Bicycle Prince Edward Island
Lucent Employee
There are 4 of us wanting to bicycle PEI for a week in July. Has anyone got
some pretty, rural routes you've tried? We want to do 50ish miles per day,
starting and ending at our car. Any suggestions for good spots and those
to avoid?
Does anyone have experience with good tour groups in that area?
Cindy
Dan Gindling
Cindy:
Here's a story I wrote quite a few years ago. The only advice I have is
to definitely stay away from the north central part of the island, where
the Anne of Green Gables tourism rages.
Dan
BICYCLING CANADA'S SMALLEST PROVINCE -
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
by
Dan Gindling
Prince Edward Island squeezes a wealth of diversity into a small package.
Lucy Maude Montgomery's fictional Anne of Green Gables grew up on the
island. Charlottetown, the Province's capital city, thrives with theatre,
restaurants, and shopping. Steep cliffs and sandy beaches encircle
pastoral countryside. Fresh, tasty cuisine tempts at almost every bend of
the island. Dozens of artisan shops, steepled churches, and fishing
wharfs await exploration. And throughout PEI hospitality is genuine.
Located in Atlantic Canada, PEI, as Canadians and visitors refer to it, is
Canada's smallest Province. The crescent shaped island sits in the Gulf of
St. Lawrence, and is cradled on three sides by New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia.
My companion, Kimberlee, and I spent three weeks exploring PEI by
bicycle. Circumnavigating the island requires about 500 miles of
pedaling. But it's bicycling at its best. We doddled for sure; you
should be able to make the entire trip in 10-14 days still cruising at a
leisurely pace.
The ferry port at Borden, located on the southcentral shores of the
island, was our starting point. Traveling in a clockwise direction we
covered about 30-40 miles per day often times cycling two abreast along
rural roads, with traffic nothing more than a few birds passing us
overhead. The roads we bicycled frequently paralleled the water. In
places, steep, chocolate brown colored cliffs extended down to the sea, in
others, flat, sandy beaches greeted incoming waves. We found the western
third of the island mostly flat which made pedaling easy (when the wind
was calm), the eastern third rolling, and the middle third hilly. All in
all, the terrain was bicycling friendly.
Farm country covers much of PEI. The Province is second only to Ireland
in supplying seed potatoes to the world. During our travels in mid-June
many of the fields were being readied for planting: tractors dragging
plowing discs could be seen busily turning the earth exposing acres of
rich reddish-brown dirt. Combined with the vibrant green pastures of
alfalfa and a musty blue sea, the contrasting colors were captivating.
After each day's ride we bedded down at an Inn or Bed & Breakfast. It was
reassuring to know that the hours of pedaling would be concluded with a
hot shower and warm bed. During our trip we slept in an assortment of
dwellings: a mansion that once belonged to a fish-barren, several
white-washed farm houses, a refurbished Victorian home, and one night, a
lighthouse.
The West Point Lighthouse, built in 1875, is located on the southwestern
tip of PEI. Two rooms are available in the lighthouse structure itself,
with another eight rooms for rent in a recently constructed annex. Carol
Livingstone, the great granddaughter of "Lighthouse Willie," the original
lighthouse keeper from 1875 to 1925, is the innkeeper. During our stay
she took us on a tour through the lighthouse museum telling us tales of
PEI pirates, phantom ships and of growing up within view of the
lighthouse.
"Taking this old building and making it come alive again, that's been
real important," she beamed with pride.
Through Carol's perseverance the lighthouse and three provincial parks in
west Prince County have been completely refurbished, bringing much needed
tourist dollars into the area.
Carol was just one of the many fascinating and friendly PEI people we
met. Another was Rodney McInnis, a wild blueberry farmer living in the
small community of Anglo Tignish. A dozen years ago Rodney traded in his
high-stress job on Toronto's Bay Street (Canada's equivalent to Wall
Street), for PEI farmland that first belonged to his great uncle. It
took him two years "with a chain and axe" to clear the brush and trees
from the 100 acres of land: it hadn't been farmed in 25 years, he said.
Now, nature does most of the work including scattering the wild blueberry
seeds. All Rodney has to do is pick the berries and get them to market.
PEI hospitality again enveloped us when Kimberlee and I got caught in a
torrential downpour: we were actually riding through a river of water
rushing down the road. After spending an hour pedaling in the deluge, we
pulled up to "Mom's Bed & Breakfast," and banged on the door. When our
knock was answered, we mischievously asked, "Mom, is that you?" And
though "Mom" -- Erma Gauden-MacArthur -- wasn't yet ready for business
she opened her house to us anyway.
After showering and changing into dry clothes we sat and talked with her
about life on PEI. She told us of growing up with seven brothers and
sisters in this very house. Of how she subsequently raised her children
in the two-story, seven-bedroom dwelling. Of how the neighbor kids used
to come over and listen to the hockey games at the house because they were
the first in the area with a radio. That night she taught us to play
cribbage and near midnight after countless games and hours of conversation
Kimberlee and I begrudgingly headed up the stairs to bed.
While the people of PEI nourished our hearts and souls the island's
outstanding cuisine more than satisfied our appetite. At North Cape --
the island's most northwestern point -- we stopped for dinner at the Wind
Reef Restaurant. We both ordered Seafood Crepes which arrived
overburdened with fresh shrimp, scallops and hake. For desert we savored
another crepe: this one stuffed with ice cream and smothered in fudge
sauce.
The next day, pedaling through Alberton, still in Prince County, we paused
at the Kings Restaurant, a small eatery tucked into a corner of the tiny
village. After we sat down the owner told us that if we didn't like his
fish & chips -- "They're the best on the island" -- lunch would be free.
After our meal we happily paid the bill. In retrospect, it was the best
fish & chips we had on the island.
Another afternoon our day ended scrumptiously at the New Glasgow Lobster
Suppers. Oh, did I forget to mention? PEI is world famous for its
lobster. During our journey we had lobster on sandwiches, lobster in
soup, whole lobster, lobster tails, we even dreamt of lobster. And one
day we went lobster fishing.
At the Mathew House Inn, located in northeastern PEI in the town of Souris
we signed up for the "Island Lobster Fishing Package." The Inn was chosen
by Frommer's Travel Guide Canada '93 as "our favourite...on PEI for it's
beauty, history and hospitality." And we couldn't have agreed more. Our
adventure included two night's accommodations at the Inn, a morning of
lobster fishing, followed by an all-you-can-eat lobster feast. The
candlelight dinner included wine, fish chowder bursting with lobster,
clams, scallops, and hake, fresh salad, whole lobsters, and chocolate
pecan pie. It was an incredible meal!
Besides eateries and friendly people, our riding took us past dozens of
artisan studios and craft shops. Original watercolor paintings, pottery,
clothing, art crafted from wood, it's all on the island, and in prices
ranging from ten to thousands of dollars.
One sun-drenched afternoon, we stopped at the Glasgow Road Gallery owned
by Hugh Crosby, and located in northcentral PEI. His paintings, which
"intimately record the Island's way of life and scenery," are displayed
in a big blue barn. Inside were wonderful watercolors of cows grazing in
grassy fields, sheep huddled next to huge spools of hay, colorful barns
and farmhouses scattered across a rural landscape, and other settings of
country living on PEI.
The roads became hilly as we pedaled into this portion of the island.
However, as the terrain undulated the scenery increased in grandeur:
Fertile hills sculpted the countryside, white wooden fences separated
property, steepled churches punctured the sky, frothy streams wiggled
through tree-filled valleys. One day, between Malpeque and New Glasgow,
it took us 11 hours just to bicycle 45 miles. There was so much to
experience.
Pedaling our final day from Charlottetown back to Borden I thought of all
of the wonderful memories we would be taking home from PEI, and I realized
that the island may be Canada's smallest Province, but it's big in
experiences. If you have the time explore PEI by bicycle; the slower pace
will allow you to more readily interact with the land and people. And
besides bicycling burns calories which means you can eat more of the
Province's incredible food.
IF YOU GO
ï TIME OF YEAR: Summer months are from May through September. Most
tourist-related activities operate from mid-June through September. If
you want to miss the crowds, come in May, June or after Labor Day in
September.
ï CLIMATE: Cooler temperatures prevail in May, June and September.
Average day time highs are around 70 degrees in July and August.
ï ACCOMMODATIONS: The author stayed most nights at a Bed & Breakfast or
Inn, which most times consisted of a room and a shared bathroom.
Breakfast is usually included. Rates range from $25 to $40 for two.
Off-season discount rates from September through June are available at
many of the island's Inns and B&Bs.
More than 50 campgrounds -- provincial, national park and commercial --
are scattered throughout the province.
Hotel and motel accommodations are also available.
Complete information on accommodations are included in the "Prince Edward
Island Visitors Guide."
ï TRANSPORTATION: Air Canada services the island from the United States
and Canada into Charlottetown. Ferry service is available year-round from
Cape Tormentine, New Brunswick to Borden, PEI. The 8-mile trip takes
about 45 minutes. In eastern PEI, a ferry operates between Caribou, Nova
Scotia and Wood Island, PEI. Total trip time is about 75 minutes. Ferry
schedules are included on the back of the "PEI Visitors Map."
ï MAP: A good map of the island is available from PEI Tourism. The
island is divided into three counties: Prince, Queens and Kings, and six
scenic areas. The map's scenic areas correspond with sections in the PEI
Visitors Guide. There are also three scenic drives on the island: "Lady
Slipper" (180 miles) in the west; "Blue Herron" (120 miles) in the center;
and "Kings Byway (234 miles) in the east. Each scenic drive is a loop
traveled on mostly secluded roadways.
ï GENERAL INFORMATION: Write to PEI Tourism, P.O. Box 940, Charlottetown,
PEI Canada C1A 7M5. Telephone: (800) 565-0267.
David Dermott
>Cindy:
>
>Here's a story I wrote quite a few years ago. The only advice I have is
>to definitely stay away from the north central part of the island, where
>the Anne of Green Gables tourism rages.
>
Yes. My favorite area is the eastern county (Kings). Wood Island-
Murray River- Panmure Island- Montague - Souris- East Point - St Peters
Motor tourists seem to bypass that area. There is still a ferry from
Wood Islands to Caribou NS.
The new bridge to NB has changed traffic patterns, increased traffic
even more in the central area, but probably hasn't affected Kings Co.
The new bridge from NB to PEI is not very convenient for cyclists
Last I heard there was a van leaving every 2 hours that could carry 7
bicycles. There could be a long wait, especially for large groups of
cyclists. Anybody have any experience with this?
--
David Dermott , Wolfville Ridge, Nova Scotia, Canada
email: nstn...@fox.nstn.ca
www home: http://fox.nstn.ca/~nstn1181/