing on them.
> The little guy only pulled one piece in 12 feet.
>
> Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.
>
> Crotch
--
*********************
L. Michael Boos
CH-8001 Zuerich
*********************
to e-mail remove 4 dots from left to right
One problem with this scenario.. you cant tell people anything..
Here is a prime Jtree Example. While climbing Sail Away with some
friends I was waiting for my buddy to pull the rope so I could start
climbing and there were some people climbing the crack off the left
(really fun 5.9) but the belayer was sitting back in the sun about 30
feet from teh base of the route. I mentioned to him that he might be
better off being closer to the base and he snickered that it was too
cold in teh shade and that his partner was not going to fally anyway..
I said ok and he later chimed in with.. this climb is alot harder than
yours anyway..
Needless to say we hurried through the Sail Away and were off like
promdresses to another area..
It is weird that people would not want to learn. I love climbing with
as many different people from the regular partners as possible because
you always learn something new.. funny
I've not been to Indian Cove, but I have to think people would be going
nuts even in an accepted gang-roping area. There has to be a better choice
of routes to learn on than a three-star 5.10 on a Saturday! At least they
were providing some comic relief. I love the massive piles of stuff strewn
everywhere. It looks like these guys are marking the edges of their
territory with it.
I've been doing a bit of reading on self-rescue this winter, and I'll be
practicing at the crag come spring. I don't think I'll be picking a
popular route at an already crowded crag, though. If and when I learn aid
climbing, I'm sure I'll siege a one-pitch route for a couple of days. My
first bivy will probably be 30 feet up a 60 foot route. I'll post first so
people can avoid or come and laugh, as they wish.
mark (Jason, what's the minimum bid for JLE2?)
_____________________
Mark Cato
mdc...@andrew.cmu.edu
<snip>
I hope no one has pictures of me and my partner practicing self rescues with
a secondary TR for safety 10 feet off the ground on one of our trips last
year. *sic* Would be quite embarrassing. *laugh* Having said that (I love
saying that), if they were practicing low to the ground for educational
purposes...shouldn't the belayer at least be at the base of the same climb
as the climber?
BV.
Priceless...
We've all had our moments when we looked like this... and me probably more
recently than most people here. But I think the incredible picture that
Crotch took illustrates, and is further enhanced by Jason, are the following
points:
1. Few of us would stand 30 feet behind our climber (unless we knew there
was no possibility of pretending we could catch him)
2. All the shiny new gear reminds one that absolutely anyone can buy
themselves at least the perception that they are ready for big wall Yosemite
action.
3. The proximity of the SUVs to the crag is almost assuredly one of
theirs... even if not, it's amazingly captured the spirit of the adventure.
Maybe Crotch can sell this as an advertisement to the manufacturer.
4. The screamers ARE hilarious 6 feet off the ground on an A1 crack. They
will almost assuredly reduce the forces of the imminent fall.
5. I have to reiterate point #1. Look how far back he is, it's like he
expects his partner to explode, sending down rockfall and shrapnel... lol
This is one of the best pictures I have seen in a long, long time.
I await the video submission eagerly.
>
>I've not been to Indian Cove, but I have to think people would be
>going
>nuts even in an accepted gang-roping area. There has to be a better
>choice
>of routes to learn on than a three-star 5.10 on a Saturday
That's the only thing about the pic that doesn't seem odd to me. There have
got to be about 500 three star routes in JT. Short wall is like 30 ft. tall
and in a parking lot. Anyone who doesn't know better, will see the scene
for 200 ft away and keep on driving.
It seems to me that (5.10 or harder) routes in Josh without stars (the book
is liberal, giving up to five) are usually disintegrating at some point.
I think that the biggest problem with them practicing there is the potential
trauma that they might cause the innocent bystanders when they have a piece
pull.
I wonder if these guys are buddies w/ the guy who decked at Trashcan because
the copperheads he was placing (like stoppers) pulled?
> Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.
Sweet Jesus, that's the best post ever.
Thanks!
MarkW
Oh boy, please post the video!
Pieces popping under body weight?! Hmm, that climb takes bomber gear but I
guess it is a bit tricky to place.
MarkW
Yup, you just got guided trip of the year award.
Mark
Test? That just gets things stuck. Too hard to clean later.
rich
I went out on a weekend to Billy goat rock which is a fairly good crag
for the limited cragging that exists in the bay area. A couple clowns
were doing aid practice on an 11b with about as many stars as this
area can muster. I tried to explain to them as nicely as I could that
they should use a different route. They would have none of it, and
in fact proceeded to dangle a flimsy ladder from the top, which they
promptly attempted to ascend while flailing wildly about and knocking
all sorts of chunks off of the delicate sandstone rock.
My stomach churned, and I decided to call it a day. On the way out I
mentioned it to the Ranger in hopes that the rock damage aspect would
prompt him to do something. But I guess it was just fair use of
public resource in his eyes.
This one brought tears to my eyes. There are so many things to love
about the picture, I can't decide which I like more. It definitely
documents the all-time record low ratio of leader altitude gained vs.
belayer sport loop.
Thanks for taking the time to share, it'll be my desktop wallpaper for
the
foreseeable future.
-C
You're friggin' kidding, right? This is RIGHT V CRACK, one of the
classic thin cracks of Indian Cove! On a busy Saturday, right in the
middle of the most popular place to climb in the area. Heaven forbid
you get your picture taken.
Maybe my standards have been lowered climbing in Josh so much, but I
don't consider 3 star thin cracks in Josh to be "shit rock." It'd be
the equivalent of someone aiding Stone Groove in the Valley all
Saturday, but I guess you'd be fine with that also...
-C
- Melissa <iamthew...@hotmail.com> kindly replied:
>
> That's the only thing about the pic that doesn't seem odd to me. There
> have got to be about 500 three star routes in JT. Short wall is like 30
> ft. tall and in a parking lot. Anyone who doesn't know better, will see
> the scene for 200 ft away and keep on driving.
> It seems to me that (5.10 or harder) routes in Josh without stars (the
> book is liberal, giving up to five) are usually disintegrating at some
> point. I think that the biggest problem with them practicing there is
> the potential trauma that they might cause the innocent bystanders when
> they have a piece pull.
>
> I wonder if these guys are buddies w/ the guy who decked at Trashcan
> because the copperheads he was placing (like stoppers) pulled?
Thanks for the information, Melissa. I wish there was that sort of
abundance of three-star routes out my way. 30 feet and in a parking lot
sounds unaesthetic even by Pittsburgh standards!
mark (who would still get lost on the approach)
_____________________
Mark Cato
mdc...@andrew.cmu.edu
You can create all the local three-star routes you want! All
it takes for a route to be three-star is for you to write a
guidebook and put "***" next to the name.
-Mike
Wow! The venerable Craig Clarence posts twice to the same thread.
I'm proud to have brought you out of the woodwork!
> This one brought tears to my eyes. There are so many things to love
> about the picture, I can't decide which I like more. It definitely
> documents the all-time record low ratio of leader altitude gained vs.
> belayer sport loop.
I was peering at the high res version today and noticed a funkness
device on the leaders harness; this reminded me that both these clowns
were wearing wall hammers, and there was a rack of pins sitting on the
ground. Had they tried to nail, I would have had to grab the leaders
feet and pull him off the wall.
> Thanks for taking the time to share, it'll be my desktop wallpaper for
> the foreseeable future.
I'll bring a high res version by SRG tomorrow.
Crotch
> We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
> They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
> crack.
What a great contribution! Really funny photo and the thread is
getting better with each post. These guys remind me of a couple of
fellows who were using talkabouts to set up a top rope at The Gorge
(our San Diego filthy dirty wonderful local crag). After endless
hours of working with their TR anchor the colossus on the ground
watched me climb an adjoining route and just as I was pulling a
heinous 5.6 move he trumpeted beta at me.
I love it that climbing truly brings out the best in people.
Crotch, you rule!
Inez
http://www.apkarian.net/aidcorrect.JPG
Crotch Robbins wrote:
> We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
> They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
> crack.
>
> http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
>
> This was the scene ALL DAY. They got up a maximum of 12 feet, before
> the belayer would say something to the effect of "your gear sucks,
> come on down". At this point they would down-aid, trade places, and
> the process would repeat.
>
> These guys continuously harassed each other with advice. For
> instance, the belayer, standing where he is in this picture 20 ft.
> away told the climber to place the nut in the other direction (ie.
> curved side to the right instead of left). How he could see the
> correct orientation of the nut placement from that far is beside me.
>
> Notice the two screamers on the bottom two pieces which are no more
> than 3 feet off the ground?
>
> BTW, the climber in the pic outweighs the belayer by at least 100 lbs.
>
> Luckily they never made it higher than 12 feet in 4 attempts. The big
> guy had 3 pieces (not consecutive) pull while he was standing on them.
> The little guy only pulled one piece in 12 feet.
>
> Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.
>
> Crotch
> We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
> They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
> crack.
>
> http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg
>
More like surreal.
JKVawter
>
> "Tom Cikoski" wrote
>
>> Ahhh, I dunno. Maybe it's because I'm a gumby myself these days,
>> and maybe it's because the heavy one (in the stirrups) looks very
>> much like me from that distance, and maybe it's because I, too,
>> had my first day in stirrups once:
>
> snip...
>
> http://www.developer360.com/jason-exp2.jpg
>
> ...because we've all been there.
>
> j.e. liebgott
>
> let the bidding begin
Ohhhhhhh, Dhuuuude...??? The "Cheap Shit"...??? Can I get a discount if'n ah
brings ma own brew...??? Got this cultured taste (as Rob can attest to...)
fer only the finest a beers, none a that cheap shit fer me, no sireeee...
Ratzzz....
BenignVanilla wrote:
>
<snip>
> Having said that (I love
> saying that), if they were practicing low to the ground for educational
> purposes...shouldn't the belayer at least be at the base of the same climb
> as the climber?
Or any climb, in fact... I mean, in terms of the scale of their
practice, when they get to the real thing, that bloke's belaying from
roughly halfway up the walk-in, isn't he?!!
Though, I've spotted the most serious flaw in the whole setup - the
leader forgot his headtorch. Man, is he going to be sorry.
Vicki
Yer kidding right? What good is a headlamp if he has no portaledge for the
night?
BV.
You know what, you're right. I was just thinking that, while watching
my dog roaming free at the base of an overpopulated crag. But it's OK,
cos I've figgered out their contingency plan.
See, if you recall, all the gear was popping anyhow, so by the time he
gets to his night stance there's going to be knack all between him and
his trusty belayer anyway, right? And the belayer was a wee bit well
back from the base of the crag. So, at this point, the rope is going to
form the hypotenuse (how do you spell that?) of a pretty big triangle.
Kind of like a commando-style zip wire - I think you see where I'm going
with this. So, our hero ties securely into a belay point; fashions a
funky little zip device out of a couple of krabs (oh, that's biners to
you lot) and a bit of *very* thin perlon chord. He makes haste to the
belayer, picks up his very finest overnight gear, complete with
inflatable harem, portaledge and head torch and then, like the true hero
he is, he re-ascends the rope, hand over hand, like a monk..er.. real
man.
I think it could work.
Vicki
>
> What a great contribution! Really funny photo and the thread is
> getting better with each post. These guys remind me of a couple of
> fellows who were using talkabouts to set up a top rope at The Gorge
> (our San Diego filthy dirty wonderful local crag). After endless
> hours of working with their TR anchor the colossus on the ground
> watched me climb an adjoining route and just as I was pulling a
> heinous 5.6 move he trumpeted beta at me.
>
> I love it that climbing truly brings out the best in people.
>
> Crotch, you rule!
>
> Inez
I was out at mission gorge with a buddy a couple years ago and we
wanted to climb the ramp 5.7 and there where a couple guys climbing
it. So we decided to just climb the stairs (5.3 I think, and it really
does earn the route name too) that is right next to it while we
waited. While we where climbing the two guys on the ramp started to
tell us how the route they where on was so much harder then the one we
where climbing, how it was hard to protect etc..etc... Then they did a
simul rap down and told us we probably shouldn't be climbing this
route if we are not experienced climbers.
The whole time I could only think about how big of a loser do you have
to be to be these guys. I thought it was hilarious, I wish I had it on
tape. After they left we climbed the ramp and the whole time we just
couldn't stop laughing. Always better to see the humor in things.
The other day I had a guy ask me how long I have been tradding :) I
had to dig deep into my feeble mind to figure that one out. Took a few
seconds to hit me :)
Sean
> Had they tried to nail, I would have had to grab the leaders
> feet and pull him off the wall.
Seen that, same climb, SOS. Leader got pretty pissed at our suggestion that
nailing was not allowed. Lots of new gear, young kid - said he had been
climbing since I was in diapers and that I should go the f*ck away. He had
this stacked thing going with 3-4 shiny pins whacked into the rock. Pretty
depressing. We told a ranger, who put an end to it. Unfortunately, no fine
was issued.
- Nate
Actually, RIGHT V CRACK is one of my favorite climbs at Indian Cove, I
usually do a few warm-up laps on SAT/SUN mornings before the mobs settle in
for a day of seiging short wall.
MarkW
Well, that was really the best post in quite a while! It keeps me
laughing :-D
Waiting for the hi-res and the VIDEO!!! Pleeeeease!
Kalin.
--
/|\^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^/|\
|O| http://ThinRope.net/ |O|
\|/______________________\|/
Maybe this is a good reason to implement wildlife research-inspired
climber studies? A tranquilizer dart to the ass should be sufficient to
allow GPS tagging of this particular climbing species...
Anna Vi-OW! What waszzzzzzzzzzzz.....
I have another idea. You know how when someone posts about something
that happened at the gym or the crag that made them cringe, and maybe
they tried to be helpful and they just got a bunch of attitude. Those of
us who weren't there may think, well maybe it was a horrendous accident
waiting to happen, or MAYBE the poster was just being sanctimonious pain
in the ass. Come on you all wonder about that, don't you?
Well a picture speaks volumes. So here's my suggestion. Whe you see
people bveing idiots, and the problem lends itsself to pictures, take
one. post the link. Maybe the offending party will see thenselves.
Maybe not. And if not, well at least the rest of us will be entertained.
Maybe it can be a weekly thread.
I think Crotch needs to black out the eyes of the eyes of the offending
parties like they do in medical text books and submit this photo to the
mags. Too mean? I dunno.