Installation with a length of PVC pipe is highly recommended if you're
going for a true high-class job. :-D
> I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull
> headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would
> be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
It isn't a puller but rather a pusher and the tool is relatively
inexpensive:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=RT%2D1
Jobst Brandt
> I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull
> headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would
> be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
Oops, Park Tools was a bit misleading in that they show you a remover
for frame bearing races when you ask. You probably want a device that
looks more like this:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs/productID/1789
Actually, if you don't mind the race getting some mild blemishes, you
can beat it off the fork with a flat faced punch (drift pin) by
alternately driving the front and rear part from the underside.
Jobst Brandt
--
DTW .../\.../\.../\...
I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
The rest, I've just wasted.
>I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset
>crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather
>tiresome for one headset's worth.
I've had no problem getting the majority of them off using a bearing
splitter plate, a block of wood, and a hammer. Position the splitter
plate below the race, rest the plate on the open jaws of a big vise,
protect the end of the steer tube with a block of wood, and tap on the
wood with a mallet to drive the steerer through the race. As long as
there's an accessible shoulder to grip under the race, it works.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
Tight as a what?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
>most folk turn white at the sight of a waved machete.
I don't.
JT
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> I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull headset
> crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would be rather
> tiresome for one headset's worth.
Rubber mallet. "Tap" on the front, then back, to work it off the crown.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not
_`\(,_ | certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to
(_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein
Well, now I'm confused. Having looked at these photographs, both of these
devices appear to remove the same thing from the frame. What I've got is
what is left over when a threaded headset has has everything screwed to
the fork unscrewed and the lower half of the lower bearing removed with
the fork.
Sheldon's bicycle glossary suggests I am confused about terminology; that
a "crown race" is what is left behind on the fork (next to the fork crown)
and that what I actually want to remove are the two frame bearing races
which are stuck to opposite ends of the head tube, and so the Park Tool
link depicts what I want. Is that correct?
--
David Damerell <dame...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> Distortion Field!
Today is Second Mania, January.
> On 12 Jan 2006 14:04:55 -0800, data...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >most folk turn white at the sight of a waved machete.
>
> I don't.
>
> JT
Well, 90% of people do. You're one of the talented tenth.
-RjC.
--
Ryan Cousineau rcou...@sfu.ca http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
That's the inexpensive tool that removes the headset cups.
Unfortunately, he wants the expensive-looking tool that removes the
crown race from the fork:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=CRP%2D1
I think G Daniels has the best idea with his cheap-machete concept.
That, or this is one of those 10-minute jobs that may be worth paying a
shop rate for, at least if you're dealing with something vulnerable like
a carbon fork.
>>> I would like to know, please, if there is any good way to pull
>>> headset crown races short of buying a crown race puller, which would
>>> be rather tiresome for one headset's worth.
This tool is for removing bearing races from the head tube of the
bicycle:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=RT%2D1
>> Oops, Park Tools was a bit misleading in that they show you a
>> remover for frame bearing races when you ask. You probably want a
>> device that looks more like this:
This tool is for removing bearing race from the crown of the fork:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs/productID/1789
> Well, now I'm confused. Having looked at these photographs, both of
> these devices appear to remove the same thing from the frame. What
> I've got is what is left over when a threaded headset has has
> everything screwed to the fork unscrewed and the lower half of the
> lower bearing removed with the fork.
The pages describe for what the tools are used but...
> Sheldon's bicycle glossary suggests I am confused about terminology;
> that a "crown race" is what is left behind on the fork (next to the
> fork crown) and that what I actually want to remove are the two
> frame bearing races which are stuck to opposite ends of the head
> tube, and so the Park Tool link depicts what I want. Is that
> correct?
Well that is what confused me so I listed both tools. Yes the fork
crown race is the head bearing race that is a press fit on the fork
crown at the base of the steertube.
Jobst Brandt
> Well, now I'm confused. Having looked at these photographs, both of these
> devices appear to remove the same thing from the frame. What I've got is
> what is left over when a threaded headset has has everything screwed to
> the fork unscrewed and the lower half of the lower bearing removed with
> the fork.
>
> Sheldon's bicycle glossary suggests I am confused about terminology; that
> a "crown race" is what is left behind on the fork (next to the fork crown)
> and that what I actually want to remove are the two frame bearing races
> which are stuck to opposite ends of the head tube, and so the Park Tool
> link depicts what I want. Is that correct?
I drift them out with a short length of good-sized copper pipe.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | Some people used to claim that, if enough monkeys sat in front
_`\(,_ | of enough typewriters and typed long enough, eventually one of
(_)/ (_) | them would reproduce the collected works of Shakespeare. The
internet has proven this not to be the case.
>In article <hdtds1tqnlll64ng8...@4ax.com>,
> John Forrest Tomlinson <usenet...@jt10000.com> wrote:
>
>> On 12 Jan 2006 14:04:55 -0800, data...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >most folk turn white at the sight of a waved machete.
>>
>> I don't.
>>
>> JT
>
>Well, 90% of people do. You're one of the talented tenth.
That's not why.
He was making a joke (a pretty funny one, too).
Hint: it is a talent he was born with.
it requires purchase, but may be justified on the basis of low price and
potential resale to someone with a car...
automotive bearing puller - thus:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1893
the two holes top & bottom are for threaded studs to exert the "pull"
and which you can buy in the hardware store. used correctly, this will
remove even the most obfuscated crown from a wide shouldered carbon fork
no problem, and no damage to fork surfaces.
LOL! Good one JT!
With downhill MTB forks the crown is so wide you can't get under the race
with a screwdriver (or machete). I just go to my LBS with fork in hand and
the mechanic pops it off with their expensive VAR puller for free. (I did
ask how much I owed him at first and he laughed at me.)
Mike
Thanks to all who replied, and apologies for the confusion over the type
of races.
--
David Damerell <dame...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> Kill the tomato!
In windoze, hold the Alt key and type 0176. Like this: °.
--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu
No apology necessary. You stated it quite clearly, three times.
Mike
If you knew me or seen me, you'd know I was making a joke too.
Hint: it has something to do with my birth.
Peter, so was I:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talented_Tenth
http://www.duboislc.org/html/DuBoisBio.html
But JT's response was funnier.
It's odd how often my jokes need footnotes,
After obtaining the two threaded rods, what sort of jig supports their
pushing against or pulling from?
Luke
I guess that whistling sound I heard was your joke going over my head
(which despite being a tall guy, happens a lot).
>I guess that whistling sound I heard was your joke going over my head
>(which despite being a tall guy, happens a lot).
Around here, we use the expression "Was that another SR71?"
>What they all said plus - the fork may have two indentations to fit the tool
>/ screwdriver / punch as a starting point to work it off. Once it moves a
>bit it should come off easily by "rocking" it side to side with your tool of
>choice. It shouldn't take a lot of force. Go easy, use patience.
What he said except a 3/4" or 1" wood chisel (not a good one that you
actually use for wood; a dull one) works great to get the race loose,
then work up with a screwdriver.
As for a $5.00 do-it-yourself slide hammer to fit the new race on, get
a 20" long 1 1/4" dia. shop vac extension. The 1 1/4" end will work
with a 1 1/8" steerer; for a 1" steerer, cut a few inches off the 1"
end so it will fit all the way down to the crown.