Help! Front Derailluer Indexing will not work
Mark Cleary
out riding today doing sprints with the wind and all of a sudden the FD
will not work. I went to the small ring then moved the cable around got
it to shift back to the large ring ( I am in the large ring 90% of
time.) Well I got home to check it out and I don't know. The lever will
not click to move the derailluer to the small and I cannot click the
whole lever to the large ring. It seems that both levers will move but
no clicks they just fall back into place. The FD moves as I am trying to
move it to the large ring but then goes back as the lever moves back.
Where do I start and I am a bit afraid to take apart the STI system but
is that difficult to put back together? It seems that is where I need to
check. The cables all look ok I undid them and the FD and greased put
the cable back on that seems fine no binding anywhere. I have done
things with my bike but those little parts in the brakes and shifters
have the deacon worried please give advice I generally can do things if
I start correct.
--
Deacon Mark Cleary
Epiphany Roman Catholic Church
thirty-six
I know nothing of the evil innards of mechanisms for which you speak.
Blast them with the righteous silicone spray and see if the demons
will be expelled.
Chalo
>
> I have a compact double with shimano 105 shifters and ultegra FD. I am
> out riding today doing sprints with the wind and all of a sudden the FD
> will not work. I went to the small ring then moved the cable around got
> it to shift back to the large ring ( I am in the large ring 90% of
> time.) Well I got home to check it out and I don't know. The lever will
> not click to move the derailluer to the small and I cannot click the
> whole lever to the large ring. It seems that both levers will move but
> no clicks they just fall back into place. The FD moves as I am trying to
> move it to the large ring but then goes back as the lever moves back.
It's gunked up, which is a prelude to the eventual failure of all
brifters. In my experience they can be resurrected once.
It's relatively often that some unfortunate person brings me a brifter
equipped bike that no longer clicks. I flood the shifter pods with
solvent (I use White Lighting Clean Streak spray but even WD-40 would
probably work) and shift them to and fro until they resume normal
operation. Then I flood them with light spray lube (I use Boeshield
T-9 but the residue from WD-40 would probably work).
Downtube shifters and bar end shifters don't fail this way, and they
last many times longer in normal use. And they have a backup friction
mode. And they cost less, weigh less, and look better.
Kelly Take Offs cost a little more and are ugly, but they offer all
the other advantages of downtube shifters. They are less costly and
less ugly than brifters.
http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html
> Where do I start and I am a bit afraid to take apart the STI system but
> is that difficult to put back together?
If you take the mechanism apart, it generally won't go back together.
Don't do it. It's disposable, with a short lifespan, just the way
Shimano likes it.
Chalo
pastor...@lanaifaith.com
I have the shimano 105, and last summer my rear wouldn't
shift. I looked inside it and saw the cable was only 2 strands of wire left
holding, and other wire inside jamming it. I lasted since 2003, so I got my
use of that cable. I went to the performance bike local shop and picked up 2
cables for a good price:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1032118_-1_1511003_1511000_400247
Here is a picture of my bike - 2003 vintage alp d huez- it has become a
classic steel bike cause they aren't made anymore.
http://www.lanaifaith.com/img/lemond.jpg
I have a vintage 1984 Peugeot with downtube shifters, still works. Here is a
picture from 2 weeks back.
http://www.lanaifaith.com/cycling/bikeride4.jpg
"Mark Cleary" <mcle...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:hn6ojc$s5j$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
thirty-six
Using any other lubricant than silicone spray may weaken plastic
innards. Petroleum distallates of WD40 (and others) do embrittle and
weaken plastics. So if you would like any plastic bits to function
and continue to function, use a plastic lubricant (silicone spray
lube).
thirty-six
Remember that petrochemicals break down polymers such as rubbers and
plastics. This is likely why you can resurrect once and not again.
Not using petroleum based products will likely lgive the mechanisms
longer life. So silicone or almond oil.