They are one of the best shoes 5.10 makes.....not however made for comfort. Although I haven't tried it, the x-ray is supposed to be built on the same last but made of leather rather than synthetic. Giving it more stretch. Either way you should be happy. good luck
Had a pair and totally loved them, great feel good for smearing. Downsides: the cowdura doesn't breath very well, so don't leave them in your climbing sack between climbs or they will get a very smelly and a bit slimy. (really nasty)
Size wise I ended up sizing them a half size above my regular shoe size (bit of bad advice at the shop) Did make them more comfy and they were snug and climbed well at this size for ages, but after about 8 months if you got hot feet and they got a bit slimy inside my toes would move a fraction in the shoe. But still I wouldn't size them overly tight as the cowdura doesn't stretch much. Velcro fastners were very handy.
(Haven't tried the leather equivalent of the anasazi, might be better ? )
> They are one of the best shoes 5.10 makes.....not however made for > comfort. Although I haven't tried it, the x-ray is supposed to be > built on the same last but made of leather rather than synthetic. Giving it > more stretch. Either way you should be happy. good luck
> "Ken C" <pix...@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:hVFT5.562$24.69497@news0.telusplanet.net... > > I'm tempted to get this shoe for among other reasons the velcro fasteners. > > Does anyone have experience with them? Do you like them? Thanks.
> "Bas Kelderman" <da...@dds.nl> wrote: > Do not size these shoes too tight, they just don't stretch ... at all.
> I love my anasazi's.
> Bas
I have the laceups and they did stretch enough to make me whish i had bought them half a size smaller than i did, on the other hand now a have a confortable pair of shoes for multipitch routes. Art
In <8vus4d$ik...@nnrp1.deja.com> Hardman Knott <hardmankn...@my-deja.com> writes:
> Both the Zlipper (Anasazi last and upper) > and the Anasazi lace ups went from brutally > tight to nice and snug in less than a week. > They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than > have a size, but definately noticable.
I'm hoping so. I bought the Anasazi velcro at street shoe size, and they're pretty tight. I'm hoping that, like the Ascent, if they won't stretch then they'll at least start conforming to the foot and become more comfortable.
-steven- -- <ste...@panix.com> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= "A bit" of an accident? "Slightly broken back"? Dude, I cut my finger slicing a bagel and it's an accident. Do you have to die die before it's REALLY an accident? -- Geoff Jennings
Thanks for all the beta....I'm going to get a pair soon, as early as this week (payday!). Seems I need to pay careful attention to sizing - expect less stretch with the material therefore not *overly* tight. By all accounts they should be better performers than the La Sportiva Cliffs I now use.
> > They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than > > have a size, but definately noticable.
> I'm hoping so. I bought the Anasazi velcro at street shoe size, > and they're pretty tight. I'm hoping that, like the Ascent, if > they won't stretch then they'll at least start conforming to the > foot and become more comfortable.
The anasazi velcro is made of a different fabric as opposed to the lace-ups (or so I have been told) which is why the lace-ups stretch whereas the velcro will not. I bought my velcros a half size below street shoe size and am now going to get another pair at street shoe size.
Bas Kelderman wrote: > > > They do loosen up a bit. Perhaps a bit less than > > > have a size, but definately noticable.
> > I'm hoping so. I bought the Anasazi velcro at street shoe size, > > and they're pretty tight. I'm hoping that, like the Ascent, if > > they won't stretch then they'll at least start conforming to the > > foot and become more comfortable.
> The anasazi velcro is made of a different fabric as opposed to the > lace-ups (or so I have been told) which is why the lace-ups stretch > whereas the velcro will not. > I bought my velcros a half size below street shoe size and am now > going to get another pair at street shoe size.
I have both the lace-ups and the velcros. They are made of the same material, which DOES stretch. My shoes are 1.5 sizes smaller than street shoe size, and I am even considering sizing down 2 sizes next pair. Yes, they are painful for a while, but after maybe 6 sessions in the gym, they are broken in. Granted, though, I don't wear them for more than 1 pitch at a time. These are sport climbing shoes, and to perform, they are best fitted tight.
I didn't used to think it mattered. But as I climb harder and harder routes, I am finding precision has become more and more important. And it depends where you climb. When the footholds are really bad, these are the shoes I use.
> I didn't used to think it mattered. But as I climb harder and harder > routes, I am finding precision has become more and more important. And > it depends where you climb. When the footholds are really bad, these are > the shoes I use.
That would be a giant step backward, since the Zlipper, Anasazi Velcro, Anazazi Lace-up, and Newton all completely and utterly blow away the Moccasyms when it comes to holding on to tiny edges and pockets, ect.
I reserve use of the Moccasyms to posing in the gym on routes well below my limit, since they are about as useful on super-thin routes as an over-cooked noodle.
Hardman Knott wrote: > john R baker <jrba...@west.raytheon.com> wrote:
> > Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
> That would be a giant step backward, since the Zlipper, > Anasazi Velcro, Anazazi Lace-up, and Newton all completely > and utterly blow away the Moccasyms when it comes to > holding on to tiny edges and pockets, ect.
> I reserve use of the Moccasyms to posing in the gym > on routes well below my limit, since they are about > as useful on super-thin routes as an over-cooked noodle.
Damn! The answer was literally under my nose this whole time! Imagine how much faster I might have progressed had I learned this earlier...(leading 12a in 5 months, 1 week in the gym)
: Damn! The answer was literally under my nose this whole time! : Imagine how much faster I might have progressed had I learned : this earlier...(leading 12a in 5 months, 1 week in the gym)
That's really impressive.
What gym do you climb at? How hard do you climb outside? I know I can cruise 11's and boulder 4's at one gym in my area, and flail on 9's and 3's at another. Oh, how was the dipsea?
s...@mail2.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) wrote:
> What gym do you climb at?
Class 5, Berkeley Ironworks, and Mission Cliffs.
> How hard do you climb outside?
I don't climb outside.
> I know I can > cruise 11's and boulder 4's at one gym in my area, and flail on 9's and > 3's at another.
If I were you I would disregard the lower numbers!
>Oh, how was the dipsea?
The Quad Dipsea was going swimmingly; I had just caught the 9th placed guy on the 3rd leg, and pretty much had 9th place "in the bag", so to speak. Suddenly, I suffered a devastating ankle injury. Being the stubborn sort that I am, I ran the last ten miles at a severly reduced pace, partly because I had a twisted notion that a top-ten was still possible, and partly because I figured that no one would give a ride to a hitch-hiking-sweaty-bald-guy with no shirt! I had to settle for 18th.
Three days later (last night) my ankle was still too sore to climb even the easiest routes.
: The Quad Dipsea was going swimmingly; : I had just caught the 9th placed guy on the 3rd leg, : and pretty much had 9th place "in the bag", so to speak. : Suddenly, I suffered a devastating ankle injury. : Being the stubborn sort that I am, I ran the last : ten miles at a severly reduced pace, partly because I had : a twisted notion that a top-ten was still possible, : and partly because I figured that no one would give a : ride to a hitch-hiking-sweaty-bald-guy with no shirt! : I had to settle for 18th.
Aha, now i know your real name. But good going, you were just 3 minutes behind Twietmeyer. You should run Leadville with me this august. C'mon, it'll be fun.
john R baker wrote: > Then why not take the next step: Moccasyms
I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
In <905umf$80...@nnrp1.deja.com> m...@my-deja.com writes: >I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years >before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way >more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the >lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took place in the lifetime of this shoe?
-steven- -- <ste...@panix.com> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= "A bit" of an accident? "Slightly broken back"? Dude, I cut my finger slicing a bagel and it's an accident. Do you have to die die before it's REALLY an accident? -- Geoff Jennings
> I'm with Hardmann Knott on this one. I climbed in Mocassyms for 4 years > before upgrading. Foot strength isn't the issue. The Anasazi's are way > more precise--more groundbreaking first ascents have been climbed in the > lace-ups than any other shoe, I'd bet. Certainly any other 5.10 shoe.
> Alex
Way more precise ? I guess I don't know what you mean by precise. Mocs seem extremely precise to me. Anasazis are also precise, but feel dead by comparison. Both fit my feet like they were custom-made.
I recently bagged a route (my hardest ever) than had some extreme edging moves (high step onto a dime edge) and some sections where sensitivity was very important (blind smearing with feet hidden by a little roof). I was trying to decide between Mocs and Anasazis. I did the route (with falls) using one shoe, and then did it again using the other (more falls). I almost wore one of each. But the Anasazis felt too dead and I needed the confidence that the extra sensitivity of the Mocs gave me, so I bought a pair of brand new Mocs (so that the edges were perfect) and sent the route. So now I'm a real believer in Mocs.
Since the thread was partly about increasing sensitivity by moving to a new shoe, I think my observation was valid, at least within my experience: why not go to an even more sensitive shoe.
> Way more precise ? I guess I don't know what you mean by > precise. Mocs seem extremely precise to me. Anasazis are > also precise, but feel dead by comparison. Both fit my feet > like they were custom-made.
How wide are your feet?
I originally did my hardest routes in a new pair of Moccasyms 1/2 size down from my street shoes. My feet are "b" width. These shoes, even before they stretched, were not near as snug as the shoes based on the Anasazi last. It seems to me that Moccasyms are better suited to those with wider feet, and in fact are cut noticably wider, even when brand-new.
> I recently bagged a route (my hardest ever) than had some > extreme edging moves (high step onto a dime edge) and some > sections where sensitivity was very important (blind smearing > with feet hidden by a little roof). I was trying to decide between > Mocs and Anasazis. I did the route (with falls) using one shoe, > and then did it again using the other (more falls). I almost wore > one of each. But the Anasazis felt too dead and I needed the > confidence that the extra sensitivity of the Mocs gave me, so I > bought a pair of brand new Mocs (so that the edges were perfect) > and sent the route. So now I'm a real believer in Mocs.
I think much of it boils down to what makes you feel most confident.
I have led a thin, run-out edging route at Mickey's (Thin Line) in Newtons, Zlippers, Rock Socks, and Moccasyms. This route is scary enough, but was much more so with the Moccasyms rolling off the tiny edges. They certainly *seemed* to make the route much more difficult. In many cases this could be the difference between a triumphant repoint and an embarrasing hang-dog session.
s...@mail2.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) wrote:
> You should run Leadville with me this august. > C'mon, it'll be fun.
No way...I'm starting to think I'm not really cut out for this ultra stuff. Too much training and sacrifice; 60 mile weeks have noticably affected my heroic gym-climbing feats, and that is my true passion!
: No way...I'm starting to think I'm not really cut out for this ultra : stuff. Too much training and sacrifice; 60 mile weeks have noticably : affected my heroic gym-climbing feats, and that is my true passion!
Just train like i do: drink a lot, regularly, and get into your head that you can run forever. then do an 8 hour run while hung over once a week. It helps to be skinny.
> What would be an example of groundbreaking first ascent that took > place in the lifetime of this shoe?
How about Neil Bentley's Equilibrium, E10 7a? I figure you'd appreciate that one more than some sport route. Just Do It was done in these shoes by Marc LeMenestrel (the 3rd ascensionist?), since he climbs in these only. I believe Jibe Tribout is a 5.10 sponsored guy.
This shoe is actually a very old design. It has been around longer than I have been climbing (that was 1994), so I don't know when it first came out. The 5.10 web page makes this claim:
"The Lace-up Anasazi is the most precise climbing shoe on the market and the best choice for extreme limestone sport climbing. It is a favorite of top World Cup climbers and has been used to open more of the world's groundbreaking climbs than any other shoe."
Yes, it is an advertising claim that is very difficult to prove. But I believe there is some truth to it. The velcro has been one of the most popular shoes in Europe for years.
