Tupungato, Chile/Argentina
Matt McVeigh
the Chilean/Argentine border and have trawled the web looking for
information and photos finding very little. I know that the normal route is
the north ridge (Alpine Grade F). I can find no further information about
other routes on the mountain, but would consider climbing it from the south
also taking in Tupungatito (the volcanic crater and separate subsidiary
peak). I'd prefer to climb it from the Argentine side.
I'd be really grateful if anybody could give me any info on the mountain, or
send me any photos that they have of it (I can only find fairly poor images
on the web) - by e-mail would be good (file size not an issue). Any
personal experience would be great too if you have it. I'd also like to
track down the article on Tupungato and Mercedario in Climbing Magazine #105
(p90) as a back issue doesn't seem to be available. Finally, the titles of
any guides or books that are in print with info on the mountain/routes would
be useful too (I have The Andes 2nd Edition by John Biggar).
Any response to this or e-mail to me would be great. If need be, I can give
my postal address if anybody had access to text they could photocopy. All
help gratefully received! Thanks.
Matt McVeigh
Brian in SLC
You might try: "Wild Winds: Adventures in the Highest Andes"
by Ed Darack.
He doesn't climb Tupungato but travels a bunch in the region and
climbs/attempts Aconcagua, Ojos del Salado, Cerro Pissis, Sajama, and
Llullaillaco. What I take to be a pretty accurate account of what its
like to attempt these peaks (remote, windy, altitude). Also lists
some great references.
Another place to check is the American Alpine Club library.
Fitzgerald's "The Highest Andes a Record of the First Ascent of
Aconcagua and Tupungato in Argentina, and the Exploration of the
Surrounding Valleys" is an account of the FA and pretty fun reading if
a bit antiquated. Cool maps. You can't borrow my copy..har har...
I'll check Climbing 105...
You might try some of the folks signing the summit log at:
http://www.peakware.com/wsl/logs/tupungato.htm
Uhhh...because its there? Just curious...
Brian in SLC
Brian in SLC
> > Fitzgerald's "The Highest Andes a Record of the First Ascent of
> > Aconcagua and Tupungato in Argentina, and the Exploration of the
> > Surrounding Valleys" is an account of the FA and pretty fun reading if
> > a bit antiquated. Cool maps. You can't borrow my copy..har har...
>
> and missing one map... Most of them come in at over £100 and I'm not
> certain enough I'm going to climb it to invest that much in an aged climbing
> text!
Browsed my copy last night. Interesting read. Took them four tries
to bag Tupungato. I believe they approached from Punta de Vacas which
sounds pretty reasonable (same dirt as across the road).
> > I'll check Climbing 105...
>
> Cheers
Summarizing the pertinent info:
Tupungato:
There are at least four main approaches to the mountain.
Chilean approach via Rio Colorado is shortest but access is heavily
restricted (due to hydro electric project).
Three approaches through Argentina. Two are very long with lots of
wild river crossing. One is the same trailhead as for the Polish
Glacier approach for Aconcagua with a serious crossing of the Rio
Mendoza immediately.
Tupungato has a wide assortment of climbing - from the non-technical
North Ridge to the straightforward South Glacier to mixed alpine
routes on the massive and complex East Glacier.
> > You might try some of the folks signing the summit log at:
> > http://www.peakware.com/wsl/logs/tupungato.htm
>
> As we speak... I've already got a bit of help from a guy in Hungary who's
> been there and got the t-shirt.
>
> > Uhhh...because its there? Just curious...
>
> Dunno - good question! I've climbed in the (european) alps a number of
> times and wanna do something bigger (it's around 21,500ft). I don't want to
> go to a mountain that is a guiding fest (e.g. Aconcagua), want to organise
> the thing myself and see few others on the ascent. It needs to be
> technically easy as I only climb to around AD+ and I'm likely to have folk
> less experienced with me (Tupungato is about an F, depending on conditions).
> I fancy South America cos I've never been there. I also have distant rels
> in Buenos Aires I hope to sponge off for a few days! Plus Tupungato sits
> above Mendoza (Mendoza wine region I here you say? - Yup!) which is another
> good reason to go there. And it's got a cool volcano bit (Tupungatito) to
> the south about 100m lower than the summit which I could take in. That's
> about it!
Sounds like a neat gig. Mucho less crowded than across the street,
but, can still take advantage of all that infrastructure. I'd
recommend staying a day or two and day hiking around Puente del Inca
(hot springs are pretty neat-o). We stayed at a very uncrowded ski
lodge and the meals (parrida...yum) were good.
Don't underestimate the river crossings (crux of our trip up the
Vacas/Relinchos approach to the Polish Glacier). I 'bout squeezed the
life out of our mule driver whilst hangin' on for dear life. Amazing
how the mules make short work of the deep and fast rivers.
Mendoza...yeah, "wide belts". Wow, what a place. Plan on at least a
few extra daze there or, maybe a lifetime or two...(besides the wine,
the, ahem, scenery is quite good). Also good for stockin' up on all
the groceries for you trip. Good selection. And, they sell wine in
little boxes, like fruit drinks, even comes with a straw (danger
danger).
Climbing article is 4 pages (p90 to 95). I'll mail you a copy if you
want. Not much additional info over what I've posted above, but, does
have a sketch map of the region and some general info you might find
useful.
Good luck, have fun! You'll have to let us know how it goes...
Brian in SLC
Matt McVeigh
"Brian in SLC" <bead...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:17041073.0301...@posting.google.com...
> "Matt McVeigh" <matt...@virgin.net> wrote in message
news:<b15jbh$o7o$1$8300...@news.demon.co.uk>...
> > > I'll check Climbing 105...
> >
> > Cheers
>
> Summarizing the pertinent info:
>
> Tupungato:
>
> There are at least four main approaches to the mountain.
>
> Chilean approach via Rio Colorado is shortest but access is heavily
> restricted (due to hydro electric project).
>
> Three approaches through Argentina. Two are very long with lots of
> wild river crossing. One is the same trailhead as for the Polish
> Glacier approach for Aconcagua with a serious crossing of the Rio
> Mendoza immediately.
>
> Tupungato has a wide assortment of climbing - from the non-technical
> North Ridge to the straightforward South Glacier to mixed alpine
> routes on the massive and complex East Glacier.
Ah - wild river crossings (I'm renowned for these, although I'm guessing
Scotland ain't nothing compared to properly big rivers) - I like! The south
glacier sounds reasonable to me.
Excellent - why am I not there right this minute...? Does the wine come in
big boxes with straws as well?! I'm planning 2 weeks for the walk in and
climb (to be on the safe side) plus about 3 days each in Mendoza and BA -
hope that'll do the trick.
> Climbing article is 4 pages (p90 to 95). I'll mail you a copy if you
> want. Not much additional info over what I've posted above, but, does
> have a sketch map of the region and some general info you might find
> useful.
That would be most excellent - I'll e-mail you my snail address.
> Good luck, have fun! You'll have to let us know how it goes...
Will do, but since it's around 2 years off don't hold yer breath (I know,
forward planning gone crazy).
> Brian in SLC
Thanks muchly. SLC - where? If you're ever in Scotland I owe you a pint.
Matt
Phil Hayes
I've never climbed it but have done small peaks (such as there are) on the
Chilean side and on the border. A Chilean climbing guide I have has more
detail (1/2 pages) on the Rio Colorado route on the Chilean side which I
could get to you. Its a 10-14 day trip IIRC.
You may already have seen all the Chilean web sites with info - if not try
http://makeashorterlink.com/?Z47421343
for a google on "Tupungato site:cl"
Watch out for permits required to climb in the border regions of Chile -
Argentina, whilst relations are now friendly some paranoia remains.
Tupungato was in the news in late 2000 early 2001 after the remains of an
ex-RAF Lancaster bomber (converted to passengers) was found on the
Argentinian side of the peak after it crashed en-route to Santiago in 1947.
The Andes round there are v. spectacular with the vallies dropping away from
the continental water divide. Have fun.
hope that helps,
Phil
"Matt McVeigh" <matt...@virgin.net> wrote in message
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Matt McVeigh
news:3e37ca51$0$232$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
> Matt,
>
> I've never climbed it but have done small peaks (such as there are) on the
> Chilean side and on the border. A Chilean climbing guide I have has more
> detail (1/2 pages) on the Rio Colorado route on the Chilean side which I
> could get to you. Its a 10-14 day trip IIRC.
That would be extremely useful. I hope to climb the Argentinian side, but am
not ruling anything out. I'll e-mail you my snail address.
> You may already have seen all the Chilean web sites with info - if not try
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?Z47421343
> for a google on "Tupungato site:cl"
I've seen a few, but maybe not all. I'll try that, cheers.
> Watch out for permits required to climb in the border regions of Chile -
> Argentina, whilst relations are now friendly some paranoia remains.
Yup - I've got a guy who's climbed it e-mailing me details on Chilean
permits required (3 he reckons!).
> Tupungato was in the news in late 2000 early 2001 after the remains of an
> ex-RAF Lancaster bomber (converted to passengers) was found on the
> Argentinian side of the peak after it crashed en-route to Santiago in
1947.
>
> The Andes round there are v. spectacular with the vallies dropping away
from
> the continental water divide. Have fun.
>
> hope that helps,
>
> Phil
Thanks very much.
Matt
JR
> by Ed Darack.
>
there... :), but also because Ed is a good guy and he has done a lot of work
for the book.
Regards,
Juha, a wild Finn from Aconcagua
Matt McVeigh
news:b19h7b$hi5$1...@nyytiset.pp.htv.fi...
Indeed he is. He's e-mailed me on topic about somebody he knows going off
to Aconcagua and Tupungato right now who may be able to help me out when he
gets back. A thoroughly 'good egg' (as more slack-jawed Brits than I might
say)! Do you know if his book's still in print? It's listed as unavailable
on amazon.co.uk (admitedly I haven't looked very hard anywhere else) but I'd
like to get hold of a copy.
Matt
amitac...@gmail.com
I was really happy to find your notes on the web. I am planning a Tupungato climb Dec 2013. I would LOVE to chat/e-mail with anyone who can give me more detailed info on the climb, the permits, travel.... etc.
Thanks!!
Mindy