Reynolds 931 "cheap stainless"
Twenty per cent more than 853, ten per cent less than 951, yup, that's
brilliant marketing. Or maybe they really wanted to kill both
successful products, and still leave the customer dissatisfied with
having received only the "cheap" stainless.
Oh, as if I _ever_ use percent.
Those who use unbound percent
are to be broken upon the wheel,
once I am Ruler of Earth, and
that goes for my minions as well.
--
Michael Press
It saves having to apply chrome plating for the shiny lovers. A
simple polished finish may work out cheaper than a proper laquered
job. I don't know the cost today, but when I enquired at the
refinishers about 15 years ago and was shocked at the price and
enquired "why?" they insisted that all frames required sand-blasting
to prepare them. I left them to their busy workbook and got the job
done myself with Hammerite and a brush. I worked out how to get the
thick stuff on without leaving gaps or brushstrokes and its stood up
very well.
Right -- FEA for frame building. Most of the builders I know or have
known build off of jigs and use geometries and joinery that has been
around forever. Ain't rocket surgery, as Peter used to say. With
that said, half of the Bohemians winning the prize at the latest
"handmade bicycle" show have built maybe four frames -- but they were
super cool looking frames! Great paint, great lugs -- but gawd only
knows whether the joints are filled or the frame is over-cooked. These
guys don't need FEA. They need some shop classes.
-- Jay Beattie.
I understand what you say, however I suspect the dude that built my
current steel frame is far more savvy than the Bohemians you speak of.
http://www.gelliecustombikeframes.com.au/about-gellie-custom.htm
--
JS.
Old design. Hetchins "Hellenic Triangle"
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bikes/hellenic-kh1a.jpg
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Nashbar sold a frame that fit that description in (IIRC) the early
1990s. One of my friends owns one. He bought it because it was
inexpensive, on sale.
I think it's another one of those ideas (like frames with curved seat
tubes and ultra-short wheelbases, "curly stays," "zertz" inserts,
etc.) that enjoyed some brief attention, but gave no practical
benefit.
- Frank Krygowski
Wow! That's the sort of thing.
I chatted to a mate who's got a:
http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en/bikes/2011/road/model/racemachine/rm01/standard.html
I looked at it for a moment and said, "I bet it's comfortable." He said
it is the most comfy road bike he's ridden.
I wonder if a similar design could be made in steel, and whether it
would also be more comfortable than having the stays in the traditional
position. My guess is it allows the seat post to rotate further under
load. Only testing would reveal actual differences of course.
--
JS.
You want a steel frame with pencil stays. I use one, but the wheel
has to be top notch (when one is 14st ) or things are too soft at the
back making the rear end track one way then the other when climbing at
a not too frenetic cadence. Squaring off the chainstays helps reduce
excessive flexing, but it's usually an accepted comprimise with
steel.
I can't say I'm impressed by the length of unsupported seat tube
between where the seatstays join and where the brace joins. It's a
recipe for flex and/or unnecessary weight in the material. Any proper
engineer and any artist would give that construction one look and ask
if the flex is intentional. If not, he'd move the brace or the
seatstays so that the ends me across the seat tube.
Here are some properly designed crossframe bikes
http://www.utopia-velo.de/relaunch/index.a4d
I especially like the Roadster.
Andre Jute
Steel is real, a Brooks hammock seat makes it better, BIg Apples
better still
GT MTB's have used it forever, e.g.:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_LpsggR4DbkE/S3VXoT2qZBI/AAAAAAAAAAk/4OZRu536r_Y/s400/gt-mountain-bike.jpg
I have one, and it doesn't ride any differently, I wouldn't expect it
to, as that joint is probably the stiffest on a diamond frame. It's not
particularly stressed, either, so I wouldn't expect any effect on frame
life. Just a stylistic affectation, a harmless one.
Speaking of weird stays, there's one of these parking in the rack
outside where I work - set up for touring duty w/ drop bars:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/nishiki_alien_sale_3_143.jpg
They'll be no capillary action, a cosmetic job. Wider joints, even
when filled, do not have the same sort of strength.
from:
http://www.aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
"A braze alloy relies on capillary action to distribute the
brazing filler metal throughout the joint interface.
Capillary action is the force that pulls a liquid through
two parallel surfaces. In brazing, the clearance at which
capillary action is most effective is in the 0.001- to
0.005-in. range.
Joint clearance also has a profound impact on joint
strength. Figure 2 shows how the tensile strength of a
stainless steel brazed joint varies with the amount of
clearance between the parts being joined. Note that the
strongest joint (135,000 lb/in.2 [930.8 MPa]) is achieved
when the joint clearance is 0.0015 in. (0.038 mm). When the
clearance is narrower, it is difficult for the filler metal
to distribute itself adequately throughout the entire joint,
reducing joint strength. Conversely, if the joint clearance
is wider than necessary, the strength of the joint will be
reduced almost to that of the filler metal itself.
Translated into everyday shop practice - an easy slip fit
will give you a perfectly adequate brazed joint between two
tubular parts.
I'll apologise in that I was considering carbon steel and mang-moly
steel frames with the usual brass spelter/rods. I jumped in without
thinking about the implications of this particular tube material and
possibly necessary silver solder. Whether such consistent tolerances
can be obtained with frame-building is another matter. I feel it
possibly unlikely that many of these tubesets will be made up with
lugs.
Strictly speaking, soft soldering is not the same as brazing. Not
only are temperatures much lower for soldering, but required strength
of a soldered joint is low. And there's little chance of damaging the
strength of the parent metal by overheating.
Having done both, I believe brazing is considerably more difficult. I
wouldn't hand a plumber some thin walled alloy steel tubing, some
lugs, and his first oxy-acetylene torch and trust the first bike he
built with them.
- Frank Krygowski
Plumbers also braze.
>On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 13:01:33 -0400, Frank Krygowski
>Brazing socketed joints is not rocket science. Plumbers installing
>copper pipe do it all day - ever hear about a plumber spending two
>years practicing before he fixes the broken pipe in your bathroom?
Plumbers do not BRAZE plumbing, they SOLDER it. Similar process,
but different enough to be significant.
Making bike frames is easiest with brazing paste - as used in "furnace
brazing". Smear it on, put the joint together, mark the joint with a
temp crayon, and heat untill the proper temp is reached (indicated by
the crayon "going off") and the job is done.
"Plumbers" also have difficulty with chromed pipes.
>
> Speaking of weird stays, there's one of these parking in the rack
> outside where I work - set up for touring duty w/ drop bars:
>
> http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/nishiki_alien_sale_3_143.jpg
They where done like that to prevent the problem of the chain getting
stuck between the tyre and chainstay and to avoid mud building up
between the chainstays.
--
Andy Morris
Andy dot Jinkas at Googlemail
The point being FEA capability allows some room for experimentation
before building and testing, if that is what someone wants. The
Reynolds FEA tool is for custom frame builders, some of whom do not only
build standard frame designs.
I don't see the availability of FEA as a bad thing, regardless of
whether it is "necessary" or not.
--
JS
Precisely. I believe the flex *is* intentional.
> Here are some properly designed crossframe bikes
> http://www.utopia-velo.de/relaunch/index.a4d
> I especially like the Roadster.
I didn't see that coming ;-)
--
JS.
> In fact, thinking the matter over, I can't see how cutting a weld
> would show much about the weld that you couldn't see from the surface.
> Certainly you can see undercutting, lack of penetration, insufficient
> filler and uneven ripple from the surface.
Plenty of "good looking" welds can still have internal flaws.
John B. wrote:
-snip-
> A novice? Perhaps. On the other hand he/she might very well be someone
> with a background in metal working and needed no additional knowledge
> to assemble a frame. (Note I am not talking about designing a bicycle,
> only the skills necessary to put the frame together).
-snip-
Indeed, this is a one-off by a Milwaukee machinist built for
his brother before WWII:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/aerg.html