Who was the first American to flash a 13a in America?
Salley Durt
Hardman Knott
thede...@hotmail.com (Salley Durt) wrote:
> Does anyone know who and what route? Er, and if climber wore lycra?
According to Pat Ament's Wizards OF Rock,
Peter Croft made an on-sight flash of Cosmic Debris, 5.13a,
the difficult and overhanging finger crack in Yosemite,
in June of 1987.
No mention of what he was wearing.
Hardman Knott
Shilajit T Gangulee
: thede...@hotmail.com (Salley Durt) wrote:
: > Does anyone know who and what route? Er, and if climber wore lycra?
: According to Pat Ament's Wizards OF Rock,
: Peter Croft made an on-sight flash of Cosmic Debris, 5.13a,
: the difficult and overhanging finger crack in Yosemite,
: in June of 1987.
i thought croft was canadian.
Crag
>
> i thought croft was canadian.
It should have read who was the first Merican to flash 13a to help delineate
between boarders.
--
Cheers,
Crag
Daniel D. Eubank
crack (can't remember the name or year), but I don't think it was a
flash.
CABouldering
Jaybro1584
CABouldering >>
Grand Illusion? ~78?
Always climb the Wide with Pride
Adrian MacNair
at CABoul...@yahoo.com wrote on 11/8/03 9:58 PM:
Didn't Ray Jardin put up the first .13a before he invented the cam?
I'm probably wrong tho...
Salley Durt
> According to Pat Ament's Wizards OF Rock,
> Peter Croft made an on-sight flash of Cosmic Debris, 5.13a,
> the difficult and overhanging finger crack in Yosemite,
> in June of 1987.
>
> No mention of what he was wearing.
>
> Hardman Knott
Cosmic Debris gets 13b, eh? Heard tell Croft's flash was of Van Belle
O Drome (13c) also a crack in the Valley. Oh yeah, key word is flash.
Has Grand Illusion been flashed or has everyone been rehearsing the
wide with pride--even the Canadians.
Crotch Robbins
jaybr...@aol.com (Jaybro1584) wrote:
This thread reminds me that no matter what you do, regardless of how
badass it is, noone will really remember or care in 20 years. Just have
some fun. Should "Hot Flashes" be renamed "Flash in the Pan"?
Russ Walling
thede...@hotmail.com wrote on 11/7/03 1:15 PM:
> Does anyone know who and what route? Er, and if climber wore lycra?
Me..... Double Cross @ Josh. Yes, and it was very tight.
--
"...what are you? Attached to this world?"
Walt Shipley
--
*** http://www.FishProducts.com ***
Bill Wright
> Didn't Ray Jardin put up the first .13a before he invented the cam?
>
> I'm probably wrong tho...
This was my thought as well. Ray Jardine put up the first 5.13 in
Yosemite (the Phoenix - 5.13a) using his secret camming devices. I
don't know the year, but it was the late 70's. Maybe 1979?
Bill
melissa
says...
Wasn't the secret cold chisel device used at the bottom of this one too?
I might be wrong on this too....
Mad Dog
>Salley Durt:
>> Does anyone know who and what route? Er, and if climber wore lycra?
>Me..... Double Cross @ Josh. Yes, and it was very tight.
Had to be tight to make the nads show, eh?
David Kastrup
Not for showing them, for making them useful. For the same reason,
climbing shoes are tight.
--
David Kastrup, Kriemhildstr. 15, 44793 Bochum
Burns
"Bill Wright" <wwwrigh...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3ddd39dc.03111...@posting.google.com...
According to a wild country promo piece: 1977. This pic is hilarious. Mr.
Jardine looks like a member of ZZ Top...
and the crack? Vicious looking.
Burns
Mad Dog
>Bill Wright wrote
>>Ray Jardine put up the first 5.13 in
>>Yosemite (the Phoenix - 5.13a) using his secret camming devices.
>According to a wild country promo piece: 1977. This pic is hilarious. Mr.
>Jardine looks like a member of ZZ Top...
I read that Jardine coined "flash" and to him, the meaning was more like
"redpoint". I have an article that says he'd hangdog a route into submission,
then once he had it wired, he'd return for the flash. These days, I hear people
talking about "flash" as if it means "onsight".
Salley Durt
> "redpoint". I have an article that says he'd hangdog a route into submission,
> then once he had it wired, he'd return for the flash. These days, I hear people
> talking about "flash" as if it means "onsight".
Yeah, I was asking about that hangdog-less kind of flash. When the
question first came up over a round of beers, my position was that
whoever Jo(e) Bad Ass it was had to be late 80's Smith. Those monkeys
really cared about doing wicked hard things first try (no chiseling,
or gnads grabbing allowed). It's a sport climbing kind thing. But my
pub-mates insisted that it had to be one of those Valley guys since
they were cranking 13's before Smith was happening. So it seems that
they were right--since Peter(soloing Astroman seems obvious) Croft
beat 'em to it.