SW Oregon climbers say hey!
Steve Haymes
on this forum or are we on life-support? Hi Rat, Andy, Brent, Klooch and
Alex, it's Dwight. I hadn't realized how much I missed this until I reread
some of the good stuff on tradgirl. I wonder what Lord Slime, Brutus, Andy,
Dingus, Galen, Dawn, Eric, Geoff, Inez, Russ, Tim, Steven, Karl, Rex, David,
Batten (oops), Russ, Mad Dog, Nate and everyone else I forgot to name, are
up to? Anyhoo, it's good to be back. Dwight
Michael A. Riches
Dwight...Great to hear from you. The place has been a bit dead for a while
but maybe we can entice some of the old timers back...
Ratzzz...
Brent Ware
> I took a break from usenet for a few years and now I'm back.
That's what happened, *everyone* took a break for a few years! That
explains everything!
-bw
Steve Haymes
went on a 5 year climbing binge to get "healthy" and now I'm back. I've put
up some trad and mixed routes here in the Roseburg area and the scene is
burgeoning. The local crew have put up hundreds of routes here (mostly
sport). There was six cars at the local crag a coupla weeks ago! Good
sandstone in the coastal range and fair dacite in the Cascades.
Michael A. Riches
>-bw
Ya...Everybody but Eugene and his friend "Puppet Sock" (Sorry, I had to read
some of the back posts too, snicker...).
But, "BREAKTIME'S OVER"...everybody back in line, front and center, chop
chop and all that...
Ratzzz...
Klooch Man
Steve Haymes (Dwight) wrote:
> Life happens! I moved from Ca. back to my home state of Oregon, divorced,
> went on a 5 year climbing binge to get "healthy" and now I'm back.
Back as in healthy?
I like rec.climbing for the same reason summits are nice; I can listen
to the wind through the holes in my head. There is a comforting
absence of distraction here.
I started following Supertopo a few months ago after hearing about a
thread on the history of Squamish climbing. If you want to know more
about what happened 30-40 years ago, Don Lauria, Doug Robinson, and a
raft of others will tell you.
I like that you can put pictures over there.
5 years is a long time. Can you tell us more about what you did?
Andy C
Steve Haymes
Ha, that's funny!
> 5 years is a long time. Can you tell us more about what > you did?
Roseburg has a short climbing history and there has been only two local
climbing teams that have made any noteworthy ascents. I made friends with
Greg Orton and Harold Hall, the only local crew putting up climbs. Great
guys, they've spent many hours and dollars maintaining hundreds of climbs.
After climbing their climbs, I figured my niche lay in digging the moss out
of cracks and putting up a few trad lines on the best stone I could find. So
I spent time in the library, talked to local log truck drivers, etc. and hit
the road looking for good rock. The first spot is a bouldering area in an
old-growth grove 20 min out of town. Bear Creek Boulders is a collection of
7 house-sized sandstone and three 30' hand/finger lock cracks.
5.8-5.9-5.11a. The next area I found is Dead Dog Rock. 250' sandstone wall a
eighth of mile long, with half a dozen mungy cracks. I spent many hours
building trail, rapping with a nut tool, cat's paw and a wire brush. The one
classic climb on this is a two/three pitch crack that goes; 1p. a reachy
move to start, gain an easy crack for good jams, lieback a flake and
traverse a slab, 2 bolts 80' 5.6. 2p. stem/smear a tube using pins and small
wires 40' 5.8. 3p. use jugs and jams up a short overhang gain a thin hands
crack on the upper headwall 60' 5.10c/d.
Currently I'm driving up the South Umpqua to develop a "secret spot" that
has 80' crags under an old growth forest (stayin' cool in the summer) and
looking at bigger sub-alpine stuff. The only problem is, I haven't found the
right partner yet. I've got good friends in Greg and Harold, we have
dinners, drink beer and play chess but they've got their thing. I've
scrounged up lots of dicey belay's, even been dropped twice. I should note
that none of my friends are *easy* to get along with (old punkers who've
gone to live in the country). SW Oregon climber say hey!
Michael A. Riches
>Roseburg has a short climbing history and there has been only two local
>climbing teams that have made any noteworthy ascents. I made friends
Coool... never been to Rosenburg (that I know of), but I've seen some very
interesting crags along the coast...
Sounds like you've been busy , anyway.
>...that none of my friends are *easy* to get along with (old punkers who've
>gone to live in the country). SW Oregon climber say hey!...
Climbing's changing...I've even noticed a few red-necks here and there...
Ratzzz...(Maybe even Elvis...???)
Eugene Miya
Michael A. Riches <rock...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>"Steve Haymes" <sdha...@charter.net> writes:
>>> I took a break from usenet for a few years and now I'm back.
>
>>That's what happened, *everyone* took a break for a few years! That
>>explains everything!
>
>some of the back posts too, snicker...).
Sock is over in r.b. This is r.c.
>But, "BREAKTIME'S OVER"...everybody back in line, front and center, chop
>chop and all that...
Yank starter cord on chain saw......
--
Looking for an H-912 (container).
Eugene Miya
>>climbing teams that have made any noteworthy ascents. I made friends
I have been thru Roseburg many times.
In article <QsydnWrGoePYDZbX...@powerusenet.com>,
Michael A. Riches <rock...@comcast.net> wrote:
>Coool... never been to Rosenburg (that I know of), but I've seen some very
>interesting crags along the coast...
I may yet again drive thru Roseburg later this year.
I think it was last year as part of the goflyamerica.org CONUS challenge
that Yee and I did two sort of orbits flying through OR (and a bit of S WA).
Very nice flying.
We missed Roseburg on the first orbit, because Peter wanted to test fly a
Vans RV out of Aurora which burned up time. So we came back last July 4
and overnighted before flying S. We saw the fire works show (quite
impressive watching over a river. We have to get 2 more airports East
of the Cascades and visit Voodoo Donuts in Portland (I have to pick up
Psycho Donuts next week).
Nick Dodge covered a tiny bit East of Roseburg in his guidebooks,
more on the high mtns, and then another guidebook (Falcon?) came out.
Lots of stuff is documented.
Chossey. As they sometimes say.
In some cases.
>>...that none of my friends are *easy* to get along with (old punkers who've
>>gone to live in the country). SW Oregon climber say hey!...
>
>Climbing's changing...I've even noticed a few red-necks here and there...
Lots of red necks. Visit Joshua Tree and Pinnacles if you want to run
into rednecks. Many survivalists (sort of like The Postman movie (Smith
Rock)). An OrSU friend wrote a book about the topic (his PhD thesis was
on the sociology of climbers).
Michael A. Riches
>>read
>>some of the back posts too, snicker...).
>Sock is over in r.b. This is r.c.
Ohhh ya, my bad...
>>But, "BREAKTIME'S OVER"...everybody back in line, front and center, chop
>>chop and all that...
>Yank starter cord on chain saw......
What happens if it don't have a pull cord...???
Ratzzz...(all my toys are plug and play...)
Michael A. Riches
>into rednecks. Many survivalists (sort of like The Postman movie (Smith
>Rock)). An OrSU friend wrote a book about the topic (his PhD thesis was
>on the sociology of climbers).
A real book on the soc. of climbers...??? Bet that'll be a best seller,
'Course just how many climbers are there that can actually read...???
Ratzzz...(If I ever loose a toe I'll be back to base 9...)
Steve Haymes
> necks here and there...
Dhuuude. Have I got some stories. Quite possibly I'm the lead character.
Dwight
Michael A. Riches
>Dwight
Helllll ya, dhuuude...
Guess I better not post to many of my Levi Strausss climbing picts...
Been letting my hair grow fer the last few years, but the ball cap's still
there
and the only reason I quit wearing cowboy boots was because I broke
my ankle and could never get the damn things back on...
Ratzzz...(I guess there are a few of us that got into the game before
red-neck was a bad word...snicker)
Eugene Miya
>>>read
>>>some of the back posts too, snicker...).
>
>>Sock is over in r.b. This is r.c.
>
>Ohhh ya, my bad...
Deep Arnie voice:
"No problemo."
>>>But, "BREAKTIME'S OVER"...everybody back in line, front and center, chop
>>>chop and all that...
>
>>Yank starter cord on chain saw......
>
>What happens if it don't have a pull cord...???
Then you have to cut wood using hand saws or axes.
>Ratzzz...(all my toys are plug and play...)
I've used a wide diversity of toys. Explosives can be fun.
Eugene Miya
>>on the sociology of climbers).
In article <hPGdnd1hXuH7LJHX...@powerusenet.com>,
Michael A. Riches <rock...@comcast.net> wrote:
>A real book on the soc. of climbers...??? Bet that'll be a best seller,
>'Course just how many climbers are there that can actually read...???
It's on panel 7 in r.c. and panel 28 in r.b.
%A Richard Mitchell
%Z OSU
%T The Mountain Experience:
Psychology and Sociology of Adventure
%I Univ. of Chicago Press
%C Chicago, IL
%D 1983
Richard gave me a copy. I remember seeing it in Printer's Inc. in
Palo Alto; not interested in buy it.
It's more oriented toward LA (Angeles Chapter) Sierra Club peak baggers
(Sierra Peaks Section compared to RCS rock climbers) than anyone else.
Richard was one of those guys who got into the sociological concept of
"flow". While it has chapters on the nature of trips (driving) and gear,
I thought it lacked a serious chapter on technique and some of the
"discipline" forced on climbers due to gravity.
I had a DOE business trip to Glen Eden Beach and that gave me a chance to
first meet Richard at a coffee house in Corvallis, and we have stayed in
touch over the years. And he did other projects later in his life
(survivalists). This was how my relationship with the State of OR began.
He just wanted to finish his thesis.
>Ratzzz...(If I ever loose a toe I'll be back to base 9...)
Ah! Herzog....
Steve Haymes
news:YoqdnU_Msc7AWpHX...@powerusenet.com...
> Helllll ya, dhuuude...
> Guess I better not post to many of my Levi Strausss climbing picts...
> Been letting my hair grow fer the last few years, but the ball cap's still
> there
> and the only reason I quit wearing cowboy boots was because I broke
> my ankle and could never get the damn things back on...
>
> Ratzzz...(I guess there are a few of us that got into the game before
> red-neck was a bad word...snicker)
Red necks, white socks and blue ribbon beer. What gun should I protect
my project with?
Dwight
Michael A. Riches
>my project with?
>Dwight
I'd recommend sumtin' big, kinda like the D.E. 50 cal...Stops most anytin'.
'Course if'n ya want ta be a ways away, you could use a Weatherby 500 mag,
eequiped
with the state of the art, new fangled straight from Baghdad, articulated
sniper scope...
Works well in a pinch from across the valley. Claymores scattered in a few
strattigic
locations 'll get those sneaky buzzards that slip in under the radar.
Ratzzz...(Copy...???)
Michael A. Riches
>Then you have to cut wood using hand saws or axes.
Sounds to much like work, thankfully I'm allergic to that kind of
activity...
>>Ratzzz...(all my toys are plug and play...)
>I've used a wide diversity of toys. Explosives can be fun.
After 2 tours in the wilds of the Far East, for our benevolent
Uncle, I'd have to agree...We had an ME-60 hand held machine
gun on the ship that was bigger than I was, at the time, but it was sure fun
to shoot...
Ratzzz...
Eugene Miya
In article <4a0dcee2$1@darkstar>, Eugene Miya <eug...@cse.ucsc.edu> wrote:
>>>Rock)). An OrSU friend wrote a book about the topic (his PhD thesis was
>>>on the sociology of climbers).
>
>In article <hPGdnd1hXuH7LJHX...@powerusenet.com>,
>Michael A. Riches <rock...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>'Course just how many climbers are there that can actually read...???
The answer to that has varied over the years/decades.
In the USA, climbers up to the mid-60s generally tended to be pretty
well read. They tended to pride themselves on this: the Whitakers (Jim
was among the least educated in 1963) Everest and family, Robbins,
the gentlemen climbers from Berkeley to the Harvard Mountain Club were
all sort of like that. "Well read" is the phrase.
Even the emergence of climbing bums, the guys tended to read a lot
(the correct phrase was "what ever was available" so many read about
English language exploits in the Alps, the Himalaya, etc.).
Personal libraries (Chessler's is the best example) might be quite
impressive. Quite over blown phrases appeared in climbing literature
which others (like Sheridan Anderson) poked fun.
But then later as climb bumming got more casual, reading became optional.
Some of this came from the UK, some from other locations, and the US put
its own spin on not reading. SF travel writer John Flinn is one friend
who commented on this to me (one of his colleagues married a college
roommate).
>It's on panel 7 in r.c. and panel 28 in r.b.
>%A Richard Mitchell
...
>%D 1983
Steve Haymes
>Claymores scattered in a few strattigic
> locations 'll get those sneaky buzzards that slip in under the radar.
>
> Ratzzz...(Copy...???)
I don't like too much noise and something that's gonna let 'em live long
enuf so I can slip up close and feel their last breath on my cheek as I
remind them that it was *my* project they was on. 'Sides the weatherby cost
$2+ a pop, that's spendy. Sadly, my "bolt gun" isn't much cheaper. On a side
note, I'm going climbing tomorrow. I can only speculate, cause I don't go
out of my way to find them, but, a coupla coeds want me to take them
climbing. They called up asking what to wear (ahem!) and if it's at all
possible to climb where they can sunbathe. Some celebratory margarita's
afterward? Being one of the few climbers living in a redneck town does have
benefits.
Dwight...(breathe deeply, relax, take an aspirin)
Michael A. Riches
> climb where they can sunbathe. Some celebratory margarita's afterward?
> Being one of the few climbers living in a redneck town does have benefits.
>Dwight...(breathe deeply, relax, take an aspirin)
Uhhhh...I wonder how far it is to Rosenburg...??? ( as the Rat races
to find the map and see if it's really possible to climb(( and such)) all
day,
after driving all night at my age...)
Ratzzz...
Eugene Miya
>>hand saws or axes.
"Michael A. Riches" <rockr...@comcast.net> wrote:
>Sounds to much like work, thankfully I'm allergic to that kind of
>activity...
I occasionally get drafted.
Keeps one grounded.
>>>Ratzzz...(all my toys are plug and play...)
>
>>I've used a wide diversity of toys. Explosives can be fun.
>
>After 2 tours in the wilds of the Far East, for our benevolent
>Uncle, I'd have to agree...We had an ME-60 hand held machine
>gun on the ship that was bigger than I was, at the time, but it was sure fun
>to shoot...
I've tried an M-60. An impressive balance of power, range, and ease of maintenance.
A German MG-42 is a little faster, but slightly larger caliber and slightly more
but not too much maintenance.
Expensive hobby.
I have to get back to the paper on MS's analysis of a smapling of Usenet news groups at the
meeting I'm in.
Michael A. Riches
>I've tried an ME-60. An impressive balance of power, range, and ease of
>maintenance.
M-60's what I meant. The "E" slipped passed my spell check. I think it's a
mouse problem, double clicking again...
>A German MG-42 is a little faster, but slightly larger caliber and slightly
>more
>but not too much maintenance.
Haven't tried one of those yet, but out of the dozen or so real machine guns
I've shot, the Thompson, by far was the coolest. maybe it was because it was
the first, but I can see why all the mobsters fell in love with it.
Definitely don't forget the paperwork, kinda makes fer a shitty job...
Ratzzz...(Gal next door is mowing the lawn and I swear she thinks that
machine was made to shread and trash anything...the last chomp sounded like
a bicycle frame or something..."AND IT DIDN'T STOP"...
She's not all that bad looking, but I haven't seen her hubby in a couple of
weeks...???((could be what was left of him...???)))
Eugene Miya
>>maintenance.
I repeated your E? Weird.
>M-60's what I meant. The "E" slipped passed my spell check. I think it's a
>mouse problem, double clicking again...
Just curious how the taxpayers money is spent.
>>A German MG-42 is a little faster, but slightly larger caliber and slightly
>>more but not too much maintenance.
>
>Haven't tried one of those yet, but out of the dozen or so real machine guns
I've not fired one. I've seen 2-3 owned by white supremicists in action at a range,
tracer is very impressive at night. I can see why 6 of these cut down 6,000 guys at Omaha Beach.
It's something that I can also talk to 10th Mtn. Div (WWII) friends about.
A modern version of which is used by various armies like the Saudi army.
>I've shot, the Thompson, by far was the coolest. maybe it was because it was
A little bit heavy.
>the first, but I can see why all the mobsters fell in love with it.
Movies have an influence. With the subs, I was most accurate with an M-3. I was very
impressed with Uzi and MP-40s. I was very unimpressed with British Stens. I think the
Allies won, because the Axis ran out of ammo.
Expensive hobby. I see an indoor ranger in Springfield right off I5 which you can fire a
Thompson.
>Definitely don't forget the paperwork, kinda makes fer a shitty job...
It's paperwork. If you really want one, you will go through it. The Swiss army's rifle
looks interesting, light, etc. (Str. 90).
>Ratzzz...(Gal next door is mowing the lawn and I swear she thinks that
>machine was made to shread and trash anything...the last chomp sounded like
>a bicycle frame or something..."AND IT DIDN'T STOP"...
>She's not all that bad looking, but I haven't seen her hubby in a couple of
>weeks...???((could be what was left of him...???)))
You mean like, what's that film, Fargo?
Michael A. Riches
>>machine was made to shread and trash anything...the last chomp sounded
>>like
>>a bicycle frame or something..."AND IT DIDN'T STOP"...
>>She's not all that bad looking, but I haven't seen her hubby in a couple
>>of
>>weeks...???((could be what was left of him...???)))
>You mean like, what's that film, Fargo?
Never seen Fargo but I have this coolest fridge magnet that reads
"You remind me of my last husband, except you're not buried in the back
yard..."
Ratzzz...(when I find number 4, I think I'll keep her away from the lawn
mower...)
Steve Haymes
"Michael A. Riches" <rock...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> Never seen Fargo but I have this coolest fridge magnet that reads
> "You remind me of my last husband, except you're not buried in the back
> yard..."
>
> Ratzzz...(when I find number 4, I think I'll keep her away from the lawn
> mower...)
Wood chipper. That's a fun movie, if just for that scene.
Dwight
Michael A. Riches
>Wood chipper. That's a fun movie, if just for that scene.
>Dwight
O.K... so maybe #4 ain't gonna happen...
Ratzzz...(so how long will the wood chipper nightmares last...???)