Epoxy on Floor
A.I.
paint to use.
I have narrowed it down to these...
Sherwin Williams - Ironclad
Ucoat it (www.ucoatit.com)
The SW salesman told me one gallen of part A and one gallen of Part B would
cover 450-700 sq feet? The lable on part says is covers 225-350 sq feet, he
ensures me it doubles that when I add part B? Does anyone know if this is
the case? Its about $110 for both gallens at SW.
The Ucoat it system is $250
Any adice would be great
hds
marxbig
Polyamide Epoxy. I have used it on many floors and it works great. After
etching the floor apply the first coat with 25% reduction (thinner) and then
apply the second coat full strength. You should get approximately 300 sq.ft.
per gallon on the first coat and 225 on the second. One gallon of part A and
one gallon of part B makes two gallons when mixed. If you know a paint
contractor who will buy the paint for you, it can be had for $20.00 to
$30.00 per gallon depending on the purchasing power of the contractor. I pay
around $17.00 per gallon for mine.Oh, and if you are going to add a non-skid
additive to the paint, cut the spread rates by 30-40%. Mix only as much as
you need for the immediate work and get a standard pre-mixed color so you
can return any you have left.
Get detailed instructions on how to properly clean, strip, etch, and apply
your floor coating from the manufacturer of the coating you intend to use.
Surface prep is the most critical step in painting a floor.
Also insure that the floor has a proper vapor barier under the slab. If the
floor doesn't have a vapor barrier...it will peel. To help determine if
there is vapor transmission through the slab, tape a 3'x3' piece of clear 6
mil poly to the floor using duct tape. If it is a large floor, do it in
several places. Make sure you get an airtight seal. Wait 24 hrs. and check
the poly for condensation. If there is condensation on the back of the
poly...paint won't stay on the floor. In this case consider a non-film
forming floor covering such as concrete stain.
Jimmy Glover
http://www.gloverpainting.com
"A.I." <news@***REMOVETHIS***iskowitz.net> wrote in message
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Roger Behnke
has a satin sheen. Most epoxy paints have a high gloss which makes them very
slippery when a little fine sawdust settles on it. I worked in our
families paint store for 14 years and more than one had customers ignore my
warning only to regret it later, because it is very difficult to recoat
epoxy with another type of coating that is available with a satin sheen
Roger
"A.I." <news@***REMOVETHIS***iskowitz.net> wrote in message
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bridger
followed it with a no slip no skid industrial topcoat. great so far...
Unisaw A100
>You may want to reconsider using an epoxy paint unless you can find one that
>has a satin sheen.
Roger what Roger said. On an episode of Hometime they used
a small machine (about the size of a lawn mower) that peaned
the floor and left it with an *almost broom* finish. They
then top coated it with the epoxy. It came out very nice.
As an alternative, I used a Behr product for painting porch
floors in my basement shop. It is a latex product and while
not as durable as epoxy it's relatively easy to put down
(doesn't require a whole house evacuation) and can be
re-coated as often/whenever you like. I've been quite happy
with it and after two full years it's holding up very well.
UA100
Jim
If you need an epoxy floor, follow Jimmy's advice here! From
my experience, he knows what he's talking about and is giving
you good advice. To do it right, you WILL need to apply it twice.
If I remember correctly, the thinned first coat is more for
adhesion into the concrete. Make sure you have plenty of
ventilation. More for YOU rather than the epoxy.
If this is a separate building you just put up, it may be way too
soon for an epoxy coating due to moisture in the concrete. If any
liquids/oils etc. can be spilled on it, definitely consider the
non-skid additive. If your floor doesn't need chemical resistance or
ability to withstand vehicle travel, I personally would consider
a concrete stain.
-Jim
Fly-by-Night CC
"Roger Behnke" <beh...@mailcircuit.com> wrote:
> You may want to reconsider using an epoxy paint unless you can find one that
> has a satin sheen. Most epoxy paints have a high gloss which makes them very
> slippery when a little fine sawdust settles on it. I worked in our
> families paint store for 14 years and more than one had customers ignore my
> warning only to regret it later, because it is very difficult to recoat
> epoxy with another type of coating that is available with a satin sheen
I've used polyurethane paint on my porch floor and steps with very good
results. It also is glossy and a dusting of sand while it was wet
increased traction drastically. At $20-$30/gallon it has been a very
durable product.
What advantages does the epoxy offer over the polyU?
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
marxbig
"Jim" <luko...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3D70F5B7...@carolina.rr.com...
> hds,
>
> If you need an epoxy floor, follow Jimmy's advice here! From
> my experience, he knows what he's talking about and is giving
> you good advice.
Thank you for the vote of confidence.
>To do it right, you WILL need to apply it twice.
> If I remember correctly, the thinned first coat is more for
> adhesion into the concrete.
Absolutely correct.
>Make sure you have plenty of
> ventilation. More for YOU rather than the epoxy.
Unless you enjoy the buzz. ;)
Epoxy is a chemically cured product and thus requires very little
ventilation for it to cure.
> If this is a separate building you just put up, it may be way too
> soon for an epoxy coating due to moisture in the concrete.
As a general rule, concrete should cure 28 days prior to coating.
>If any
> liquids/oils etc. can be spilled on it, definitely consider the
> non-skid additive. If your floor doesn't need chemical resistance or
> ability to withstand vehicle travel, I personally would consider
> a concrete stain.
All good advice.
Jimmy Glover
http://www.gloverpainting.com
A.I.
thanks for the info...I have some clarifications from my original post...and
a few follow-up questions.
First, its was Tile-clad not iron-clad that the SW rep talked to me about.
My mistake on the post.
I do have a vapor barrier under the slab, and have tried the 3'x3' poly
trick and not a bit of condensation shows up. The slab has been poured for
going on 90 days now.
The total they gave me at SW was $116 less 20% for roughly $92 for a part A
and part B. it sounds like I would need twice that much to get two coats on
400 square feet though, is this correct?
Based on your post it definitely sounds like the Sw guy was incorrect
stating mixing part A and part B would dohble the manufacturers spread rate
of 225-350 sq feet.
This is a woodshop so I am looking for a finish that gives me easy
sweep-ability of sawdust without being an ice slick.
The concrete also is not exactly smooth, I would call it anywhere from 120
grit to 60 grit in some places...the guy who poured it did a lowsy job
finishing it.
will any of these products create a levelling effect for the floor?
hda
"marxbig" <mar...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:3d702087$1...@goliath.newsgroups.com...
marxbig
> Jimmy,
>
> thanks for the info...I have some clarifications from my original
post...and
> a few follow-up questions.
>
> First, its was Tile-clad not iron-clad that the SW rep talked to me about.
> My mistake on the post.
I wasn't going to correct you on this one, but Benny Moore makes the product
called Iron-Clad and I thought maybe you just had the manufacturer mixed up.
IMHO, Tile Clad is the best bang for the buck.
> I do have a vapor barrier under the slab, and have tried the 3'x3' poly
> trick and not a bit of condensation shows up. The slab has been poured
for
> going on 90 days now.
Should be ready to paint. Again though, ensure that all curing agents or
other sealers have been removed from the floor. This usually requires paint
strippers. Acid etch the concrete till the texture of the surface resembles
100 grit sandpaper. Clean thoroughly and let dry. The SW rep should be able
to give you printed instructions on the proper surface prep and application
techniques.
> The total they gave me at SW was $116 less 20% for roughly $92 for a part
A
> and part B.
That is a high price. It's full retail. What part of the country do you live
in? I may be able to help with the price. Also remember you will need at
least one gallon of the proper thinner. They love to stick you with that
right as your getting ready to check out. It can cost 7-$12.00 a gallon
depending on how bad they are trying to stick you. If you will tell me where
you live I may be able to recommend a paint contractor who will buy the
paint for you. I know guys all over the US due to my involvement with the
PDCA (Painting and Decorating Contractors of America). Email me if you don't
want to post your address here. But again I suggest trying to find a paint
contractor to get the paint for you.
>it sounds like I would need twice that much to get two coats on
> 400 square feet though, is this correct?
It's going to be close. Two gallons might make it, but a lot depends on the
roughness of the concrete. Buy the two gallons and mix half of each, then
thin the mixed portion 25% and put the first coat on. If I remember my data
sheets correctly you can recoat Tile Clad within 4 hours under ideal
conditions of 75F and 50% humidity. If you will cool the paint in your
refridgerator before you mix it, you can extend the pot life by 200%.
Keeping the paint cold improves it's workability, too. After the recommended
drying time (and if the pot life is still good on the first batch) then mix
the second batch and add any remaining paint from the first batch together.
You may have just enough for both coats on 400 sq.ft. But don't be surprised
if you come up a little short. Again surface porosity and roughness have a
great impact on spreadrate.
> Based on your post it definitely sounds like the Sw guy was incorrect
> stating mixing part A and part B would dohble the manufacturers spread
rate
> of 225-350 sq feet.
No, he wasn't incorrect. What he meant was that when you mix the A&B you get
two full gallons that each get the 225-350 per gallon. However in my opinion
he is being optimistic about the spreadrate. My experience is that you get
somewhat less than the manufacturer's recommendation when applying in the
field due to surface roughness and application waste. His rates are
theorectical based on perfect conditions and no application loss. ie:
spillage, what's left in the bucket, etc.
> This is a woodshop so I am looking for a finish that gives me easy
> sweep-ability of sawdust without being an ice slick.
If your shop is not subject to splash and spillage of solvents, brake
fluids, standing water, or other chemical attacks, you may want to consider,
as another poster suggested, using Porch and Deck Enamel. It is an alkyd
product which is tough and durable to foot traffic plus it is much cheaper
and easier to apply (and can be recoated later without an act of congress).
You can broadcast sand or walnut shells or other abrasives into the final
coat and it will give you better traction but it will be harder to sweep.
> The concrete also is not exactly smooth, I would call it anywhere from 120
> grit to 60 grit in some places...the guy who poured it did a lowsy job
> finishing it.
>
> will any of these products create a levelling effect for the floor?
To a certain degree. But paint, when it dries tends to follow the shape of
the substrate. So deep pitting or ridges will show through the final
product. Sometimes I get ask if my paint will hide surface defects, I tell
my customers that however the surfaces looks before I paint it is exactly
how it will look after I paint it except it will be a different color. So
don't count on any significant leveling of the surfaces.
Jimmy Glover
http://www.gloverpainting.com
Larry Bud
I woudl like to recommend the Rustoleum 2 pt epoxy. I layed it on my
garage floor and it's holding up great. I believe it's less expensive
than the Ucoatit system (about $52 for a gallon). The label says it
covers 250 sq ft, but I got about 200 out of it. The oil drippings
just wipe up.