under water repair
Cornelis Koger
drives of my own design, for which I have added a 1 ft long box to the
stern. In fact it is an extension of the hull that supports the 2 tunnels,
rudders etc.
Although I've spent many hours on my back under the hull laminating and
painting, now that the boat is back in the water, a steady trickle of water
is entering the bilge through one of the holes where the stern tube is
bolted to the stern. The bolts are not visible outside, they are in a grp
walled cavity filled with polyurethane foam.
I would have bet anything that the construction is watertight, but I'm glad
I didn't.
My plan is to locate the hole by pressing a sponge soaked in dye against the
suspected area, with a helper inside who looks for a color change of the
incoming water.
Is anyone familiar with a product or procedure that can successfully seal a
small hole in a submerged object?
Steve Lusardi
a foamed area and that foam is not closed cell, you have foam that will be
waterlogged. If also in that same cavity you have end grain glass exposed,
you will also suffer osmosis. I am afraid you have a winter project redoing
the entire area. The cost of NOT doing that will be far worse.
Steve
"Cornelis Koger" <c...@noonehome.org> wrote in message
news:ghgbbg$d8r$1...@localhost.localdomain...
IanM
> "Cornelis Koger" <c...@noonehome.org> wrote:
>
>>My Draco 2500 twincab has been repowered with VW td engines and tunnel
>>drives of my own design, for which I have added a 1 ft long box to the
>>stern. In fact it is an extension of the hull that supports the 2 tunnels,
>>rudders etc.
>>Although I've spent many hours on my back under the hull laminating and
>>painting, now that the boat is back in the water, a steady trickle of
>>water is entering the bilge through one of the holes where the stern tube
>>is bolted to the stern. The bolts are not visible outside, they are in a
>>grp walled cavity filled with polyurethane foam.
>>I would have bet anything that the construction is watertight, but I'm
>>glad I didn't.
>>
>>My plan is to locate the hole by pressing a sponge soaked in dye against
>>the suspected area, with a helper inside who looks for a color change of
>>the incoming water.
>>
>>Is anyone familiar with a product or procedure that can successfully seal
>>a small hole in a submerged object?
Steve Lusardi wrote:
>> Perhaps your dilemma is far worse than you suspect. If you have a leak into
>> a foamed area and that foam is not closed cell, you have foam that will be
>> waterlogged. If also in that same cavity you have end grain glass exposed,
>> you will also suffer osmosis. I am afraid you have a winter project redoing
>> the entire area. The cost of NOT doing that will be far worse.
>> Steve
Haul out, rip out stern tube, remove waterlogged foam and dry out, grind
back to sound GRP, replace the bonded in nuts. laminate up a GRP tube to
sleeve the stern tube, bond in place checking alignment carefully, fair
and make good. When fully cured, bed the stern tube and its end
fittings in with plenty of a good quality sealant. (Assuming metal stern
tube, a GRP one gets glassed in directly.) There is NO shortcut. OTOH
the leak could be anywhere along the joint of the hull extension so you
may have an even bigger job as if its leaking at the joint, the
structural integrity of the whole addition is questionable.
If foam wasn't involved you *might* have been able to bodge it with
epoxy putty applied underwater. The dye isn't going to be any use as
the volume of water allready in the foam will dilute it to the point
that you dont get a clear colour change in anything like a reasonable
time to keep the sponge in place.
Been there myself and spent a winter on the hard fixing it right.
Cornelis Koger
"IanM" <Inv...@totally.invalid> wrote in message
news:ghgh4p$2ov4$1...@energise.enta.net...
The stern tube, 2,5" diameter, has a welded on flange of 10x12", bolted to
the outside of the 2" thick stern. A short 3,5" tube is welded on the inner
side, laminated in the 2"stern with just glass and resin, almost flush with
the inner engine bay wall. The 4 holes in the flange served the purpose of
assembling and aligning the construction only. All metal parts are marine
grade stainless steel.
The stern tube protrudes 2 ft behind the stern, has ball bearings and
tapered roller bearings to take up axial and radial forces and is oil
filled. Ripping that all out really is no option!
The tunnels are 15" half circles, a little over 2 ft in length, made from
GRP and laminated to the stern and the extension, no leakage there. At that
point of the job, I should have smeared some Sikaflex around the heads of
the 4 bolts, but at the time I didn't think about it.
Because the tunnel entrance was blunt and fairing impossible, I made
something that could best be described as a sloped ceiling. Six layers of
GRP form a warped disc, laminated to the tunnels and the boat's bottom with
roving and expoxy. When that was done, I left a small gap to stick a plastic
tube in and filled the cavity with a polyurethane product used for sealing
sewers and wells. Over 98% closed cells, doesn't rot, but hates UV. After it
hardened, I cut off the excess foam and closed the gap with epoxy/glass.
Finally, I quickly gave it a coat of anti-fouling and put the boat back in
the water with the next high tide.
The water started coming immediately, so my guess is I overlooked a small
hole in a corner or somewhere along the seam between the bottom and this
"ceiling". Probably a maze in the roving that was too large for the epoxy to
fill. As you know, epoxy looks quite capable of filling gaps when applied,
but when it warms up during curing, it is thin as water.
This concerns the starboard tunnel, the port one, with identical
construction, does not leak.
IanM
Haul out *IN PERSON*, wipe down and look for drips (dont let the yard
pressure wash). If you get lucky you *might* find the gap. Otherwise
drill into the cavity and apply air at a pressure of no more than 6"
water gauge, and wet all suspect areas with a 1/3 solution of dish
detergent in water and look for bubbles. You've then got the problem of
drying out the foam.
If the leak *IS* round the stern tube, it will almost certainly have to
come out. I would never trust a directly glassed in metal stern tube as
unless there is a resiliant sealent between the GRP and the metal,
thermal shock alone can break the bond, let alone shaft vibration.
You haven't left youself any maintenance options with a one piece welded
up stern tube and flange directly glassed in :-(
Ideally one should be able to pull all bearings etc. from the stern tube
and heat it up to break the bond and remove it non-destructively for
repairs etc. Some light cleanup of the GRP shell round it and some
fresh sealent and it would all go back together sweetly. Bit late for
that now though.
I hope for your sake the leak is elsewhere.
Cornelis Koger
"IanM" <Inv...@totally.invalid> wrote in message
I did think about maintenance when I designed this, but I expected possible
problems to be inside the tube, not around it. There are removable covers at
both ends of it to renew oil seals or bearings in case a seal would fail and
water has entered the tube.
tomdownard
Splash-Zone
Paul Oman
den
> >> Is anyone familiar with a product or procedure that can successfully seal a
> >> small hole in a submerged object?
Den 48ft Yachtfisher EAGLE
http://www.densnet.com
Steve Lusardi
Steve
"den" <d...@densnet.com> wrote in message
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