Out drive paint problem

[Will Beone]

Been in this group for a little while with my eyes just above the water line...not much of a writer but a avid reader. I have a I/O on a 22fter. The boat stays in the water (fresh) all summer. The problem that I have is that every year the out drive paint flakes off really bad. I have to strip and repaint every spring. By mid summer the flaking has begun and it looks terrible. I strip the old stuff down to bare metal and then apply a marine primer and let dry several days and then a marine paint and again let dry for several says. I always end up with the same...flaking. Any suggestions on what and how to do things differently so that I do not end up with the same problem.  

[Don W.]

Will,

My boat sits on a hydrahoist, and I haven't had any problems with the paint
flaking. What brand of outdrive do you have?

Don W.

[Will Beone]

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply. I have a OMC out drive. The lake I live on is a small
lake and there is no need to lift the boat out of the water. I keep it tied
to my dock as do most others that live on the lake. I have used NAPA marine
paint that is matched to the color of the outdrive. But I have had no luck
from the paint flaking off during the summer. Any help would be great.

"Don W." <donw...@swbell.net> wrote in message
news:3CADF268...@swbell.net...

[Kenneth Norton]

You want to make sure your paint is for Aluminum outdrives. Using regular
marine paint will react to the aluminum and will not adhere and actually
damage the drive. Make sure the paint you are using is compatable.

"Will Beone" <dogy...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:R3Ar8.13621$SG2.2...@news1.news.adelphia.net...

[Don W.]

Will,

I've successfully used Tempo brand marine paints to repaint the lower
unit on my Mercruiser stern drive. The basic procedure is as follows

Sand to bare aluminum. Do not let set, as bare aluminum oxidizes within
30 min or so in air. Wipe with lacquer thinner to remove hand oils, dust
etc. Immeadiately prime with Zinc Phosphate primer (greenish color).
Let dry, scuff sand with 400-600 grit. Recoat with primer and sand as
necessary to get a smooth paintable surface.

Paint color with a compatible marine paint (best is to use same brand as
the primer), let dry, scuff sand, recoat and scuff sand as necessary. (Do
not sand the last coat.)

Some paints require or suggest a clear coat over the top of the color.
If so, use a compatible clear coat, and put on two coats of clear. Follow
the directions on the can.

Let the final coat dry for at least a week before you run your boat at
speed. Ideally, just sit the boat where the sun can bake the painted
area.

Now lets talk about possible reasons why your having paint adhesion problems.

Guess #1) Incompatible primer, or aluminum not cleaned well before priming.
Make sure you use the correct primer for aluminum, and that your color coat
is compatible with the primer. (Did you clean with lacquer thinner before
priming?)

Guess #2) Problem with brand of paint. Try a different marine brand, and
make sure you use a primer, color, and clear coat from the same manufacturer.

Guess #3) Galvanic corrosion! Is there white corrosion (aluminum oxide) under
the areas where the paint is peeling? Corrosion bubbles? How are your zincs
(sacrificial anodes) holding up?

Thats all I can think of now. Good luck with it.

[Will Beone]

Don W. and Group,

I really have to thank you all for the great help. This group in one
word..."GREAT". Thanks so much for all of the help.

"Don W." <donw...@swbell.net> wrote in message

news:3CB10217...@swbell.net...

[Greg the Bunny]

FWIW:

I use Tempo to touch up, along the lines described (light sand, acetone tack
cloth, prime any -- teensy weensy -- bare metal spots. Spray with same
brand color coat and clear anti-foul) I still have some flaking, but it's
not bad. Boat stays in water 5-7 mos/yr.

Tempo seems to be a good paint.

GtB

<snip>

"Will Beone" <dogy...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:R3Ar8.13621$SG2.2...@news1.news.adelphia.net...

[Peter Keating]

I agree with the other posts about using the proper etch primer. But if you
keep your boat in fresh water and I supose a lake can be classed as such,
then you MUST use MAGNESIUM anodes. ZINC anodes do not work in fresh water
and are worse than useless. H.T.H
Regards. Peter
"Greg the Bunny" <Gr...@hopmail.com> wrote in message
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[Greg the Bunny]

? ? ?

GtB

<snip>

"Peter Keating" <peter....@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
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