Universal grading scale for all types of climbing
Mr.T
5.11+ route at planet granite set by employee
V0 planet granite boulder problem set by member
5.10+ sport route in the black corridor at red rocks
5.10- Enjoying well protected face routes at owens
5.9+ Red rocks trad route
5.9 Classic Santa Barbara crack problem
5.8+ JT "sporty" face, puckered, looking at 35 ft groundfall
5.8- yosemite face with micro glacier polished holds (!@#%$%)
5.7 sierra classic at the end of 20 hour day
5.6 crack in JTree on windy day, i.e. no feeling in hands
5.5 at altitude with pack on
5.4 at altitude with pack on squeezing through some chimney that your
pack doesn't really fit through
some other modifiers that come to mind:
+1 letter grade - couldn't push out that big #2 in the morning
-2 letter grades - climbing with a vengence after idiot you hooked
with from the bulletin board in JT just made you hold him off for an
hour while he tried to hangdog route
+ 1 letter grades - last two pieces could be called "psychological
pro" at best
+/- 3 number grades - broke up with SO and highly unstable
+6 letter grades - sandbagger friend in navy seals sets you up on
"perfect" route for your abilities, turns out to be perfect
entertainment to watch civilian suffer
-3 letter grades - Hans grows impatient at your ineptitude and begins
to pull you through crux with power belay
Julie
> I've found the following are roughly equivalent, append as neccessary
>
> 5.11+ route at planet granite set by employee
> V0 planet granite boulder problem set by member
> 5.10+ sport route in the black corridor at red rocks
> 5.10- Enjoying well protected face routes at owens
> 5.9+ Red rocks trad route
> 5.9 Classic Santa Barbara crack problem
> 5.8+ JT "sporty" face, puckered, looking at 35 ft groundfall
> 5.8- yosemite face with micro glacier polished holds (!@#%$%)
> 5.7 sierra classic at the end of 20 hour day
> 5.6 crack in JTree on windy day, i.e. no feeling in hands
> 5.5 at altitude with pack on
> 5.4 at altitude with pack on squeezing through some chimney that
> your pack doesn't really fit through
Hmm. That sounds about:
5.8+ pulling a horizontal past a Gunks roof
5.10 with a bolt at your waist in Rumney
5.9 on Whitehorse (NH), with the obligatory 5.7 runout slab finish
JSH
stinkwagen
news:85b7ec96.02100...@posting.google.com...
> some other modifiers that come to mind:
>
> +1 letter grade - couldn't push out that big #2 in the morning
>
> -2 letter grades - climbing with a vengence after idiot you hooked
> with from the bulletin board in JT just made you hold him off for an
> hour while he tried to hangdog route
>
> + 1 letter grades - last two pieces could be called "psychological
> pro" at best
>
> +/- 3 number grades - broke up with SO and highly unstable
>
> +6 letter grades - sandbagger friend in navy seals sets you up on
> "perfect" route for your abilities, turns out to be perfect
> entertainment to watch civilian suffer
>
> -3 letter grades - Hans grows impatient at your ineptitude and begins
> to pull you through crux with power belay
+2 - leading first pitch of trip on "trust your feet" territory
-1 - bolt-o-RAMA!!
+1 - turns out that it wasn't "lead weed".
Guido
Mr. T's list of 5.10 equivalents:
> > 5.11+ route at planet granite set by employee
> > V0 planet granite boulder problem set by member
> > 5.10+ sport route in the black corridor at red rocks
> > 5.10- Enjoying well protected face routes at owens
> > 5.9+ Red rocks trad route
> > 5.9 Classic Santa Barbara crack problem
> > 5.8+ JT "sporty" face, puckered, looking at 35 ft groundfall
> > 5.8- yosemite face with micro glacier polished holds (!@#%$%)
> > 5.7 sierra classic at the end of 20 hour day
> > 5.6 crack in JTree on windy day, i.e. no feeling in hands
> > 5.5 at altitude with pack on
> > 5.4 at altitude with pack on squeezing through some chimney that
> > your pack doesn't really fit through
>
> Hmm. That sounds about:
>
> 5.8+ pulling a horizontal past a Gunks roof
> 5.10 with a bolt at your waist in Rumney
> 5.9 on Whitehorse (NH), with the obligatory 5.7 runout slab finish
Continuing Julie's "Easterner's Guide to 5.10 Equivalents"
5.9 cracks along Barber wall, Cathedral Ledge, NH for a Gunks'er
5.8 Armadillo in October, Mt. Katahdin, ME
5.7 Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon cliff (NH) in winter
5.7 lichen and rock tripe-covered ascent in New England backcountry
5.5-8 rusted quarter-inch bolted routes throughout New England, early 80's
G
Guillaume Dargaud
5.12a at Clear Creek in Boulder Canyon. What a joke, my first 5.12 attempt
and I onsight it ! Must be getting good ! (good thing that the Black Canyon
is here to remind me what a real 5.10 feels like).
--
Guillaume Dargaud
Colorado State University - Dept of Atmospheric Science
http://www.gdargaud.net/
"I climb way too badly to worry about cholesterol..." — Brad B.
Zac Hester
news:vZvo9.8873$7I6....@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...
-2 letter grades - tourist peanut gallery looking up in awe
"...so, _that's_ how you get the rope up there..."
+2 number grades - forgot climbing shoes in _other_ pack
+1 letter grade - your belay insists on having a conversation while you work
out the crux
"...yeah, that looks tough. So, can I crash at your place tonight, my
girlfriend just kicked me out?"
"...dude, can I have half of your sandwich, I forgot my lunch?"
-2 letter grades - your partner finally bought a GriGri
-1 number grade - you took a 20 foot whipper on a #4 stopper last weekend
and lived
Dwight Haymes
> I've found the following are roughly equivalent, append as neccessary
> 5.9 Classic Santa Barbara crack problem
T, anyone?
An additional equivilant, +4 graded on-sight by a toddler with a Bosch.
Dwight
Brutus of Wyde
> I've found the following are roughly equivalent,
> append as neccessary
Ice? Aid? Walls?
Don't forget "Sierra 4th class"
and "Classic Canadian Limestone" [TM]
especially when coupled with "V, 5.9 A2"
Brutus
GREGORY KNESER
: 5.12a at Clear Creek in Boulder Canyon. What a joke, my first 5.12 attempt
: and I onsight it ! Must be getting good ! (good thing that the Black Canyon
: is here to remind me what a real 5.10 feels like).
Did you mean Clear Creek _or_ Boulder Canyon or are you confused on the
geography. I assume it's not the latter.
Greg
Mad Dog
>Ice? Aid? Walls?
>Don't forget "Sierra 4th class"
>and "Classic Canadian Limestone" [TM]
>especially when coupled with "V, 5.9 A2"
This thread and your reply jogged my mind back to one of your earlier classics,
Brutus. A google search using just "Brutus", "5.11" and "different" rounded it
up pronto. It's the real deal:
-----------------------------------
From: Brutus of Wyde (bbin...@ebmud.com)
Subject: Re: You wanted trip reports...
View: Complete Thread (10 articles)
Original Format
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Date: 1995/08/24
> ave...@cs.ubc.ca (Alistair Veitch) writes:
> raw...@aol.com (Rawdomg) writes:
> Bzzzt, wrong! I thought 5.11- meant 5.11a/b, ie, low end of the
> 5.11 range. Likewise 5.11+ means 5.11c/d.
Alistair:
I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing
difficulty, as follows:
5.11a 5.10d 5.11- 5.11b 5.11 5.11c 5.9 squeeze 5.11+
5.10 OW 5.12a 5.11d
Brutus
Mungeclimber
hmmm?
:)
"Mad Dog" <mad6...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:ao1v6...@drn.newsguy.com...
Guillaume Dargaud
>> attempt and I onsight it ! Must be getting good ! (good thing that
>> the Black Canyon is here to remind me what a real 5.10 feels like).
>
> Did you mean Clear Creek _or_ Boulder Canyon or are you confused on
> the geography. I assume it's not the latter.
Yes, I'm confused as I never remember sport routes... Sorry.
--
Guillaume Dargaud
Colorado State University - Dept of Atmospheric Science
http://www.gdargaud.net/
"Of course, the best way to get accurate information on Usenet is to post
something wrong and wait for corrections." — Matthew Austern.