Varnish of Polyurethane ??
GaryJ
Seriously, my impression is that varnish is a bit more flexible and will
be less likely to flake off when the boat is under stress. (And this
canoe I do use pretty hard.)
(I am young enough to be used to using polyurethane for everything, and
old enough to think that you should use varnish for boats and things
that really matter.)
TKS
GaryJ
Meindert Sprang
news:3EEDDEB6...@maps.moc...
> I have to refinish the inside of a cedar rib and plank canoe.
>
> Seriously, my impression is that varnish is a bit more flexible and will
> be less likely to flake off when the boat is under stress. (And this
> canoe I do use pretty hard.)
You're right. Also, varnish sticks better to wood than PU. I used PU on a
plywood lapstrake boat and indeed, on the slightest 'touch' with any hard
object (shore, other boat) it tends to flake off, especially near edges.
Meindert
Jim Conlin
PU for interior home projects.
Rick Tyler
Most polyurethane finishes are more properly polyurethane varnishes,
and some of them don't even contain polyurethane. That seems clear,
right? What they all have in common is that they create a hard,
waterproof finish that works great on furniture that is not subjected
to a lot of wear. Once a finish like this is breached (like a crack),
moisture can get it and does not evaporate. Generally, bad stuff for
a boat.
Furniture varnishes that dry hard have the same problems. They make a
nice finish, but they do not work so well in a marine environment
where they are subjected to a lot of wear, sunlight, and moisture.
Marine spar varnishes are softer than furniture varnishes. You can
think of them as never really curing the way furniture varnishes do,
which gives them some resilience and continuing protection against
water. Most marine varnishes also include UV resistance, which
furniture varnish does not really need.
When it comes to wood finishing, I've always found it is a good idea
to find the finish designed for your application, and then apply it
according to the manufacturer's instructions. Marine spar varnish is
the correct product to use in exterior wood marine applications, if
you want a nice finish.
- Rick Tyler
P.C.
"Rick Tyler" <rht...@attbi.com> skrev i en meddelelse
news:87trevkilou8de2a5...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:11:34 GMT, GaryJ <spam...@maps.moc> wrote:
>
> Marine spar varnishes are softer than furniture varnishes. You can
> think of them as never really curing the way furniture varnishes do,
> which gives them some resilience and continuing protection against
> water. Most marine varnishes also include UV resistance, which
> furniture varnish does not really need.
True, my experience is, that the cheapest floor Polyurethane varnish, ----- easy
to know as they dry as fast as in 4 hours, can be added a bit Linseed or better
Bee wax soluted in terpentine. Just a little beside allway's use linseed
before, and don't mind first layer varnish is done with wet linseed surface, as
then the layers will graduatly mix, making the perfect sealer layer. ---------
first varnish ontop Linseed oil treaded wood, will alway's be double the time to
dry.
I have picures where such varnish lasted for years in the cold north and salty
waters ;))
Oh yea, if you can get veg.terpentine instead of mineral terpentine it is even
better, beside you can use a Cabinet scraper with Polyurethane varnish ; atleast
vith the extreme cheap one.
P.C.
http://www.designcommunity.com/scrapbook/2573.html
P.C.
Bray Haven
a problem with it. I use Intelux Goldspar on everything. I'm also using 2
part poly automotive clearcoat after talking with a pro builder who's been
using it for 6 years with great results. Much tougher than the old oil based
varnishes and actually more flexible. It also sticks to about anything. Can
do 4 coats without sanding in between.
Greg Sefton
Drew Dalgleish
How well does it seal wood? Does it offer any UV protection for epoxy?
Drew Dalgleish
>>How well does it seal wood? Does it offer any UV protection for epoxy?
>
>Assume you're sking about the automotive clearcoat as the Interlux Goldspar is
>well known for its UV protection. Yes, it seals as well as any linear 2 part
>polyurethane paint or varnish. It penetrates very well on the first coat and
>the subsequent cost form a chemical bond with the first. I looked at a boat
>built by the professional builder I mentioned that had been done 5.5 years ago
>that is still winning awards. As to UV, protection, I would assume it's
>outstanding as it's designed for overcoating on auto paint. They (clearcoated
>finsihes) usually go more than 10 years in the sun before needing refinishing.
>I keep my boats covered when not using them, so I would hope someone else will
>be around to re-finish these after I'm in the big shop in the sky.
>Greg Sefton
Thanks Greg
I'm going to start another cedar strip canoe shortly and that
sounds like an excellent finish for it.
GaryJ
> Assume you're sking about the automotive clearcoat as the Interlux Goldspar is
> well known for its UV protection. Yes, it seals as well as any linear 2 part
> polyurethane paint or varnish. It penetrates very well on the first coat and
> the subsequent cost form a chemical bond with the first. I looked at a boat
> built by the professional builder I mentioned that had been done 5.5 years ago
> that is still winning awards. As to UV, protection, I would assume it's
> outstanding as it's designed for overcoating on auto paint. They (clearcoated
> finsihes) usually go more than 10 years in the sun before needing refinishing.
This sounds like great stuff. One of my clues got lost and the other
went looking for it, so I need to ask what you ask for at the paint
store (?) or auto supply shop(?). Will they know what I am talking
about if I just ask for automotive clearcoat? (I am in Canada, where we
have most but not all US products, and a few UK products.)
GaryJ
Bray Haven
>went looking for it, so I need to ask what you ask for at the paint
>store (?) or auto supply shop(?). Will they know what I am talking
>about if I just ask for automotive clearcoat? (I am in Canada, where we
>have most but not all US products, and a few UK products.)
>
>GaryJ
one made by a dupont subsidiary called Nason. It's pretty cheap too @ $28 a
quart. The only drawback is that it contains isocyanates like most 2 part
urethanes. If you paint outside, with any breeze at all you should be well
below the danger concentration. Otherwise, get a respirator specifically made
for isocyantes. I just spray it outside and the bugs always wait til the final
coat to descend into the job and swim around in the finish. Gives it some
character :o).
Greg Sefton
GaryJ
> Yes Gary, just ask for clearcoat. All auto paint makers have one. I'm using
> one made by a dupont subsidiary called Nason. It's pretty cheap too @ $28 a
> quart. The only drawback is that it contains isocyanates like most 2 part
> urethanes. If you paint outside, with any breeze at all you should be well
> below the danger concentration. Otherwise, get a respirator specifically made
> for isocyantes. I just spray it outside and the bugs always wait til the final
> coat to descend into the job and swim around in the finish. Gives it some
> character :o).
I do my finishing outside, so then I always take a new or repaired canoe
on a brisk little river trip to scrape off all the bugs. :o)
GaryJ
megabite
applied Poly U.
"GaryJ" <spam...@maps.moc> wrote in message
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