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Good Gym rope

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John Lechmanik

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Apr 4, 2003, 11:51:06 PM4/4/03
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I started leading at the gym recently and the "which rope" delima has gotten
me. I have the following ropes...

1. Elderid 11mm x 50 mm older rope, but it has been stored and unused for
a few years, no damage, no falls

2. Elderid 10.5mm x 60 mm This is a dry rope and about 2 months old. I
use this for outdoor leads, mostly trad, some sport, undamaged, no falls,
no obvious wear.

3. Maxim 9.8 x 60 mm. Another dry rope, also about 2 months old. Unused,
I was saving this for backcountry and alpine routes.

I thought the 11mm rope would be handy. After all it's unused and it gives
me a chance to play with it. But when using it at the gym I noticed that
the thick 11mm was a pain to clip in to the pro quickly. My question is
what do most of you use to lead with in the gym? Would the 9.8 be too small
or just right? Or should I just go with the ole standard 10.5 mm?


--
John

To reply direct, "removeme" from my address


Ryan Pfleger

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Apr 5, 2003, 12:00:16 AM4/5/03
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I rarely lead at the gym, but when I do its with a 10.5 Maxim. Have had no
problems with the way it handles clipping or anything like that, other than
the usual issues of being too pumped to have any coordination at all.

Ryan

"John Lechmanik" <joh...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:_gtja.332089$3D1.179470@sccrnsc01...

A.M.

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Apr 5, 2003, 12:51:53 AM4/5/03
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"John Lechmanik" <joh...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:_gtja.332089$3D1.179470@sccrnsc01...
> I started leading at the gym recently and the "which rope" delima has
gotten
> me. I have the following ropes...
>
> 1. Elderid 11mm x 50 mm older rope, but it has been stored and unused
for
> a few years, no damage, no falls
>
> 2. Elderid 10.5mm x 60 mm This is a dry rope and about 2 months old. I
> use this for outdoor leads, mostly trad, some sport, undamaged, no falls,
> no obvious wear.

Both a little heavy for gym use... all that clipping... a good 9.8 would
serve better....

> 3. Maxim 9.8 x 60 mm. Another dry rope, also about 2 months old.
Unused,
> I was saving this for backcountry and alpine routes.
>
> I thought the 11mm rope would be handy. After all it's unused and it
gives
> me a chance to play with it. But when using it at the gym I noticed that
> the thick 11mm was a pain to clip in to the pro quickly. My question is
> what do most of you use to lead with in the gym? Would the 9.8 be too
small
> or just right? Or should I just go with the ole standard 10.5 mm?

9.8 is perfect. But if you were saving it for backcountry.... it's your
decision eh? My 2 cents.


Jesper Kotten Varn

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Apr 7, 2003, 2:41:28 AM4/7/03
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"John Lechmanik" <joh...@attbi.com> wrote in message news:<_gtja.332089$3D1.179470@sccrnsc01>...

---8<--- SNIP ----

> I thought the 11mm rope would be handy. After all it's unused and it gives
> me a chance to play with it.

Good call, economically. I would go with this choice, and use it to
save money for trips/more hardware for my backcountry trips/whatever.

> But when using it at the gym I noticed that
> the thick 11mm was a pain to clip in to the pro quickly. My question is
> what do most of you use to lead with in the gym?

Well, the thing is - I use a 10.5mm and I just love it. An 11mm rope
is a bit bulky and tend to be somewhat hard to handle. If I had a
choice - economically - to use whatever rope I could, I would probably
go for a rope of about 10.5 if I was leading. And while belaying, if I
could choose, I would like my partner to have a 9.8 - 10 mm rope. :-)
(This would make me feel better leading, and absolutely laughing while
belaying, since I could really move the rope through the system as
fast as I want it to.)

> Would the 9.8 be too small
> or just right? Or should I just go with the ole standard 10.5 mm?

Well, since you already have a rope of about 9.8 mm you might aswell
use that, but since you wanted to save it for backcountry trips,
well... You get the picture. I would go with the rope that "costed the
least" for me to use (the 11mm one), but that is just me...

Kind regards.

/Jesper from Sweden

Andy Gale

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Apr 7, 2003, 1:54:50 PM4/7/03
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John Lechmanik wrote:

> I thought the 11mm rope would be handy. After all it's unused and it gives
> me a chance to play with it. But when using it at the gym I noticed that
> the thick 11mm was a pain to clip in to the pro quickly. My question is
> what do most of you use to lead with in the gym? Would the 9.8 be too small
> or just right? Or should I just go with the ole standard 10.5 mm?

I say use whatever rope you have that is useless for any other purpose.
Does it really matter if you blew the "redpoint" of that red-tape gym
route because the rope was heavy? Save the good ropes for the outdoor
climbing. I use a half-rope that I cut in half because it got
core-shot. It's not good for much else. Might as well use it in the
gym. Also, I don't have to drag around an extra 30meters of rope that
I'm not using in our short gym. I'm on the second half now. The first
half wore out last fall.

Andy

John Lechmanik

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Apr 7, 2003, 8:26:15 PM4/7/03
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Thanks Andy (and all the others that replied)

It looks from what most of the replies say is that the 9.8 isn't too small
for the gym and probably would be a nice rope to use. After all I don't do
that many alpine climbs or backcountry climbs, but I didn't want to drag out
the 10.5 when the time came. But I did get a good price on the 9.8 :-) I
think I may go ahead and use the 9.8 indoors and for the occasional
alpine/backcountry trip, and let the 11mm sit around for top roping and
stuff like that. Sounds like either way I can't lose....


--
John

To reply direct, "removeme" from my address


"Andy Gale" <ag...@scripps.edu> wrote in message
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