where to buy portlights?
max camirand
My Gazelle is lacking portlights. The portholes are 8". I'm looking
for a source for affordable opening portlights of that dimension. Ebay
and google don't yield much. I can't afford bronze, so I'm open to all
materials (including plastic) if they're strong enough for offshore
duty.
Regards,
-Maxime
Bruce In Bangkok
Is this a Colvin Gazelle ?
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Steve Lusardi
No portlight is inexpensive, of any variety. You must be very careful when you buy these, because you have to plan the
installation and it is not straightforward. All portlight faces are flat, but your hull is not. You will also have an inner hull
liner of some description and depth. So you will have very specific dimensions and you will also need to fabricate a flat mounting
surface to match the portlight design. On top of that, the only safe portlight will also incorporate a compound hinge and
companion deadlight plate. Please remember that in very heavy weather and breaking seas, the portlight can experience several tons
of explosive force. Your life can depend on your choice. Be prepared to spend serious money on these. I have 13, 8 x 16" bronze
portlights that cost me $14,000 without costing the installation.
Steve
"max camirand" <maxca...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:60c7be07-00a3-40b8...@j42g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
max camirand
wrote:
>
> Is this a Colvin Gazelle ?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bruce
> (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Yep! Pacific Orca of Juneau, currently hauled out in Seattle.
Regards,
-Maxime
max camirand
> Max,
> No portlight is inexpensive, of any variety. You must be very careful when you buy these, because you have to plan the
> installation and it is not straightforward. All portlight faces are flat, but your hull is not. You will also have an inner hull
> liner of some description and depth. So you will have very specific dimensions and you will also need to fabricate a flat mounting
> surface to match the portlight design. On top of that, the only safe portlight will also incorporate a compound hinge and
> companion deadlight plate. Please remember that in very heavy weather and breaking seas, the portlight can experience several tons
> of explosive force. Your life can depend on your choice. Be prepared to spend serious money on these. I have 13, 8 x 16" bronze
> portlights that cost me $14,000 without costing the installation.
> Steve
>
Steve,
I presume some materials are more affordable than others. I am able to
deal with the challenges of installation. Some of the portholes will
get thick plexiglass deadlights. However, a few of the portholes will
need to be of the opening type in order to get adequate ventilation
below.
Can you suggest a type and a place to buy them? I've heard of discount
online marine chandleries, but I only know West Marine, who are
definitely not 'discount'.
Regards,
-Maxime
Steve Lusardi
You may wish to check out Davey & Co in London. They make quality portlights. These are not inexpensive, but definitely worth the
money. They have portlight patterns on the shelf that go back to the late 1800s and these are not on their website, but they are
available, just ask. http://www.davey.co.uk/pdf/portlights.pdf These folks made my portlights. You can also check out Vetus in
Holland, but they are meant for inshore use and do not have deadlight plates. http://www.vetus.nl/ l I have also bought samples
in stainless and brass made in the far east. My samples were not certified, very poorly made and not significantly less money. I
highly advise you to avoid the far east. You can also contact the ship scrap yards in India, but I can tell you that they are very
difficult to deal with and you have a very good chance of not receiving what you think you bought. If you need leads there, I can
give you a couple.
Good luck,
Steve
"max camirand" <maxca...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:22837540-4a52-4725...@s31g2000yqs.googlegroups.com...
den
> money. They have portlight patterns on the shelf that go back to the late 1800s and these are not on their website, but they are
> Holland, but they are meant for inshore use and do not have deadlight plates. http://www.vetus.nl/l I have also bought samples
> in stainless and brass made in the far east. My samples were not certified, very poorly made and not significantly less money. I
> highly advise you to avoid the far east. You can also contact the ship scrap yards in India, but I can tell you that they are very
> difficult to deal with and you have a very good chance of not receiving what you think you bought. If you need leads there, I can
> give you a couple.
> Good luck,
> Steve
>
>
> On Dec 28, 6:43 am, "Steve Lusardi" <stevenos...@lusardi.de> wrote:
>
> > Max,
> > No portlight is inexpensive, of any variety. You must be very careful when you buy these, because you have to plan the
> > installation and it is not straightforward. All portlight faces are flat, but your hull is not. You will also have an inner hull
> > liner of some description and depth. So you will have very specific dimensions and you will also need to fabricate a flat
> > mounting
> > surface to match the portlight design. On top of that, the only safe portlight will also incorporate a compound hinge and
> > companion deadlight plate. Please remember that in very heavy weather and breaking seas, the portlight can experience several
> > tons
> > of explosive force. Your life can depend on your choice. Be prepared to spend serious money on these. I have 13, 8 x 16" bronze
> > portlights that cost me $14,000 without costing the installation.
> > Steve
>
> Steve,
>
> I presume some materials are more affordable than others. I am able to
> deal with the challenges of installation. Some of the portholes will
> get thick plexiglass deadlights. However, a few of the portholes will
> need to be of the opening type in order to get adequate ventilation
> below.
>
> Can you suggest a type and a place to buy them? I've heard of discount
> online marine chandleries, but I only know West Marine, who are
> definitely not 'discount'.
>
> Regards,
> -Maxime
Send seachestmarine an email, telling them what you are looking for.
Steve is pretty good at locating stuff. http://www.seachestmarine.com/
Good luck.
Den
48YF EAGLE
max camirand
portlights is a hypothetical boarding wave, I could have outside-
opening portlights of thick plexiglass. If the portlight window were
of a larger diameter than the porthole, it would merely be forced
against the hull by a boarding wave. The plastic window itself is more
than strong enough.
Regards,
-Maxime
Bruce In Bangkok
Or you can fit "storm boards" over the ports in bad weather.
The "problem" that most people have with ports is that they leak. I've
seen a lot of people cursing and re-bedding their ports. Never saw a
guy replacing one that a wave broke :-)
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
mmc
Fuller Brush company makes some very tough plastic portlights. They last
over 20 years and maybe a lot longer if protected from natural and manmade
attacks.
Last I checked a large (+/- 14") went for about $170.
Bruce In Bangkok
I've got Fuller ports on my boat - built in 1971.The ports are still
in first class shape.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Bob
> I've got Fuller ports on my boat - built in 1971.The ports are still
> in first class shape.
> Bruce
My Dear Bruce:
My 1979 Freya had 7x15 (i think) Fuller Brush ports. Something to
consider. As I was ripping them out they frames shatered. After 30
years me thinks the PLASTIC reached the end of their design life. In
oter words the elements done rotted them,
Get them out or dont go to see and ex[ect to have thme withstand a
good hit. They WILL blow out. Go look at the hinge that attached the
lense to the port. The hinge is just a sliver of plastic that has
become extreamly brittle, in your case, after THRITY NINE YEARS.... my
god bruce plastic that is nearly 40 years old.... humm.
bob
Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:
Apparently there must be different "Fuller Ports" as from your
description of your ports you have totally different ports from what I
have installed in my boat. You state, for example, that the hinge is
"just a sliver of plastic", while my ports have four blocks,
approximately 3/4" in width and thickness, for hinge points and the
equal for the locking screws.
In addition, some months ago one of the ports started to leak a bit so
I removed it and re-bedded it. Since they were all likely to have been
installed at the same time I, with the hope of heading off future
leaks, decided to remove and re-bed all the remaining ports. None of
them shattered while I was removing, or reinstalling them,
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
mmc
"Bruce In Bangkok" <decypher...@sig.line> wrote in message
news:p5n4l5pl0t0n00hlf...@4ax.com...
Bruce,
I replaced 2 on my '73 GS 41 that were beyond hazed. After prying with a
flat bar, beating with a hammer and wood chisel, etc, etc, I ended up using
a recipricating saw to cut them apart to get them out because the plastic
was STRONG and the mfr used a bunch of bedding on each. There was no way in
hell they were going to blow out.