harbor freight vulcanizer
Gary Young
repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes
with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little
while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is
in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this
device might be of help:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757
That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
AMuzi
No, it won't.
Switch from an abrasive technique to a solvent cleaning
before applying cement. If there's a Tech Supply guy in your
area, have him stop (Tech sells from route trucks). That's
what they do and they do it well.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
thirty-six
Possibly. I can vaguely remember car tyre repairs taking 15 minutes
and that was before one touch jacks, impact wrench and powered tyre
remover/resetters. I think its a nice gadget and probably worth its
weight for a commercial operator, if only they'd do tube repairs.
It's good because you can patch the typical undersize tubes and the
patches will hold. With the rubbersolution/contact adhesive applied
patches they will creep on an undersized tube.
As well as tubes, the iron may also be able to apply patches to a tyre
casing otherwise saving a newish tyre from being discarded due to a
small cut that the tube would otherwise poke through and repeatedly
puncture.
As far as regular patching goes, what seems to make the biggest
difference in reliability is whether you clean the tube with spirit or
not. Since cleaning the patch area with spirit I have not had a
failure. Other points are to apply the thinnest smear of solution to
the tube and let it dry fully before removing the foil from the
patch. If when you dab the supposedly dried solution with a finger it
lifts, it isn't dry yet, leave it a bit longer. There is no real
maximum time in leaviong the dried solution although contact adhesive
instructions generally say to close the joint within half an hour
(with a spirit solution). Burnish the patch after application.
carl...@comcast.net
wrote:
Dear Gary,
A refresher course (and maybe a new can of tire cement) would be
cheaper and probably more effective.
If your volunteers can't cold-patch tubes, it's not likely that
they'll master that tempting gizmo.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
thirty-six
Er, I missed a not so little point "Round curing head: 3-1/8"
diameter" Rather large for a bicycle tyre or tube.
JRE
Several Boy Scouts in our troop patched two inner tubes 4 times each
over the past few weeks using only what comes in a regular patch
kit--sandpaper, cement, and patches. (They weren't the first--these are
wheels from a bike my son bent the frame on hitting a tree and have
served in this way before Sooner or later they'll be patching the
patches!) I just had them read and follow the directions and helped
nudge one or two of them on back course as needed.
None had ever patched a tube before.
The tires were blown up to 75PSI every time they were patched, most
recently a week ago last night, with no leaks. They were still tight as
a drum last night, a week later (and I complimented the scouts on their
patching technique).
I'm thinking the refresher training is all you really *need*, but maybe
some of the other suggestions offer less opportunity for error, which
with unsupervised volunteers could be the way to go.
--
John Eells
Stephen Bauman
I posted my technique for patching tubes with cold vulcanizing solution
back in April.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/ddbd01dbd887405c
I still stand by it. I've patched around 100 since this was written.
There was rain on most of the rides where I was a mechanic this year. It
was punctured followed by squeaking chains.
You really need to be specific about how the leaks re-appeared. It could
be that you did not find all the holes, you missed the hole when you
applied the patch or the patch failed.
I do use a bucket of water to find punctures and to make sure they are
all patched before using them. I did go over my technique for centering
the patch on the puncture in the above link.
There are several reasons why a patch might fail. The tube might not have
been cleaned before applying the vulcanizing fluid. Mr. Muzi suggested
buffing compound rather than sand paper. This is what he is referring to:
http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=12
You also have to make sure that your vulcanizing fluid is fresh,
especially if you are using cold vulcanizing fluid from an 8 oz can. I do
not keep vulcanizing fluid more than 1 season. Ditto for the patches.
You also have to make sure that the applied vulcanizing fluid is dry
before you apply the patch. My application technique is designed to
minimize drying time. N.B. what Rema says about what happens if you try
to hurry drying the cold vulcanizing fluid. Patience is a virtue.
http://www.rematiptop.com/technical/trm/technical_bulletins/RTTNA-003-TB-
Effects-of-Artificial-Drying-of-the-Cement.pdf
You want to make sure that the edges of the patch are vulcanized to the
tube. This is difficult if the patch is larger than the flattened tube.
Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm diameter
patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the box of 100
patches.
You also need to burnish the patches from the center outwards. This also
insures that the patch edges are vulcanized to the tube.
Finally, don't pull the cellophane cover from the outside. Slit it in the
center and roll it off from the center to the edge.
The patches should be ready to roll and be permanent, if these tips are
followed.
Stephen Bauman
DirtRoadie
> Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm diameter
> patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the box of 100
> patches.
Agreed. Where? Sources seem to come and go.
DR
carl...@comcast.net
Dear D,
The smooth-edge f0p Rema patch is nominally 20mm:
The scallop-edge f1p Rema patch is nominally 25mm:
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Stephen Bauman
As was pointed out in the original thread in April, Bike Tools Etc, got
the wrong size for the F0-p patches.
http://www.rematiptop.com/part.php?pid=1&cid=1&sid=1
You can also verify this by measuring them (even those you may get from
Bike Tools, Etc.)
Stephen Bauman
thirty-six
think the buffing compound is specific for use with a buffing stone.
The use of which is probably most suitable for the OP to ensure
absolute reliability with patching technique. A spotless clean and
dry brush (possibly like a cane flux brush, throw it out at the end of
the day) is required to remove the abraded dust following the use of
the stone.
On 30 Oct, 03:22, Stephen Bauman <sbau...@abt.net> wrote:
> You also have to make sure that your vulcanizing fluid is fresh,
> especially if you are using cold vulcanizing fluid from an 8 oz can. I do
> not keep vulcanizing fluid more than 1 season. Ditto for the patches.
Size your can of rubber solution according to your usage. I doubt
whether it is important to use the exact rubber solution specifically
for the patch, but if you're having problems or working in a testing
environment then use the recommended solution. Always replace the cap
immeadiately. The smallest cans are probably best for less
concientious workers else evaporation of the solvent will leave the
solution to tviscous and difficult to apply in the thin layer
necessary for limiting the effects of poor cohesion of the adhesive
with a cold patch system.
Rema, the puncture supplies specialist advise a warm shop and five
minutes minimum drying time. Put a cup over the patch area so
accidental contamination is less likely.
> http://www.rematiptop.com/technical/trm/technical_bulletins/RTTNA-003...
> Effects-of-Artificial-Drying-of-the-Cement.pdf
>
> You want to make sure that the edges of the patch are vulcanized to the
> tube. This is difficult if the patch is larger than the flattened tube.
Roll the tube as you go over the patch.
I like to use a teaspoon for burnishing, fits my hand well, at least
with cotton tape beefing up the handle.
If your using patches with cellophane on the back, such as the Tip Top
brand then it will roll up on its own when you have given it
sufficient burnishing. I do not pull off the cellophane, its presence
means I have not completed the burnishing.
landotter
service??? :-)
+2 for solvent---though emery paper works fine IME.
DirtRoadie
> The smooth-edge f0p Rema patch is nominally 20mm:
That may be, but I'd love to find some @ an actual 16mm - probably
would not be Remas. I have had them on and off over the years, I
presently have a dwindling stash of some that are roughly 18mm.
The smallest ones just seem to do the job best and easiest for the
pinholes which constitute the majority of my punctures, both road and
MTB.
DR
thirty-six
> Size your can of rubber solution according to your usage. I doubt
> whether it is important to use the exact rubber solution specifically
> for the patch, but if you're having problems or working in a testing
> environment then use the recommended solution.
Apparently the Tip Top cold vulcanizing flui8d works in 24hrs. I dont
know whether it is essential to vulcanize (and how can you VULCANize
without heat?) the cement layer, I have used straight rubber solution/
contact adhesive and all seems well. But then again I dont test my
patches by peeling them off. Perhaps if you need to try to peel your
patches you should make sure they are vulcanized.
> Always replace the cap
> immeadiately. The smallest cans
75g
> are probably best for less
> concientious workers else evaporation of the solvent will leave the
> solution to tviscous and difficult to apply in the thin layer
> necessary for limiting the effects of poor cohesion of the adhesive
> with a cold patch system.
Of course this may not be too relevant if you use a thick layer of
cement and leave it to vulcanize (24hrs) before using. I'm guessing
the activator for vulcanisation is in the patch and this could be why
I've been able to use normal contact adhesive and have good results.
>
> I like to use a teaspoon for burnishing, fits my hand well, at least
> with cotton tape beefing up the handle.
It seems Rema Tip Top have a tool they call a stitcher for pressing
the patch. A 35mm wheel with a handle.
Here's the English language site they've set up for bicycles in
Europe
http://www.rema-tiptop.co.uk/portal/home-bicycle.html
I note that they catalogue metal valve caps for presta valves. These
can be useful in balancing a wheel.
DougC
Somewhat OT, but in the early days of my youth (I just turned 40, BTW) I
seem to recall tire patching-kits where there was a little metal tray
you held over the hole, a patch fit into it somehow, and you had to
light the thing with a match and let it burn for a few seconds for it to
work.
I remember these devices because (after I learned to do it myself) this
was the only reason that adults at the time would let me have "my own"
matches. A couple other people the same age as me said they never heard
of such a thing.
What were these things called, and where did they all go? Or have I just
gone soft in the head again?
~
thirty-six
I've seen it done. Upon closer inspection the repairer was using
matches and a teaspoon in one repair and a cigarette lighter on
another,both preheating the spoon. I think it is possible that a
crown cap from a beer bottle will provide sufficient heat energy if a
flame can be directed onto it (a gas flame from a lighter) now and
again during the heating of a vulcanising patch. Pressure needs to be
applied to the iron to ensure the bonding of the adhesive layer. I
have been looking through some online Tip Top documents and it appears
that their patches can be (hot) vulcanized, although I have not had
issue with their cold cure system. I have a patch in a tubular made
from latex emulsion and stuck with latex emulsion. It's been in for
300 miles with no evidence of leakage. I was exceptionally careful
about preperation of the tube, the repair done in almost laboratory
conditions. It does not seem that vulcanization (or cold curing) is
essential for an effective repair.
Zinc oxide is used as an accelerant for the vulcanizing process and I
wonder whether a smear of zinc oxide paste (as in medical supply)
would have been applied to the tube before the patch (with latex and
sulpher) is applied and heated.
carl...@comcast.net
wrote:
Dear Doug,
The once-common hot vulcanizing patches used mostly for cars have
vanished from the US, possibly due to health concerns:
http://forums.aaca.org/f169/vulcanizing-tire-patches-tube-repair-268643.html
As that thread points out, hot vulcanizing patches are still produced
and sold under license in some other countries. Click on "products"
for a few more details:
http://www.camel.com.co/index_eng.html
The electric vulcanizing tool in the original post heats with
electricity instead of combustion and is just a small version of the
commonplace vulcanizer used mostly for auto tire repair:
http://www.rema-tiptop.de/downloads/products_automotive/Thermopress-Junior-EN.pdf
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
AMuzi
Hot Patch Kit, long obviated by Cold Patch systems
Jobst Brandt
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757
Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch representative
at InterBike two years ago who was unaware of the purpose of
installation of his product. He was not aware of why sandpaper is
used to CLEAN the tube at the puncture and was unaware of applying the
patch before the rubber cement is fully dry, having never heard of van
der Waals forces and how adhesives work.
After applying a patch to a tube he had as demonstrator, following the
wide spread mis-beliefs installing the patch and not removing the
cellophane, he handed me the "perfectly patched example" from which I
instantly pulled off the patch and handed it to him to his amazement.
I'm sure he never heard of what is in the following FAQ item:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
again.
Gary Young wrote: That page claims the patch would be cured in five
minutes -- true?
JB: Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch
representative
Etc.. etc... etc...
Which I have yet to see in this oft repeated story what that has to do
with a hot press for vulcanizing repairs.
Wonder whether it cooks burgers well.
Gary Young
Yes, but the machine at the link above applies pressure and heat to the
patch and tube:
"Automatic setting repairs inner tube punctures in just five minutes.
* Large 6" throat makes it easy to apply heat sealed patches to any size
inner tube
* Snap-type thermostat reaches curing temperature quickly
* Includes two curing heads: round head for small punctures and an oval
head for longer tears
* Manual setting allows longer application of heat if necessary"
I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing bike
tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful.
At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent
recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
Jobst Brandt
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757
That's old automobile technology and does not make a patch that is
permanently held, not readily removable.
Those who have tried to remove a well cured REMA parch can recall that
they are not manually removable. Of course most REMA patches are not
well cured because they are applied to dried up rubber cement.
>> I'm sure he never heard of what is in the following FAQ item:
>> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and effective...
and not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride a freshly
patched tube! The test of placing a common cardboard business card
between tube and tread ought to make that apparent.
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing bike
> tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful.
Indeed it may be. You can test your repairs when the rubber has
cooled. You should not do this with cold cure patching. Preperation
time is otherwise similar. It may be worthwhile to note that the cold
cure rubber solution may be sensitive to shelf life and to check
manufacturers date codes.
thirty-six
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757
>
> That's old automobile technology and does not make a patch that is
> permanently held, not readily removable.
That's because it needs the assistance of a concientous worker. These
are still used to effect inner tube repairs to motor cycles and plant
machinery.
> Those who have tried to remove a well cured REMA parch can recall that
> they are not manually removable. Of course most REMA patches are not
> well cured because they are applied to dried up rubber cement.
Stuff and nonsense. If the rubber solution had dried up, you could
not get it out the tube or can.
> I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and effective...
> and not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride a freshly
> patched tube! The test of placing a common cardboard business card
> between tube and tread ought to make that apparent.
What, that you still cant patch a tube correctly, so that is is usable
immediately?
Gary Young
Yes, I agree. However, since we don't have much of a budget for spare
parts, we often run out of tubes and by necessity have to put a newly
patched tube right back in.
That leads to another question -- is it OK to re-inflate a newly-patched
tube as long as one doesn't ride it?
thirty-six
Yes, as long as the tube is a close fit to the tyre size then you may
inflate and ride a well repaired tube.
Jobst Brandt
>> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in
>> repairing bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be
>> helpful.
Because it will most likely generate a slow leak, even one that
requires pumping every other day.
> Indeed it may be. You can test your repairs when the rubber has
> cooled. You should not do this with cold cure patching.
Bad advice! Of course if you can give a scientific explanation what
your favorite process accomplishes, it might be slightly more
believable. My experience arose from replacing patches on poorly
patched tubes of riders who learned how to boot, patch, and re-tube
tubulars at tire patch classes I gave. Subsequently clincher repairs
became necessary when tubulars went out of use.
> Preparation time is otherwise similar. It may be worthwhile to note
> that the cold cure rubber solution may be sensitive to shelf life
> and to check manufacturers date codes.
Cooled? Don't heat inner tubes when patching. Use REMA the best
patches available and put them in place as described in the FAQ.
Sheldon Brown did not put all that information in the FAQ for naught.
>> At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent
>> recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
I don't know what the solvent is supposed to do, but sand paper and
REMA patch cement work well enough to make patch removal highly
difficult. As I said, a domed patch gets that way from not being
uniformly adhering to the inner tube.
Jobst Brandt
Jobst Brandt
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
Have you tried this?
As I explained, a freshly patched tube is diagonally massaged by the
bias ply of the tire when it rolls under load, hence the business card
test that shreds the card into fine confetti. This action loosens the
patch from the tube in its center where air pressure can get between
patch and tube through the puncture... while it is being massaged.
As I explained previously, REMA patches have a perforation across the
center of the cellophane backing for a good reason that the original
REMA engineers recognized. The perforation is there to enable the
user to break the cellophane cover and peel it from its center to its
edge. If this is tried in reverse, the patch will peel off.
Once peeled, the patch can cure and adhere to the point of not being
removable, while freshly applied patches separate easily as the
designers of the cellophane cover knew.
--
Jobst Brandt
Jobst Brandt
>>> I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and
>>> effective... and not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride
>>> a freshly patched tube!
>> Yes, I agree. However, since we don't have much of a budget for
>> spare parts, we often run out of tubes and by necessity have to put
>> a newly patched tube right back in.
>> That leads to another question -- is it OK to re-inflate a
>> newly-patched tube as long as one doesn't ride it?
> Yes, as long as the tube is a close fit to the tyre size then you
> may inflate and ride a well repaired tube.
We don't ride no closely fitting tubes, not that close because that
will cause a wrinkle and pinch flats on assembly. For this reason,
tubes should be slightly undersized so that tubes stretch to fill the
tire casing both in the major and minor diameter. Of course this was
all well known back in olden times when we patched car tire tubes and
this was well understood.
--
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
> As I explained, a freshly patched tube is diagonally massaged by the
> bias ply of the tire when it rolls under load, hence the business card
> test that shreds the card into fine confetti. This action loosens the
> patch from the tube in its center where air pressure can get between
> patch and tube through the puncture... while it is being massaged.
Only when you use too much rubber solution and leave it wet. The tube
must be cleaned (with naptha) it then may be roughened with a fine
abrasive only if the dust is brushed clear with a clean brush. The
thinnest smear of rubber solution left to dry. You have easily a half
hour open joint time in which to apply the patch. This is documented
for many contact adhesives of which rubber cement in a bicycle
puncture kit is just one. Apply centre of patch first, spread out and
burnish from the centr out. The pressure applied during burnishing is
an armful on a few sq mm.
>
> As I explained previously, REMA patches have a perforation across the
> center of the cellophane backing for a good reason that the original
> REMA engineers recognized. The perforation is there to enable the
> user to break the cellophane cover and peel it from its center to its
> edge. If this is tried in reverse, the patch will peel off.
No the cellophane peels when sufficient burnishing has been performed.
>
> Once peeled, the patch can cure and adhere to the point of not being
> removable, while freshly applied patches separate easily as the
> designers of the cellophane cover knew.
If the rubber solution is dry before closure of the joint, then there
is no solvent to evaporate. And it wont fully evaporate through the
patch or tube in 24hrs if assembled wet.
carl...@comcast.net
[snip]
Dear Jobst,
Huh?
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
thirty-six
It seems you're up to your old tricks of misattributation again. Your
responses are garbled. They do not follow.
The use of a solvent such as naptha will remove the grease and dust
and prepare the rubber by partially disolving the surface. Repeated
application of naptha is as least as good as cleaning with a alcohol
and using a fine abrasive followed by clearing the dust with a clean
(use solvent and cloth) brush. Even if you insist on using an
abrasive for preparation you should use the solvent first to keep the
abrasive free from the grease on the tube. To not do so means you
will recontaminate the tube with the grease now on the abrasive.
As far as domed patches go, it doesnt matter. The advice for larger
tubes is to cut a circular hole to surround the puncture. I have done
this for a bicycle tube when using a large thick patch. A pair of
pointed nail scissors will do the trick and are also useful when you
want to cut small patches from a larger one.
Gary Young
I haven't tried this for myself, but I have no reason to doubt you on
that score. My question, though, was whether merely inflating the tire
will tend to cause liftoff of the patch if the bike is not ridden until
the patch has cured. The fact that you attribute the problem to the
massaging that takes place when the tire is under load leads me to think
that inflating the tire but not applying a load would not cause problems.
However, I'd like to be sure that's so.
AMuzi
>>> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in
>>> repairing bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be
>>> helpful.
Jobst Brandt wrote:
> Because it will most likely generate a slow leak, even one that
> requires pumping every other day.
>> Indeed it may be. You can test your repairs when the rubber has
>> cooled. You should not do this with cold cure patching.
> Bad advice! Of course if you can give a scientific explanation what
> your favorite process accomplishes, it might be slightly more
> believable. My experience arose from replacing patches on poorly
> patched tubes of riders who learned how to boot, patch, and re-tube
> tubulars at tire patch classes I gave. Subsequently clincher repairs
> became necessary when tubulars went out of use.
>> Preparation time is otherwise similar. It may be worthwhile to note
>> that the cold cure rubber solution may be sensitive to shelf life
>> and to check manufacturers date codes.
> Cooled? Don't heat inner tubes when patching. Use REMA the best
> patches available and put them in place as described in the FAQ.
> Sheldon Brown did not put all that information in the FAQ for naught.
>>> At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent
>>> recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
> I don't know what the solvent is supposed to do, but sand paper and
> REMA patch cement work well enough to make patch removal highly
> difficult. As I said, a domed patch gets that way from not being
> uniformly adhering to the inner tube.
We don't disagree on the concepts but a solvent wipe will
remove much more contamination much more quickly and I
believe more thoroughly than an abrasive technique. Which is
why car/moto tire shops use Tech patch buffer. A clean cloth
will be completely blackened with a quick wipe over a couple
square inches of the typical bicycle tube.
(bicycle service time to patch costs too much in comparison
to our cheap inner tubes)
Dan O
Absolutely right - from a job costing standpoint, but a little of the
amateur's time spent patching his own rotation of inner tubes has a
couple of benefits. It keeps you practiced for if and when you must
patch in the field, doesn't let those road hazards get the better of
you, and "experienced" serviceable components lend anthropomorphic
character to the overall apparatus.
thirty-six
> I haven't tried this for myself, but I have no reason to doubt you on
> that score. My question, though, was whether merely inflating the tire
> will tend to cause liftoff of the patch if the bike is not ridden until
> the patch has cured. The fact that you attribute the problem to the
> massaging that takes place when the tire is under load leads me to think
> that inflating the tire but not applying a load would not cause problems.
> However, I'd like to be sure that's so.
Not too good at the card table, eh?
Arthur Shapiro
protrusions on most tubes, which by Murphy's Law will occur within the area of
a patch, I don't understand how folks can assert that it's the method of
choice.
I'll continue to use a sanding or abrasive wheel in a Dremel tool. A few
seconds of effort and one has a nicely matte area ready to receive the
vulcanizing fluid.
Art
thirty-six
Always bought Vredstein / Raleigh when I could. No moulding seams and
a good tough butyl tube. I'm predominantly on tubs and there's no
seams on them either. Even on the tubes I have with seams, Michelin I
think, they are so thin that the greasy finish is more of a problem so
degreasing has a higher prominence. It's easier to wipe naptha over
a tube than mess about with a small piece of abrasive when on the
road.
Jobst Brandt
>>>> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in
>>>> repairing bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be
>>>> helpful.
>> Because it will most likely generate a slow leak, even one that
Residual solvent and damage to the tube make adhering poorer than sand
paper method. The thought of chemicals appeals to many users,
especially because it takes less work.
> (bicycle service time to patch costs too much in comparison to our
> cheap inner tubes)
I wasn't contending cost but performance and experience with failed
and secure patches.
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
The softening of the rubber's surface by naptha encourages bonding
with the rubber solvent. This works with all tube rubber. Wipe it,
leave it to dry, rub a little more naptha, look for evidence of
solution of rubber. The patch rubber solution will likely use a
combination of naptha and acetone, using the same to prepare the tube
can only encourage adhesion for it wets the tube and its evaporation
through the solution will draw the solution tighter to the tube. It
is not a contaminant but an aid to adhesion. Pre-wetting a surface
which will draw the wetting agent into the substrate or where the
wetting agent can evaporate through the cement is basic adhesives
application. If you had failures, they were not due to using my
described method, you must have used it wrong.
AMuzi
In the OPs situation a solvent wipe seems sensible and
probably also for the guy who carries patched tubes on the
road and patches them later at home.
Chalo
>
> ...a solvent wipe will
> remove much more contamination much more quickly and I
> believe more thoroughly than an abrasive technique. Which is
> why car/moto tire shops use Tech patch buffer. A clean cloth
> will be completely blackened with a quick wipe over a couple
> square inches of the typical bicycle tube.
What solvent do you use? I tried oldfangled brake cleaner the other
day, and it seemed to work but the cancer was a buzzkill.
Chalo
AMuzi
>> ...a solvent wipe will
>> remove much more contamination much more quickly and I
>> believe more thoroughly than an abrasive technique. Which is
>> why car/moto tire shops use Tech patch buffer. A clean cloth
>> will be completely blackened with a quick wipe over a couple
>> square inches of the typical bicycle tube.
Chalo wrote:
> What solvent do you use? I tried oldfangled brake cleaner the other
> day, and it seemed to work but the cancer was a buzzkill.
Try this:
http://www.tireresources.com/ChemicalsLube.html
thirty-six
> > AMuzi wrote:
> >> ...a solvent wipe will
> >> remove much more contamination much more quickly and I
> >> believe more thoroughly than an abrasive technique. Which is
> >> why car/moto tire shops use Tech patch buffer. A clean cloth
> >> will be completely blackened with a quick wipe over a couple
> >> square inches of the typical bicycle tube.
> Chalo wrote:
> > What solvent do you use? I tried oldfangled brake cleaner the other
> > day, and it seemed to work but the cancer was a buzzkill.
>
> Try this:http://www.tireresources.com/ChemicalsLube.html
>
what are its constituents?
mjenk...@gmail.com
<snip>
> what are its constituents?
http://www.31inc.com/msds/msds14-100.doc
Mike Jenkins
thirty-six
Their patch repair for a tyre casing.
7. Center the patch over the injury on the inside
of the tire and outline an area 1/4” larger
than the patch to define the area to be
mechanically buffed.
8. Using liquid buffer/cleaner and an innerliner
scraper, thoroughly clean the outlined area,
removing all mold lubricants, dirt, and debris.
9. Using a low speed buffer, mechanically buff
the outlined area to an even velvety textured
finish. Be careful not to buff through the
innerliner and expose the fabric portion of
the tire. Vacuum away any buffing debris.
10.Apply a thin coat of chemical vulcanizing
cement to the prepared area of the innerliner
using the brush applicator in a stippling
motion. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly
before installing the repair unit.
11. Remove the protective backing from the
patch.
12.Place it on the innerliner centered over the
insert.
13.Press out any trapped air.
14.Using a roller stitcher, stitch the patch down
firmly to the innerliner by working from the
center outward.
For tube repair you either "keyhole the ends of a cut" or cut out a
round hole. Small punctures of a tube which have not made significant
injury to the tyre casing dont need any cutting out, usually. There
are projectiles which may cause greater interior damage, I suggest the
best tactic here is to pedal hard for exit cover.