Paint question

[Dennis Couch]

I filed away an interesting tid-bit concerning boat paint & Acrylic Latex
paint, from a magazine I had read. The gist of the article was that the
quality of Acrylic paint was so high, that it was up to task serving in the
marine environment. Is/has anyone any experience with this? Would it work
well on a wooden boat, fiberglass covered?

Dennis Couch

[@goeshere Thomas Bloomer]

If you are talking about the automotive acrylic enamel like you get on a new
car . . . yes it is good stuff and perfectly acceptable for painting over a
fiberglass substrate.
--
Tom Bloomer
Hartly, DE

"Dennis Couch" <denc...@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:XXOF8.21431$Bw6....@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

[Brian]

That's a black and white question in a grayscale world!

1. Compatibility: Test it. Always use primer, then paint with the paint,
let cure. Cut 1/8" cross-hatch pattern (several lines) with a razor blade,
then stick on some super sticky packing or duct tape, and rip the tape off.
All squares of paint must remain. If any come off, the test failed (test
courtesy of System Three Epoxy in Seattle, WA.)

2. No paint can be kept under the water unless it specifically states that
it is designed for 'under the waterline.' That includes all marine paints,
unless they make the specific aforementioned statement.

3. Toughness. That's something that comes in degrees. The toughest will be
the 2-part linear polyurethanes. Second toughest will be the single-part
linear polyurethanes, 3rd toughest will be automotive paints, acrylic
enamels and latexes will be below that, alkyd or oil based enamels next, and
the softest will be plain ordinary latex. Spar varnish has a similar
toughness to enamels, and polyurethane varnishes (clear coats like
Varathane) will be tougher. My list may not be exactly accurate (I'm not a
chemist), but this is the order as I understand it.

Duzzat help? Which paint to use depends a lot on the boat, e.g. expensive
pretty boat, operates in tough environment, simple fishing skiff,
kick-around boat already half rotten, work boat, or? Next biggest factor is
cost...well over $100/gallon down to less than $20/gallon, and in general
you get what you pay for and the top-end paints need to be professionally
applied if you want good results and prefer not to develop cancer.

Brian

--
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"Dennis Couch" <denc...@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:XXOF8.21431$Bw6....@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

[@goeshere Thomas Bloomer]

>> Second toughest will be the single-part linear polyurethanes

There is no such thing as a single part LPU - ya got ta have two parts or it
ain't linear or polymer. The single part paints with poly or poxy in the
name are alkids. Automotive acrylic enamel is tougher, but you have to
spray it.

[William R. Watt]

any good quality latex exterior house paint will do

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[Scott Downey]

One advantage of latex paints it will stay somewhat soft not crack and
harden.
So on a wooden boat where the wood moves, the paint can move with the wood.
I painted a wooden hull with exterior acrylic latex high gloss enamel and it
still looks good after 3 years, It has not deteriorated at all.

"William R. Watt" <ag...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote in message
news:acbqpa$3a1$1...@freenet9.carleton.ca...

[Brian]

That wouldn't surprise me. "EasyPoxy" has nothing to do with epoxy
either...gotta love that marketing, eh? And System Three calls their primer
a "high build" primer until you buy it. Then the instruction sheet says "it
goes on thin, put lots of coats on" or something to that effect. Life goes
on.

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"Thomas Bloomer snip.net>" <bloomer< the @ goes here > wrote in message
news:3ce8013b$1...@snipnews.snip.net...

[Brian]

Key word that you used "acrylic". Big difference between acrylic latex and
just 'latex'. The acrylic version is a much better product. No need to use
standard soft house 'latex.' Acrylic latex is a good general purpose, above
the waterline (or for shorter spells below the waterline), paint for boats.
If you want the real McCoy, get a higher quality, and have a beautiful paint
job from rolling/tipping or spraying, then Interlux Briteside paint is
pretty awesome stuff. Not as tough as the 2-part LPU's, but far far easier
to apply and get a beautiful job out of it. Nice stuff. 2-part LPU's suck
when it comes to application, either stinking like hell forever, requiring
expert spraying, or in the case of water-based ones like S3 sells...they are
a pain to apply, look only so-so when cured, and cost a helluva lot. Tough
though, that's all I can say about it.

--
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"Scott Downey" <sdow...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:r8iG8.66$p3....@sydney.visi.net...

[Max Camirand]

2-part LPU may also be too hard for applications on some wood
structures. Wood 'works' a lot, and could crack such a brittle
coating.

-m

------

secure email: max c at ziplip dot com

[Scott Downey]

Exactly, my previous coating was cracked and brittle on the wood.
Cracks lead to peeling, wood exposure to fresh water and ultimately rot.
Wood expands and contracts and your paint has to move with the wood.

"Max Camirand" <maxcamira...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3ce9cbf7...@news1.qc.sympatico.ca...

[Scott Downey]

I also used the latex primer before the finish paint as well.

"Max Camirand" <maxcamira...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3ce9cbf7...@news1.qc.sympatico.ca...

[Jesse]

Scott,
What did you use to paint it?
Sprayer? Roller? Brush?

I tried painting an exterior steel door with a foam roller once and it can
out bumpy!!!!
Yuck!

BTW, Can one of these be used to paint a boat using Acrylic Latex House
paint??...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2024943269

I ask because I have a brand new one in my garage this I'd like to get some
use of. Sorry about the link above, I could no longer find it at the Wagner
website.

Note: I am in no way associated with the like above. It is only for
descriptive purposes.

Thanks!

Jesse

[Highlander]

Jesse <Jes...@aaahawk.com> wrote in message
news:ack3on$47u$1...@news.chatlink.com...

> I tried painting an exterior steel door with a foam roller once and it can
> out bumpy!!!!
> Yuck!

You need to investigate "roll and tip" methods of painting. Try doing a
google search.

[Glenn Ashmore]

I would not use an airless sprayer. You don't have that much control of
the thickness laid down. Roll and tip can give a very good surface but
it does not really help with house paints. Marine topsides paints are
formulated very thin. Almost like water, so they will flow out very
evenly over a smooth substrate. Latex house paint is a LOT thicker so
it will cover and fill the comparatively rough house exterior but will
not level as well.

If you want a really good economical tough finish, get some marine
polyurethane like Interlux Brightside. At $85/gal it is only about $25
more than a high quality latex exterior enamel but FAR superior and
yields more coverage. A step down is West marine's private labeled
SeaGloss at $60/gal but you get what you pay for.

One person can do a dinghy but it really takes two people to do anything
larger. One person rolls with an almost dry roller and the second
lightly tips off the roller stipple with a dry brush and watches for
fish eyes and hollidays.

With any paint job though, prep is 90% of the work. With marine paints,
prep is 99 44/100% of the work. The secret is in the primer. If you
put on a high build primer on a well prepped surface and sand it to
perfection, the top coat will be a thing of beauty to be proud of.

Jesse wrote:

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com

[Scott Downey]

I used a thin nap roller for the primer and the paint.
It has not cracked or peeled and is smooth enough to see a shine but not
smooth like glass.
Before I painted the boat I had removed the entire finish down to the bare
wood
I actually used a propane torch and a carbide scraper bought from Lowes and
burned the paint off scraping off the melted paint with the carbide scraper.
I then finish sanded the wood with an orbital sander. I found the carbide
scraper the best one to use. It is very sharp and easily took off the heated
up paint. Just keep the torch moving and bubble up the old paint. It works
much faster than an ordinary heat gun.You have to be careful and try not to
burn the wood. The prior paint on my hull had become extremely brittle with
numerous cracks. I could tell it had once been a very nice looking job. I
choose the latex paint simply because I did not want the paint to crack and
expose the boards to rain water. Someone at the boat yard wanted to use a
peeler or planer on the hull to strip the paint but I decided that might
ruin the smooth contours of the wooden planks. I remember he wanted the job
and actually said I would ruin the wood. Still looks good after 3 years.

"Jesse" <Jes...@aaahawk.com> wrote in message
news:ack3on$47u$1...@news.chatlink.com...

[Pat Ford]

On Thu, 23 May 2002 23:23:12 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
<gash...@mindspring.com> wrote:

>I would not use an airless sprayer. You don't have that much control of
>the thickness laid down. Roll and tip can give a very good surface but
>it does not really help with house paints. Marine topsides paints are
>formulated very thin. Almost like water, so they will flow out very
>evenly over a smooth substrate. Latex house paint is a LOT thicker so
>it will cover and fill the comparatively rough house exterior but will
>not level as well.

<snips>
As usual, Glenn has written a knowledgeable, calm and well-reasoned
entry in the on-going latex house paint versus marine paint discussion
on this newsgroup.

Yes, you can paint a boat with latex house paint. However, if your
expectations rise above merely having the boat one color, you won't be
satisfied.

One point: Around here (Seattle) it is common for _interior_ marine
paint to be applied with high volume-low pressure sprayers. I realize
this is not the same as an airless sprayer.

[Trent Hink]

If you want to get a better finish with latex or acrylic paints try adding a
product called Flotrol made by Flood. It makes the paint flow-out better and
dry a little slower but it is not really a thinner so you still get good
coverage.

The company also offers a similar product for alklyd paints called Pentrol
Which I have found to be pretty much required for getting a good smooth
finish with most modern low-VOC alklyd paints.

You should not use water-based paints on steel because the water in the
paint will flash-rust any of the metal that is not well-covered by primer.

"Jesse" <Jes...@aaahawk.com> wrote in message
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