Best Mattress Foam
Walter Alter
far flattens in a couple of months.
Walter
Dennis Pogson
You have to specify the density, and make sure your supplier has foam
suitable for heavy use. Not all of them have the various qualities, and may
try to fob you off with what they happen to have in stock.
Len
We sleep like babies since we changed to a latex-mattress.
It's 20cm's thick in stead of the old 11 so I lowered the support.
It's sold in various stiffnes-variaties. Doesn't flatten like
polyeter.
For our master bed we bought a standard 200x160 latex-mattress, cut
the cover on one side-end, removed the cover, with the help of a mold
(newspapers) we made this standard mattress into a perfect fitting
one. The cutting is easily and precisely done when you use an electric
knife. We stitched the cover back on using a sail-needle.
Regards, Len.
DSK
> Any opinions on what the best mattress foam is? Everything I've tried so
> far flattens in a couple of months.
>
We just got new mattresses, double density. The bottom layer is hi
density latex foam and the upper part is memory foam. Marvelously
comfortable. We've only had them a couple of months, but I'd be very
surprised if they flatten out.
The problem with memory foam is that it's too soft and does not make
pretty settee cushions. The cover is slack tends to look rumpled rather
than taut & ship-shape. However it gives good support when backed by the
heavy foam underneath.
It's amazing, more comfortable than our mattress at home.
Fresh Breezes- Doug King
Steve
you will be using it as just berth or if it will double as a seat. Seat
cushions foam will be denser than bunk foam. If you want a mattress that
will help hold you in place while the boat is under way, get something
softer than what you would want if you spend most of you nights at a marina
or a anchor.
Seat and cockpit cushions are usually only a couple inches thick and should
be firm enough so your tail /nip bone don't penetrate too deeply. (you know
what I mean.) If you have high lee-rails on the edge of your settee, then
their thickness should come up to or slightly above the rail so you won't
cut off circulation in the back of your thighs.
Don't ignore the option to have a softer foam with a firmer foam layer on
top. (or is it the other way around) This should be glued to keep it from
slipping around in the mattress cover.
The guy in the foam store won't be much help in either instance (my
experience). He generally only knows what works on a home bed or seat. And
if he 'thinks' he knows what to use on a boat, he is thinking Harbor/Marina
Queens. Not sea going vessels.
Be prepared to pay more than you expect for good foam. I paid about $200 for
enough foam for my fwd Vee berth. (you pay for the wasted material for odd
shapes.) The store is best suited to cut you foam if you bring in a
cardboard pattern. However, they will generally only cut around your pattern
and will not make an attempt to cut that angle you may want where the
mattress fits to the flare of the hull. Make some allowance for that and cut
that yourself with a serrated bread knife.
I have seen a special mat material that is designed to be under your
mattress for ventilation. It is like a plastic straw mat and I saw it at the
marine supply store. Seemed like a good idea but you would have to reduce
the thickness of your foam by that amount.
The fabric for covering your mattress's is another topic but I prefer to
totally cover all round with fabric so they can breath. If they might get
wet, then put on a plastic bed sheet on that bunk, while under way. Quarter
Berths are always getting wet from the companionway hatch.
There is a supper expensive foam that it totally open cell and will allow
the water to drain all the way through without being absorbed by the foam
material.. For this stuff, be prepared for "Sticker Shock" About double
regular good foam..
--
My experience and opinion, FWIW
--
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Glenn Ashmore
bed at home but it tends to form up around your sides some which makes me
think that it might be a bit hot in the tropics.
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
"DSK" <d...@dontbotherme.com> wrote in message
news:N9Kaf.28533$NJ....@bignews7.bellsouth.net...
DSK
> Have you been South with that memory foam mattress? I love the stuff on my
> bed at home but it tends to form up around your sides some which makes me
> think that it might be a bit hot in the tropics.
>
It may be. We just got it this summer. And while North Carolina is the
South, it isn't the tropics. We'll see. And it may help to turn the
mattress over & sleep on the hi-density side.
DSK
Jeff
> Any opinions on what the best mattress foam is? Everything I've tried so
> far flattens in a couple of months.
>
A bit off-topic, but we got an air mattress, the predecessor to the
"sleep number" mattress that's advertised now. It helps that our cat
takes a standard size mattress, but they can be adapted to many bunks.
We each have our own firmness setting, and the result is almost as
comfortable as our waterbed at home. The pump is actually buried in a
locker in the main cabin, and is only needed about once a season.
Rich Hampel
cubic foot. Upholstery grade usualy starts at about 8lb./cu.ft., the
'heavier' being the more preferred. Even cheaper grades of such foam
can be made to support more weight by glueing (contact cement) a
polypropylene felt (scrim) on the top surface of the foam.
Most large cities have 'fabric districts' that also include foam
distributors .... who will usually precision cut it for you (in a
special band-saw) for a nominal extra charge. You will soon earn that
upholstery grade foam is quite expensive. When you go to these
specialty suppliers look like a tradesman, make up a fake business card
on your computer -- "boat canvass" etc. tell them you are just
'getting started' and have a smalll rush job for a client, and then
politely 'negotiate' for their 'to the trade prices'.
>
krj
new mattresses made with 7" foam and quilted pillow top for my aft
stateroom and forward "V" berth. They are great. Better than the
posturepedic mattress in the house.Contact Handcraft Mattress Company
for detail on how to measure for custom made mattresses.
http://www.hmcwest.com/latex.htm. Be prepared for sticker shock. Full
size $1600, "V" berth $1765.
krj
Gordon Wedman
"Steve" <est...@hctc.com> wrote in message
news:Z8WdnRZHbp7E7_be...@whidbeytel.com...
I think this might be HyperVent. Its a kind of plastic mesh about 3/4"
thick. You are supposed to lay it under your mattress and up the sides
level with the top. The idea is that it allows air circulation which
carries away any condensation. Stuff is expensive.
I talked with some folks who installed it in their Hunter and they said they
still had some condensation on the bunk boards and some spotty mildew.
My approach is to use 1/2" closed cell foam sleeping pads that are sold in
the camping section of you department store.
Very cheap.
On layer underneath the 1/2" medium weight foam that I have placed over my
original V berth cushions and one layer under the cushions next to the wood.
Closed cell foam will not allow water vapour to enter your cushions and will
not allow it to reach the cold wood surface where it can condense.