For best results it should be sprayed, but I've seen some nice result from
roller followed by drawing a dry brush through the wet paint. This procedure
was demonstrated by one of me major paint manufactures.
Steve
S/V Good Intentions
anybody ever use that on a boat? if there is any reason not
to, please let me know asap because as soon as it warms up i
am going to paint one with it.
bob
Bob Goodman wrote in message <3890976A...@acesag.auburn.edu>...
Steve (USN ret)
S/V Good Intentions
>well for a BOAT (not yacht) how about using 2 part cement
>floor paint. its epoxy, not polyurethane, and much
>tougher.
>
>anybody ever use that on a boat? if there is any reason not
>to, please let me know asap because as soon as it warms up i
>am going to paint one with it.
>
>bob
Check the UV properties, as it may break down (chalk) in sunlight.
Sherwin Williams 2-part epoxy (TileCladII) is great paint but not
suitable for outside use, for example.
John
Anyone know?
The manufacturer does not recommend it for outdoor use. The retailer
advised strongly aginst it saying that it could start chalking within 6-9
months (in my tropical sun).
I've applied it onto the interior deck floor (they cost less than half of
polyurethane). These are my observations:
1. It is hard, not exactly flexible.
2. Around internal 90 degree edges, it pulled away from the surface and
flaked/chipped off. This cud be prevented with better surface prep..maybe,
I must admit I did not do a very good job.
3. I have not reached chalking yet, its only been 3 months and I've been
out only several times, still working on the boat most of the time under
shade.
4. The paint is quite thick, so application leaves a thick coating, not
necessarily bad.
The feeling of a newly painted boat, you've gotta be there, wonderful,
especially if it was an old jalopy when u started.
Good luck.
Tan PS
"Bob Goodman" <wgoo...@acesag.auburn.edu> wrote in message
news:3890976A...@acesag.auburn.edu...
> well for a BOAT (not yacht) how about using 2 part cement
> floor paint. its epoxy, not polyurethane, and much
> tougher. i painted my basement floor with it a few (4)
> years ago, and you cant even tell if its any different from
> the day i painted it on. even on the stairs, which are
> wood, the stuff seems to be tough as nails, wont chip peel
> or anything else. and it comes in 2 colors so you can
> either have a tan boat or a grey boat. and it only costs
> about 50 bucks a gallon. i mean what else could you want?
>
I know this kind of advice is unorthodox in this newsgroup lately but:
Why not use MARINE paint????!!!!
The cost differential, (which I guess is the only reason to use a
non-marine paint.) is miniscule.
Seahag
Pat Ford <pf...@halcyon.com> wrote in message
news:38933858....@news.halcyon.com...
> well for a BOAT (not yacht) how about using 2 part cement
> floor paint. its epoxy, not polyurethane, and much
> tougher. i painted my basement floor with it a few (4)
> years ago, and you cant even tell if its any different from
> the day i painted it on. even on the stairs, which are
> wood, the stuff seems to be tough as nails, wont chip peel
> or anything else. and it comes in 2 colors so you can
> either have a tan boat or a grey boat. and it only costs
> about 50 bucks a gallon. i mean what else could you want?
uhh...to not have my boat look like it was part of the 7th Fleet?
my goal is to have the cheapest new 24 foot inboard in the
world. the lumber cost $400. the motor is a gas wisconsin
(free), i have lots of pieces off old boats to use. im
putting it together with galvanized deck nails left over
from another job, but i have to buy a few screws and bolts
and stuff. all total, i think i can do it for $600.
i have the keel and several frames done (there are only
five). i hope to get the frames done and on the keel this
week, and start planking the sides.