I've been active on the cruiser's net here in Abaco, and this morning one of
the neighboring boats with a radio and antenna guru aboard called me after
to say that after about a minute of continuous transmission I got faint,
though still very clear. Another station chimed into the conversation to
say they had the same result. The original boat is right next to me, so
distance or atmospheric stuff was not a factor
His opinion was either corrosion in the cable which might have an effect, or
the radio heating up from continuous tx.
As I'm heading back to the states with a pretty big to-do list shortly, for
a month, I could send it off to Uniden for a look.
Wilbur, here, isn't a great fan of this particular radio, citing other
problems which increased over time. Anyone else have this experience with
this or other radios, identified it as something other than the radio, and
have the solution?
My antenna feed for the current installation runs in our bilge, and our
rudder post is currently in need of repacking, sending a constant stream of
water down the bilge/limberholes, where I expect there's at least one
connection. While that and any other connex are professionally done, I
expect some water COULD have penetrated. I'll have a look at that, first,
but would appreciate experienced input.
Thanks, y'all
L8R
Skip, in the Bahamas for another few days before a month ashore
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog
"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand
(Richard Bach)
Ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Bwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe!
>My antenna feed for the current installation runs in our bilge, and our
>rudder post is currently in need of repacking, sending a constant stream of
>water down the bilge/limberholes, where I expect there's at least one
>connection. While that and any other connex are professionally done, I
>expect some water COULD have penetrated. I'll have a look at that, first,
>but would appreciate experienced input.
IMHO the only wiring of any kind that belongs in the bilge is the
circuit for the bilge pump. Everything else will be much happier in
a dry location, especially if there are connectors involved. Just
about all wiring insulation develops pin hole leaks over time and salt
water intrusion will turn the finest copper into green powder in no
time at all.
I am not a big fan of Uniden electronics, preferring ICOM and Standard
for VHF radios. That said, the first step is to eliminate the
feedline and masthead antenna as possible suspects. Since we are
talking about short range, just about any kind of test antenna will
do, even a stub of wire about 18 inches long. Connect a test antenna
right at the radio and see if the problem recurs. If so you've got a
Uniden problem or a 12 volt power problem. You can eliminate power as
an issue with a voltmeter connected near the radio.
It should be noted that I have termed the path for the water which comes
from the rudder post down the Vee in the hull, well above any usual bilge,
as the bilge in this case. Any water which could enter the lazarette area
also flows on this path.
So, it's not a standing water situation, and there was no practical route to
get the antenna from the helm to the arch other than that - and, that's
where it was when we got the boat - so, that's where it is, still. It's a
Shakespeare stick so has their pigtail of whatever length it was, then a
connector to the cable to the helm. If it weren't for that, I'd probably
replace that cable at the same time I'm doing the mast one.
I'll try to find someone with a SWR meter here tomorrow morning before we
head out to our anchorage prior to going into the dock where we'll be
leaving Flying Pig, and give it a whirl.
I also have the little cable and the mast-top antenna which proved the cable
at fault in the original explorations; it will be easy for me to get a boat
buddy to listen while I read some story or something on a remote channel and
see if that cured it. That shortie, BTW, is LMR400, so should be fine for
the test. I don't expect it's got much in the way of SWR issues :{))
As to sagging power, with an 880AH bank, I doubt that's a problem, BICBW
:{)) That said, this radio has, regardless of source, often given a "low
battery" display long before I'd have expected it in terms of the "ambient"
(under load) voltage, and without transmission, so perhaps that's a radio
issue...
L8R
Skip
>Hi, y'all,
>
>I've been active on the cruiser's net here in Abaco, and this morning one of
>the neighboring boats with a radio and antenna guru aboard called me after
>to say that after about a minute of continuous transmission I got faint,
>though still very clear. Another station chimed into the conversation to
>say they had the same result. The original boat is right next to me, so
>distance or atmospheric stuff was not a factor
If the volume drops, but the signal remains clear ("full quieting"),
then the problem is in the radio - in the microphone amplifier or
modulator. An antenna or coax problem would result in reduced signal
strength, which would cause the received signal to become noisy, but
would not affect the volume.
>My antenna feed for the current installation runs in our bilge, and our
>rudder post is currently in need of repacking, sending a constant stream of
>water down the bilge/limberholes, where I expect there's at least one
>connection. While that and any other connex are professionally done, I
>expect some water COULD have penetrated. I'll have a look at that, first,
>but would appreciate experienced input.
As another poster said, running cables in the bilge is a Seriously Bad
Idea. Although the reported problem doesn't implicate the cable, I'd
still like to get the cable out of the bilge, and well clear of any
possibility of continuous contact with water.
--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca
>I'll try to find someone with a SWR meter here tomorrow morning before we
>head out to our anchorage prior to going into the dock where we'll be
>leaving Flying Pig, and give it a whirl.
>
One of the quirks of waterlogged coax is that it can exhibit a perfect
1:1 SWR ratio while transmitting little or no power because the signal
loss is so high that nothing gets reflected back to the SWR meter.
>I also have the little cable and the mast-top antenna which proved the cable
>at fault in the original explorations; it will be easy for me to get a boat
>buddy to listen while I read some story or something on a remote channel and
>see if that cured it. That shortie, BTW, is LMR400, so should be fine for
>the test. I don't expect it's got much in the way of SWR issues :{))
>
OK
>As to sagging power, with an 880AH bank, I doubt that's a problem,
Agreed but you could have a bad connection which is heating up under
load.
What Wayne said...
From what I've seen of "professional" work (unless you did it yourself and
know), it would be worth checking.
Accurate SWR measurements also require clear dry conditions. An
overcast day will affect the readings.
> Agreed but you could have a bad connection which is heating up under
> load.
>
BINGO! They use one of those crap, 'slow burn' fuses. They heat up and the
extra impedance reduces the voltage. Get rid of it and put a higher amperage
rated, fast burn fuse in - end of problem.
Wilbur Hubbard
Probably a Ham's old wives' tale. Your average VSWR meter is not very
accurate, although still quite useful. This leads to all sorts of BS.
The device I use cost more than my boat..
Do you have a rational explanation then?
>>>> Accurate SWR measurements also require clear dry conditions. An
>>>> overcast day will affect the readings.
>>>
>>> Probably a Ham's old wives' tale. Your average VSWR meter is not very
>>> accurate, although still quite useful. This leads to all sorts of BS.
>>> The device I use cost more than my boat..
>>
>> Nope, not an old wives tale at all.
>>
>
>Do you have a rational explanation then?
I think the dog is peeing on the fire hydrant in an attempt at humor.
If not he's barking up the wrong tree.
I think you mean "pissing into the wind"
Work out the _magnitude_ of the change in electrical length of the
antenna due to water vapour for yourself.
http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/general_physics/2_5/2_5_7.html
Total loss: an often heard squawk about rubber duckies.
But it is not all that easy to maintain a 50 ohm impedance AND soak up
most of the transmit power with salt water in a coax - so a SWR meter
has merit IF and only IF it is suited to the frequency band in use. Most
hams use swr tests under 30 MHz.
Brian W
>it is not all that easy to maintain a 50 ohm impedance AND soak up
>most of the transmit power with salt water in a coax
If the coax is soaking most of the transmit power it doesn't really
matter what impeadance it is. An SWR meter will still show no
reflected power, hence a 1:1 ratio.
BullShit.... Wilbur, you need to stick to stuff you know about....
as Peter Bennett pointed out, if the volume at the receiver dropped, but
the background noise didn't change, then the problem is in the
Modulating Deviation, not the Power Output.... This is FM not AM or
SSB.... In FM, once you exceed 12 db of Receiver Quieting the
Background Noise, changes are hardly perceptible, and in FM, the volume
produced in the receiver is directly proportional to the Modulation
Deviation of the Transmitter, until it exceeds the bandwidth of the
Receiver.
--
Bruce in alaska
add <path> after <fast> to reply
Bullshit..... I don't know where you got your learning, but you should
go back and ask for a REFUND...because you are talking thru your HAT....
I have been in the business for 40+ Years, and my Bird Wattmeter reads
the same at VHF Frequencies, in the Fog, or under then Baking Sun....
>
>
> What Wayne said...
>
> From what I've seen of "professional" work (unless you did it yourself and
> know), it would be worth checking.
I think this whole discussion ,is just about as funny a thread ,as I
have read, in months. If you don't have the right tools, and know what
you are doing, you just "Pissing into the Wind"...
Yes, there are a few "Professionals" around who don't have Clue One, and
there are some that can't afford to buy the "Correct Tools" to do the
job.
If you want a real Marine Radioman, you need to pay for his Knowledge,
Service, and his Test Equipment.... or you can stumble around and learn
it yourself, after much Trial and Error.....
SaltyDog isn't even close to being a REAL Marine Radioman..... and his
attempt to sidetrack the discussion, by introducing a Trivial, and for
all Practical Purposes, irrelevant factor into the thread, is so silly
as to show a lack of intelligence in the field.
Oh well, folks can believe what they will, but it doesn't change the
FACTS... and the issues at hand.... Wilbur, Well we all know about
Wilbur... Enough said on that front....
>Boy, somebody sure feels threatened.
I don't think you should take it personally. "Bruce in Alaska" has
more real world electronic experience, by far, than anyone else in
this group that I know of. I've been FCC licensed in one capacity or
another since 1957 and would defer to his judgement on just about
anything.
Bruce should give his opinion on the 214 versus the other cable
recently discussed. And whether mil spec means anything.
That's been questioned too, and I'm a bit confused.
Which is ok. Lucky for me I don't have a radio.
--Vic
It's about the same magnitude as shaving 2 thou off a 3ft. dipole, at
most, unless I made a mistake doing it in my head.. Besides, shouldn't
you tune for typical conditions not for Antarctica.
This link I came across might be of interest to some.
http://www.mike-willis.com/Tutorial/refraction.htm
You don't read too well, dude. Skippy said the volume of his 'transmission'
as heard by other listeners in nearby boats decreased noticeably after about
a minute.
So the problem is with Skippy's transmitter and not his receiver. If the
fuse heats up and the voltage drops and the "low voltage" indicator flashes
in the readout as Skippy indicated then that should tell you something. Duh!
Wilbur Hubbard
WIMP!
it will be easy for me to get a boat
> buddy to listen while I read some story or something on a remote channel
Are you sure someone didn't just doze off last time you tried?
Well, it would seem from all the previous posts that there is some
controversy about the recommended RF Coax for VHF Marine Installations
on various Vessel type.... Hmmmm... Well the answers are fairly
straight forward. It really depends on the installation. Small coax,
RG58 types, are alright for runs less than 10 Ft. For runs up 100Ft, RG8
Types Should be used. RG213 is better than RG8 or RG8 Foam Core Types,
due to Wx survivability, and Water Intrusion. The Price Difference
between RG213 and RG214, is usually NOT a cost effective for a NORMAL
Marine Installation, especially on a non-Commercial Vessels, where
budgets are tight. For Military Installations RG214 is the MINIMUM. On
commercial vessels up thru the 80's, RG213 was the standard, for runs
under 100 Ft. Then the newer coax types became available, like Belden
9913 & 9914. These were touted as the Poor Man's Heliax, and looking at
the Specs back then, they were. They are iffy for Marine Use, mostly
because of Bending Radius Specs, AND 9913 is a Hollow Core Type, so any
water intrusion issues ruins the cable. The LMR Stuff around NOW is
similar to the Beldon stuff, and has the same issues in that some is
Hollow Core and it has limitations in Bending Radiuses. For Runs longer
than 100 Ft. Heliax was the only thing used, in the Old Days. Modern
replacements have come along in the 80's and 90's that are better on
Price with similar Specs. In all this the Installation is the CRITICAL
Factor, NOT the coax type used. Water Tight Fittings and Connectors,
and getting the connectors INSTALLED CORRECTLY, is far more important
than 213 vs 214 issues. I kind of doubt that many of the folks that read
this Group even know how to install a PL-259 correctly. If you can do it
in less than three minutes, you don't have a clue. 99% of Vhf Antenna
System failures are do to installation issues, or CHEAP Antennas.
If your paying someone to look at you stuff, and he brings anything
aboard to check the VHF Antennas other than a Bird Wattmeter with the
appropriate Slugs, kick them off your boat as if they had Homeric Fever,
because they are Dufus's and will only cost you money. If you take your
radio to a Service Shop and the guy Doesn't have a Real Service Monitor,
Do NOT have them work on you rig. They are hacks and don't deserve your
business. Even IF these folks show up with ALL the Right Tools, that
doesn't mean they know what is what, it only means the have the Tools.
Watch them like a hawk. Ask Questions. Experience Shows, and any Good
Radioman will be more than happy to explain what he is doing and why,
AND will show you exactly what your problem IS and what it will take to
correct it.
I was always willing to show my customers everything they wanted to know
about their stuff, because they learned, and I didn't have to fix the
same stuff twice, for the same guy. I always had more business than I
could work, and I usually sent the Apprentice's down on the small stuff,
after they had worked with me, for six months, out in the field. I have
trained a lot of Marine Techs, over the years, and as we are a Dying
Breed, Many are doing other things in RF Communications than Marine work
these days. I used to be able to count the Quality Marine Radiomen on
the West Coast and North Pacific on two hands. NOW it is down to One
hand, and MF/HF Marine RadioMen... well I can think if just (4) that I
would take my rigs to, as this is now a Very Specialized Area of Marine
World, and mostly obsolete, due to TracPhones, Cellular, and GMDSS.
I am just happy to consult and be semi-reTired.
Hmmm.. that sounds a little doubtful to me. If a coax gets a short,
it reflects plenty before the short. If a coax gets an open, it
reflects plenty before the open.... If a coax gets a 50 ohm lossy
resistance, then it soaks up all the power with no reflection.
That's where I'm coming from...
B
Actually it is YOU, Wilbur, who can't read, or does NOT understand the
technology that you are talking about. The Deviation of the Modulator in
Skip's Transmitter is EXACTLY what we are DISCUSSING and the VOLUME of
Skips signal has absolutely NOTHING TO DO with the Power OUT of his
Transmitter, but everything to do with the Modulation Deviation of his
Transmitter.... This is why a One WAtt Handheld sounds just as loud, in
a receiver, as a 25 watt radio, when both signals are above the 12db
Quieting Threshold of that receiver.... You just show your ignorance,
when you spout off about things you have no Clue about....
>
>Well, it would seem from all the previous posts that there is some
>controversy about the recommended RF Coax for VHF Marine Installations
>on various Vessel type.... Hmmmm... Well the answers are fairly
>straight forward. It really depends on the installation. Small coax,
>RG58 types, are alright for runs less than 10 Ft. For runs up 100Ft, RG8
>Types Should be used. RG213 is better than RG8 or RG8 Foam Core Types,
>due to Wx survivability, and Water Intrusion. The Price Difference
>between RG213 and RG214, is usually NOT a cost effective for a NORMAL
>Marine Installation, especially on a non-Commercial Vessels, where
>budgets are tight. For Military Installations RG214 is the MINIMUM. On
>commercial vessels up thru the 80's, RG213 was the standard, for runs
>under 100 Ft.
Thanks Bruce
And so am I. A long length of lossy cable will show no reflected
power which translates to an SWR of 1:1.
Then we are agreed that a SWR reading can be misleading in this
circumstance.
Brian W
>Wayne.B wrote:
>> On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:04:12 -0600, brian whatcott
>> <bet...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> If a coax gets a 50 ohm lossy
>>> resistance, then it soaks up all the power with no reflection.
>>>
>>> That's where I'm coming from...
>>
>> And so am I. A long length of lossy cable will show no reflected
>> power which translates to an SWR of 1:1.
>>
>
>Then we are agreed that a SWR reading can be misleading in this
>circumstance.
>
It depends on your expectations. An SWR meter is not the right tool
for evaluating the condition/quality of coax. For that you need a
stable signal source, a dummy load and a good watt meter like a Bird.
The ratio of power in vs power out translates to the loss in dbs with
a little calculation.
> If your paying someone to look at you stuff, and he brings anything
> aboard to check the VHF Antennas other than a Bird Wattmeter with the
> appropriate Slugs, kick them off your boat as if they had Homeric Fever,
> because they are Dufus's and will only cost you money. /snip/
If you Google "VHF", sure enough you find entries about Viral
Hemorrhagic Fevers (VHFs) like Ebola, Dengue and Marburg. :-)
Bird Wattmeters are a trusted article no doubt.
If you come up against a strangely absorptive coax, it might just stay
absorptive on the Bird, even with the load disconnected. That should
provide a clue.
Brian W
I can get by with a Hewlett Packard 8754A and Site Master S331D.
PKB! You're the one who's clueless. I happen to own one of those crap
radios myself and I have discovered all their foibles and failings. You are
just operating on theory and your theory is little more than an uninformed
guess. So take a hike. When you get some experience with this particular
radio perhaps you can return then.
Besides, anybody living in Alaska where he gets is ass frozen off most of
the year can't be too bright in the first place.
Wilbur Hubbard
>>
>> Actually it is YOU, Wilbur, who can't read, or does NOT understand the
>> technology that you are talking about. The Deviation of the Modulator in
>> Skip's Transmitter is EXACTLY what we are DISCUSSING and the VOLUME of
>> Skips signal has absolutely NOTHING TO DO with the Power OUT of his
>> Transmitter, but everything to do with the Modulation Deviation of his
>> Transmitter.... This is why a One WAtt Handheld sounds just as loud, in
>> a receiver, as a 25 watt radio, when both signals are above the 12db
>> Quieting Threshold of that receiver.... You just show your ignorance,
>> when you spout off about things you have no Clue about....
>>
>> --
>> Bruce in alaska
>
>
>
>
>PKB! You're the one who's clueless. I happen to own one of those crap
>radios myself and I have discovered all their foibles and failings. You are
>just operating on theory and your theory is little more than an uninformed
>guess. So take a hike. When you get some experience with this particular
>radio perhaps you can return then.
>
I'm given to understand that the Bruce is an expert in these matters.
>Besides, anybody living in Alaska where he gets is ass frozen off most of
>the year can't be too bright in the first place.
>
No reason to drag Sarah Palin into a radio discussion.
You should be ashamed of yourself.
--Vic
Not a good test as his receiver will be grossly overloaded. Could be the
result frequency drift resulting in the IF of the receiver moving off
the linear part of the discriminator. Although I still favour the idea
that the listener fell asleep. I myself have reached a semi comatose
state reading your posts, many times..
> I can get by with a Hewlett Packard 8754A and Site Master S331D.
>
> http://www.us.anritsu.com/products/S331D_Site-Master153-Cable-and-Antenna-Analyzer_ARSPG_ARQQSidZ595.aspx
>
I liked the FDR feature; that and TDR are features of avionics cable
troubleshooting of the FA18 f'rinstance...
Brian W
How unkind! I laughed, naturally.
Brian W
Just trying to be helpful, as usual.
When in doubt about a coaxial cables integrity, a Good Radioman will
ALWAYS run the test at BOTH ends of the cable, with his Bird, and see
just exactly how much power is being used heating up the cable. SWR is
meaningless if the cable is soaking up the RF Power and selfheating....
All the best
Brian W
> My antenna feed for the current installation runs in our bilge,
WIth all your wrecks and rebuilds and refits why on earth do you have
wires in your bilge??????
>and our
> rudder post is currently in need of repacking, sending a constant stream of
> water down the bilge/limberholes,
Uhhh have you given the nut a bit of a turn??????
Why did you let it get to that condition?????????? That shit just does
nt happen over night. uggg.
> Thanks, y'all
> Skip, in the Bahamas for another few days before a month ashore
> IMHO the only wiring of any kind that belongs in the bilge is the
> circuit for the bilge pump. Everything else will be much happier in
> a dry location, especially if there are connectors involved.
Excellent !
> I am not a big fan of Uniden electronics, preferring ICOM and Standard
> for VHF radios.
I asked the two 1600 grt Ocean Masters I work with. Each have 25 years
driving boats in the oilfield. Each supported your suggestions.
One liked Standard best cause their hand helds last as long and are
cheeper than ICOM
The ABs use Icom M88 hand held with a speaker/mic. They get absolutly
abused. Dropped on decks several times daily rained on, covered in
grout and chipped clean. I spray Lysol on the my radio everytime I go
on watch. 3 ABs ahve been useing four M88s for the last 9 months with
no problmes. Except the little clip on the mic to clip onto your
shirt. butwe modified that so it works great. If their base stations
are anything like the handhelds id say buy buy buy.
BOb
It really doesnt matte how smart ya'll are You seem to froget the
obvious....
Skip is a mechanical idiot. There is no telling what FUBAR set up he
has.. Heck He probably didnt replace any of the wiring after he sunk
his boat. There was a concern that the radio want getting enough
amps.....
Who knows, he has 800 Ah of batterys and probably his battery wires
are probable nuthin but green dust inside that primary cover.
Do you really think a guy who has a rudder post that he cant set the
flow has a professionally wired VHF?
My advice.......... dont cast your pearls among swine.
bob
"Bob" <frey...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:04209aec-ccdd-46a7...@a10g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 13, 6:53 am, "Flying Pig" <skipgundl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi, y'all,
>> My antenna feed for the current installation runs in our bilge,
> WIth all your wrecks and rebuilds and refits why on earth do you have
wires in your bilge??????
Cuz that's how it gets where it needs to go. You didn't read the rest of
it, natch, cuz it didn't suit your bashing. Some folks think of bilge as
the very bottom of the boat. I didn't - if I'm incorrect, my bad. Tell me
what else to call it...
>>and our
>> rudder post is currently in need of repacking, sending a constant stream
>> of
>> water down the bilge/limberholes,
>Uhhh have you given the nut a bit of a turn??????
Many times, over many instances.
>Why did you let it get to that condition?????????? That shit just does
nt happen over night. uggg.
The problem is that the post itself is corroded/pitted. That not only lets
water through, but wears on the packing.
During the wreck, we expected to have to replace the rudder, but it was
pronounced sound by several knowledgeable folks. The next major haulout, we
may indeed have to do that, unless we can find a machine shop which can
build it up and turn it back down to the proper size. Until that time, we
just have to live with it. It's time for a repack, anyway, as it's right at
3 years since I did it. Not a biggie - but the very best circumstances
still has it leaking slightly.
And, to another of your posts, we didn't sink - pretty hard to sink on a
shelf that's dry at MLW :{))
The only things which got wet were about a hundred rolls of toilet paper and
a seal-a-meal, as they were on the side on which she lay (see wreck pix in
the gallery for a better idea). No floorboards, and very little of anything
else got wet.
She towed home on her own bottom, with her own rudder (albiet a bit sticky
to starboard, due to the separated skin), and her own bilge pumps easily
kept up with the only flow, from around the core of a transducer who's
plastic mushroom had been popped off in the pounding. If it had happened to
have been bronze, we'd have had NO water in the boat...
Nice try on the slam, though :{))
About to climb on a plane tomorrow at ohdarkthirty, and all but the
injectors are removed and ready to pack. Off to defrost the freezer...
L8R
Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog
"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand
(Richard Bach)
> Nice try on the slam, though :{))
>
> About to climb on a plane tomorrow at ohdarkthirty, and all but the
> injectors are removed and ready to pack. Off to defrost the freezer...
>
> L8R
>
> Skip
>
Skip,
You collect the whacks no doubt. But I will say this - and you've
heard it more than once - YOU are living the sailor's dream, and
everyone else is only talking a good story....
Fair breezes
Brian W
> wires in your bilge??????
> Cuz that's how it gets where it needs to go.
WTF ? ? ? ? ? ?
ugggggg.
> You didn't read the rest of
> it, natch, cuz it didn't suit your bashing. Some folks think of bilge as
> the very bottom of the boat. I didn't - if I'm incorrect, my bad. Tell me
> what else to call it...
what ar eyou talking about skip?
Bilge..... I think of it as bullshit. as in "Skip, your comments are
bilge."
Bob
There ARE people who would send off for a sheet of stainless feeler
stock, and cut a rectangle to wrap the rudder post with the smallest
possible weeper gap in the seal section, and having filled the sealing
area pits with loaded epoxy, would glue the wrapper round it.
Of course, *I* would never do any jury-rig like that!
Brian w
>There ARE people who would send off for a sheet of stainless feeler
>stock, and cut a rectangle to wrap the rudder post with the smallest
>possible weeper gap in the seal section, and having filled the sealing
>area pits with loaded epoxy, would glue the wrapper round it.
On my old Cal-34 I used to wrap the rudder post with a layer or two of
heavy duty mylar sheet, goop it all up with water pump grease and
reinstall. It was usually good for a couple of years.