CARGO BIKE BAG RETURNS WITH RACK MOD

[datakoll]

bottom line cargo

https://picasaweb.google.com/102234459580640424681/CARGOBIKEBAG#

[Jeff Liebermann]

Measure twice, drill once.
<https://picasaweb.google.com/102234459580640424681/CARGOBIKEBAG#5793389099181982850>

The protruding bolts and nuts on top are a bad idea. Go thee unto
your local hardware store and buy some blind T-nuts like these:
<http://www.wholelottawhimsy.com/graphics/scaled_1000x1000/sp270.jpg>
Instead of U-bolts, find some saddle clamps like this:
<http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/saddle-clamp-5551-2694939.jpg>
I suggest the 2 hole variety for strength but the one hole variety is
easier if you need to remove the plywood.

Wrap the bike rack under the saddle clamps with what's left of an old
tire tube to prevent scratching the paint.

Pound the T-nuts into the plywood from the top. Attach the saddle
clamps from below. The difficult part will be finding mounting screws
that are the correct length to not project from the T-nut and into
your bag of groceries.

--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Sir Ridesalot]

On Sunday, September 30, 2012 2:09:31 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 17:34:46 -0700 (PDT), datakoll
>
> <data...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> >bottom line cargo
>
> >https://picasaweb.google.com/102234459580640424681/CARGOBIKEBAG#
>
>
>
> Measure twice, drill once.
>
> <https://picasaweb.google.com/102234459580640424681/CARGOBIKEBAG#5793389099181982850>
>
>
>
> The protruding bolts and nuts on top are a bad idea. Go thee unto
>
> your local hardware store and buy some blind T-nuts like these:
>
> <http://www.wholelottawhimsy.com/graphics/scaled_1000x1000/sp270.jpg>
>

Snipped

>
>
> Pound the T-nuts into the plywood from the top. Attach the saddle
>
> clamps from below. The difficult part will be finding mounting screws
>
> that are the correct length to not project from the T-nut and into
>
> your bag of groceries.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
>
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
>
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
>
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

If the bolts do protrude past the T-nuts a hacksaw and file can quickly make them flush. Alternative is a Dremel tool with cut-off disc followed by a grinding stone. Either would only take a few minutes.

Cheers

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 11:21:46 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
<i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote:

>If the bolts do protrude past the T-nuts a hacksaw and file
>can quickly make them flush.

One might do that if there was only a bolt or two to trim. However,
this thing uses either 4 or 8 bolts, which turns an easy fix into a
tedious challenge. It's easier to just do a trial fit, measure the
correct length bolt, and make the pilgrimage to the hardware emporium
for the correct size.

If the bolt length is only a little bit too long, adding some extra
washers between the saddle clamp and the screw head will help.

>Alternative is a Dremel tool with cut-off disc followed by a
>grinding stone. Either would only take a few minutes.

Having seen the results of the Mr Datakoll's workmanship in attempting
to locate the mounting holes around the plywood until they line up
with the rack, I would suspect that handing him anything as dangerous
as a Dremel cut-off disk or angle grinder would be considered
homicidal. Grinding the bolt flush to the T-nut is going to be
difficult without also gouging the T-nut or plywood. Also, the few
times I've cut off bolts in place has resulted in RIP (rust-in-place)
after a few months due to removing the galvanizing. If the grinder is
used too aggressively, it might heat the T-nuts and set fire to the
plywood.

[Sir Ridesalot]

Maybe so. Sometimes you just don't have a short enough bolt and the hardwars store is either closed or some distance away. Then it makes sense to use longer bolts and cut them down. Another thing you can do is measure how long the bolt needs to be, remove the bolt and then thread on a couple of nuts that are then locked together. You cut off the excess bolt and then back off the nuts to clean the threads. I think it'd be a lot faster to cut the bolts off after threading them through the T-nuts. I have cut off many bolts that were too long. I never had a problem using either a hacksaw and file or a Dremel tool cut-off wheel and grinding stone. I have cut a number of bolts in just a few minutes. Another case of different strokes for different folks.

Cheers

[datakoll]

suggestions AAA but not be snotty lets. The TEMPLATE and a template of cardboard or scrap plywood should be used is what happens when the TEMPLATE is marked from underneath with lines drawn felt pen against the Blackburn's rails. Positoning to center in the U of the wire rope clamps on the supposed Blackburn rail position now scribed onto the TEMPLATE is dicey at best.

As you mark postions, the errors mount moving from one side to the other then down to the other end from whence you began.

Is best removing the rack, marking a TEMPLATE then installing TEMPLATE and final piece with rack removed.

However, eyeball the work for problems WHEN MOUNTED which could ruin your day doing 128th inch work only to find what you did does not fit when mounted.

BEWARE. Using a TEMPLATE usually resolves problems before occurence.

Wire rope clamps are in the tool box. The U's fit a HD Blackurn. Cut a piece of poly water jug for a nut cover, screw down. The bumps are holding power.

I did a Superduper run this morning fetching 40 pounds no prob but the rack needs sides when time allows....cabinet irons bolted into scrap plywood.

The Raleigh, will photo when I pull it from the Tor is done in mated cherry with plywood from a '58 kitchen.

If the available racks are looked over...for shopping...this approach surfaces as a good deal. With the HD Touring Blackurn.

The Blackburn's weakness may be seat post connections, a fix visible with the Raleigh's rack.

[datakoll]

wire rope clamps are INDUSTRAIL HARDWARE. The Blackburn needs light file for a clamp fit, you may dab epoxy then coat with paint. Nuts on top are thus inspectable for loosenesses.

[datakoll]

Here's Blackburn

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=gw&q=Search%20for%20topics#hl=en&sugexp=les%3Bcesh&gs_nf=1&gs_mss=NASHBAR%20Backburn%20rack&tok=V39FOdWxzuBG4_2TaJ9rfw&pq=search%20for%20topics&cp=10&gs_id=4p&xhr=t&q=NASHBAR%20Blackburn%20rack&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&oq=NASHBAR+Blackburn+rack&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=2ae57bceec566c09&biw=1138&bih=629

[datakoll]

On Sunday, September 30, 2012 7:33:57 PM UTC-4, datakoll wrote:
> wire rope clamps are INDUSTRAIL HARDWARE. The Blackburn needs light file for a clamp fit, you may dab epoxy then coat with paint. Nuts on top are thus inspectable for loosenesses.

cut poly water jug form top nut cover, screw down.

[datakoll]

layout for drilling ? skip it. sharpen the fasteners' ends to a sharp point then mark in real time.

[datakoll]

NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

with a template or finish piece, cut large then trim so the rectangle lays parallel and perp to the bike frame

here's a better Blackburn

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_543077_-1___

[datakoll]

the plywood platform was thrown together to see where thte project would go in that mode. As expected, hole location went further off drilling 1-2-3-4 holes.

Our friends, given the op tom point out there were more holes in the ply than necessary, did so. As expected.

Unexpected was the answer as the solution is always usually unexpected:
NOW WTH do we do with the leftover epoxy ?

Uh we fill the extra holes with it like over at Baker furniture.

Now for some black walnut vernear.

[Dan O]

Drillium inverted.

[datakoll]

primer surfacer