| Another big annoyance was that the maps and routes provided by the tour
| company were impossible to follow. As usual, 50% of my time on the road
| was spent being lost. The first day, I made a concerted effort to follow
| the instuctions, which took on little paths through fields. There was an
| ambiguous or outright wrong turning every km or so. This was so in the
| middle of nowhere, that I could have disappeared from the earth and
| they'd only find the body three years later. The worst was a gravel path
| that was completely blocked with enormous puddles, about 15 inches deep.
| Widders, all 25 kg of him, had to be _carried_ through the brush, and
| this for over a kilometer. Moreover, although I had a GPS, it was
| useless because the stupid thing (TomTom, not recommended) only knows
| about routes for cars.
Best bet is to get the departmental Michelin maps. The print is tiny, but if
you've got a digital camera, here's a trick that can help you out. Put it
into "macro" mode (for close ups) and take a photo of the relevant part of
the map. Then view it on the screen, zooming it in to see the details. Works
incredibly well.
| I was able to prove that Widdershins, folded, bound and wrapped up in a
| slipcover, can travel perfectly happily on French TGV lines and is
| within regulations. Despite the fact that I was occupying a prodigious
| amount of space, no one even commented. Many kind people offered to help
| me with the luggage, and even the staff seemed perfectly at ease with
| this cargo. The only recommendation is that Widders must always travel
| First Class, where there is much more space. Luckily I had taken that
| into account.
I never considered that there might be more space available in the
vestibules of the 1st class cars. That could be a compelling reason to
travel 1st class with a bike; the price differential isn't all that much.
| Vaison la Romaine was my favorite stop of the trip. The hotel was right
| in the central plaza and there was a cornucopia spread of eateries. Also
| the town had an excellent, OPEN bike shop, beautiful Roman ruins, and on
| Tuesday, a famous market. I visited a statue, a rather unflattering,
| scowling one, of the Emperor Hadrian, one of my tutelary deities (not
| having a nose never did much for anyone). And that day, I decided that I
| would not even attempt the 65 km distance to the next stop, Isle sur
| Sorgue, because my tortured feet could never bear it and because the
| taxi that was transferring my luggage could transfer me as well. That
| was great - a day of peace. And the hotel at Isle was extremely
| luxurious. Same thing about being prisoner because it was too far out of
| town, but at least this overpriced restaurant was reasonably good, and
| had portions of normal size.
I've ridden the same areas, and it is, indeed, a beautiful place to visit.
The old ruins are impressive.
| Now I'm back doing laundry. At Antony market this morning I bought
| lovely fresh things with a Provençal slant - artichokes, tomatoes, lots
| of herbs, some beef fillet for carpaccio, whiting fillets, asparagus and
| gorgeous goat cheese. Gotta go cook!
Sounds great! One practical question: Do you do laundry in the hotel sink,
or look for a local laudromat?
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Artemisia" <nos
...@free.fr> wrote in message
news:482c781d$0$15492$426a74cc@news.free.fr...
| Back since Friday from touring Provence on my recumbent trike,
Widdershins.
| Here's a non-exhaustive performance account.
|
| I was able to prove that Widdershins, folded, bound and wrapped up in a
| slipcover, can travel perfectly happily on French TGV lines and is
| within regulations. Despite the fact that I was occupying a prodigious
| amount of space, no one even commented. Many kind people offered to help
| me with the luggage, and even the staff seemed perfectly at ease with
| this cargo. The only recommendation is that Widders must always travel
| First Class, where there is much more space. Luckily I had taken that
| into account.
|
| Widdershins also surprised me with his outstanding performances in
| traffic, both on large roads (against my wishes, I ended up on the
| Nationale 7 between Caumont and Avignon), and within towns. I bought him
| as a touring bike, I return with a suspicion that he aspires to be a
| city-bike. These are areas where Flyzipper fails me altogether. Widders
| is impeccably polite at traffic lights, stopping and restarting on
| command. He waits his turn to enter roundabouts, permits me to signal,
| and then gets quickly out of the way of faster traffic. He can even inch
| his way at 20 metres per hour through pedestrian quarters, respectful
| and patient behind old ladies with their walking cages, who do not even
| notice there's a metallic orange monster arachnid just behind them.
|
| However, I'm not really finding him comfortable over distances, and here
| we have some glitches to work out. The worst was the excruciatng pain
| caused by the SPD pedals and clip-in shoes. This was torture after the
| first few kilometers. A long discussion in the cycling newsgroups helped
| somewhat, as I was able to adjust the position of the clip to hurt less,
| but these still are not comfort shoes by a long way. The SPD shoes also
| meant that I couldn't really walk anywhere.
|
| I feel the road much more than on an upright bike. I especially hate the
| configuration of a cambered road, cycling lane on one side, and ditch
| just next to the lane. All my effort goes into keeping out of the ditch,
| and however flat, such roads are always uphill.
|
| The wireless bike computer (Sigma BC2006 - piece of shite) also conked
| out after the first 6km. It was new, an essential navigation tool, and
| this was infuriating. On the upside, I discovered what it would have
| helped to know from the beginning - no need for a wireless, it is
| perfectly possible to position a wired model on the mudguard mount. So
| Widders now has a bog standard Sigma 1600, just like my other bikes,
| courtesy of a very nice bike shop in Vaison la Romaine.
|
| Travelling with Widdershins is a bitch. I have to allow about an hour
| and a half for the dismantling or reassembly - a VERY far cry from the
| 90 seconds folding time advertized on the Web site! "Quick release
| levers" is a joke. The central lever, that permits the bike to fold or
| holds it rigid, works or not, entirely on its own terms, and in its own
| time. You might get lucky and compact the bike in half an hour - or you
| could be there, struggling in a pool of sweat, until the train has left.
| The wheels too, are very tricky to remove and replace, and every time
| they have been out of the bike they get "voilées" - I don't know the
| English expression - it means that they stick in the brakes and do not
| turn fluidly. On the way into Vaison, the left wheel was so stuck that
| the trike was drawing to a halt on downhill runs! When he delivered the
| trike, my Darth told me that this is because the brakes must absolutely
| not be touched, or the levers activated, when the wheels are not in
| their axels. All very well, but it is pertty much impossible to edge
| them in or out without touching the brakes, and you have no control over
| what happens to the levers when the covered bike is being squeezed into
| a train compartment or a taxi. The manual says that the brakes should be
| blocked with the clips used in delivery - but I was given no such clips.
| I tried bits of cardboard on the way back but they didn't stay in. This
| is a big glitch to sort out because I cannot go to the Darth to get the
| brakes readjusted every single time the bike has been folded.
|
| Trike apart, the trip had its ups and downs. The base hotel in Avignon
| was so far out of town that once you were there, you were its prisoner.
| It had a restaurant, but this was pretentious and exorbitantly priced,
| with portions so small as to be insulting. On the day of arrival I
| hadn't eaten all day. The entrée was four little steamed asparagus tips
| and four prawns with a dollop of pesto in the middle; the main course
| arrived with an enormous papillote which proved, on unwrapping, to
| contain about 3 tablespoons of overcooked fish. Plus despite
| systematically starting at 7:30 they never could get me served in time
| for the weather report at 8:45. Never has so little food taken so long
| to serve. In compensation, this hotel had a lovely pool. But no sooner
| in, than I destroyed my beloved Timex Ironman watch, which was supposed
| to be waterproof and wasn't at all. So first day in Avignon was all
| about getting a replacement watch and a real lunch. After a day of
| trekking papal cobblestones in 30° heat, I still had the 6km walk back
| (not confident enough yet to use Widders), and very sore feet. It
| forced the realization that the most precious things in life are cool
| water and shade.
|
| Another big annoyance was that the maps and routes provided by the tour
| company were impossible to follow. As usual, 50% of my time on the road
| was spent being lost. The first day, I made a concerted effort to follow
| the instuctions, which took on little paths through fields. There was an
| ambiguous or outright wrong turning every km or so. This was so in the
| middle of nowhere, that I could have disappeared from the earth and
| they'd only find the body three years later. The worst was a gravel path
| that was completely blocked with enormous puddles, about 15 inches deep.
| Widders, all 25 kg of him, had to be _carried_ through the brush, and
| this for over a kilometer. Moreover, although I had a GPS, it was
| useless because the stupid thing (TomTom, not recommended) only knows
| about routes for cars. After that, I stuck to Départementales - they may
| not be so pretty but at least there is some hope of _signposting_, and
| the dangers from passing traffic ultimately seemed to me much less than
...
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