RAIN RAIN RAIN...roads are washed clean. The wax lube used on muh Redline Cyclocrosser now min short haul road lawn berm use age staying clean, after 4 weeks evaporating, absolving, thrown off and HARDER.
So skipping cleaning, I used an evolved technique using CRC HD Silicone (WalMart) for loosening the in place Pedro's 2.0 wax lube. And Finish Line Wax with Teflon...with a ball bearing inside for a shaker via the Gilmores at Loosescrews.
The FL goes on rollers when rollers look to shiny. The resultant mix of Pedro and FL DOES GET THE ROLLERS COATED....more than Pedro alone. Pedro plus burro.
The CRC is commonly used over FL eg at cable stops, grip joints...makes a nice spray over the Pedro ed cogs.
Wipe chain with CHOH plus paper towel...add Pedro's on rollers bottom inside chain...spray side plates with CRC using red tube (cut if half with razor blade)
Spray cogs. Add Pedro to CR tips...smear with fingah.
On Oct 10, 5:18 pm, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> freshening a wax chain lube with CRC HD Silicone is educational.
> You ask why is this ?
> Well, ride the wax, spray, ride sprayed wax: difference tween wet oil lube and dry wax chain lube.
Do you put something behind the chain to catch overspray? (Oil on
tires is bad enough, but wax - especially on the side where it won't
wear off until you lean over and... )
On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:36:18 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> yeah paper but use the red pipe, spray downward or directly to sideplates UP NEAR THE CR'S
> then wipe the braking surfaces down with Isopropyl or CHOH.
> Wet a paper towel wad, place against rim surface n walk bike forward...change PT twice.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
OFF COURSE THE OP EXISTS for seperating parts for a friction comparison. EG, sprayed only cassette cogs with that chain area. superduper friction lose.
On Saturday, October 13, 2012 7:58:35 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:36:18 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > yeah paper but use the red pipe, spray downward or directly to sideplates UP NEAR THE CR'S
> > then wipe the braking surfaces down with Isopropyl or CHOH.
> > Wet a paper towel wad, place against rim surface n walk bike forward...change PT twice.
> ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
> OFF COURSE THE OP EXISTS for seperating parts for a friction comparison. EG, sprayed only cassette cogs with that chain area. superduper friction lose.
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
the concept flows well, comntinues pleasiiiiiinnnnngggggg
a word on Wal CRC silicone. Using it for smi cleaning of small parts AAA.
Bike and shop. My jigsaw's blade mechnaism jammed. Streams of CRC and a sharp awl poking around freed the blade.
excellent for dispersing/reliquifying sun fried wax lubes
> On Saturday, October 13, 2012 7:58:35 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:36:18 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > > yeah paper but use the red pipe, spray downward or directly to sideplates UP NEAR THE CR'S
> > > then wipe the braking surfaces down with Isopropyl or CHOH.
> > > Wet a paper towel wad, place against rim surface n walk bike forward...change PT twice.
> > ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
> > OFF COURSE THE OP EXISTS for seperating parts for a friction comparison. EG, sprayed only cassette cogs with that chain area. superduper friction lose.
> NNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
> the concept flows well, comntinues pleasiiiiiinnnnngggggg
> a word on Wal CRC silicone. Using it for smi cleaning of small parts AAA.
> Bike and shop. My jigsaw's blade mechnaism jammed. Streams of CRC and a sharp awl poking around freed the blade.
> excellent for dispersing/reliquifying sun fried wax lubes
I have an anecdote about Dumonde Tech:
The stuff is supposed to "bond" and/or "plate" metal parts - that's
it's key "tech", I think. In use it acts like smelly oil, but does
seem to last better than, say, motor oil.
I noticed that if I took a dirty chain off and let it soak in mineral
spirits for more than a part of a day, the gunky lube turned kind of
plasticky and wouldn't brush off; whereas if I took a dirty chain off,
soaked for a few hours, and then scrubbed, ti would come up shiny
clean.
Last week I had two chains to clean - one just off the bike, the other
had been sitting coiled in the garage for a couple of weeks. Soaked
them together for a few hours, and scrubbed them both. The one fresh
off the bike came up shiny clean; the one that had been sitting didn't
(still kind of greasy w/ plasticky residue).
But I put the still smeary chain on the bike, since it was the older
in rotation, and applied fresh lube as usual since the scrubbing had
at least cleared the crusty stuff off the outside.
This chain ran a couple of hours in the rain, and still doesn't need
re-lubed. It's like maybe the smeary residue acts like sticky waxy
grease to seal a little better, maybe.
The phenomenon of a chain sitting (either in air or mineral spirits)
turning plasticky is interesting. It's like as long as the chain is
being run on the bike every day the lube stays solvent. I may have to
try cleaning chains shiny clean, then putting them on a bike w/ clean
sprockets to lube, wiping the outside, then hanging them up for later
use. (As it is I have been hanging them clean and dry and lubing when
installing to ride.)
> On Oct 31, 3:59 pm, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > On Saturday, October 13, 2012 7:58:35 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:36:18 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > > > yeah paper but use the red pipe, spray downward or directly to sideplates UP NEAR THE CR'S
> > > > then wipe the braking surfaces down with Isopropyl or CHOH.
> > > > Wet a paper towel wad, place against rim surface n walk bike forward...change PT twice.
> > > ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
> > > OFF COURSE THE OP EXISTS for seperating parts for a friction comparison. EG, sprayed only cassette cogs with that chain area. superduper friction lose.
> > NNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
> > the concept flows well, comntinues pleasiiiiiinnnnngggggg
> > a word on Wal CRC silicone. Using it for smi cleaning of small parts AAA.
> > Bike and shop. My jigsaw's blade mechnaism jammed. Streams of CRC and a sharp awl poking around freed the blade.
> > excellent for dispersing/reliquifying sun fried wax lubes
> I have an anecdote about Dumonde Tech:
> The stuff is supposed to "bond" and/or "plate" metal parts - that's
> it's key "tech", I think. In use it acts like smelly oil, but does
> seem to last better than, say, motor oil.
> I noticed that if I took a dirty chain off and let it soak in mineral
> spirits for more than a part of a day, the gunky lube turned kind of
> plasticky and wouldn't brush off; whereas if I took a dirty chain off,
> soaked for a few hours, and then scrubbed, ti would come up shiny
> clean.
> Last week I had two chains to clean - one just off the bike, the other
> had been sitting coiled in the garage for a couple of weeks. Soaked
> them together for a few hours, and scrubbed them both. The one fresh
> off the bike came up shiny clean; the one that had been sitting didn't
> (still kind of greasy w/ plasticky residue).
> But I put the still smeary chain on the bike, since it was the older
> in rotation, and applied fresh lube as usual since the scrubbing had
> at least cleared the crusty stuff off the outside.
> This chain ran a couple of hours in the rain, and still doesn't need
> re-lubed. It's like maybe the smeary residue acts like sticky waxy
> grease to seal a little better, maybe.
> The phenomenon of a chain sitting (either in air or mineral spirits)
> turning plasticky is interesting. It's like as long as the chain is
> being run on the bike every day the lube stays solvent. I may have to
> try cleaning chains shiny clean, then putting them on a bike w/ clean
> sprockets to lube, wiping the outside, then hanging them up for later
> use. (As it is I have been hanging them clean and dry and lubing when
> installing to ride.)
You clean your chains? I wipe and lube until they get too stretched
according to my stretch-o-meter. They get so much road spray that they
sort of stay clean on their own . . . and rusty, too.
> On Oct 31, 5:20 pm, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Oct 31, 3:59 pm, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > On Saturday, October 13, 2012 7:58:35 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > > > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:36:18 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> > > > > yeah paper but use the red pipe, spray downward or directly to sideplates UP NEAR THE CR'S
> > > > > then wipe the braking surfaces down with Isopropyl or CHOH.
> > > > > Wet a paper towel wad, place against rim surface n walk bike forward...change PT twice.
> > > > ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
> > > > OFF COURSE THE OP EXISTS for seperating parts for a friction comparison. EG, sprayed only cassette cogs with that chain area. superduper friction lose.
> > > NNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
> > > the concept flows well, comntinues pleasiiiiiinnnnngggggg
> > > a word on Wal CRC silicone. Using it for smi cleaning of small parts AAA.
> > > Bike and shop. My jigsaw's blade mechnaism jammed. Streams of CRC and a sharp awl poking around freed the blade.
> > > excellent for dispersing/reliquifying sun fried wax lubes
> > I have an anecdote about Dumonde Tech:
> > The stuff is supposed to "bond" and/or "plate" metal parts - that's
> > it's key "tech", I think. In use it acts like smelly oil, but does
> > seem to last better than, say, motor oil.
> > I noticed that if I took a dirty chain off and let it soak in mineral
> > spirits for more than a part of a day, the gunky lube turned kind of
> > plasticky and wouldn't brush off; whereas if I took a dirty chain off,
> > soaked for a few hours, and then scrubbed, ti would come up shiny
> > clean.
> > Last week I had two chains to clean - one just off the bike, the other
> > had been sitting coiled in the garage for a couple of weeks. Soaked
> > them together for a few hours, and scrubbed them both. The one fresh
> > off the bike came up shiny clean; the one that had been sitting didn't
> > (still kind of greasy w/ plasticky residue).
> > But I put the still smeary chain on the bike, since it was the older
> > in rotation, and applied fresh lube as usual since the scrubbing had
> > at least cleared the crusty stuff off the outside.
> > This chain ran a couple of hours in the rain, and still doesn't need
> > re-lubed. It's like maybe the smeary residue acts like sticky waxy
> > grease to seal a little better, maybe.
> > The phenomenon of a chain sitting (either in air or mineral spirits)
> > turning plasticky is interesting. It's like as long as the chain is
> > being run on the bike every day the lube stays solvent. I may have to
> > try cleaning chains shiny clean, then putting them on a bike w/ clean
> > sprockets to lube, wiping the outside, then hanging them up for later
> > use. (As it is I have been hanging them clean and dry and lubing when
> > installing to ride.)
> You clean your chains?
Religiously. I feel like a chump doing it, too; but they look and
feel *so* nice for an hour or so afterward.
Since I'm rotating multiple chains to extend cassette life, I figure I
might as well clean it while it's already off the bike.
The Dumonde lube instructions say always start with a clean chain.
The stuff works really well and hangs in under duress. As I
suggested, though, I'm at least thinking about experimenting with
regimen changes.
> I wipe and lube until they get too stretched
> according to my stretch-o-meter. They get so much road spray that they
> sort of stay clean on their own . . . and rusty, too.
I will wipe and re-lube between cleanings as needed. Usually only
once, though (the stuff lasts).
The Dumonde doesn't just quiet the chain. They run really, really
smooth - almost un-chain-like.
add heat like slow slow heat under an infared lamp maybe at 140 for 6 hours or sun...try it next awegust.
does it smell like oil paint ? if so maybe more linseed oil
Finish Line has linseed as a component...LS 'polymerizes' from liquid to rubbery film. LS is cheap. I'm not aware of deodorized linseed but ? maybe for a perfume base ?
I did my bike spike with LS a few dyas ago after wire brushing warming the coated angle irons in a foil oven from Wals largest box, Reynolds turkey foil.
maybe 140-160 degrees. then painted with rusto Clean Metal primer
On Nov 1, 5:01 am, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> add heat like slow slow heat under an infared lamp maybe at 140 for 6 hours or sun...try it next awegust.
> does it smell like oil paint ? if so maybe more linseed oil
> Finish Line has linseed as a component...LS 'polymerizes' from liquid to rubbery film. LS is cheap. I'm not aware of deodorized linseed but ? maybe for a perfume base ?
> I did my bike spike with LS a few dyas ago after wire brushing warming the coated angle irons in a foil oven from Wals largest box, Reynolds turkey foil.
> maybe 140-160 degrees. then painted with rusto Clean Metal primer
> I have a vial of Dumonde unopened yet..soon.
The green stuff I get smells toxic but strangely appealing.
Yes I used to set the coffee can w/ chain and mineral spirits out in
the sunny driveway with a loose cover. Also, had an electric heater
in the garage for the long season (until the flood).
I want to get a jug of linseed oil onhand (for treating inside of
steel frames if nothing else, maybe also experiment w/ for ~locking
non-drive-side spokes, and ?) The Dumonde has some magical
combination which sets up but also seems to flow to keep getting back
in where it's needed.
On Thursday, November 1, 2012 11:01:04 AM UTC-4, Dan O wrote:
> On Nov 1, 5:01 am, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > add heat like slow slow heat under an infared lamp maybe at 140 for 6 hours or sun...try it next awegust.
> > does it smell like oil paint ? if so maybe more linseed oil
> > Finish Line has linseed as a component...LS 'polymerizes' from liquid to rubbery film. LS is cheap. I'm not aware of deodorized linseed but ? maybe for a perfume base ?
> > I did my bike spike with LS a few dyas ago after wire brushing warming the coated angle irons in a foil oven from Wals largest box, Reynolds turkey foil.
> > maybe 140-160 degrees. then painted with rusto Clean Metal primer
> > I have a vial of Dumonde unopened yet..soon.
> The green stuff I get smells toxic but strangely appealing.
> Yes I used to set the coffee can w/ chain and mineral spirits out in
> the sunny driveway with a loose cover. Also, had an electric heater
> in the garage for the long season (until the flood).
> I want to get a jug of linseed oil onhand (for treating inside of
> steel frames if nothing else, maybe also experiment w/ for ~locking
> non-drive-side spokes, and ?) The Dumonde has some magical
> combination which sets up but also seems to flow to keep getting back
> in where it's needed.
DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
your Dumonde is green ? mine is brown. what's the diff ?
>On Nov 1, 5:01 am, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> add heat like slow slow heat under an infared lamp maybe at 140 for 6 hours or sun...try it next awegust.
>> does it smell like oil paint ? if so maybe more linseed oil
>> Finish Line has linseed as a component...LS 'polymerizes' from liquid to rubbery film. LS is cheap. I'm not aware of deodorized linseed but ? maybe for a perfume base ?
>> I did my bike spike with LS a few dyas ago after wire brushing warming the coated angle irons in a foil oven from Wals largest box, Reynolds turkey foil.
>> maybe 140-160 degrees. then painted with rusto Clean Metal primer
>> I have a vial of Dumonde unopened yet..soon.
>The green stuff I get smells toxic but strangely appealing.
>Yes I used to set the coffee can w/ chain and mineral spirits out in
>the sunny driveway with a loose cover. Also, had an electric heater
>in the garage for the long season (until the flood).
>I want to get a jug of linseed oil onhand (for treating inside of
>steel frames if nothing else, maybe also experiment w/ for ~locking
>non-drive-side spokes, and ?) The Dumonde has some magical
>combination which sets up but also seems to flow to keep getting back
>in where it's needed.
You want "Boiled" linseed oil. The raw oil takes forever to harden.
-- Cheers,
John B.
therein several new ideas...I use a reflector oven...will take photo
the BOILED LINSEED (Wal) is thinned THINNED ! brushed INTO a wire brushed carbide bur pit dugout metal surface...washed clean if possible but not doirt wiped back into pits...then the peice goes into oven for boiling of water vapor...cooled down to 80 - 90 ...shade oven...brushed with THINNED LINSEED WATERY and alllowed to oven dry maybe 2-3, 6-7 hour days so the surface is hard to touch not tacky
then paint with Rusto clean metal primer..there's a Rusto professional Primer ??? hey its their idea right ?
My Volvo has two parts treated thus: inside engine room fender wall and cenyter piece rear bumper that takes a salt beating up north.
the bumper piece was a goner.
what happened ? I didnlt have a carbide electric drill beehive bur then so there's pits slightky filled with rust dirt. effect was rust sealed off from moisture and oxygen ate itself....using its own water and o2 ...into a very very hard and not spreading further deposit...most of them pryable out with a sharp pick after anoither 10 years...
soon we are together for 50 !
> therein several new ideas...I use a reflector oven...will take photo
> the BOILED LINSEED (Wal) is thinned THINNED ! brushed INTO a wire brushed carbide bur pit dugout metal surface...washed clean if possible but not doirt wiped back into pits...then the peice goes into oven for boiling of water vapor...cooled down to 80 - 90 ...shade oven...brushed with THINNED LINSEED WATERY and alllowed to oven dry maybe 2-3, 6-7 hour days so the surface is hard to touch not tacky
> then paint with Rusto clean metal primer..there's a Rusto professional Primer ??? hey its their idea right ?
> My Volvo has two parts treated thus: inside engine room fender wall and cenyter piece rear bumper that takes a salt beating up north.
> the bumper piece was a goner.
> what happened ? I didnlt have a carbide electric drill beehive bur then so there's pits slightky filled with rust dirt. effect was rust sealed off from moisture and oxygen ate itself....using its own water and o2 ...into a very very hard and not spreading further deposit...most of them pryable out with a sharp pick after anoither 10 years...
