Removing oil stains in concrete?
Ed Wischmeyer
concrete floor? At the new house, the half of the garage that is going
to become airplane shop has a fair number of stains. There is no surface
oil that has to be dealt with, so this is really just cosmetic, but...
It would also be nice to paint the floor, but my impression is that that
really can only be done to fresh, clean concrete, and this concrete is
about 10 years old and not fresh.
thanks!
Ed Wischmeyer
Bart D. Hull
I Epoxy painted the floor of my garage about 7 years ago with
Sherwin-Williams Epoxy floor paint. The floor was extensively stained
with oil spots. I used a 20" floor sander to remove all old paint, then
used a strong TSP solution to remove the oil stains. Haven't had any of
it lift except where the front tires of my pickup truck pulled it up.
(As I understand it, hot rubber will pull up ANY paint. Only thing I
have done is to put pieces of carpet where the front tires sit.) I used
a short nap roller to apply 2 coats.
I have dropped brake fluid, oil, acetone, epoxy etc on the floor and it
all cleans up nicely without damaging the paint. If I did it again I'd
put a bit of sand or other grit in the paint to give it a bit more grip.
When its nice and clean it can be a bit slick. (Watch out near the
bead blaster!!!!)
You can look at the airframe pics below to see the floor i'm talking about.
Just my 2 cents.
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Bart D. Hull
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Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/Subaru.html for my Subaru Engine
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Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/tangoII.html for Tango II I'm
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Bart D. Hull
bdh...@inficad.com
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/Subaru.html for my Subaru Engine
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Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/tangoII.html for Tango II I'm
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Dan
it in with your hands. Sweep it up. Enjoy.
Blueskies
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Dan D.
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"Bart D. Hull" <bdh...@inficad.com> wrote in message
news:3EB48D6F...@inficad.com...
Flightdeck
I have tried a bunch of methods to remove oil from concrete floors with only
limited success. Recently, I was doing a few hours of work with a group
doing restorations on "round-engine" aircraft. There were areas on the floor
where the drip pans had not been adequate over the years and there were oil
stains in the concrete. The owner of the hangar decided to move everything
out and lay down an epoxy floor (WHITE!). His contractor used a multi-step
process before putting down the floor coating.
He first used product called "Pour-N-Restore" to remove the oil BEFORE doing
a pressure wash. When the Pour-n-Restore had done its job and the residue
had been sucked up with a shop-vac, (really worked!) he did a pressure wash
using 1/4cup TSP + 1/4 cup "Non-foaming" heavy duty spot remover (for
carpet) per gallon of hot water. The wash was followed by a clear water
rinse by flooding the floor with a hose and using a stiff broom and then a
squeegee. When the floor had dried he did an etch operation using a
muriatic acid solution. The etch was followed by another flood wash. He
said the etch could be done with phosphoric acid also. The etch is required
to provide some "tooth" to the concrete for the epoxy.
The final step before putting down the epoxy coating was to use a large
Shop-Vac to make sure there were no "nits" on the floor.
This contractor swore by an epoxy coating product called "Epoxy Koat" by
National Paint Supply (www.nationalpaintsupply.com)
I was very impressed with the process and used it on a garage floor and on a
patio floor under a big smoker/BBQ. I was able to get the "Pour-N-Restore"
(www.pour-n-restore.com) through a "Sherwin-Williams" paint store. I
ordered the epoxy coating through the National Paint Supply web site at
about $80.00 for each two-gallon kit. They have a bunch of different
colors. The "lady of the house" liked the blue (D80-2). It seemed a little
"pricey", and is shipped via ground from N.J. But, it does have a ten year
warrantee.
A major caution: When you use muriatic acid solution to do an etch, be
really careful! Get everything off of the floor. Put a large fan in the
garage door sucking fresh air through and wear a respirator with the correct
filters. I did a small area and then went out and rented a "hurricane fan"
from a local tool rental.
The finished floor looks great.
J
"Ed Wischmeyer" <edw...@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:3EB484C1...@cableone.net...
Fitzair4
After removing the oil penetration headache.
Wash the floor down with a Muriatic acid & water mixture.
With good ventilation.
Paint with Epoxy Concrete Paint.
Mix the paint with a very light sand. In your working
areas. Clean painted floors are slippery.
Had my full time work shop hanger and car garage, painted with
Epoxy Paint 22 years ago. Excellant surface yet, today.
Epoxy Resin is one of the better adhesives for bonding broken
concrete back togeather.
Forgot one tip, Use a lot of elbow grease!!!!!!!!!!
Larry Fitzgerald
Ed Wischmeyer
TSP is tri-sodium phosphate, more or less that active ingredient in
detergents but without the fillers, perfumes, all that. It's available
at hardware stores. "Strong TSP" means that you mix it up in
over-concentrated form.
Ed Wischmeyer
Clay
Try Klenztone products. I have been using them for years. I used
Klenztone #1 to clean up a 40 year old wearhouse floor at a salt mine.
Works perfectly.
Very safe to use. Apply the Klenztone #1 and let it sit. I used a
broom to help break up the deposits. Keep the floor wet with the
Klenztone #1. I like to leave it on for as long as possible. When
ready to remove, hose off and remove the residue with a wet vac. I
perfer to use a pressure washer.
Contact Mike Bruce at Industrial Repair Technology, 1035-D N.E. Jib
Court, Lee's Summit, Missouri 64064. Phone 816-795-1106 FAX
816-795-0211
Blueskies
--
Dan D.
.
"Ed Wischmeyer" <edw...@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:3EB51536...@cableone.net...
Roger Halstead
<jayfm...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I have tried a bunch of methods to remove oil from concrete floors with only
>limited success.
<snip>
>
>He first used product called "Pour-N-Restore" to remove the oil BEFORE doing
>a pressure wash. When the Pour-n-Restore had done its job and the residue
>had been sucked up with a shop-vac, (really worked!) he did a pressure wash
>using 1/4cup TSP + 1/4 cup "Non-foaming" heavy duty spot remover (for
>carpet) per gallon of hot water. The wash was followed by a clear water
>rinse by flooding the floor with a hose and using a stiff broom and then a
>squeegee. When the floor had dried he did an etch operation using a
>muriatic acid solution. The etch was followed by another flood wash. He
>said the etch could be done with phosphoric acid also. The etch is required
>to provide some "tooth" to the concrete for the epoxy.
>
>The final step before putting down the epoxy coating was to use a large
>Shop-Vac to make sure there were no "nits" on the floor.
>
I used a similar approach on a new floor. That the floor was new
didn't mean it was clean. The construction equipment had leaked oil
and grease as well as some pretty heavy tire scuff marks.
I used the floor cleaner (don't remember what brand) mixed up fairly
strong with hot water and went over the floor with a "barn broom",
giving it a good scrubbing
I then rinsed the floor using a 3000# pressure washer with clean, soft
water. Basically I used the pressure washer to "blow" all the soapy
water out the door(s). I also discovered the "low spot" was not at the
big door where it belonged, but right in the middle of the south wall
where my cabinets and work bench would go.
I repeated the wash/scrub and pressure rinse three times.
I did not use the pressure washer with the etch. That was put on and
let set for the specified time. The it was pressure washed out the
door. This process was repeated twice.
(This is a good place to remember your safety equipment and
practices...The chemicals are hazardous and the equipment dangerous)
The floor was let dry thoroughly (I have an overhead IR hanger
heater). Them given a coat of two part epoxy. This took a full helmet
and breathing air.(with the furnace turned off).
The floor was made of high strength concrete with a high fiber
content. After the final wash it looked like it needed a haircut.
I figured that the epoxy would cover the fibers, but unfortunately it
did cover them with epoxy and then pulled them up into a peaked shape.
It was definitely a non skid floor. So, I thought maybe a second coat
would fill in. It did, but not enough, so I went out and rented one
of those big heavy, orbital floor sanders and did the whole floor.
With the exception of the west end where I bring in the lawn equipment
and have the machine tools, I gave the floor a third coat. It came
out great, but that smooth floor is no place for sawdust, or wet
shoes. The west end still has the two coats with a sanded surface.
Every chemical was purchased at Lowe's and after three years the floor
still looks good.
Although time consuming, there was nothing a single person could not
do by themselves with the proper equipment.
Neglecting the drying time it should be possible to do a 2000 to 3000
sql foot floor in less than a day. Give it two days of drying time
after the wash, unless the building is heated and the atmosphere is
extremely dry. It would still be well to err on the conservative
side.
>This contractor swore by an epoxy coating product called "Epoxy Koat" by
>National Paint Supply (www.nationalpaintsupply.com)
I used the plain old two part light gray and silver ValSpar (TM)
Garage Floor Epoxy Finish sold by Lowe's. ( I just went out and looked
at the cans). As I recall it runs around $38 a gallon. (two gallon
pails half full) You do not work with this stuff in a closed room, or
open flames. Wearing the proper breathing equipment is a *must* and a
respirator will not cut it. you need a full hood with air provided. I
used a squirrel cage fan with 1 1/2 inch hose for low pressure air.
>I was very impressed with the process and used it on a garage floor and on a
>patio floor under a big smoker/BBQ. I was able to get the "Pour-N-Restore"
>(www.pour-n-restore.com) through a "Sherwin-Williams" paint store. I
>ordered the epoxy coating through the National Paint Supply web site at
>about $80.00 for each two-gallon kit. They have a bunch of different
>colors. The "lady of the house" liked the blue (D80-2). It seemed a little
>"pricey", and is shipped via ground from N.J. But, it does have a ten year
>warrantee.
I don't know the warranty of the ValSpar (tm), and your color choice
is light, or dark gray in gloss, or semi gloss. It has held up with
one year of parking the cars in there with no lifting of paint and two
years of shop work..
It looks pretty much like it did when I put it in with the exception
of the area close to the welding bench <:-)) That would probably be
fine except for all the cutting torch work I've done since painting.
In the last couple of years I've gone through two sets of tanks on the
torch and over 40# of wire through the Mig welder.
I would also have a Tig welder, plasma torch, Lathe and floor mill,
except the market tanked about the week before I was ready to send in
the order <sigh> Man, but there are times when I sure wished I had
them. They'd save me a lot of time. The'd also save me the time of
trying to explain to a machinist what I want. <:-)) Sometimes that is
more difficult than making the part.
Actually I had a plasma torch, but it wasn't what I ordered. I wanted
one of the big ones that requires shop air. The supplier thought I'd
be happy with the little self contained unit. I wan't, but I think I
put 20 plus hours on it before they finally took it back. It did
great on thin stuff including aluminum (and cast, which a torch can't
do), but it fell kinda short on the heavy I-beams and boiler
plate<:-)) By the time they decided I really did know what I needed I
told them to forget it as I'd already done the major work with the
torch.
Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)
Blueskies
spikes. Let you walk right over the "paint" without any major issues. Saw
this on the folks who put down the coating at work...
Ian Stirling
>
> Does anybody know how to remove or at least diminish oil stains in a
> concrete floor? At the new house, the half of the garage that is going
> to become airplane shop has a fair number of stains. There is no surface
> oil that has to be dealt with, so this is really just cosmetic, but...
Stain the rest of the floor to match?
--
http://inquisitor.i.am/ | mailto:inqui...@i.am | Ian Stirling.
---------------------------+-------------------------+--------------------------
Two parrots sitting on a perch. One asks the other, "Can you smell fish?"
Sandy
down oil right down to the molecular structure. It'll be in stores soon.
"Ian Stirling" <ro...@mauve.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
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Blueskies
everything we can throw at it...
--
Dan D.
.
"Blueskies" <d...@cd.com> wrote in message
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Larry Smith
use kitty litter to absorb the spilt oil. That's what we do ---- leaves no
trace.
"Blueskies" <d...@cd.com> wrote in message
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Harry Burns
Concrete Stain instead of epoxy. (Do not use H & H Shield Plus). I sold this
product at Sherwin-Williams for 6 years. It was the only product we (and our
spec. manuals) recomended for concrete with vehicle traffic. I does not lift
from hot tires. We tested it on our loading dock pad with a 38,000lb
18-wheeler trailer every week for over 2 years. Not a single problem.
However, it did eventually wear out under the door, but that was caused by the
polyurethane wheels on our forklift. It's also about 1/2 the price of exopy
and does not require mixing. It does require muratic-acid etching and two
coats. Its available in both Lowe's and Home Depot, as well as at S-W stores.
Harry