seeking water resistant cycling shoes
bobdobbs
also water resistant. I am not using clipless pedals. I've been using
some cool Shimanos and Lake shoes from the 1980's but nothing is
available like them. I am not looking for any of the high tech stuff.
I've heard about Cannondale Roams but they seem stiff - any experience
with them? I realize there will be some trade offs, want some support
but also off-cycle availability.
thirty-six
Exustar have received acclaim for their touring style shoes in the
past.
Simon Lewis
The Shimano MTB shoes are excellent. MTB 52/51 are without
equal. Comfortable. Long lasting. Waterproof.
Possibly you might consider them too "hi tech". But really not.
Tom Sherman °_°
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.
Simon Lewis
I consider all under 40 shorts too small. What is your point?
Clearly you have them fitted. I can not account for everyones foot size
when making a recommendation.
Tom Sherman °_°
but different widths. Shimano only makes one width, which is too narrow
for people that need an "E" width.
Simon Lewis
That's nice. But the point is you don't know his or anyone elses foot
size here.
I will rephrase:
"If you can find a pair that fit .... I recommend the MT51/52" ....
landotter
If you're using a supportive pedal, just about any shoe can be a
cycling shoe. "Urban sneaker" type of shoes with smooth leather are
easily waterproofed, and work great with mtb flats or platform pedals
and toeclips. I've been partial to using Blundstone boots in truly
brutal icebiking conditions, as they're totally waterproof, light, and
have seamless tops.
thirty-six
I've managed well with leather soled office type shoes, just wax them
well. Dress shoes generally dont have the sole thickness desirable,
but then again, since I only use low pedalling forces as a rule now,
perhaps even these are suitable.
Ryan Cousineau
<11c6bb1b-d641-4444...@z7g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> wrote:
I am one of their fans. I have both some Duegi winter boots, and the
Exustars, and I prefer the Exustars. The usual recommendation is to go
one size big and wear winter socks. I sized mine with thick socks, and
am happy. My preferred socks are wool hunting socks. I may try some
others.
My experience includes quite a few 3-hour rides on wet wintry days in
Vancouver; the Exustars and good socks make such rides perfectly
tolerable where neoprene booties didn't work for me.
http://www.exustar.com/sm450.php
--
Ryan Cousineau rcou...@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them."
landotter
> In article
> <11c6bb1b-d641-4444-8302-1f81d41bc...@z7g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,
>
> thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> > On 23 Nov, 09:58, bobdobbs <mnite...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > I'm looking for bicycle touring shoes that I can walk in and that are
> > > also water resistant. I am not using clipless pedals. I've been using
> > > some cool Shimanos and Lake shoes from the 1980's but nothing is
> > > available like them. I am not looking for any of the high tech stuff.
> > > I've heard about Cannondale Roams but they seem stiff - any experience
> > > with them? I realize there will be some trade offs, want some support
> > > but also off-cycle availability.
>
> > Exustar have received acclaim for their touring style shoes in the
> > past.
>
> I am one of their fans. I have both some Duegi winter boots, and the
> Exustars, and I prefer the Exustars. The usual recommendation is to go
> one size big and wear winter socks. I sized mine with thick socks, and
> am happy. My preferred socks are wool hunting socks. I may try some
> others.
>
> My experience includes quite a few 3-hour rides on wet wintry days in
> Vancouver; the Exustars and good socks make such rides perfectly
> tolerable where neoprene booties didn't work for me.
>
> http://www.exustar.com/sm450.php
I've got the low cut version that's based on. It's a boring mtb style
shoe in the best sense. All the stitching and cementing is just fine.
The key is the dead flat wide foot bed which can accept whatever
replacement you prefer--or thick socks, and the simple three velcro
closure. No goofy ratcheting crap to break. You never have to mess
with more than one strap unless you've switched sock thickness. It's a
flexible shoe, but not where the cleat connects, so no hot spot
issues--it just requires your feet to not be lazy clubs.
Tom Keats
Ryan Cousineau <rcou...@gmail.com> writes:
> In article
> <11c6bb1b-d641-4444...@z7g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,
> thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> On 23 Nov, 09:58, bobdobbs <mnite...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > I'm looking for bicycle touring shoes that I can walk in and that are
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> > some cool Shimanos and Lake shoes from the 1980's but nothing is
>> > available like them. �I am not looking for any of the high tech stuff.
>> > I've heard about Cannondale Roams but they seem stiff - any experience
>> > with them? I realize there will be some trade offs, want some support
>> > but also off-cycle availability.
>>
>> Exustar have received acclaim for their touring style shoes in the
>> past.
>
> I am one of their fans. I have both some Duegi winter boots, and the
> Exustars, and I prefer the Exustars. The usual recommendation is to go
> one size big and wear winter socks. I sized mine with thick socks, and
> am happy. My preferred socks are wool hunting socks. I may try some
> others.
>
> My experience includes quite a few 3-hour rides on wet wintry days in
> Vancouver; the Exustars and good socks make such rides perfectly
> tolerable where neoprene booties didn't work for me.
>
> http://www.exustar.com/sm450.php
Strips of inner tube rubber wrapped around my
toe clips and fastened thereon with zipties
work wonders for me in terms of keeping my
street shoes dry and warm.
When awheel, I've found shoes commence to get
wet at the toe-end; further wetnwess ensues
as water soaks into your shoes' uppers from
front to back.
Just keeping rain off the front ends of your shoes
does very much to deter the soaking process.
You are certainly correct in noting that riding shoes
do not have to be completely mummified in neoprene
to keep them warm and dry.
cheers,
Tom
--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca
thirty-six
> In article <rcousine-6FE6FF.23224526112009@[74.223.185.199.nw.nuvox.net]>,
> > <11c6bb1b-d641-4444-8302-1f81d41bc...@z7g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,
Wool socks over shoes and finished with sandwich bags and rubber
bands.
Simon Lewis
No they don't because they only protect the toe.
>
> When awheel, I've found shoes commence to get
> wet at the toe-end; further wetnwess ensues
> as water soaks into your shoes' uppers from
> front to back.
Unless you buy, err, waterproof shows. Believe it or not some clever sod
designed the equivalent of your, chuckle, inner tube rubber but no the
inside of the shoe outer fabric .....
>
> Just keeping rain off the front ends of your shoes
> does very much to deter the soaking process.
Well obviously. But not enough since rain comes of all angles.
>
> You are certainly correct in noting that riding shoes
> do not have to be completely mummified in neoprene
> to keep them warm and dry.
Certainly. My Shimano shoes kept my feet totally dry in heavy storm weather.
>
> cheers,
> Tom
Tom Keats
Simon Lewis <simonle...@gmail.com> writes:
>> Strips of inner tube rubber wrapped around my
>> toe clips and fastened thereon with zipties
>> work wonders for me in terms of keeping my
>> street shoes dry and warm.
>
> No they don't because they only protect the toe.
I speak from imperical experience. If you choose
to disbelieve me, that's fine.
>> When awheel, I've found shoes commence to get
>> wet at the toe-end; further wetnwess ensues
>> as water soaks into your shoes' uppers from
>> front to back.
>
> Unless you buy, err, waterproof shows. Believe it or not some clever sod
> designed the equivalent of your, chuckle, inner tube rubber but no the
> inside of the shoe outer fabric .....
>
>>
>> Just keeping rain off the front ends of your shoes
>> does very much to deter the soaking process.
>
> Well obviously. But not enough since rain comes of all angles.
Rain that just falls on ya is inconsequential; the outer parts
of one's garb just gets wet. ScotchGuard and certain fabrics
deal quite handily with that.
The trick is to deal with rainwater that gets pounded and driven
into your clothing. It's not so much the drizzling rain a rider
has to contend with, it's the rain ~water~ with which riders
frontally collide.
The point I've learned while living in West Pluvia (AKA
Vancouver, BC) is to protect one's leading surfaces more
than one's topside or trailing surfaces from rain.
Even when walking in the rain, you'll see how it's the
front of you that gets wet, while the back parts stay
relatively dry.
Maybe a pair of $900 Kevlar/Gortex/digital shoes and
the opportunity for consumers to lighten their wallets
is the answer. I'm sure there'd be a market for 'em.
My inner tube rubber strips are cheap, and readily available.
And they work elegantly, despite your doubts.
thirty-six
>
> Strips of inner tube rubber wrapped around my
> toe clips and fastened thereon with zipties
> work wonders for me in terms of keeping my
> street shoes dry and warm.
Are you just protecting the welt or are you creating a full toe cap?
Are these also the broad plastic toe clips or steel?
Chalo
>
> Wool socks over shoes and finished with sandwich bags and rubber
> bands.
Awesome.
Tom Keats
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> writes:
> On 28 Nov, 20:26, tkeats2...@hotmail.com (Tom Keats) wrote:
>
>>
>> Strips of inner tube rubber wrapped around my
>> toe clips and fastened thereon with zipties
>> work wonders for me in terms of keeping my
>> street shoes dry and warm.
>
> Are you just protecting the welt or are you creating a full toe cap?
>
> Are these also the broad plastic toe clips or steel?
They are the broad plastic MTB toe clips with roomy, square
toe boxes, and my inner tube rubber strips go all the way
around them. They provide coverage from the toe ends of my
shoes to about half-way up the instep.
When riding in pluvial conditions I find my shins
get wetter than my shoes, because they more frontally
bear the brunt of the weather I'm riding into. My
tactics for that consist of either wearing rain pants,
or rain cape + knee-high gaiters. At any rate, I can
ride in a rainstorm and come back home drier than if
I had walked.
A nice byproduct of the rubber strips on toeclips thing
is that it also keeps that icy northerly winter wind off
my li'l toesies. The rubber strips are basically fairings.
One doesn't need fancy neoprene scuba gear to ride
comfortably in the rain. One also doesn't have to
outlay a bunch of expense. That's a good thing, n'est pas?
thirty-six
> In article <3f78fd32-69c4-4dc2-9a0d-333d0caa6...@a21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
I think I'll revert to toeclipped pedals on bike #2 unless I can work
a toe box onto the spd style pedal and it still be usable. Do you
think a toebox of say 1.1/4 depth will be a comforting as using
spats, but without the hassle?
thirty-six
That's what we had to use with mesh racing shoes through the winter
before neoprene booties were available. Or there was, I think leather
toe boxes or you could use spats.
It seems to have rained most days here over the last month and the
water's getting colder. Time to rethink protection.
My mesh shoes only come out in warm weather and should it still rain,
as it does here, I still have emergency toe protectors to guard
against road spray when I use them. It's easy to slip the polythene
under a strap closure to hold the bag in place and the bands just
neaten things up. No room taken up in the bar bag.
Tom Keats
Maybe, with the right kind of cycling tights that stay
relatively warm, and tend to bead-up rain rather than
soaking it up -- if that's the approach you choose.
Since much of my own riding is practical/transportational,
I prefer to have the easily accessible pockets available
in regular street clothing. That way I don't have to
reach under the back of a bum-flap-inflicted windshell to
get my bike lock key or wallet out of one of the three back
pockets of a cycling jersey, when I park by the shops.
My rubber strips are a little wider than the cross-sections
of my shoes; I think that also does much to keep my shoen
dry in the rain while allowing good ventilation and yet
keeping the chill of the wind off my feet.
I guess the first main thing is for each of us to experiment
and determine what works for us, and the second main thing is
to share whatever we learn. Maybe the other way around is not
so productive. On that note, I invite all to try whatever
seemingly fredly approaches occur to them. I figure some would
work wonderfully right off the bat, some might need a li'l
fine tuning, and some might require, well, further thought.
I welcome other's ideas to try, myself. At least, ideas
I haven't already tried.
thirty-six
> In article <cd34e22b-6032-4d08-bb5d-48956d9b6...@u20g2000vbq.googlegroups.com>,
I've spent ten minutes thinking about it and considered that the best
material for a toe box whether with or without clips is rubber. I was
trying to think how I would mould such a thing, started thinking of
protective wear generally, thought of silicon oven gloves, and it
occurred to me that the toe area of a pair of cheap wellies should do
the trick. Made for the job, with an additional supporting bracket.
But can it be bettered, before I go on the hunt for the cheap wellies?
Tom Keats
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> writes:
>> My rubber strips are a little wider than the cross-sections
>> of my shoes; I think that also does much to keep my shoen
>> dry in the rain while allowing good ventilation and yet
>> keeping the chill of the wind off my feet.
>>
>> I guess the first main thing is for each of us to experiment
>> and determine what works for us, and the second main thing is
>> to share whatever we learn. �Maybe the other way around is not
>> so productive. �On that note, I invite all to try whatever
>> seemingly fredly approaches occur to them. �I figure some would
>> work wonderfully right off the bat, some might need a li'l
>> fine tuning, and some might require, well, further thought.
>> I welcome other's ideas to try, myself. �At least, ideas
>> I haven't already tried.
>>
> I've spent ten minutes thinking about it and considered that the best
> material for a toe box whether with or without clips is rubber. I was
> trying to think how I would mould such a thing, started thinking of
> protective wear generally, thought of silicon oven gloves, and it
> occurred to me that the toe area of a pair of cheap wellies should do
> the trick. Made for the job, with an additional supporting bracket.
> But can it be bettered, before I go on the hunt for the cheap wellies?
Please experiment, and see for yourself whatever works.
Toe-ends of gumboots mounted onto pedals sounds delightfully
innovative. The proof of the pudding remains to be decided upon.
I have a pair of wellies buried somewhere under my own domestic
heap of rubble. I'd like to dig them out and try your idea.
I will get back to you about that.
Tom Keats
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> writes:
> Made for the job, with an additional supporting bracket.
> But can it be bettered, before I go on the hunt for the cheap wellies?
Further to my previous post, I'd shy away from metal parts in
gumboots (wellies) in wintery weather. Since I must wear
steel toed footwear at my job (oftimes in an unheated crossdock
warehouse,) please understand I know whereof I speak. The cheap
wellies may be the answer.
I hear other supporting materials in work footwear, such as ceramics
or fibreglass, are reputed to not transfer coldness as much as metal.
I guess the ideal thing would be to adapt a stiffish yet somewhat
walkable cyling shoe (such as the Carnac[tm] Ventoux) and the
rider's feet within them, to wet wintery conditions, while protecting
the shoes themselves.
thirty-six
> In article <e12a1648-6fec-4262-a2ea-207851fff...@p8g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>,
None spare here and not due to be replaced. With a rubber tread pedal
it should be simple enough to screw a plate to one side and stitch the
toe area of the sole to the plate. I would go with attempting to
cover the whole of the top of the foot for the worst of winter
weather, but probably only the tootsies for above slush temperatures.
DougC
I bought a $80 pair of these once, and found this out the hard way also.
I was kinda surprised that as good as Shimano seemed to be at making all
other kinds of cycling stuff, that they would only bother to make riding
shoes for Masai tribesmen. I guess it certainly simplifies their
production and ordering issues..... and their bookkeeping as well.
I could only assume that the featherweight people that Shimano shoes are
made for must be the same ones buying these road wheels with only twelve
or ten spokes. I am sorely out of shape (fat) now, but even when I /was/
in shape, I still weighed about 1.75 "featherweights". :\
And then the real comedy: I never returned them. I was busy at the time,
traveling a lot, they got stashed somewhere and then found again....
several years later. I've pondered just giving them away for free on
Craigslist, but I suspect that someone who didn't cycle would take them
and try to wear them just for normal shoes----and then throw them away a
week later.
I later found a $30 pair of Forte MTB shoes online that fit perfect, and
that I'm still using.
~
Simon Lewis
I never cease to be amated at some of the convoluted stories I hear
here.
I have a wide foot. The Shimano mtb shoes fir great and have a lot of
adjustment range.
Did it never cross your mind to try them on?
>
> I was kinda surprised that as good as Shimano seemed to be at making all
> other kinds of cycling stuff, that they would only bother to make riding
> shoes for Masai tribesmen. I guess it certainly simplifies their
> production and ordering issues..... and their bookkeeping as well.
Yeah, how stupid of them. They make shoes that no one care wear ....
>
> I could only assume that the featherweight people that Shimano shoes are
> made for must be the same ones buying these road wheels with only twelve
> or ten spokes. I am sorely out of shape (fat) now, but even when I /was/
> in shape, I still weighed about 1.75 "featherweights". :\
>
> And then the real comedy: I never returned them. I was busy at the time,
> traveling a lot, they got stashed somewhere and then found again....
> several years later. I've pondered just giving them away for free on
> Craigslist, but I suspect that someone who didn't cycle would take them
> and try to wear them just for normal shoes----and then throw them away a
> week later.
>
> I later found a $30 pair of Forte MTB shoes online that fit perfect, and
> that I'm still using.
Rocket Science point : try them on first ...
Tom Sherman °_°
I have a pair of Shimano MTB shoes that are acceptable for riding
off-road on an upright for a couple of hours or for shorter rides on a
low BB recumbent. They are a little too tight across the front of my
foot, and become painful after a few minutes on the higher BB
recumbents. I can ride the same bikes with my "Mega" width SiDi
Dominators all day long without this pain occurring.
As always, YMMV.
Peter Cole
I've used thin latex overboots from an industrial supply house
(McMaster-Carr). The benefit was that latex is stretchy enough to seal
well at the top just by folding it over & compressing it under the cuff
of my tights. I just cut small holes for my SPD cleats. The problem
(besides yellow being the only color) is that the material tears pretty
easily, and is a bit of a nuisance to get on & off. I'd experiment more
with other rubber overboots, but my size 16 feet make that difficult. I
haven't found the neoprene overboots typically sold to cyclists to work
very well
I'd go with the hassle of the latex overboots for an all-day cold, wet
ride, but fortunately I don't do those very often. For shorter rides I
just use thin poly bags over my socks. Not a perfect solution since foot
sweat is trapped and your shoes still get wet, but for rides of moderate
length and intensity it works well enough. On rainy days my newspaper
gets delivered in bags of nearly ideal dimensions and thickness -- a
happy coincidence. Under tights, the tops seal pretty well against the skin.
thirty-six
I've just found an alternative to my usual thin polythene sandwich
bags. It a bag for cotton wool pads. This is a thicker gauge but
will likely tear at the seam. I think it might be useful to cut and
weld polythene shoe covers if a sealer be available for free or cheap
rather than messing with standard bags and tape/string/rubber bands or
getting all sweaty. Mind you, it's not too bad if wearing thick wool
socks, to have the bags inside the shoes.
Ryan Cousineau
<1ee8fba4-2ee2-43ed...@m25g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
Chalo <chalo....@gmail.com> wrote:
At some point, you have to just admit you've reinvented the gumboot,
stick the wool socks inside, and move on.
Nothing wrong with that,
thirty-six
>
> Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > thirty-six wrote:
>
> > > Wool socks over shoes and finished with sandwich bags and rubber
> > > bands.
>
> > Awesome.
>
> At some point, you have to just admit you've reinvented the gumboot,
> stick the wool socks inside, and move on.
They interfere with the pedalling action. They need to be cut right
down at the back to enable cycling without chafing and unecessary
energy loss. I just couldnyt do it to a good pair of boots. Also ,
then they would not be ideal for walking in.
>
> Nothing wrong with that,
>
> --
> Ryan Cousineau rcous...@gmail.comhttp://www.wiredcola.com/