Non skid painting
Jim
Everything that didn't move was painted. Painted over perfectly good
gel coat. Cheap house paint. A very bad idea.
I used a heat gun and a scraper to remove the paint. It looks perfectly
acceptable. Except for the aft cabin top. This area has grinder marks
with bondo, then paint, then more paint with sand, then 2 layers of
fiberglass, then more paint with a nonskid additive. As awful as it
sounds, it looked professional, but.....fiberglass over sand?
It peeled. I was thinking I had a fiberglassed plywood cabin top until
I removed all the crap. I cannot restore the original nonskid...so I
have to repaint, and I hate the idea.
I'm looking for a deck paint that has some thickness to it, to help hide
the multitude of sins that I have there. I'm thinking of Interlux "Deck
Coat". Then there's the Evercoat rubberized deck paint.
I only want to do this once, I want it to last. And, I'd like it to be
light blue, or beige.
Any suggestions?
Jim
Phil Hughes
Jim,
This may sound unconventional but it works, Use tennis court paint for
the non skid area then paint over that with enamel. a guy at our DIY
yard did this to the deck of his sailboat 5 years ago and it still
looks great and the non skid still works even after putting additional
coats of paint on.
Phil
Joe Kovacs
> And, I'd like it to be
>light blue, or beige.
>
>Any suggestions?
Welp, colour preference is a purely personal thing, of course...
Make the nonskid the same colour as the deck. If the deck's
white, make the nonskid white, like when it was new. Blue or
beige nonskid on a white deck is bottom level amateurish. Heaven
only knows why folks are driven to put bright blue-green nonskid
areas on white decks. That'll automatically drop the value of a
boat to a project boat right there.
--
:-)
Joe Kovacs
Port Colborne Ontario Canada
Jim
Joe:
The cabin tops, and fly bridge are all white, non skid and all. I can
tell you, on a bright sunny day, it's a bit much.
I like the look of "contrasting non skid". Very light pastel "sea"
colors (like blue/beige) doesn't look "bottom level amateurish" to my
eyes. The beige might compliment the teak decks. And since the decks
been damaged, and I must paint, a little beige might help hide the damage.
I'd NEVER consider painting nonskid even if it looks terrible, I'd
repair it if it could be repaired. I know what it will look like down
the road, no matter how good it looks right after you finish painting.
Painting is like using drugs, makes you feel good now, but you'll be
sorry later. Once you start, you can't quit.
Jim
Gary Zwissler
non-skid. Its easy to apply and looks great. It ages to a medium gray with
a bluish hint. It definitely covers up any sins. The key is to use three
coats. The first painted 0-180 degrees, the second 90-270 degrees, the
third 0-180. Don't try to put too much on the first time. It goes on thin,
but subsequent coats provide good build up.
I've had this on my lobsterboat for three years and have had no complaints.
It wears like iron and is easily touched up. I know several commercial
boats that use it as their standard. It holds up extremely well and is soft
on the eyes and doesn't abrade away your feet.
They say it can be tinted with gelcoat tint, but since its gray to begin
with I'm not sure how much you can tint it. Good luck.
"Jim" <J...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3CE1485C...@Hotmail.com...
Jim
>
> I've found the Evercoat "Skid No More" to be an excellent solution to
> non-skid. Its easy to apply and looks great. It ages to a medium gray with
> a bluish hint. It definitely covers up any sins. The key is to use three
> coats. The first painted 0-180 degrees, the second 90-270 degrees, the
> third 0-180. Don't try to put too much on the first time. It goes on thin,
> but subsequent coats provide good build up.
>
> I've had this on my lobsterboat for three years and have had no complaints.
> It wears like iron and is easily touched up. I know several commercial
> boats that use it as their standard. It holds up extremely well and is soft
> on the eyes and doesn't abrade away your feet.
>
> They say it can be tinted with gelcoat tint, but since its gray to begin
> with I'm not sure how much you can tint it. Good luck.
>
This is the "rubberized" Evercoat?
By "0-180 degrees", second "90-270 degrees", you mean to overlap the
coats a quarter of the area at a time, and not full coverage? Why?
It's only three rectangles in a 5X8 foot space, with a big hatch in the
middle. Not a huge area.
Jim
murphy
"Jim" <J...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
He means that each coat is applied with the direction of
brushing at right angles to the last.
e.g. 1 bow-stern, 2 port-starboard,3 stern-bow.......... : )
murphy