105 kilos? You might be dropping spokes whether you want to or not.
=:O
R
Good advice. Your rim choice looks good, a strong 450 gm box rim with
eyelets. If you're following advice from "The Bicycle Wheel" book, my
input is that I wouldn't tension it as high as the book suggests. A
guy your weight needs high tension, but too high and you'll get early
cracks forming around the eyelets. Experience is your guide here.
Now please tell us how you once dropped several people on a Sunday
afternoon ice cream ride in your local community.
IMHO buy some pre-built fulcrums with the same budget and you'll be $$
$ and hours ahead. F7s are fine for everyday shit. They
re often around $200 a set.
If you really want some great hand built wheels and it really matters
Iget them built by Joe Young. WORTH EVERY PENNY.
And what dope you took to do it.
Have you had issues with Ultegra hubs? Are you going to swap rear
wheels in and out of a bike? You'll want a setup where you don't have
to adjust the rear derailleur to get accurate shifting-- sooner or
later <g>.
I've used Velocity Aerohead (front) and Aerohead OC (rear) rims, 32
and 36h (matched f/r, one set each drilling), 3x, Campy hubs, with
excellent results at roughly your weight.
That might be pushing the limits of those light rims but the fronts
have been fine and the rears have been especially durable compared to
other wheels, staying tight and true (if not quite totally maintenance-
free, pretty darn close) even when being beefed up hills-- better than
other pro-built wheels I've used with box-section rims. The weight
difference compared to your Razors (approx. 25 catalog grams) is
negligible unless you're being paid to finish in front of other
people.
IMHO stay with 32 spokes and 3x and brass nipples, too, for extended
care-free use and easier maintenance.
I've used old Shamal wheels, deep rim section with 16 spokes with no
problems but those are pretty deep, heavy rims and if you ever pop a
spoke with fewer than 32 for starters, it might be a long ride home.
I've broken a front spoke on my 32h Velocity front wheel, of course
right before a gnarly dirt road section on a group ride, which did not
go far enough out of true far enough to affect braking. And it didn't
break any more spokes while being fairly hammered to keep up on a
washboard/large gravel surface. That's at least partly due to a pro
build with tensionometer/tensiometer, no doubt.
--D-y
It would help if you could give the spoke gauges used.
That's some wheel builder. Straight talk, common sense and a he's
worked with some top people. What sort of wheels has he built for
you?
R
> It would help if you could give the spoke gauges used.
Help what?
--D-y
To know what is an appropriate gauge spoke with that rim for a big
un. I don't come across such weighty riders.
...and the ball is thrown high in the air! Oh, this is going to be
nasty, folks.
R
Just very good wheels - record, phil wood, dt and mavic stuff. He's
as good as seems. Honest and the wheels last forever without any
problems.
I think what he does best is really spend the time making sure the
wheel is perfect before it goes out. The tension and the way they
ride is a complete another level.