It was only put in about a year ago.....ah....no....maybe 18 months ago.
I did use loads of anti-sieze as well. Hey ho. Guess I just shouldn't
ride it :)
Anyway, my thoughts are:
Get heat gun
Put BB tool in vice (it's a Campag bb for info)
heat bb
put bike on tool and twist.
Anyone got any suggestions as to things to be wary off when doing this?
The frame is unpainted, so that's one less problem to worry about.
Arthur
--
Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
Puritanism - the haunting fear that someone, somewhere, may be happy -
H. L. Mencken.
Put the crankbolt back in with a suitable washer[s] to make sure it
can't wander off
--
Marten
>Opps. My BB is siezed in my Ti frame (Airborne Zeplinn).
>Anyway, my thoughts are:
>put bike on tool and twist.
Put bb tool in vise. Put bike on tool and twist, with steady and
strong force. Did this last week with a Litespeed Tuscany frame and
Ultegra bb. Scary until the bb moves.
P.S. Make sure you know which direction the bb is threaded.
See: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html
P.S.S. This method also works removing freewheel from single speed
hub.
--dt
Lock the BB removing tool onto the spline of the BB cup with a rear
wheel QR. This prevents slipping which can ruin your BB spline/cup.
Use a long wrench and a hammer. Apply sharp blows to the wrench end.
Your BB should be ENG threads so the direction would be clockwise to
loosen. Next time, wrap a thin layer of plumber's Teflon tape onto the
BB fixed cup, grease the BB shell threads well and then install. Good
luck.
You might also want to try to find some washers that will JUST fit
inside the BB tool. I once tried to remove a VERY stuck BB cup and
shattered the Campy BB tool (and that was after I had used washers and
a bolt to make sure it was held securely and perfectly square). I
assume that wouldn't have happened if I could have kept the tool from
compressing under load (by using washers).
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame
--
David L. Johnson dl...@lehigh.edu dl...@netaxs.com
Department of Mathematics http://www.lehigh.edu/~dlj0/dlj0.html
Lehigh University
14 E. Packer Avenue (610) 758-3759
Bethlehem, PA 18015-3174
I'm confused here. Can someone explain in words of one syllable, exactly what
teflon tape is and what I do with it?
How does it go over the threads without blocking the threads?
Mark H. has more experience than I with Ti frames - perhaps he may have a
favourite method for BB install and anti-seize
Steve
(others may be better at a describing this)
"Arthur Clune" <aj...@york.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:a911d8$qu5$3...@pump1.york.ac.uk...
>David L. Johnson <dl...@lehigh.edu> wrote:
>: So, what is the best way to prevent this from happening? Is teflon tape
>: better than anti-seize? Do you need a special ti-based anti-seize? I'm
>: going to be installing a bottom bracket in a new ti frame soon, so this
>: would be good to know.
>
>I'm confused here. Can someone explain in words of one syllable, exactly what
>teflon tape is and what I do with it?
>
>How does it go over the threads without blocking the threads?
Teflon tape is basically a VERY thin sheet of lubricant. It takes up
very, very little room, and I recommend it highly for the installation
of bottom brackets.
1) Thoroughly clean everything (BB shell, cups, etc.)
2) Wrap teflon tape around the BB cups (making sure that it's in the
direction that won't "unwind" when you screw in the cups).
3) Slather the inside of the frame's BB shell with grease
4) Slather the inside of the BB cups (in the case of a cartridge BB)
with grease, and put some on the outside of the cartridge where
they'll be inserted into the cups (this interface is one of the
biggest potential "noise generators" on a bike)
5) Slather some grease on top of the teflon tape
6) Install, torquing to spec (pretty darn tight if you don't have a
torque wrench).
This will keep your BB quiet and happy for a long, long time.
Home Depot, plumbing stores ... have them in rolls (xx feet). Quite
cheap. The tape stretches and is very conformal. Depends how "tight"
the threads are cut in your BB shell, use the appropriate layer(s). I
have no experience with anti-seize but have plenty of rolls around the
house. I use it on my 10 bikes (2 AL, 1 ti, rest cr-mo) and lets just
say I like my BB tight especially almost all my frames are ITL.
Steel BB cups: are you providing another reason to use Shimano? :)
"Mark Hickey" <ma...@habcycles.com> wrote in message
news:3cb39acd....@netnews.att.net...
> You might also want to try to find some washers that will JUST fit
> inside the BB tool. I once tried to remove a VERY stuck BB cup and
> shattered the Campy BB tool (and that was after I had used washers and
> a bolt to make sure it was held securely and perfectly square). I
> assume that wouldn't have happened if I could have kept the tool from
> compressing under load (by using washers).
The Tacx tool is more substantial. And it doesn't slip either . . .
--
Andrew Muzi
http://www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April 1971
Yes, or Phil Wood, and a steel seat post too. :-)
--Paul
> I'm confused here. Can someone explain in words of one syllable, exactly
>what
>> teflon tape is and what I do with it?
It's thread lubricant/sealer that comes in a roll of thin, dry "tape" instead
of in semisolid form ("pipe dope") which is put on with a brush. To a limited
extent it can make up gaps in thread fit. Put it on so the act of tightening
the threads doesn't peel it loose (apply counterclockwise for right hand
threads). Stretch it, holding down the beginning end, so it goes down into the
threads, cover the beginning end with the first lap, and press the tape down
into the threads before tightening, so the tape doesn't get dislodged from the
threads and you wind up with a big wad of tape shreds at the inside face of the
cup and nothing between cup and BB shell. Try one overlapped layer first for
fit.
Also note that tef tape doesn't coat threads the way grease or anti-seize does,
so it is wise to coat the female threads (not with great excesses) and put a
layer of whatever you're using over the teflon tape, too. It might just "wash
off" but you've done what you could to prevent problems at removal time. --Tom
Paterson
How would that prevent seizing? Besides, aren't most cups steel?
Most cups that seize in a Ti BB shell are aluminum.
The how/why isn't my department, but one of the wanna-be metallurgists
will probably pipe up soon. I assume there is some galling property
between the two, or tightened fit due to aluminum oxide, or both.
--Paul
We like a couple of brands of anti-sieze - any auto parts store.
I slather it all over every surface where ti will touch metal
If it is a seizing problem, anti-seize compound is probably the
answer. You have to be careful with dissimilar metal joints as other
processes may be at work as well, i.e., corrosion and/or galling.
There are a variety of anti-seize compound available, check the
manufacturers information for intented use. Also, dissmilar metal
joints should be sealed or insulated or otherwise coated/lubed to
limit galvanic corrosion. Most threads should be lubed to be properly
torqued. If a large torque value is required or if there is some
interferenc in the threads, a high pressure lube may be necessary so
that the lube is not wiped (sheared) away. Many of the anti-seize
compounds contain extreme pressure lubes and additives such as soft
metal powders to prevent galling and seizure.
Arthur Clune <aj...@york.ac.uk> wrote in message news:<a911d8$qu5$3...@pump1.york.ac.uk>...
It's PTFE drawn to a very thin film. It's trendy now to use it both in
place of pipe joint compound and in place of anti-sieze.
> It's PTFE drawn to a very thin film. It's trendy now to use it both in
> place of pipe joint compound and in place of anti-sieze.
For water pipes it's more than just "trendy". That stuff works better
than pipe dope in terms of making a watertight seal. I haven't used it
yet in place of, or in addition to, anti-seize, but at $1 a roll, why
not?
> We like a couple of brands of anti-sieze - any auto parts store.
My anti-seize tube is, I believe, a mix of grease and aluminum powder.
Should I try to find a ti-specific compound for the new frame?
"David L. Johnson" <dl...@lehigh.edu> wrote in message
news:3CB4ED04...@lehigh.edu...
> My anti-seize tube is, I believe, a mix of grease and aluminum powder.
> Should I try to find a ti-specific compound for the new frame?
I'm sure one of the experts here will know but I don't.
The one we use mostt is high-temp for exhaust systems because I also use it
for those. Seems to stop corrosion in salt commuting when applied liberally.
It's copper-colored.