Replace cantilevers with V brakes?
Bob Lambert
case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the
cantilevers and mount V brakes?
AMuzi
Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances
aren't an issue.
AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Peter Cole
Yes.
Nate Nagel
BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them
to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had
V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis
so I could actually stop quickly.)
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
landotter
> Peter Cole wrote:
> > Bob Lambert wrote:
> >> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually
> >> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the
> >> cantilevers and mount V brakes?
>
> > Yes.
>
> BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them
> to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had
> V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis
> so I could actually stop quickly.)
>
Tektro RL520 levers are $25 and pull vees or cable discs great. Much
comfier than the long pull Dia Compes, IMHO.
Nate Nagel
You're ASSuming he doesn't have brifters. But yes, I have no experience
actually using them, but I have whatever the short pull version of those
brakes are laying around here somewhere and they look very nice, sturdy
and comfortable - and the price was astonishing. They even have a QR
built in. The only reason I didn't use 'em was because I found a pair
of NOS Dia-Compe non-aero levers for even less, and using cantis I
didn't need the QR.
I also have some matching Tektro wide cantis, price was equally
astonishing, just so I'd have them in case I found a problem with my
original Dia-Compe brakes. I think all in for the complete braking
system I paid $50 or so. How do they make it so cheap? Hell, a set of
Kool-Stop pads would about double the value of the setup.
landotter
> Bob Lambert wrote:
> > The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the
> > case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the
> > cantilevers and mount V brakes?
>
> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances
> aren't an issue.
> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio
cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is
to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
Nate Nagel
I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis
it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately
discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little
disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull
"stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
It's Chris
Date: Wed, Nov 4, 2009, 7:06pm
From: njn...@roosters.net (Nate Nagel)
>You're ASSuming he doesn't have
>brifters.
You mean some people actually still use those silly things ;-3) <JK>
- -
Compliments of:
"Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"
If you want to E-mail me use:
ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net
It's Chris
name for V-brakes). they work ok with a cable pull enhancer
(A.K.A.Travel Agent). even better when paired with the enhanced pull of
Dia Compe cantilever or linear pull levers.
What I have now is a linear pull specially made for road bikes,
manufactured by Tektro:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR407A03-Tektro+926A+Mini+L-Pull.aspx
"Mini-Lini's" I call them. I still use the Travel Agent on the rear to
make up for cable stretch, but the front runs straight trough on the big
pulley only, it doesn't need any enhancement. I'm using the Dia Compe
Cantilever model levers, and neither one bottoms out unless I squeeze
the hand levers with suicidal force. They work great, it takes very
squeeze to stop the bike with these.
Tosspot
I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some
mini V's. Any recommendations?
landotter
Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and
prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire. If you're
unhappy with the Oryx brakes--try a different set of brake shoes on
one end and see how that might help. If it's really the brake that
pisses you off, try some different Tektro arms on there, like the more
traditional geometry of the CR720. IMHO, if you're going to go linear
pull brake, get the regular long arm Tektros--they're fantastic, but
do require a long pull lever.
N8N
I've heard negative comments about the Oryx before, but I bought them
before I knew better (I figured stock would be at least adequate... I
know, not always a good assumption.) I wasn't happy with them with
the Tektro pads but with Kool Stops I felt no need to go any farther.
nate
Tosspot
Yep, that seems to be the order of the day, so Kool Stop Salmons will
be ordered.
pdxrandonneur
The performance on my RL520s was great, until they fell apart. I have
had both of the tektro road levers, the R200a and the RL520, fail
under the same conditions, within the same time frame and the same
way. First the quick release button eats a hole into the plastic body
and you are riding in quick release all the time. Next the plastic
body starts to disintegrate and the entire brake lever comes out. I am
a hard user, but that just means that I ride a lot and use my brakes a
lot, not that the brakes get smashed or beaten up. Both of the levers
failed within two years for simply being ridden on. The basic problem
is that brake levers should be made out of metal, not plastic. I
replaced the Tektros with the Dia Compes, and now wish I had bought
those first.
-Rando
Ozark Bicycle
That ain't necessarily so.....I just built up a ca 1992 C'dale T2000
touring frame using Tektro 926A mini-Vs. 35mm Paselas (on 622 rims)
and 45mm PB fenders - the wire easily clears the fender. (Now, using
any V brake in the front of this bike is a PIA due to the narrowness
of the Tange steel fork - but I prevailed.)
[...]
landotter
I've had the r200a's on two bikes with no problem. Probably not the
mileage as you, as both bikes have been fair weather rides in
retrospect--but I did manage to nearly wear out the hoods on a set
before I sold off that bike. Could it be the Portland grit, or what?
I'm no luddite and find no offense at the plastics--but I have and did
make a habit of lubing the bits quite regularly with the Dupont stuff.
Quick releases saw a good bit of use and I pushed and reinserted the
pivot pins a few times when I used them as dummy lever on a fixed
gear.
Still my favorite plain road levers, though I'm curious what your
variable in destruction was.
landotter
No kidding? My experience with these things is purely observational,
to be honest. The ones I've looked at have been on flat bar go fast
rigs. Usually with 28-32mm tires. Looked way too tight for fenders. So
much for observational skills. <g>
What's your opinion about brake levers appropriate to pull the little
forkers?
RonSonic
I'm using Tektro Drop V levers. Haven't worn mine out either.
--
Oh damn. There's that annoying blog. Again. http://dumbbikeblog.blogspot.com
Ozark Bicycle
There is no "kidding" on RBT! This is a serious forum where serious
folk share serious "facts" and "data" about serious bicycle matters.
Seriously! If you don't have the "facts" or the "data", don't post
here! <g>
> My experience with these things is purely observational,
> to be honest. The ones I've looked at have been on flat bar go fast
> rigs. Usually with 28-32mm tires. Looked way too tight for fenders. So
> much for observational skills. <g>
Clearance will be a matter of the location of the brake mounts. Most
OEM and aftermarket forks are probably fine in this regard. The rear
might be a crapshoot, depending on the frame.
>
> What's your opinion about brake levers appropriate to pull the little
> forkers?
The aforementioned C'dale uses vintage Shimano aero levers (BL-L331).
Another recent build uses the Tektro mini-Vs with ca 2006 Campy
Centaur Ergo levers. So, IME, regular ol' road levers work fine.
Bob Lambert
Well, it's a sort of scrap heap challenge and not for me!