Painting fiberglass boat

[PALEONUTS]

We're in the process of buying an older catamaran that looks its age. Would
appreciate suggestions on painting it. Is this a job that we can do or is it
better left to professionals? How long of a project should we expect this to
be? Can we use rollers/brushes or must we use a sprayer?

Thanks,

Sandy

[Capt' Salty]

_______________________________
PALEONUTS wrote in message <19990130065216...@ng-ft1.aol.com>...

Sandy,

How long is a piece of string?

Seriously, you could scuff out the entire hull with a green scrubbie and
throw a coat of paint on her in a day or two or you can go over it with a
fine tooth comb, repair all the blemishes, and either spray <best done by a
pro> or brush <amazing results for the do-it-yourselfer> it and it could
take MONTHS and /or cost BIG $$$$! Any little blemish is only going to look
like a freshly painted blemish with a new layer of paint. It <paint> is so
thin it won't fill in. If less than Bristol is ok with you, the prep can go
rather quickly. Is it time to strip off all the hardware and rigging and
re-bed? Add a bunch of time. How about the ports, hatches and portlights?
I *did* all mine and she looks GREAT, but........I spent alot of time and
$$. there are some good books out there as well as your local boat
yardperson. Even a picture will give him an idea of the time, $$ and such.

Good luck.

Steve Scherrer
S/V Mucho Gusto

[cap...@flash.net]

I've been down this road numerous times and I certainly can see the pros
and cons. Steve is right. The results you will get are in direct
proportion to how you prep the boat. If you take the time to fill and
fair every stress crack or chip, it will take longer but you will get a
better result. Will it look better is you just put new paint over the
existing gelcoat? Yes, it will be very glossy but it won't hide cracks
or other defects. You can get very good results by using the foam roller
and tip technique with a good two part linear polyurethane paint like
Interthane Plus. It has good flow characteristics and dries quickly to a
hard, glossy result. The one part polyurethanes and enamels may be
easier to use, but they are not hard enough and are not as glossy. These
paints are okay for a top stripe or painting the inside of a locker, but
not on a deck. They just don't hold up. For a first time do-it
yourselfer, I recommend Interthane Plus. Awlgrip and Sterling may be
better, but they are more difficult to use and much more expensive. When
Interthane is put on right, it looks like new gelcoat and you will be
pleased with how it looks and lasts. I recommend you check out a book
titled " This Old Boat". It has alot of good advice and is well written.
West Marine sells it. While your there, get a free copy of the Interlux
painting tips guide. Good luck.

Cap

[PJSsails]

Any input on using a product called "poly-glow" instead of painting?
Someone suggested it in the s2 list. Apparently just applied it so no long
term report yet.

TIA

---- PJ

[s...@gis.net]

We've been involved in this situation for 8 years. Steve and Cap have
obviously had many experiences also, and looks as if we are all in agreement.

Its lots of work, you can do it, and the results are proportional to what you
put in. We spent 28 straight days last summer painting Caper (48' Trawler)
and she looks wonderful - at least to us.

We go by the 10 ft. rule. Try to make her look great at 10 ft. If you get
closer, you'll see dings and such. We've painted the boat 3 times and it
looks better and smoother each time. We Roll and Tip after what seems
likeyears of sanding.

One caution, if you are ever going to want a two part, don't put an alkylid
(sp) or enamel, which I guess could be the same thing. We decided we wanted
to switch to either Awlgrip or Interthane. The chemists at Interlux (we use
Interlux Brightside)said no two part over it because it would soften the
Brightside and never dry. So we needed to remove all of what we had on the
boat -- we couldn't do it -- no time.

Our Interlux Brightside lasts about 5 years on the hull and 3 years topsides.
Lasts longer now since we learned to use it. If we'd known 8 years ago what we
know now, we'd have gone with a two part.

Also, don't be afraid to call the paint company -- whoever you decide to use,
and talk with the chemists. They can tell you things that aren't on the
labels and things the sales reps don't tell you.

Pay close attention to the thinning, keep your tools clean, and sometimes if
you order all of the paint, thinner, brushing liquid, etc. you need at once
you can get a discount.

Good luck with it,
Louise

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[ted...@socrates.berkeley.edu]

I would suggest that you get Stirling's excellent brochure on applying
their polyurethane finish. This product can be applied perfectly with a
roller, but there is no shortcut to the procedure. Price the materials
before you decide. Do not bother with one-part finishes of any kind.

You will need to use an antiskid treatment (also covered in the brochure)
when refinishing previously treated surfaces, and be sure that it remains
obvious where to step.

-Ted Crum
Santana 22 "dominatrix"

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