I've noticed that some entry level bikes are offered with "steel" spokes, some with "stainless steel," still others with "UCP spokes."
I'm in the market for an entry level mountain bike, primarily for rough and unpaved roads. I'll be riding occasionally and in good weather. I appreciate a good bike and know enough to go for the service of a bike shop, but this one is still gonna be a low budget buy.
Of course stainless is lighter and doesn't rust. Are "steel" spokes protected from rust in some way? And, what is "UCP?" Is it a brand (like DT Swiss) or type of material?
Also, what's your experience with rigid "hybrids" on rough and/or unpaved roads?
Thanks all;
Isaac Brumer isaacbru...@hotdeletethisnospammail.com
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Isaac Brumer writes: > I've noticed that some entry level bikes are offered with "steel" > spokes, some with "stainless steel," still others with "UCP spokes."
The best spokes available are all stainless steel mainly because plated spokes all rust, primarily in the threads, there where it does the most damage. Rusty threads cannot be turned and over the years, that inability has lead to stainless steel spokes that are at least as durable as any non stainless ones offered.
> Of course stainless is lighter and doesn't rust. Are "steel" spokes > protected from rust in some way? And, what is "UCP?" Is it a brand > (like DT Swiss) or type of material?
Of course they are not lighter, steel being steel. The only difference is that stainless spokes often have a swaged mid section that is about 10% more slender. Non stainless spokes are cadmium or zinc plated but this doesn't give long term protection. For track bikes (especially indoor), chromed spokes in swaged format have been offered although I haven't seen any lately.
> I've noticed that some entry level bikes are offered with "steel" > spokes, some with "stainless steel," still others with "UCP spokes."
> I'm in the market for an entry level mountain bike, primarily for rough > and unpaved roads. I'll be riding occasionally and in good weather. I > appreciate a good bike and know enough to go for the service of a bike > shop, but this one is still gonna be a low budget buy.
> Of course stainless is lighter and doesn't rust. Are "steel" spokes > protected from rust in some way? And, what is "UCP?" Is it a brand > (like DT Swiss) or type of material?
> Also, what's your experience with rigid "hybrids" on rough and/or > unpaved roads?
> Thanks all;
> Isaac Brumer > isaacbru...@hotdeletethisnospammail.com
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
I'll defer to Mr. Brandt on your spoke questions. Regarding the use of a rigid frame, hybrid or MTB, on unpaved roads - I wouldn't recommend it. When I first bought my rigid MTB, I thought the majority of my riding would be gentle singletrack and fireroads. Although I quickly discovered that I enjoyed technical singletrack, that's another story. I also discovered that the pounding I took even on fireroads that looked fairly smooth really ruined my enjoyment of the ride. I added a front shock as soon as I could afford it. If the majority of your riding will be on the pavement, you could go with a rigid hybrid and tame the roughness with the correct choice in tires and tire pressures - possibly even investing in a suspension seatpost. If you are going to spend most of your time off-road, get a decent MTB with a front shock.
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> > I've noticed that some entry level bikes are offered with "steel" > > spokes, some with "stainless steel," still others with "UCP spokes."
> The best spokes available are all stainless steel mainly because > plated spokes all rust, primarily in the threads, there where it > does the most damage. Rusty threads cannot be turned and over the > years, that inability has lead to stainless steel spokes that are > at least as durable as any non stainless ones offered.
> > Of course stainless is lighter and doesn't rust. Are "steel" spokes > > protected from rust in some way? And, what is "UCP?" Is it a brand > > (like DT Swiss) or type of material?
> Of course they are not lighter, steel being steel. The only > difference is that stainless spokes often have a swaged mid section > that is about 10% more slender. Non stainless spokes are cadmium or > zinc plated but this doesn't give long term protection. For track > bikes (especially indoor), chromed spokes in swaged format have been > offered although I haven't seen any lately.
In <7r3t5r$ga...@hplms2.hpl.hp.com> jbra...@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>Isaac Brumer writes: >> Of course stainless is lighter and doesn't rust. Are "steel" spokes >> protected from rust in some way? And, what is "UCP?" Is it a brand >> (like DT Swiss) or type of material? >Of course they are not lighter, steel being steel. The only >difference is that stainless spokes often have a swaged mid section >that is about 10% more slender. Non stainless spokes are cadmium or >zinc plated but this doesn't give long term protection. For track >bikes (especially indoor), chromed spokes in swaged format have been >offered although I haven't seen any lately.
My first guess would be that UCP is Union Chrome Plated -- Union is a large producer of non-stainless spokes, and their chrome plated spokes are decent quality and very shiny, which sells well for cruisers and low-riders. As far as I know they only produce them in plain, not butted, and I don't remember any size thinner than 14ga.
But that's all just my first guess on what UCP would mean. I must confess to having paid almost no attention to the non-stainless spokes in my Union catalog, and it's not handy now to look at.
>> Also, what's your experience with rigid "hybrids" on rough and/or >> unpaved roads?
>> Thanks all;
>> Isaac Brumer >> isaacbru...@hotdeletethisnospammail.com
>I'll defer to Mr. Brandt on your spoke questions. Regarding the use of >a rigid frame, hybrid or MTB, on unpaved roads - I wouldn't recommend >it. When I first bought my rigid MTB, I thought the majority of my >riding would be gentle singletrack and fireroads. Although I quickly >discovered that I enjoyed technical singletrack, that's another story. >I also discovered that the pounding I took even on fireroads that >looked fairly smooth really ruined my enjoyment of the ride. I added a >front shock as soon as I could afford it. If the majority of your >riding will be on the pavement, you could go with a rigid hybrid and >tame the roughness with the correct choice in tires and tire pressures - > possibly even investing in a suspension seatpost. If you are going to >spend most of your time off-road, get a decent MTB with a front shock.
If all you need to do is take the edge off the usual small bumps and ruts you'll find on gravel and fireroads then I recommend a Softride Suspension Stem. Been using mine for 5 or 6 years now. For serious off roading I'd go with the sus fork.
j...@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) wrote: >My first guess would be that UCP is Union Chrome Plated -- Union >is a large producer of non-stainless spokes, and their chrome >plated spokes are decent quality and very shiny, which sells >well for cruisers and low-riders. As far as I know they only >produce them in plain, not butted, and I don't remember any size >thinner than 14ga.
Really? I have lots of wheels done in Union butted chrome spokes, but they are all decades old. I agree that the next time (if there ever is a next time) I'll rebuild these with stainless. The chrome spokes look great when new, but eventually they develope rust spots and freeze in their nipples.
Jim - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jad...@vwtype3.org Madison,Wisconsin USA -----------------------------------------------
In <37d73030.12541...@news.doit.wisc.edu> jad...@vwtype3.org (Jim Adney) writes:
>j...@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) wrote: >>My first guess would be that UCP is Union Chrome Plated -- Union >>is a large producer of non-stainless spokes, and their chrome >>plated spokes are decent quality and very shiny, which sells >>well for cruisers and low-riders. As far as I know they only >>produce them in plain, not butted, and I don't remember any size >>thinner than 14ga. >Really? I have lots of wheels done in Union butted chrome spokes, but >they are all decades old.
I suspect anyone who cares enough to want butted spokes has gone to stainless, while chrome is left for those who prefer the extra gleam. Chrome spokes seem especially popular on high-flange 68-spoke radially laced wheels for low-riders, and I doubt people buying those wheels are terribly concerned with either weight or durability.
Thanks: I realize that I should have focused on tire size rather than the "mountain vs. hybrid" distinction. I've been offroad on rigid fat tire MTBs and been quite happy. I've also ridden a 700x23 and find that it's doable but the wheels are too wobbly on the loose surface for enjoyment. Bumps don't bother me much. My main riding turf is the streets of New York City. I was wondering about people's experience with the medium width tires typical of hybrids.
Isaac In article <37d70dea.39638...@news.alterdial.uu.net>, car...@cs.net (Perry Ruebay) wrote:
> >> Also, what's your experience with rigid "hybrids" on rough and/or > >> unpaved roads?
> >> Thanks all;
> >> Isaac Brumer > >> isaacbru...@hotdeletethisnospammail.com
> >I'll defer to Mr. Brandt on your spoke questions. Regarding the use of > >a rigid frame, hybrid or MTB, on unpaved roads - I wouldn't recommend > >it. When I first bought my rigid MTB, I thought the majority of my > >riding would be gentle singletrack and fireroads. Although I quickly > >discovered that I enjoyed technical singletrack, that's another story. > >I also discovered that the pounding I took even on fireroads that > >looked fairly smooth really ruined my enjoyment of the ride. I added a > >front shock as soon as I could afford it. If the majority of your > >riding will be on the pavement, you could go with a rigid hybrid and > >tame the roughness with the correct choice in tires and tire pressures - > > possibly even investing in a suspension seatpost. If you are going to > >spend most of your time off-road, get a decent MTB with a front shock.
> If all you need to do is take the edge off the usual small bumps and > ruts you'll find on gravel and fireroads then I recommend a Softride > Suspension Stem. Been using mine for 5 or 6 years now. For serious > off roading I'd go with the sus fork.
> -Mark
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