[W] FAQ -- Technical Frequently Asked Questions

[Jan Vandenbrande]

==========================================
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- Technical --
==========================================
rec.autos.vw

Date:
1 January 1994
Version:
1 Feb 93 = Removing O2 Snsr; Offrd lights #; tools
1 Mar 93 = Brake rotor edits; VW part numbers; sagging doors; Compression
checks; adjusting valves.
1 Apr 93 = Stuff on interchangeability on parts; Rim offsets
1 May 93 = Eliminating rattles & squeaks, updated timing belt procedure,
water pump failure diagnosis, added keyword <NOISE> for easy
diagnosis, clutch sizes.
1 Jun 93 = CAM Baffles, Index.
1 Jul 93 = Edits.
1 Aug 93 = Chemical Info added.
1 Sep 93 = Edits, Tool info edits, dielectric grease, MTL caution
1 Oct 93 = Edits.
1 Nov 93 = Coolant/phosphates updated, rim ranges.
1 Dec 93 = Corrections on rim ranges, hesitation updates,
1 Jan 94 = Tom Coradeschi reformats.

Moderator:
Jan Vandenbrande
j...@ug.eds.com
j...@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.

Please feel free to submit any additional info.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Index:
======
General issues (tools, VW part no system)
Chemicals (Useful chemicals to have around)
Engine (Rough idle/stalling, oil filter, more power,
water pump, plugs, O2 sensor)
Electrical (Bosch # conventions, charging problems, lights, etc)
Transmission (CV Joints, shifting, gear oils)
Brakes (Types, fluids, rotors)
Tires/Rims/Suspension (shocks, tire widths & rim upgrades, performance)
Body/Interior (Eliminating rattles, waxing)
Miscellanea (Corrado spoilers squeaks)

GENERAL
=======

Editor's Foreword:
This FAQ is geared predominantly at the technical aspects of watercooled
VWs based on the Golf Chassis (A1-A3: Golf I/Rabbit, Golf II & III,
Sciroccos, Corrados, Jettas, Vento, Convertibles) using the original Audi
"1600 type" engine block (now available up 2 liters) and the new VR6
2.8/2.9l engine aimed at the US/Canadian market.
Not covered are the engines/fuel systems available outside North America
such as the 1300 cc engines, carburetors/mono-throttle FI systems.
These cars have many similarities with Dashers/Passats/Fox's. These are
mostly mechanical, but not for the styling, suspension & exhausts.

Q: I have a problem with my car? What do I do? How should I go about
fixing it?
A: Diagnose the problem as well as you can: When does it happen? Is it speed
dependent? Is there a noise associated with it? Where is it coming from? Is
the problem temperature dependent? Happens at start up/after a while? Are
there any physical signs such as fluids/grease/wear marks? Does everything
look in good order/everything still attached?

While you are going over your car, check whether all the basic things are
in order.
VW engines run hot and the 4 cyl. vibrate a lot. As a result things rattle
loose and dry out quickly. This in turn causes a host of other problems.
Electrical connections & wires: Connectors tend to corrode, wires break
internally. Older VWs have a lot of problems which will make you think the
car is totally gone while all it may be is a loose wire, or a bad ground.
Also check out less obvious things: alternator brushes, fuse box, Hall
connections *inside* the distributor?
Vacuum hoses: They crack, they leak. Replace where needed.
Beware of all rubber components. They wear out with all the heat.

If your engine does not run, there are really two main sources: Mechanical
and periphery. Generally, VW engines hold up mechanically rather well, and
even with mechanical problems you can often get the engine to run.
Usually the problem is located with the periphery. You really only need two
basic things to make an engine run: Fuel and a spark at +/- the right
moment. Suspect a problem with either one first and trace it from there.
If for example the problems occurs each time it rains, suspect something
wrong with an electrical connection or water leaking onto the fuze box.

Yours truly once had problems with a carb and was able to start and run the
engine while spraying carb cleaner directly into the intake manifold (with
the carb REMOVED).

Cleaning the car and engine is often helpful in locating the problem,
especially leaks. It also make working on the car so much easier, for you
and the mechanic.

If you haven't found it yet, read through your manuals and try to identify
the offending piece?

Ask around. r.a.vw is an excellent source for help, but please be as
detailed as you can. If you are having trouble diagnosing the problem, just
imagine how hard it is for us not even having seen the car.
So *please* don't post: "My car makes a funny noise. What could it be?"
Start with make, model, year, and an accurate diagnosis.

After you narrow it down to a couple of potential sources, start with the
easiest and cheapest fix.
My experience is that a majority of seemingly serious problems can be
traced to very simple problems.
Mechanics do NOT have the time to check individual components.
Many work on commission (like department stores) and the more cars they
work on (not fix) the more they earn. Therefore, they usually take the
quickest route for them (replace stuff), and of course you end up paying
for that shiny new part through the nose even though it does not fix the
problem.
Besides, would you pay a mechanic $200 to fix a 50 cent connector because
it took him/her the whole day to find it?

Q: I want to work on my VW. What tools should I get?
A: I'd recommend Muir's (Complete Idiot) Stage I and Stage II tool list. Here
is roughly the "phylosophy" to follow:

Most people start with a couple of tools and then buy more as time
progresses and they learn how to work on their car.
It makes sense, except that it is usually cheaper to buy the most complete
"set" rather than buying a small set and then adding on (e.g., socket "set"
= 50 US cents a socket in the largest set, individual = 2-7 US$/piece).
My recommendation therefore is to buy the largest possible set of whatever
you can afford. Trust me, you will always be going back for more. In
addition, good tools will last you your lifetime!

Next, what brand name should you get. First look for tools with a life time
warrantee (though that may not be an indication of quality). In North
America, SnapOn, MAC, Stanley, Mechanix, Blackhawk, KD, and Sears Craftsman
tools (though their quality and warrantee policy is rumored to be
declining).
Avoid cheap tools, they are NOT worth the money, they can do more harm than
good (stripping), and may actually hurt you.
My order of preference is (and I'll be flamed for this, but this IS based
on 15 years of experience): Made in the USA or NW-Europe, & Japan. I
usually stay away from Taiwanese tools except for one shot "light" duty
items. They are getting better, but so far quality has varied too much to
be reliable.

A basic set should consist of:
Socket set:
Most versatile is a 3/8" ratchet drive set. It must contain 10, 13, 17,
19mm, and sparkplug socket, a couple extension bars and a 3/8-1/4"
adaptor.
12 pt sockets are the most common, but you may want to consider a 6 pt
set instead. They are MUCH less likely to strip and break if you need to
exert a good amount of torque.
Deep sockets are also useful in case you need to clear a bolt.
A torque wrench is also very useful. Unfortunately there is no one size
for all torques on the car. There are a variety of models: Cheapest are
those with a read out gauge. They work well but usually you end up in a
position that you cannot read the gauge.
I prefer the "click type" torque wrenches where you dial in the desired
torque and it will give you a loud click once you attain that.
Screw drivers:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, spade & Phillips
Allen Keys:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, though you may want to get Allen key Sockets
to use with your 3/8" drive (once you figure out the sizes you need).
Wrenches:
Get the largest set you can afford. Open and closed.
Same sizes as above. Get at least one large adjustable one.
Pliers:
Again, get the largest set you can afford, regular & miniature,
straight, needle nosed. Vise Grips are useful too.
Hammers:
Get a plastic & rubber one. The "normal" hammers are usually not used on
cars except in utter frustration.
Jack & Stands:
I'd recommend a floor jack over a bottle or scissor jack. A floor jack
will make raising your car *so* much easier. Stands are also a must. You
don't want you car crashing down on you. Use with wood and some foam
rubber to protect you car's undercoating.
Lights:
At the minimum get a knock-about light with a shatter proof heavy duty
lamp in it (don't even *think* of using a regular light bulb, dangerous,
and they only last 10 minutes under those conditions). A well lit garage
(i.e., 8" neon lamps is ideal).
Oil Filter wrench:
Different types exist and it depends on what works best for your car. My
favorite is the one that looks like an extension bar with a loop of seat
belt material.

Air Pump:
Pump up tires...
Tire gauges:
Dial types are usually the most accurate.
Odds an ends:
Tie wraps, electrical wires & connectors, elec. tape, vacuum hoses, hose
clamps.

"Oh-Oh" Type of Tools:
======================

Occasionally, things WILL go wrong, usually 5 minutes before all shops
close on a day before a long weekend, when your other car is gone or your
bike has a flat, all your neighbors with tools or out of town, and right
before you embark on a long trip, and a very unsympathetic spouse watching
on.

For many of these, you can wait for a sale, but do get them when you have a
chance.

Screw Extractor Set/Easy Out:
Get a set, just in case, to remove stripped screws/bolts/brake bleed
nipples.

Magnetic Pickup:
Basically a magnet on an antenna. Lose a nut down your intake manifold
throat or down a cylinder?...this should help. Don't even *think* on
starting the car.

Claw pick up:
Like the above except it has little claws on the end of a flexible tube
to pick things up. Similar use as above.

>>>> STILL NEEDS WORK <<<<<

Q: My A1 based VW sounds very buzzy and noisy, vibrations in the <NOISE>
engine compartment. What's wrong?
A: Check the front right engine mount. They wear out in ~50k miles.

From [KIRBY ERLANDSEN]: My tricks are to cut the old one out with a hacksaw
(this is easy because you can remove the hacksaw blade and cut from the
inside out ) and put the new mount in the freezer while you heat the
bracket in the oven. Then with gloves on, you can hammer the two together
fairly easily. [Note, oil the components FIRST] If that does not work,
bring it to a machine shop and have them press it in for you.

See also a1.mounts in the archives.

Q: My odometer/trip odometer stopped working. How do I fix it?
A: This is an old known problem. The odometer gear which drives the 1/10 mile
splits thus no longer engages the shaft to the 1/10 mile digit wheel. You
can glue it back with epoxy (after you spend some prime time behind your
dash removing the speedometer and opening it up).

Hints on removing: A2's are a lot easier than A1's. The hardest part is
unscrewing the speedo cable. Try taking the lower dash covers off and put
your hand up from the bottom. Also I just remove the steering wheel before
working on the cluster. It makes it a whole lot easier, but be sure your
steering wheel and shaft are marked so you can get them back on the same.
Otherwise your wheel will be crooked when you drive straight.
Reinstalling is harder because you have to be sure the square drive on the
speedo matches up with the cluster. Otherwise the cable will not seat fully
or the speedo nut is hard to start.
Also, be careful to align the wiring connector before trying to insert -
it's polarized.

Other hint: I also twisted some fine wire around the flanges of the gear
(near the shaft) and put glue over the wire and flanges. Make sure to get
the gear back in the proper position under the worm gear.

Other hint: I usually go down to the junk yard and look for damaged
dashboards and speedo's. Usually one has the gear I need -- I just pry it
off -- this is a no cost item if you have a friendly junk yard owner.

Other hint: Another approach I used on my '79 Rabbit was to go to a hobby
shop and find a small pinion gear for those electric race cars. It had the
right number of teeth, and same ID, but was slightly wider and had an Allen
set screw.
I filed off the outer edges to clear the other worm gears and mounted it on
the shaft with the set screw. Looked weird, but worked OK. The gear will
cost about $3 and you need the fine Allen key wrench.

You can also send it to have it fixed at:
VDO (the OEM) in VA, (703) 665-0100

Q: What is VWs part numbering scheme?
A: Each part number is composed of nine numbers in three groups, followed
optionally with a letter suffix (taken from WolfSport's catalog):

vvv ggg ppp [s]

vvv: Vehicle type ggg: PRIMARY INDEX
171 = R/G I 100-199 = Engine/Cooling/Clutch
161 = Jetta I 200-299 = Fuel Tank
165 = Jetta II 300-399 = Transmission/Transaxle
261 = 16V GTI 400-499 = Front Axle/Suspension
531 = Scirocco I 500-599 = Rear Axle
535 = Scirocco II 600-699 = Brake
155 = Convertible 700-799 = Cables
800-899 = Body/Interior
900-999 = Electrical

ppp: Individual Part Number s: Suffix, optional

The primary index and the part number are the most important numbers
because many of the cars share the same parts. So do not be surprised to
see a 171-Rabbit type part in a Jetta.
Note: This is scheme has been in use since the Beetle days (111 - Standard
Beetle - LHD) but I leave that for the [A] FAQ. AUDI uses the same scheme
as well (?).

CHEMICALS
=========

NOTE:
This section lists some of the more useful chemicals to use on cars.
Be aware that many of these chemicals are harmful if used improperly and
could result in stripped paint, rubber becoming brittle, up to poisoning,
cancer and death.
Dispose of them environmentally!
See also the section of Waxing for body care chemicals.

Q: What are some of the useful chemicals to have around?
A: Cleaners:
---------
Brake Cleaner:
(Spray) Make sure it's not too harmful for rubber and keep it away
from paint.
Carb/FI Cleaner:
(Spray).Useful for cleaning FI/Carb related components. Get the type
that does NOT harm catalytic conv.
General:
Simple Green (great and safe), engine cleaner
"Chem Clean":
A can or bucket of chemicals that degreases bearings CVJs, or carbs REAL
fast. That stuff is murder on skin and nails.
Hand Cleaner:
With pumice. Just buy a big vat. They are great, much better than
dishwash liquid or regular soap.

Lubricants:
-----------
Penetrant oil:
E.g., "Liquid Wrench". Eventually loosens stuck parts.
WD40 :
General purpose light "lubricant"/penetrant
Anti-Seize:
See below.
Case of engine Oil
Lithium Grease:
Spray can for hard to reach places
Molybdenum Grease:
For bearings (NOT CVJs!)
Talcum Powder:
For rubber components
Silicone Spray:
Good for lubricating non-metal components. Rumored to dry out rubber
though.

Paint/Body:
-----------
Body Paint:
For touch ups/scratches.
Primer:
I prefer cold galvanizing primer
Naval Jelly:
Rust remover (Phosphoric acid, i.e., coka cola).

Others:
-------
Brake quiet:
Sticky stuff to put on the pad backing to eliminate squeals.
Glues:
Depending on what you need to glue, use Epoxy, rubber cement,
RTV/Silicone Rubber, etc.
ThreadLocker:
See below.
Distilled water:
Battery & for coolant mixing

There is more, but buy some only as you need them because they may dry out.

Q: What should I do with Loctite Threadlocker (tm) and Anti Seize (tm)?
A: Use Anti-seize on anything that you will disassemble again and is subject
to corrosion (water pump bolts, wheel bolts, exhaust bolts), but be
careful on sparkplugs and oxygen sensors (it contains lead which kills
the cat, make sure it's on the threads only).
Use Loctite Threadlocker (medium strength is ok) on anything you don't want
to rattle loose and you cannot use serrated o-rings: Brake bolts, etc.

I use anti-seize the most, and if you torque things right, I never had a
problem of anything rattling loose.
Note that Loctite also seals out air, and therefore prevents corrosion
which means that disassembly will also be facilitated, compared to
something rusted shut. A small tube of each goes A LONG way.

ENGINE
======

Q: I have a very rough idle/stalling problem when the car is cold (or warm)
What can I do to fix it?
A: This is an old problem that may have numerous causes. Mostly A2
Golfs/GTIs/Jettas/GLIs are affected. First make sure everything "obvious"
is ok: vacuum hoses, electrical connections, tuned up right, spark plugs,
distributor, good tank of gas, etc. These are by far the most likely causes
of this annoying problem.

[jan, 19930902, overheard in the VW shop]
VW is going to embark in some form of campaign, not sure whether it is an
actual NHTSA mandated one, to replace all the ECU's with one using gold
plated connectors, replace and reroute several vacuum hoses, and replace
the throttle body (the shaft has a radial play causing a vacuum leak in
some cases). I believe that recent Passats, A2 Jettas and GTIs are included
in this.

Depending on the model, do the following:
- Clean idle stabilizer VALVE with brake or carb cleaner (VW&P) (Note:
Earlier cars had a Digital Idle Stabilizer circuitry (DIS) which is
something different, and *rarely* fails).
- Check (idle) throttle switch
- Clean sensor plate & throttle body orifices
- Check *all* vacuum hoses (inc. those going to the brake booster & the
brake booster itself)
- Check *all* electrical connections (see also later on bad grounds)
Be aware of the old "leak in the windshield molding or firewall
gommets that drips and shorts out the fuse box" problem.
Many A1's suffer that problem.
- Check *all* air pipe connections (esp. between the throttle body & air
cleaner housing). Look around hose clamps, crimped ends, where there may
be relative motion and cause a tear.
- Check distributor (carbon build up will cause misfires/bad idle)
- Check warm-up regulator/thermo switch
- Check proper working of the Oxygen Sensor (see Bentley) Hint: Disconnect
the O2 sensor, if the car runs better suspect that it may be bad.
- Clean contacts of the ECU, and all engine management related components
with an aerosol contact cleaner (note: Newer VWs use gold plated
contacts, so this definite a problem area in older cars!)
- Check fuel pump relay, it may have an intermittent failure. HARD
to diagnose, until it cuts out entirely. If it does die,
jump the two large terminals on the relay block to operate the pump
so you won't be stranded. [frank.si...@mail.trincoll.edu]
- Check the working of the injectors (incl 5th one).
- Check the injector O-rings (older cars)
- Change to a different brand/type of gas (4-5 tanks) VW had a bulletin out
on this. They recommend Shell, Chevron & AMOCO(?)
- Use AutoBahn injector cleaner or: Chevron's Techroline == VW Autobahn,
though VWs stuff is cheaper. Note that ProGuard is a weaker version of
Techron. VW also recommends the more concentrated 44K (BG Products), to
be used every 4000 miles (= VW Part #208 (?)). Redline SI1 is also
good, better in some people's opinions.
- Use fuel dryer (using ISOPROPANOL NOT Methanol)
- Change the fuel filter
- Clean the tank screen at the bottom of the tank or on the transfer fuel
pump (& also clean the tank if you find junk)
From WEN...@FIRNVX.FIRN.EDU (Mark): When I pulled the hose off the intake
side of the fuel pump it only dribbled slowly from the tank! No Gusher!
That was a real clue that the tank was faulty, and not the pump. :)
- Clean the screen *inside* the fuel pump.
- Check whether the filtering banjo bolt (has a screen) near the fuel
distributor has been removed at the first service (mostly A2 cars with FI
in the US, don't know about Europe). It's replaced with a bolt w/o a
screen (Part nos: Screw = N 0210715 Washers = N 0138128, for *most* A2
cars). If it is left, it may clog or restrict flow.
- Check the health of the fuel pump(s) (measure the amount of current it is
drawing). Note, many A2s have two pumps!
- Improperly grounded potentiometer (90 Golf: sco...@pangea.Stanford.EDU)
- Check the CONTROL PRESSURE REGULATOR. Apparently the heating element
wears out, and it won't give correct pressure until it warms up
- Faulty oil pump relief valve. Pumps up the hydraulic lifters too much
limiting compression. Apparently mentioned in EuroCar.
- If nothing helped, you may need a new ECU! (The 91?,92? Jettas went
through 5 different ECUs, according to my mechanic).
- >>>> MORE????

Q: What oil filter should I use on my VW?
A: VW's, MANN's or Bosch (OEM). FRAM (PH2870) or other brands do NOT have the
same valving (backflow, bypass), valving rates, rigidity of construction,
and quality. The other brands will work ok, but you may be running a risk.
Several known cases of Corrado G60s blowing FRAM filters open. Some known
cases of Porsches ruining engines with FRAM filters due to inadequate
gaskets.
MANN filters are also available from Beck Arnley World Parts, and are
packaged under that brand, so they are much cheaper than the factory
filters.

The function of the bypass valve is to bypass the oil filter if the filter
is clogged or the oil is too viscous during a cold start. Dirty oil is
better than NO oil.

The anti-backflow valve prevents the oil from draining out of the engine
block into the oil pan. This means that oil will be available almost
instantaneously at a start up, which is also when the majority of wear
occurs (SLICK 50 is not lying about that). The VR6 engines have this valve
build into the engine!

[Jan: Compared to the SLC oil filters (~15-20US$), the regular filters now
seem cheap (~4-6US$)]

NOTE: Newer VWs DO NOT use the same filters as before. The G60 filter is
recognizable by the "nut" welded on the bottom, the SLC does NOT use a
filter but a replaceable insert (two kinds available, a short and a long
one, measure before you buy).

Q: I want to improve the performance of my car? Where should I start?
A: Yourself. The average person only utilizes a small portion of their car's
capabilities, and often do not know how the car handles under emergency
conditions. Taking a performance "Driving School" from one of the local
clubs (e.g. SCCA, ~1/2 day, inexpensive, fun) or from a performance driving
school (e.g. Bob Bondurant, expensive, fun) is probably the biggest single
improvement you can make. In every day driving it may make the difference
between life and death!

Q: How can I get more power out my VW?
A: Buy an SLC :->. It's an FAQ that's worthy of a book, and that's probably
where you should start. Here are a couple of old known one liners which are
easy & relatively inexpensive (mostly for North America, Europeans usually
have less luxurious but faster cars). Note also that the newer VWs have
much less room for easy improvements because many of the components are
already near optimal. One easy upgrade path for older VWs is to look at
newer models, see what VW did, and see if you can swap parts.

Also be aware when buying "performance" components on their true benefit.
Usually the top horse power gain is quoted while not mentioning what
happens with the rest of the power band (often at the expense of the low
end).
This means that you car has more push at the very top but may actually feel
slower where you do most of your driving.
So first decide where you want to improve, then research whether the
component in question really achieves that.
Also select performance parts that fit in the stock position over those
that do not.
This is probably more true for suspension components than engine
components, but is a good general rule to follow.
Parts that deviate too much may require extensive modifications, sacrifice
reliability, make more noise, or may even render you car unsafe.

In general:
Reduce the exhaust backpressure (performance exhaust)
Advance the timing (recurved distributors...)
Improve breathability (K&N Filtercharger, head port, throttle body,
compressor)
Add a hotter cam
Enlarge the engine (change head, pistons, crank)
Replace the engine with a more powerful one :-)

83-84? GTI:
Change throttle body.

84 Scirocco (US):
For the JH 1.8 big-valve engine, use a dual-outlet exhaust manifold from
any early car up to '81, get the short TT's downpipe (retain cat) for 10
HP, with a 17% gain at 4200 rpm and more torque
Optionally: replace exhaust system from the cat back (US$150) & factory
VW g-grind camshaft (Autotech, $99)

Fox:
Remove exhaust restrictor (see also EuroCar:
April 89, Aug. 89, Dec. 89, Apr. 90, Aug. 90)

90-92 Passat (4 Cyl):
Remove air-intake restrictor, APS Chip, cam. APS chip for automatics
that is supposed to do wonders for low end and shift points. Applicable
to all cars with 9A engine (inc. 16V GLI).

85 GTI:
Change ignition map by cutting wire #11?? on the ignition control unit
and grounding #3 (which was connected to #11). Yields 2 HP additional,
torque peak occurring at a lower rpm. See also 85-87 GTI for additional
power.

85-87 GTI:
KE-Jetronics: Advance ignition idle timing to 12 degrees BTDC or until
knock. (factory specifies 6 degrees +/- 2). Gains 5-8 HP with >= 92
octane fuel, very noticeable at the low end. Note, it may reduce the
life of your catalytic converter.

90-92 16V GTI/GLI:
Motronic Power chips from Autothority & APS.

Corrado G60:
Stage 1, 2 & 3 chips/packages from APS & Autothority.
Stage 1/P-Chip: Chip swap, improves low end by torque 18%, high end by
~5%. Gas consumption improves but you do need Super Unleaded.
Stage 2: Pulley change & chip => a lot more power. Wear?
Stage 3: Like Stage 2 but with a CAM
Remove cold air snorkel (too restrictive) => 1-2 HP gain at the top end
(Note: WAY too noisy).

Corrado SLC:
Power chips available from both APS & AutoThority. Gain of 7-10 HP, but
improves drivability.
Remove cold air snorkel (too restrictive).
Replace with updated throttle body w/o internal air ramp. The above
combined produced an additional 30 HP.
Some preliminary feedback on the chip swap alone have not been
impressive!

VR6 2.8/2.9:
Use VW Motorsport's Variable Inlet Manifold (VSR).

All cars:
Use a K&N Filtercharger air filter element (some will argue whether this
makes any difference). High end improves a bit. Corrados: 3 HP gain at
top. Replacing the airbox with a filter at the end of the air intake
also provides some additional gain (but you'll also hear more engine
noise...).

>>>Probably LOTS MORE...

Caveat: Most of the above are merely small fixes that do not require
replacement of a major engine component such as the cam or the exhaust
system, which is usually the next step towards major engine improvements.
Those enhancements require a lot more work and expertise to install.

Caveat II: Most of the above improvements are approved by the air resource
boards for street legal use, but some are not (Stage II, Corrado). Before
you install any equipment, make sure that you understand the full
implications.
Tampering with pollution control equipment is a serious crime, punishable
with a 20 000 US$ fine in many states of the USA.

Q: What's a K&N air filter?
A: It's a washable (i.e., reusable) air filter made out of an oiled cloth like
material over a wire mesh matrix. It is supposed to let through more air
while retaining the same filtering capabilities. More air => more power,
especially at higher rpms.

In practice however, the reviews have been mixed. Hot VWs (Dec 92) reported
a 3-5 HP gain on the high end in a Jetta. Others have reported no
difference or even a slight degrade in performance.
My *speculation* is that some cars require to see some vacuum to get the
right amount of fuel, kind-a like a choke (e.g., carbureted cars). The same
is true with some FI cars (measure vacuum) while other FI cars measure air
flow.
By the way, a 3-5 HP difference is within normal daily variance of an
engine because of external factors such as gas quality, viscosity of the
oil, ambient temp, etc. You can probably gain as much from pumping up your
tires harder to reduce rolling resistance (but increase wear).

Q: How do I service a K&N air filter?
A: You can buy the K&N chemicals (cleaner and reoiler) or you can use a
detergent called Formula 409 (used for cleaning kitchens in the US) to save
some money (the K&N cleaner is rumored to be the same as Formula 409).
You should always use their oil though.
Also do not rinse the filter in hot water. It'll shrink the cloth.

Q: I want to flush my cooling system. Where can I get phosphate free coolant
other than at the overpriced dealer prices?
A: Phosphates corrode aluminum (all VW heads) through an electrochemical
reaction with the cast iron block, which is why VW recommends to use
phosphate free coolants.

According to [scorn...@ws11.iac.honeywell.com] Aluminum oxide in solution
forms a black paste that makes a real mess, this will be visible inside the
coolant bottle once the corrosion process has started (I've seen this in a
custom street rod). So if you see a used VW with this condition, run
away....

In the US market, all the popular brands until recently (Prestone, Zerex)
contain phosphate in a buffered solution which keeps the phosphates in the
coolant from ionizing (so they claim), at least for a while.
I have used Prestone without seemingly ill effects, but if you want to be
100% sure, not void warrantee, use VW's coolant. Furthermore, mix with
DISTILLED water, NOT tap water.

Unverified claims: Texaco's coolant is also Phos free. HALF the cost! Newer
coolants by Prestone, Arctic, Quaker State are as well, but they also say
so on the labels (apparently for environmental reasons!). Sierra's new
anti-freeze is based on Propylene Glycol (environmentally safe). See also
below for more details.

Verified Claim: BASF's Zerex Extreme is phosphate free, and offers a 4
year, 50 000 miles warrantee in the US (against defects caused by their
coolant).

Another thing to note is that VWs original coolant DOES NOT have to be
renewed every two years like Prestone (this according to VW). The reason is
that coolants like Prestone have sacrificing chemicals that prevent
corrosion for a certain period. VWs coolant does not have any sacrificing
chemicals and therefore does not wear out.

This is not an endorsement of either products. I have no idea as to their
effectiveness.

See also the archive file "Anti_Freeze" for additional details.

Q: How can I improve heat transfer/what are alternative coolant fluids?
A: Redline sells a "wetting" agent as an additive that improves heat transfer.
It comes in two forms solid, which contains phosphates, and liquid w/o
phosphates (OK). People who have used it can't tell any difference under
normal driving conditions.

Under normal street use you will not see any change because the thermostat
is regulating the temp.
It's only when you exceed the capacity of your system and the thermostat is
all the way open that the wetting agent will have an effect. The wetting
agent is supposed to improve heat transfer by reducing surface tension.
This is important near the head where the coolant my locally boil.
The little gas bubbles however impede heat transfer, which in turn may lead
to knocking and reduced engine performance.
Redline claims it can reduce engine temp by as much as 30F (depending on
the anti-freeze/water ratio, for a 50% mix it's closer to 10F I think).
The performance shop I bought it from said that its good insurance when
your car is put under heavy duty (stuck in traffic on a hot day, making a
desert run, autocross).

An other alternative described in European Car (Oct 91) is to use !pure!
propylene glycol that has a higher boiling point than ethylene glycol
though worse heat transfer properties. [boro...@hpspkla.spk.HP.com]
The higher power VW engines have a problem with pinging under heavy load.
This is due to the coolant boiling inside the head. Coolant vapor is a very
poor heat conductor. This loss of cooling causes hot spots to form on the
combustion chamber side of the head, causing pinging. The propylene glycol
does not boil, and this cools the hot spots better. Thus, pinging is
avoided, and more power is available if the timing is set to take advantage
of the reduced chance for pinging. The cooling system is NOT pressurized,
but vented to boil residual moisture away (which lowers the boiling pt). A
kit to make the switch is available from: MECA Cooling Company
[See the first general FAQ for address]

Q: What's the easiest way of removing a water pump (A1 & A2 VWs)?
A: The idea is to remove the *entire* pump assembly first, and separate the
pump halves outside of the car. To remove the entire pump assembly, you
have to remove all "fan" belts, pulleys, the drive belt covers, loosen the
alternator (easy), remove the PS pump (easy once you locate the bolts,
don't need to disconnect the hoses), and the AC (just move it out of the
way), and then removing the pump is trivial. It's just the rest of the
stuff that's a pain, depending on the model.

Another tip: If your pump leaks between the halves, it's safer to replace
the pump as one unit rather than the impeller half. Chances are that the
leaking pump is warped, and no matter how often you replace one half, it'll
*always* give you problems. Use anti-seize on the bolts during reassembly.

While you are at it, check or replace the thermostat. They do get lazy
after a while. Checking/replacing the hoses may not be such a bad idea
either (note: they last ~ 70k miles or ~10 yrs IMHO).

On A1 Diesels (maybe A2) however it's easier to remove the timing belt, and
then remove the impeller half of the pump. However [Borowski] the timing
belt need not be removed on cars without air conditioning. Once the
alternator bracket is removed, the water pump comes out easily.

Q: How often should I change my drive belt?
A: 8 Valve engines, around 60-75k miles, 16V's BEFORE you reach 50k miles. 8V
engines will NOT be damaged if the thing breaks, 16V will be.
The VR6 engines use an actual chain rather than a synthetic belt and do not
have to be changed.
Note that tensioning the belt correctly is tricky, if it's too tight you
may prematurely wear out a bunch of bearings.
If it's on too tight, you'll hear a characteristic whining/high pitched
sound. <NOISE>
From [Lee Hetherington]: THE MORAL OF THE STORY IS TO SET THE TENSION BY
TRIAL AND ERROR BEFORE YOU PUT THE COVER BACK ON.

Q: I hear an intermittent high pitched chirping noise that comes <NOISE> and
goes when I rev the engine?
A: This could be caused by a bunch of things.
First check whether all the belts are on tight enough, but also not too
tight (there is a difference between a belt slipping, e.g., when you go
through a puddle, and a bearing being over stressed).
Remove all belts, and if the noise persists, suspect the drive belt
tensioner. (You can actually feel it vibrate when it chirps, but don't get
your fingers stuck).
They are easy and cheap to replace, see elsewhere for a replacement
tensioning tool.
If that's not it, and the drive belt is not on too tight (see above) then
you may be in trouble.

Q: How do I know whether my water pump is going bad?
A: Obviously if it starts to leak either through the pump half seam or the bearing (the little hole on the bottom).
However, there are also other failure modes you have to be aware of:
If the car makes a grinding whish-whish-whish sound when cold <NOISE> which
diminishes as you drive, the pump bearing may be failing and the impeller
is machining the pump housing into slivers.
To check for this condition, remove all belts, and spin the waterpump
pulley. If it turns well damped and smooth, it's fine. If it feels gritty
and crunchy, it's machining itself. If on the other hand it spins loosely,
the impeller may have detached itself from the shaft.
Note that you should not mistake the grinding whish-whish-whish <NOISE>
sound from a regular whish-whish-whish noise. <NOISE>
In this case the belts may be simply getting hard or the pulleys are out of
line.
To check for this, take a can of Silicon spray and spray it on the belts
while the car is idling. If the sound disappears immediately, you found the
problem.
Either replace the belts, or use some hard soap on them (but don't lose
your fingers for this either).
If the pulleys do not line up, check whether any of the bushing are worn
(e.g., the rubber alternator bushing as found on older A1 VWs is notorious
for wearing out). Otherwise use spacers and O-rings to get them to line up.

Q: Why the hole at the bottom of the impeller housing?
A: To keep the bearings dry. Moisture is the death of bearings. Seals are
never quite perfect, thus the hole. From: boro...@spk.hp.com (Don T.
Borowski)

Q: Where are the timing marks on A1 & A2 VWs?
A: At the top of the clutch/bell housing you will find a plastic plug. Pulling
the plug allows you to use a magnetic factory sensor. If you want to use a
strobe, you will have to *unscrew* the whole plug assembly. Then you'll see
a reference mark, and an arrow somewhere on the flywheel:
Mark in hole: [ ]
^
flywheel: |

Normally the two have to line up under normal idle & a strobe connected to
cylinder #1. Some cars require certain vacuum hoses or the idle stabilizer
to be disconnected. Check manual.

Note: Some cars (e.g. 87 & 88 GTI 16V) also have marks on the front pulley,
with an arrow on the end of the block.

Note: Excessive advance raises combustion temperatures and pressures, while
excessive retard extends the burning cycle through the exhaust and raises
exhaust temps. (Mark Shaw)

Q: My radiator leaks, what should I do?
A: Replace it. In most VWs this is pretty easy to do (1 hr), and a new
radiator (which is = OEM) can be had for around 100-150US$. The hard part,
esp. in older cars and in Europe, is finding the right radiator. Even VW
does not keep track of what car left the factory with what radiator.
Furthermore, the serial numbers are not very useful because they may not be
available anymore.
What you need to do is first measure the core length of the radiator, then
determine whether it has an external recovery tank, and then determine
whether it is screw in mount (mostly pre-82) or the newer pin-points
(Wolfsport has some good explanation of this).
Now you need to decide whether you want the same radiator, or a larger one.
Most VWs come pre-drilled to accept certain larger radiators.
Larger radiators are used in cars with A/C, or if the car is destined for a
warmer climate (though that may not be where the car is sold).
You also may want to install the largest possible radiator if you
autocross, do long desert runs or tow something.
A larger radiator allows a larger cooling capacity, which means it can
dissipate heat quicker. This does NOT mean that it will run cooler on
*average* because that's controlled by the thermostat (a.k.a. "aquastat" in
some places).
Some 3rd party places (e.g., JC Whitney) sell generic radiators with a
conversion kit which are much harder to install, and not recommended.

Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use one of those Stop Leak
products at all cost because it'll block more than just your leak (like the
heater core). rgo...@UMASSD.EDU

Q: What causes engine knock/pinging/detonation? <NOISE>
A: Too much advance. Check Timing. Also check VALVE timing. Too low gas
octane/too high engine compression. Engine overheating. Carbon build up on
valves. An improperly torqued knock sensor can cause the sensor to not
function correctly resulting in knock and/or loss of power. Failing knock
sensor.

NOTE: Do not mistake engine knock or pinging for other problems. Knock
occurs under load (e.g., accelerating, going up a hill, fast driving).
Knock seldom occurs under no load conditions (e.g., idle or revving the
engine). If you hear a rattle there <NOISE> it may be something else:
valves, bearing, wristpin slap, etc.

Q: I have an A2 VW and I hear buzzing from the rear of the car? <NOISE>
A: These cars have two fuel pumps: The transfer pump which is mounted *inside*
the gas tank, and the regular pump which pumps the gas to the fuel
distributor.
Just before you start the car (key in "on" position) you should hear a
slight buzzing that MUST go away after 5 seconds. Whenever the buzzing
noise becomes increasingly more audible while driving, it may indicate that
one of the pumps is about to fail. Changing the fuel filter may help.
Bentley manual has a procedure to check the health of the pump, basically
by measuring the current being drawn.
Cleaning the fuel filter screen with the transfer pump also seems to help.

The transfer pump makes a 'wugga wugga wugga' noise when the key is turned
on, and then goes away.

Q: I seem to have lost power?
A: Check the following:
- Vacuum hoses
- Fuel Filter
- Ignition timing
- Valve timing (belt may have slipped)
- Spark plugs
- Valve clearances (older cars)
- On G60's: Some batteries have an overflow tube that dumps acid on the
intercooler tubes => holes => loss of power.
- Other defects...

Q: What are the correct spark plugs for my car?
A: Check the manual, however the manual/Bentley/dealer may sometimes be wrong.
Here is some info collected over time:

Regular Champions do not work well with VWs.

Bosch are the stock plugs, and work well in most VWs.

Most 8V engines up to 87 can use Bosch WR7D? where ? = S, P
9A Engines (16V from August 1989 - present): Bosch FR6DS, ZVP121086S
the manual lists F6DTC, which is equivalent (see differences in below).

G60's use Bosch W6DPO - VW# 251 201 511A (and cost 16US$ EACH!).

Q: What does the Bosch spark plug number mean?
A: For example: WR7DTC

W = Diameter (?) W= 14 mm (?)
R = Resistor (Radio interference suppression, not vital(?))
7 = Heat Range (lower numbers = colder plugs)
D = Length (?)
T = Tri-cathode. If missing, single cathode
C = Copper Anode.
Other values, Missing = Carbon, S = Silver, P = Platinum

Q: Do "Split Fire" (= name of a plug sold in the US, not a type of plug) plugs
live up to their advertised claims?
A: Responses from the net & tests by TT indicate: NO, they are actually worse
than the recommended Bosch plugs. Note that VW recommends the use of tri-
cathode Bosch plugs for some of their cars...so this split-fire idea is
rather "old". Apparently it's covered with Techtonics "Amazing Dyno
Stories: Parts to get and parts to forget".

Q: Should I use Platinum plugs? [Note, Bosch & NGK & Others make them].
A: Only if it is recommended by either the sparkplug or car manufacturer. The
results have so far been mixed. Some people feel a marked and sustained
improvement over regular copper or silver plugs others felt a decrease in
performance and cold starting.

Q: How do I adjust the gap on Platinum sparkplugs?
A: Depending on the type of Platinum sparkplugs, to make the gap smaller, you
gently tap the cathode on a solid piece.

Q: What net wisdom exists on exhaust systems?
A: Gilette:
Good balance for street and autocross & last LONG. Some will debate that
this is the best (stainless). OEM supplier to VW.
Leistritz:
Good balance for street and autocross. Galvanized.
Supertrapps:
GREAT for road racing and autocrossing but way too loud for everyday
life (rgo...@UMASSD.EDU)
OEM:
More recent VW mufflers have improved to the point that little can be
done to improve them in street legal performance or durability. Also
keep in mind that VW now offers lifetime warrantee on their replacement
mufflers. Avoid Midas, contrary to their commercials.

See also the archives on this!

Q: How do I remove the oxygen sensor? It seems frozen.
A: [From: rka...@pitt.edu]
First you need the right 22mm wrench. And now the story from Rajiv: Then he
explained to me the secret of how he got it off.

[Applicable to the 1 wire systems attached to the exhaust manifolds ONLY,
the heat would ruin the catalytic converter, for those mounted on the
converter]
The sensor area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then,
you spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the lubricant
to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just to the threads
is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep applying the wrench.
Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.

Q: What does an engine compression test tell me about the health of my engine?
A: There are different ways to check engine compressions, and they can reveal
specific internal defects.
General procedure:
1) Remove all spark plugs.
2) Ground center spark plug wire AWAY from the cylinders
3) Make sure you have a healthy battery & the car is at operating temp.
4) Attach compression gauge on cylinder 1
5) Put car in neutral & have friend push in clutch & accelerator
6) Have friend crank engine, note FIRST reading and reading after
pressure stabilizes (3-5 cranks).
7) Note down readings and repeat for all cylinders
8) A healthy engine should have all readings near mfr's spec, and should
be about +/- 10% of each other. If not...you are in trouble.
9) If one or more is low, but not adjacent cylinders (e.g. 1 & 3)
suspect either a burned valve or worn rings. If adjacent cylinders are
low, also suspect a bad head gasket or a warped head.
10) To determine whether it's rings or valve, do a leak down test => Add
a couple spoon fulls of regular engine oil to the engine through the
spark plug hole of the offending cylinder
11) Repeat measurement. If it remains low => Valve/Head, else if the
readings jumped up => Rings.
12) To distinguish between head vs valves => see a professional. They'll
lock the drive shaft, put air pressure on the cylinders and watch for
bubbles in the coolant fluid.
13) Also the first reading and the final readings should not be too far
apart.

Q: How often should I adjust my valves (gas engines)?
A: All/most? VWs made after 1985 have hydraulic valves, which adjust
themselves. Cars before that need periodic adjustments.
Check for the recommended intervals in your manual, do more frequently on
older cars & with periodic compression checks. Badly adjusted valves reduce
power, increase pollution and may lead to burned valves (valves cool thru
contact with the head).
It's a fairly easy job to do, you DO need two special tools: One to
compress the valves and one to remove the adjusting shims. They can be had
at most car specialty stores.
All VW engines based on the old 1500 thru 1800 block use calibrated metal
shims (tappets) the size of Alka Seltzer pills for adjusting the valves.
You first measure your clearance, then determine how much off it is, take
out the old shim, calculate what new size you need, and race of to your
parts supplier (or use a shim from another valve).

Q: What's a CAM "saver" cover, alias CAM splash guard, alias CAM cover baffle?
A: It's piece of plastic that fits between the actual CAM cover and the upper
CAM bearings (just wedged between the two). When the car is running, oil is
splashed around a lot in the CAM chamber (just try it...you'll have to
repaint your garage) and sometimes saturates the positive crankcase
ventilation valve.
The PCV is connected to the breather tube on top of the CAM cover and goes
to the airfilter box. When the PCV gets saturated it my drip oil into your
airfilter box. The CAM saver cover prevents oil from splashing directly on
to the inner CAM cover, and also allows oil to drip back directly on the
CAM providing extra lubrication instead of just sliding back along the
sides. Both VW and certain after market places sell these barriers for
about US$ 15.
Many of the newer VWs (87 GTIs) have such a barrier installed as stock, but
you can often retrofit your car with it as well.
Note that these things not always fit quite right... According to Graig:
You need to buy a new cam cover gasket set too as you'll be junking your
old one when you take the cam cover off. If you have an aftermarket cam
cover, trade it in for a factory one, as the actual oil breather itself has
a better baffle (rather than just a screen or mesh like in some aftermarket
ones). This is a safe preventive too, even if you don't autocross.
Everyone who even thinks of driving their VW hard should put one of these
baffles in there

Q: What is the relationship between torque and horsepower?
A:

RPM * torque(ft-lb)
HP= ----------------------
5252

Anyone have the metric version? I am too lazy
(i.e., kW = Nm * RPM / 60?)

ELECTRICAL
==========

Q: On the electrical diagrams, do the circuit numbers have any meaning?
A: Yes. VW uses Bosch numbering scheme, as do BMW & M-B. The most common ones
are:
1 = Ground (0 Volt)
15= Switched Positive (Hot when ignition is on)
30= Always hot "12 Volt" (even though it'll closer to 13.4 Volt)

Q: My battery is not charging well, I am only showing 12V when charging rather
than 13.4V. What is wrong?
A: There are numerous causes for this. Most of the time the problem is fairly
trivial. Going from cheapest to most expensive, try the following:

- Check the ground connections, possibly install a new ground from
alternator to battery rather than using the engine block/transmission as
conductor. Forget trying to find the bad connection with an Ohm meter: Say
your alt. puts out 50 Amps, you'll get a drop of 1 Volt for each .02 Ohm!!!
Most VOMeters are not accurate enough in this range.
So, those tiny little resistances that have build up over the years REALLY
add up.
Use a THICK (10 or less Gauge or "AWG"), multistrand wire.
- Check the alternator wiring harness. Same reason as above.
- Clean all related connectors (sand paper, file).
- Check for an unusual drain (unlikely but possible)
- Check/clean/replace the alternator brushes (easy, see wear limits in
Bentley).
- Check the battery water level (use distilled water)
- Have the battery checked (it may be shorting out)
- Have the alternator checked (diodes and regulator may be bad). Alternator
replacement is by the way trivial. If the alternator is bad, upgrade to a
higher amp one, especially in older cars and if you have a powerful stereo
system or aux lights 90 amp replacements are the current "hot" ticket. Euro
car had a detailed procedure on this about 1 or 2 years ago.

Q: What do the H1, H2...H4 designations mean?
A: These are the type of Halogen bulbs used in US non-sealed beam lamps
(reflector & glass) since 1985 and longer for the rest of the world. The
same lamps are also used in fog/driving lamps. They are available in
regular strength (around 55 W) and more.
H1 - Single filament lamp
H2 - Single filament lamp?
H3 - Single filament lamp?
H4 - Dual filament lamp

Tip: When installing new (Halogen) light bulbs in your car, make sure you
DO NOT touch the glass part of the light bulb with your fingers.
This is because the oil from your fingers gets so hot that it makes the
bulb really hot and it explodes. [If you do, clean it off with a high
concentrate alcohol: methanol, ethanol or isopropanol].

Q: How can I improve night visibility/increase light output?
A: >>>>Need contributions here!!!!!
It all depends what you are starting from, and in what country you live.
USA: Sealed beam units till 84 required, "aerodynamic" allowed thereafter
but must still conform to a rather pointed spread. 3 DOT nipples for
alignment required.
Canada: Same as USA. Northern Canada has slightly different regulations.
Europe: Sealed beams forbidden. Light is more evenly distributed. Some
countries require yellow lights, and different settings for city, highway
and hi-beam lights.

Beware that whatever you do, you must NOT blind on coming traffic.
Some of the suggestions below are actually illegal for street use in the
US. However, judging from the large number of misaligned lights in the US,
your "illegal" mods will be less blinding than a normal but badly aligned
set of lights.
However, oncoming traffic may automatically assume that you are blinding
when they see more than 2 lights on at once (+ it may be illegal in some
states/driving conditions).
EuroCar had several articles on lighting in 91/92.

To improve visibility, try the following:

- Align your headlights. See Bentley or your local code for specs. I
usually go a tad higher than the specs w/o blinding.
- Change to halogen lights (yes, some of the sealed beam units are not even
halogen).
- Clean the underside of your non-sealed beam units with some alcohol on
some cotton/rag at the end of a wire/stick. (Pretty tricky.)
- Add fog lights (very wide, low, but not far reaching). Set up correctly,
fog lights DO NOT blind, per definition. Don't buy generic brands, but
minimally go for Bosch, Hella, Cibie and others.
- Add driving lights (narrow and far reaching). Set up according to specs
these DO blind, however, they can often be set up lower so that blinding
can be almost entirely eliminated.
- Change to one of the non-sealed aftermarket units, which are usually the
European style lamps.
- Change to the equivalent European "aero-style" units (e.g., A2 Jetta).
These are available from a number of sources and have much better beam
characteristics than DOT approved lamps provide. Your ability to use them
will be a function of the level of detail your state motor vehicle
inspection requires. In NJ, they have to come out to pass inspection [Tom
Coradeschi].
- Change to poly ellipsoidal, high-energy, "DE" lights. This is the newest
technology in lighting technology, more commonly found on newer BMWs
(though BMW uses an arc lamp rather than halogen). EuroCar had several
articles about these in 91/92.
- Change the wattage of your bulbs. This is actually not a good solution
because your lenses may crack because of heat build-up, moisture
accumulates faster, wiring may not be able to carry the load, may blind,
may not fit in all non-sealed units [According to Andy, you cannot not put
higher wattage lightbulbs into the stock North American light lenses.
Unverified...jan]
The 70/90 Watt versions of the H4 can be bought at off-road places such as
Competition Limited, (313) 464-1458 according to Dilmore.

Q: What's that extra bright red light on some European cars?
A: That's a "Hinternebelshutslicht" (sp?), or rear-fog anti-crash light. Many
of the newer cars shipped to the US have these incorporated (but not
connected) into the rear lenses [Corrados, Passats, Audis]. Very effective
in fog, snow and heavy rain.

Q: Why does my fog light switch have two positions that do not have any
effect?
A: It's to switch on the rear fog light(s), which is often not connected in
cars shipped to the US & Canada.

Q: Why should I use Dielectric grease, and on what?
A: Dielectric grease is a NON-conducting grease that seals out moisture and
therefore prevents corrosion on electrical connectors. This also happens to
be one of the main problems with older VWs, and currently one of the causes
of bad idle/ecu (connector) failures. The jury is still out on this
grease... some claim it will get hard. Others have suggested to use a
conducting paste as used on aluminum residential wiring. The latter will
aid in conduction, but should not be used in high voltage cables (spark
plugs) or where several wires are adjacent because of potential shorts.

TRANSMISSION
============

Q: What shift mechanisms do VWs use over the years?
A: A1 & A2:
Mechanical linkages
Corrado & Passat:
Cable linkages (The SLC/VR6 uses a SIMILAR mechanism as the G60,
contrary to some "knowledgeable" car mags. The main difference is a
counter weight on the SLC, and a different mounting bracket)
A3:
Mechanical linkages with counter weight, ?Cable linkages on VR6?

Q: What size clutches did VW use over the years?
A: According to Peter Tong:
There are 4 sizes. 190mm early gas rabbit (A1s), 200mm diesel rabbits,
210 mm 83-84 GTI, 85-92 G/J/ (A2s). I think Sachs also sells a 215mm clutch
kit as well - aftermarket.
Many clutches in these sizes come for road and racing applications.
You can also combine clutch discs with different strength pressure plates
as well. 16V clutch is similar but has provision for the AGB tranny's
larger input shaft.

Note from Jan: In most cases a racing clutch ("4 puck") is really not
needed for street or Autocross uses. VW clutches can easily handle well
above stock power. Furthermore, racing clutches are very harsh (like, all
or nothing) and much stiffer to depress.

Q: How can I improve shift effort/meshing of my gears? First gear feels like
there is something blocking it?
A: First check out the linkage adjustments, regrease where needed, and older
cars, possibly replace the old linkages/bushings. A special spacer tool is
needed for one of the adjustments (A1 & A2) which happens to be exactly the
same size as the skinny side of an audio cassette. Other special tools may
be needed.

Also check out whether the motor/transmission mounts are ok, misalignment
will cause shifting problems as will a dragging clutch.
If your shifting effort is hard/stiff on cold days & grinds in 1st & 2nd,
but easier once warmed up you may want to change to a synthetic
transmission fluid (see below).

Q: First gear grinds? <NOISE>
A: Shift into third thirst then shift into first.

Q: What transmission fluid should I use (manual cars)?
A: As far as I know, most/all water cooled VW transmissions require gear fluid
with an API rating of GL-4 (MIL-2105).
The recommended GEAR viscosity hovers around 80W, 75W-80 or 75W-90
Note that 75W-80 GEAR oil is equivalent to 10W30 MOTOR oil, but it is NOT
recommended to use motor oil in gear boxes, even though some Japanese cars
do so any way (has to do with shear strength).
GL-5 oil is made to lubricate gears (like in a differential) and may cause
premature wear on brass synchros.

NOTE that GL-5 is recommended for the *differential* on some AUTOMATIC VWs
and on some manual transmissions. However most VW *Manual* transmissions
need GL-4. Check your user manual or VW.

Quality of the gear oil makes a HUGE difference in shifting.
I have personally tried Castrol (HORRIBLE), SWEPCO (Better), VW gear oil
(good, I suspect that they use a synthetic in some cars), and Redline MTL
(best so far). Others seem happy with Mobil 1, Synthoil, Spectro, etc.
How these oil affect transmission life is unknown to me. Note that MTL is
rated 75W80, while their newer product MT90 has a rating of 75W90 which may
be closer to the required viscosity of your transmission.

VW also sells synthetic transmission oil (at US$20/liter) which is rumored
to be very good as well.

Most VW transmissions use somewhere around 2-2.5 liters of oil.
Before you drain, make sure you have something to catch the oil (an old
jumbo coffee can is perfect).
Open the side fill hole first, because you'll have to fill it up to either
the fill hole or BEYOND. You'll therefore either have a little bit leak out
or 1/2 liter gush out.
To drain (the rest), unscrew 17 mm allen plug at the bottom of
transmission.
To fill, either unscrew speedometer cable or use the fill hole on the side.
Some VWs require the level of the oil to be just so that some drips out of
the fill hole, others (some A2 Golfs/Jettas) require an additional 1/2
liter on top of that. That's why it's a good idea to catch the old stuff
and check the fill hole first.

[NOTE: Some VW User's Manuals apparently do recommend GL-5 in some
transmissions, so check first! b...@cellar.org seems to be doing ok with
Redline GL-5 after 100kmiles in his car.]

[NOTE: One recent posting by (Paul Keller) blames his transmission failure
on MTL, and claims that Redline recommends MT90 only for VWs. At this point
it is unclear to me whether MTL is to blame, and whether using MT90 would
have made much of a difference. Keep in mind that he is one of two so far
which blame Redline out of many who have had no problems so far.]

TIP: Glue a small round magnet on the outside of the drain plug. They can
be bought cheaply at electronics stores, and it will attract metal
particles that may damage the transmission. Older VWs used to have magnetic
drain plugs, but VW stopped using them for some reason.

Q: What's a CV Joint?
A: Constant Velocity Joints (Joint Homokinetique (Fr)) connect the two ends of
your two drives shafts to your differential and the wheels. They allow the
drive axle to move and allows you to transmit power when you turn. The
closest equivalent is a Universal Joint.

Q: How do CV Joints go bad and how can I prevent it from happening?
A: CV Joints wear out over time, like any other moving part. However they wear
out prematurely when the boot that surrounds them cracks and lets in dirt,
or when the CV grease deteriorates.
The boots crack because of age or because of street debris, and therefore
the outer CVJs (esp. with the more exposed CVJs in A1 cars) are most
subject to tearing. To detect a tear in outer CVJ boot is easy: it'll throw
black grease all around your inner rim, around your brake.
Whenever you check your tire pressure, check for those signs.
To detect a rip in an inner CVJ boot, and small cracks in the outer, you
need to manually inspect them. If you detect a ripped boot early, you can
get away by merely repacking the CVJ boot with CVJ grease and a new boot.
NOTE: VW and Loebro sell boot kits, that includes everything you need for
the job (about US$15).
If on the other hand, you did not detect the rip early, or you hear a
knocking sound when you turn, you may have to <NOISE> replace the entire
CVJ, a messy procedure requiring special tools.
Other symptoms of a bad CVJ includes increased & uneven steering effort
while driving.

CVJs also fail because the CVJ grease deteriorates over time because of
heat exposure.
Here too the outer ones get the most beating because of the heat generated
by the brake disks.

Generally, you should repack the outer (& change the boots) every 60k
miles. The inner ones usually last closer to 100k miles. If however you see
pitting and scoring of any of the inner surfaces you may as well replace
them.

Tip: [First heard from WolfSport, reported by [Borowski]) There are many
times when both wheel drive shafts need to be removed (two torn boots,
etc.) This is a perfect opportunity,to switch the CV joints to the opposite
sides. They will then wear on different internal surfaces, extending their
life.

Q: What tool should I use to remove my inner CV Joint (driveshaft-to-drive
axle flange) bolts?
A: Most VWs use an 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple
square. Snap On triple-square CV socket, Part number (3/8" drive) = FTSM8C.
Also available from other brands/dealer.

According to Greg Moore: It's also the same fitting as is on the teardrop-
style alloy wheel covers. [Verified: Tom Coradeschi]

Q: How do I know my front wheel bearings are shot?
A: They'll make a roaring "wowowowow" sound, and the noise <NOISE> may change
depending whether you are heading straight or turning. Special tools are
needed to remove the bearing (cost ~150US$) though the bearings themselves
are around 30US$/each. Certain performance places listed above will sell
bearings packed with synthetic grease (last much longer, racing
applications).

BRAKES
======

Q: What brakes do VWs come with?
(Note the dates are +/- 1 yr).
A: Pre-80:
Fronts= Teves or Girling discs (early Euro had drums as well)
Rears= drums, non-self adjusting
Post-80:
Fronts= Kelsey Hayes ("Banana pads"), Girling(?) on Passats non-vented &
vented on high end cars. Rotor diameter increased over the years.
Rears= self adjusting drums or Teves disc (high end)
General:
Later cars have brake proportioning valves, several types used, some are
with the master cylinder (84S) others are in front of the rear axle beam
on the left.

Q: I need to change my brake pads, which should I get?
A: This is a tricky question, and depends on what car you drive and whether
you were happy with what you had.

Normal driving, no problem with fade:
Stock VW, or Mintex Silver pads. Repco Semi-Metallic are ok as well. Others
like or prefer Wagner Pads.
Autocross:
Repco Metallic. Be aware that these pads require significant more pedal
pressure, and suck when cold.
Advantages: Fade resistant, less brake dust, no squeal.

Q: Is it easy to change pads/shoes?
A: On most newer VWs, changing front pads is next to trivial. Rear pads
require more work because the piston needs to be screwed in which is either
done with a allen (hex) wrench or a special tool. Rear shoes (drums) are
probably the hardest, but still easy enough. Follow Bentley and/or Muir.

Q: Do I need to turn my rotors each time I change pads?
A: Another religious issue...
In general: NO, unless your rotors are badly scored. If they are warped,
replace (it's cheap and easy to do). Call places like APS & WolfSport.
Note: If you take the rotors off yourself, turning them at a machine shop
costs very little.

Q: How often should I bleed my brakes and change the fluid?
A: Brake fluid should be changed AT LEAST every two years. Bleeding should be
done yearly and after an Autocross. Brake fluid absorbs water which
corrodes the lines. Bleeding regularly will significantly increase safety
and life of your brake components.
DOT 4 fluids have a higher boiling point than DOT 3 fluid but are also more
hydrophilic and therefore must be replaced more frequently than DOT 3.

Q: What brake fluid should I use?
A: Check the manual. Most older VWs use DOT 3. The newer ones use DOT 4 or
Super DOT 4 (higher boiling point). Castrol makes one which is both DOT 3
and 4 compatible with a very high boiling point.
The only place I have found Super DOT 4 in the US is at the VW dealer.
One of the dealerships here also recommends Wagner as an aftermarket DOT 4
oil.
The higher the boiling the better: Brake -> heat -> fluid boils -> bubbles
-> loss in brake pressure -> crash.

Q: How do I remove the screw that holds the front rotor in place?
A: If a screwdriver & liquid wrench does not work, try an impact screwdriver.
It's a screwdriver that makes a 1/4 turn when hit by a hammer.

Tip: When changing the rotors, make sure you put a bundle of anti-seize on
the inside of the new rotors so they do not get stuck to the hub.
Also remove as much rust and gunk so that the rotors seat well.
I had to take mine off the hard way: Heat until red, cool with cold water,
hammer and use a pry bar.
Also make sure you antiseize the screw that holds the rotor in place. If
the head is messed up you can try reslotting, but chances are it won't help
either.

If the screw head is messed up be extremely careful with those easy-offs/
screw or tap extractors.
When they break, you cannot get them out.
Andy's recommendation is to drill out the screw with the right diameter
drill instead, rethread, and put in a new screw of a larger diameter. You
don't want to make the hole too big either, though you could use a thread-
locker to come back to the original size.
Note that that screw is not vital! It only holds the rotor temporarily in
place until the wheel bolts torque the rim/rotor/hub sandwich together.

Q: What and why vented rotors?
A: Braking converts motion into heat. Heat needs to be dissipated. The faster
you can dissipate heat the better you can stop, and less fade.
Vented rotors essentially have two parallel "discs" with an airspace in
between to increase cooling.
Many of the Kesley-Hayes non-vented front rotors can be replaced with
vented ones and thinner pads without replacing calipers for a slight gain
in braking power.

Q: Why cross drilled rotors?
A: Braking produces gasses, and cross drilling give the gasses a way to
escape, thereby increasing contact pressure. Personally [Jan] I do not
advice cross drilled rotors because of the increased likelihood of
cracking. DO NOT CROSS DRILL ROTORS YOURSELF. It's usually done on an NC
machine at calculated positions and possibly followed by stress relieving.

Q: I hear a "clunk" each time I brake/start? <NOISE>
A: Check whether all the anti-rattle springs are still there (two per
caliper).

Q: How do I prevent my brakes from squealing? <NOISE>
A: Chances are that you have the original semi-metallic VW brakes pads, which
are notorious for this.
First line of defense is to get that "anti-brake-squeal goo" (comes in a
tube or a spray can) and apply it to the BACKS of all your pads. That stuff
is essentially liquid high temp rubber that will dampen vibrations.
The second line of defense is to change to a different brake pad brand.
See the Repco_MetalMasters file on this subject.
(In short, do not get Repco MM's unless you want to race, their Semi-
Metallics are closer to stock in brake feel, while someone else recommends
Wagner pads.)

Q: When standing on the brake pedal, my foot slowly sinks to the floor? What's
wrong?
A: You either have a leak or your master cylinder is shot. Don't bother trying
to rebuild the master cylinder, unless you have access to high precision
tools. Mexican made replacements tend not to last long. Get the German OEM
ones or the VW one (same thing, more $$$$).

Q: Problems with rear drum brake lock up?
A: This can have many causes:
- Out of round drums. Have them turned or replaced (easy, cheap)
- Change shoes
- Out of adjustment or self adjusting mechanism not functioning right
- Handbrake cable out of adjustment
- Proportioning valve out of adjustment or faulty
- Incorrect cylinders installed (17mm vs 14 mm, they look very similar but
make a 40% in brake pressure!)
- Faulty master cylinder.

Q: Is it worthwhile changing my rear drums to disc brakes?
A: For normal purposes: NO. For racing and other purposes, maybe. Considering
the high cost of this swap and considering that only 30% of all braking
power comes from the rear, it is usually not worth the effort. Concentrate
on the fronts instead.

Q: What grease should I use on the rear axles of my VW.
A: A high quality Lithium based grease with Molibdenum disulfide (MoS2) (all
VW shops have switched to this).
In general you can use "Moly-Slip" grease where you used to use the old
"White Lithium" grease. MoS2 works a bit like graphite in that it doubles
the lubrication properties of the base grease.
Note: Generally do not mix greases of different base, e.g., an Aluminum
based grease with Lithium base. They may react and lose lubrication
properties. Note2: CV Joints use a special grease, less viscous grease.

Q: What are the benefits of steel braided brake lines?
A: The reports I have received is that it improves brake feel marginally (less
expansion of the tubes) but that the steel is also subject to more
corrosion.

[According to Volney....@Corp.Sun.COM]: They are not recommended for
street use.
Reason: Lines are rigid and will not flex with the body as it turns and
reacts to road imperfections--rubber hoses will.
As a result, the lines can often get pinched and fail.
Stainless lines are OK in racing applications because race cars are subject
to constant inspections/bleeding/maintenance. If there is an alignment
problem it will likely be discovered. Most people probably are not as
disciplined in street applications making the this mod impractical.

>>>>VOLUNTEERS>>>>?????
Needed: diagnosing problems

TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION
=====================

Q: What are "standard" (factory) tire sizes for my VW?
A: The following tires sizes (see the r.a FAQ for how to read these) result in
equivalent circumferences and standard on most passenger VWs over the
years. The implication of this list is that in principle (if you have
clearance!) you could upgrade your tire/rims by traversing this list! The
whole aim with changing to different tire sizes is to stay within a
reasonable margin of the original tire diameter.

155/80-13 => Rabbit (1975-1978), Golf Diesel, maybe other A2's
165/70-13 => Rabbit (1979-1984)
175/70-13 => Scirocco, Jetta, Rabbit GTI, optional for Rabbit, most non-
performance A2s, A3 Golf
185/55-15 => GTX (16V Jettas in Canada), 16V GLI
185/60-14 => Golf GTI, Jetta GLI (85-87) Carat (86-89), Jetta (90-93),
Scirocco 16V, A3 Golf
195/60-14 => Quantum, Passat, A3 Golf
205/55-14 => Golf GTI 16V (1987-1989)
195/50-15 => Golf GTI 16V (1990-), Jetta GLI/GTX 16V, Passat GL (1991-)
195/50-15 => Corrado G60 (1991-1992)
205/50-15 => Passat Syncros G60 (1991 +), Canadian 1991 Passat GL
205/50-15 => All VR6 models; 5-bolt rim
215/50-15 => All Passat VR6 models; 5-bolt rim; 6" rim

Some non-factory combinations are:
205/60-13
215/45-15
Here's M. Sirota's extensive list of NOMINAL sizes. Actual sizes vary:

Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
155/80-13 124mm 289mm 578mm 1816mm 886 0.0%
165/80-13 132mm 297mm 594mm 1867mm 862 2.8%
175/70-13 122mm 288mm 575mm 1807mm 891 -0.5%
185/60-14 111mm 289mm 578mm 1815mm 887 -0.1%
195/60-14 117mm 295mm 590mm 1852mm 869 2.0%
205/55-14 113mm 291mm 581mm 1826mm 882 0.5%
195/50-15 98mm 288mm 576mm 1810mm 889 -0.4%
205/50-15 102mm 293mm 586mm 1841mm 874 1.3%
185/55-15 102mm 292mm 584mm 1836mm 876 1.1%

Rim ranges (from a Euro-Tire's Catalog):

TIRE RIM RANGE Diameter
185/55 15 5"-7" 23.03"
195/55 15 5.5-7.5 23.43
195/50 15 5.5-7 22.72
205/50 15 5.5-7.5 23.11

Q: Are VW rims interchangeable?
A: Most VW rims are interchangeable, with the exception of the Corrado G60 and
SLC are minimum 15"; Jetta GLI/GTX 16V (and I think Passat) is minimum 14",
others will take 13". There are five distinct bolt patterns:
5/180mm (?) Early air-cooled
4/130mm Late air-cooled
5/130mm (?) Transporter/Vanagon
4/100mm Water-cooled
4/100mm Water-cooled
5/100mm VR6 models

They will also work on any car with a 4-bolt 100mm hub. These include Honda
(some models), BMW (3-series, 2002...), Omni GLH, Mazda (Miata and possibly
others), and any Audi 4-bolts before they switched to 108mm.
NOTE: Check OFFSET and center opening before attempting swaps! VW hubs
*MUST*BE*HUB-CENTRIC*. This means that the hub opening of the wheel must
fit the wheel hub snugly enough to center the wheel. THIS IS IMPORTANT!

Note: The center hole of a Honda rim is too small to fit on a VW, the
offset is wrong.

Q: Will wider tires help my performance?
A: There is no straight answer! There are really three main factors that
determine handling (disregarding suspension changes for now):
1) Frictional coefficient between the tire and the road,
2) Contact patch size and geometry,
3) Tire sidewall stiffness.
If you keep the frictional coefficient constant as well, you have two
parameters to play with: Width and Sidewall stiffness. Wider tires will
change the contact patch from an oval to a more elongated oval, which
generally improves handling, but increases steering effort, and makes the
car more prone to aquaplaning (hydroplaning) in wet weather and in snow it
never gets to through the snow. In snow conditions the best way to go is
small rims (13" for A1 & A2) with a 165-175/70/13 tire on it.>>>ADD MORE
PROPERTIES???
However, another, perhaps more important factor is sidewall stiffness. The
stiffer the sidewall, the less the tire will flex sideways which improves
turning, transients, steering accuracy >>>OTHERS?
Therefore going from a 175/70-13 tire to a "plus 1" 185/60-14 or a "plus 2"
195/50-15 tire will elongate the contact patch, reduce the sidewall height
==> increase side wall stiffness and therefore improve handling. However
changing from 185/60 to a 195/60 may or may not do much good: The contact
patch is more favorable but the sidewall is also increased in height ==>
more flex.
Test by VW and EuroCar have shown that a GTI with 185/60 tires handles
about the same as one with 205/55.
But there is more to it as well!
Tires, even within one type & size, may have different sidewall stiffness
(e.g. HR vs VR), and compound! A softer compound will grip better, but wear
faster..
Wider rims make a big difference due to a better lateral support,
effectively increasing sidewall stiffness.
NEVER use 5.5" on a 185/60 or wider tire; the wider the better, at least
within reason. A 7" rim would probably be ideal for a 195/50R15 tire for
the street.

Q: What are the "standard" VW wheel offsets (the amount the rim is offset from
the hub)?
A: Rim Offset [From TomH, unverified but probably correct]
13x5 45 mm
13x5.5 38 mm
14x6 38 mm
15x6 35 mm (BBS 1-piece, # 165 601 026 091)
15x6.5 33 mm (BBS 2-piece)

Q: What is the largest rim/tire sizes that will fit on my VW?
A: It depends from model to model. Also, make sure you get the right rim
offset or your handling will degrade enormously.

Scirocco I:
Front: 185 or 195 mm wide depending on model
Rear: 205 mm (?)
Max Rim: 15"x6"
Scirocco II:
205?
Rabbit I:
205/60R13 will fit fine.
Rabbits/Jetta:
Usually > Scirocco!
Golf/Jetta II:
215/45R15 fits, at least on a GTI with flared fenders.
15 x 6 & 195/50/15 fit also, =? GTI/GLI
GTI/GLI:
215?
Corrado:
Lower rim limit are 15" rims due to brake calipers
Tire limit =? 225
EuroTire sells 15" steel rims for mounting snow tires.
Passat:
?

Remember, offset is very important in determining tire fit!

>>>ADD MORE ENTRIES>>>This needs to be improved [jan]

Q: How do I know whether my shocks are worn out?
A: Shocks either lose their damping capability or freeze up. The result is
that your car may not handle well (or safely). When you bounce the front of
the car, a good set of shocks will stop the motion in less than one cycle:
Bounce the car couple times, let go, and it should go up and a small amount
down and then STOP.
Just look at your old mechanics/physics books for damped and undamped
impulse response of a spring and damper combination.
Test for seizing: you press down, and it stays down. Note that Sport Shocks
may be so stiff that it will barely move when you press down.
Note also that this failure mode occurs mostly on A1 cars which put too
much side loads on shocks.
I [Jan] went thru several virtually indestructible Bilstein sport shocks
due to this failure. Hold on that receipt for life time warrantee!!!!

Also suspect your shock if you hear an excessive amount of swishing.<NOISE>
That's cavitation (local boiling of oil) which usually accelerates wear.
"Gas" shocks contain a chamber of pressurized gas that keeps the oil under
pressure and prevents cavitation, increasing damping capabilities and
reducing wear.
For the front "shocks" you have two choices for replacement: You can either
buy an entirely new strut (which is the whole assembly, usually sold in
combination with springs) or replace the shock insert in your existing
strut (cheaper, more work). Most of the time you replace the insert.
The rear shocks are replaced as a whole, and fairly easy to do yourself.
Note that the fronts tend to wear out long before the rears.
Note, if you replace the front shocks you may want to consider replacing
the upper strut bearings.

Q: I want to improve the handling of my VW? Where should I start?
A: Start reading back issues of EuroCar & VW Performance books. It all depends
what you want and for what purpose (street, autocross, etc).
Tires & Rims:
First, go to a sticky tire in the stock size. Then, a wider rim. Then, a
+1 or +2 (+3?) setup. Probably the biggest single improvement you can
make. HOWEVER, going from 165/80-13 to 205/50-15 will make an enormous
difference, going from 195/50-15 to 205/50-15 make actually degrade
handling (see other FAQ).
Shocks:
VW shocks don't last very long. The OEM shocks are from Sachs or Boge.
Stiffer shocks reduce roll, improve handling but also make the ride
harsher. Most competition & longer lasting shocks are called "gas
shocks". A compromise is to use adjustable shocks. Most popular
competition oriented shock brands are: Koni & Bilstein (debatable which
is better), then Tokico.
From M.Sirota: For non-competition, I'd rank them Bilstein, Sachs, Boge,
Koni, KYB (initial quality problems), Tokico (harsh).
Sway bars: (Anti-roll bars)
Reduce side to side roll. Essentially they increase the spring rate when
you turn, but leave the bilateral compression rates unchanged. Most
newer VW have sway bars already, but aftermarket ones are stiffer
(thicker) and are attached better. I personally prefer sway bars that
mount in almost stock positions (Neuspeed).
Stress bars:
Reduce body flex. A1 VWs are in most need of a lower front stress, while
all A1 & A2 VWs could benefit from an upper strut tower stress bar. The
rear upper shock tower stress bar is mostly for *extreme* race purposes.
Springs:
Springs don't normally wear out. However, there are competition oriented
springs that usually also lower the car.

**WARNING**:
Suspension changes will affect the way your car handles, especially under
emergency maneuvers. Therefore it is highly advised that you familiarize
yourself with your car before you use it in normal traffic conditions.
Taking a performance oriented driving class sponsored by one of the car
clubs is therefore highly advised.

>>>THIS NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED/REWRITTEN A BIT. SUGGESTIONS?
KEEP it to 1 liners.

Q: What is rim offset?
A: The distance between the rim's center line and its mounting surface. From
the picture below it should be obvious why it's important to retain proper
offset when you change rims: tire not centered properly affecting
drivability (negative roll radius changes), bearing load, rubbing on the
struts or wheel arches, etc.

The standard rim offsets are: 14" rims are all 38mm.

Cross sectional view of a rim:

Center Plane
|\____+____/|
|_____.____ | Street Side of Rim
. //
. //
. || Mounting Face
. ||

>--<
Rim Offset

Q: How do I know upper strut bearings are worn?
A: Those are the black rubber and brass metal that stick out of your shock
towers. They fail in two ways:
- Rubber gets stressed out: They'll stick more than ~1.5 cm above the shock
towers
- Metal bushing worn: Steering will feel loose, you may hear a clunking
noise at times. <NOISE> They are not that expensive (ca 25US$), and easy to
do once you get the strut out of the car.

(Mark Shaw) says something similar: If I can get the tips of my fingers
between the top plate and the housing with the vehicle standing on a level
surface, then the strut bearing has seen enough abuse. This was passed on
to me by a friend who works at the VW Proving Grounds south of Phoenix. He
also recommends that you use the ones with the "A" suffix on the part
number ([jan] note many aftermarket places sell heavy duty versions of
these, probably those with an "A")

I do not change them unless the strut cartridges are also weak. Experience
has shown me that in all cases strut bearings should be replaced when the
strut cartridges are replaced.

Note also that (Norm Heckman): A drop of 3/4" was given as a limit for auto
safety inspection rejection in N.Y. state. (drop = after you jack up the
car).

BODY/INTERIOR
=============

Q: My door sags, how can I straighten it?
A: [From an old WolfSport catalog:] Place a 15 mm socket between the arm and
foot of the lower hinge (to the outside of the hinge anchor bolt). You'll
have to almost close the door to get & keep it in place. Now gently! exert
some force on the door & the check alignment.

[From Jim Macklow] I've had success with my wife's Rabbit by doing the
following: Open door, then jack up door with floor jack, making sure the
door is closed as far as possible.

Q: How do I eliminate all the rattles, squeaks and buzzes in my car? <NOISE>
A: VWs are unfortunately well known for this. Part of the cause is the rather
stiff suspension and hard motor mounts that just rattles the car apart.
Often the fix is easy once you find the cause. The following are a few
tricks that I have used over the year that will help eliminate a good deal
of them.

Tip: Start with cleaning the inside and outside of the car, and remove all
the coins and pens stuck in the seat rails. Then take a screw/nut driver
and fasten all accessible interior screws and bolts. If a particular
screw/bolt loosens frequently, use Loctite (tm). The bolt that holds the
seat back adjustment knob is notorious for loosening and rattling. Have
someone drive around while you go around and isolate where all the noise
comes from.

Another weird one that helps with some rattles and groans is to install a
lower stress bar on A-1 cars that do not have one, and apparently an upper
shock tower stress bar on all others (haven't tried this yet, but Aaron @
APS claims that it helps surprisingly well).

Q: Something in my dash rattles? <NOISE>
A: That's probably the most common and most annoying place for it to happen.
VWs have actually improved over the years and so we can learn from their
attempts to reduce rattles. Most of the rattles are caused by loose wires
and components touching the vent tubes or other solid material. VW often
uses electric tape to hold things together, but over time the tape loosens
and falls off. What you need to do is get a bunch of tie wraps, bundle
everything back, get some "nerf foam" or sheets of black felt and position
it between the wires, vents and other stuff. Using felt or foam between
interior vinyl covered body panels also helps eliminate a lot of squeaks
there.
(Note that Corrados now have strips of black felt glued to the back of
virtually all plastic panels).
Another type of dash squeak is caused by plastic components rubbing against
each other. Usually a dose of ClearGuard will help eliminate that but if
you have the space try glueing some felt between the two.

A tip from (Tim Hogard): Tighten the the two nuts that hold the dash in
that are on the engine side of the firewall.

Q: My doors/hatch/vinyl squeak over bumpy roads, especially when cold? <NOISE>
A: "Lubricate" the door seals with Talcum powder or ClearGuard. "Lubricate"
the rest with ClearGuard or Silicone spray. You may also want to adjust the
doors so they close better by first loosening the strike pin and moving it
either in or out. The rear hatch lock can also be moved a bit, but it's
easier to adjust those black knobs on either side of the hatch. They screw
in and out.

Q: My suspension groans when I go over a speed bump/other bumps? <NOISE>
A: Check for squeaky muffler hangers, and sway bar bushing! If the sway bar
bushing noise is not eliminated with some silicone Spray (especially the
polyurethane variety) then take them apart and relube with a good grease
(MoS2. Haven't tried "marine grease" as yet but thinking about it). The
same is true for other rubber based suspension components (e.g., A-arm
bushings).

Q: Something in my door rattles? <NOISE>
A: First make sure it's not a screw which is loose (lots hidden away). If
that's not the case then take the door panel off and check all the screws
inside. Tighten, use Loctite, possibly use foam and felt to prevent
components from banging against each other. Some recommend installing a
sound deadening material such as Dynamat (tm).
Before putting the door panel back, you may want to use some foam strips
(like the window air seals) to provide some spacing for the snaps.
While you are at it, clean the drain holes and lube the lock & window
mechanism.

Q: How should I take care of my car's exterior? What products to use?
A: Wash on a regular basis. First, hose down car, don't aim at locks, gas cap,
etc. Also hose down the radiator & underside of the car.
Use one of the available car wash products in a bucket & sponge down car.
(All this to be done in the shade).
I have tried several types of shampoo, like the RainDance, dislike the
Meguire's Shampoo. Other suggestions are welcome.
Rinse sponge often to avoid scratching the paint. Generally work from
cleanest areas (roof) to dirtiest (front sides) of car.
Keep car wet (on a dry day in CA, the car dries almost instantly leaving
water marks).
Hose down soap, and with a fresh bucket of water and a chamois or a
synthetic chamois, dry car.
Again, rinse the rag as often as you can.

Wax at least twice a year, with a good brand of wax. Wax only after the car
has been thoroughly washed. Follow the directions of the product and either
use clean rags or cotton wool to apply wax.
Why wax? It puts a protective layer over your paint, and replenishes lost
oils.
Hard waxes (e.g., Carnuba based waxes) tend to last longer but require a
lot of work.
See what the local body shop uses (the one I visit use Meguire's
professional line of products, but it's by no means the only wax. I like it
as well, used to use RainDance wax but stopped because it is rumored to be
too abrasive, hated Nu-Finish. The ultimate is Zymol, 800-999-5563, but it
costs a lot!)
Wax horizontal surfaces more frequently (hood, roof).
If rain does not bead up and slide off the car, it's time to rewax.
Polish your car sparingly, e.g., if you want to get rid of swirls,
scratches or an oxidized layer of paint.
Polishes contain fine grit and therefore ares rather abrasive.
You can get polishes with different grades of grit, e.g., see Meguire's
line of polishers: swirl remover, deep cut cleaner, etc.
The coarsest version of a polish is a rubbing compound.
It will not leave a shine, and works just like a piece of sand paper.
It is mainly used to even out portions that were repainted.
Note that you can buy 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper which in some
cases is actually finer than some rubbing compounds.
They may come in handy when you are trying to smooth a repainted scratch.

Note that many "waxes" contain both detergents and polishing compounds.
Some work quite well (e.g., DuPont's Rain Dance) but some find it too
abrasive for frequent use. That's why it's better to use non-abrasive
waxes, and only polish when you need it.

Glazing compounds are a bit like wax: they replenish lost chemicals in the
paint, but the protective layer they provide does not last very long (e.g.,
Meguire's Show Car Glaze). For a deep shine I often first use a glaze then
a carnuba wax. I have tried some of the supposed once a year hi-tech
"coverings" but was rather underwhelmed by the result.

To get the wax off the black trim, use some detergent or Simple Green & a
toothbrush. Then apply something like Armor All or ClearGuard. I believe
the latter is the current favorite. Don't hesitate to use this stuff on all
rubber components. It'll slow the ageing process a bit.

To get the rims clean is a different matter, especially the alloy rims.
VW's product is supposedly quite good, I would avoid most others as they
contain extremely caustic (i.e., HF) acids. I haven't found the "best"
formula as yet... I use Simple Green, dishwashing detergent and some
polishing compound.
To make your life easier, wax your rims. It'll also reduce pitting (which
is caused by a galvanic action between the hot brake metal particles and
your alloy). BTW, BBS rims are nice but a chore to clean.
On the tires use Armor All or Clear Guard. You can also buy stuff in cans
(Tire Shine), but I find it hard not to overspray all over the place (&
that stuff leaves marks on the floor).

To get windows real clean, wash with a strong detergent, perhaps followed
by some alcohol. Then use Windex or similar product and dry most with
rag/chamois and follow with a piece of newspaper paper. Works amazingly
well.
A product like Rain-X also cleans the windows real well as a side effect.
Some have complained that Rain-X leaves a hazy film (can be buffed out with
a *very* clean rag). Rain-X ("invisible windshield wipers") work quite well
on some windshields but only last a couple 1000 kms.

MISCELLANEA
===========

Q: When my Corrado spoiler retracts, it squeaks. What do I do? <NOISE>
A: "Lubricate" it with Talcum powder. Note that baby powder used to be talcum,
but because of the naturally occurring asbestos with talcum (I know, we are
all doomed), baby powder sometimes contains corn starch instead. Note:
Silicon spray dries out rubber and is not recommended.

Q: Are those ventilation filters sold by APS any good?
A: They are pure CRAP!!! They are too restrictive according to Roc Goolen. [If
you really want to filter your air, go to a hardware store, buy a furnace
filter for a couple $$ and rig it up somehow. Jan...later I tried that,
and wouldn't you know, that too restricted the airflow!
At least I only spent .40 US$ finding this out.]

Note that the filters that APS used to sell were made by Climismann (sp?);
they are now selling units made by Bosch and make the claim that they "work
much better." [Hmmmmm.... Ed.]

>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above address

Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.

jmm...@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
ma...@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dil...@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt...@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgo...@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
c...@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
boro...@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
to...@wes.on.ca (\tom haapanen)
te...@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gaje...@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
er...@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
da...@danix.uucp (Dan Simoes)
dil...@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
ted...@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
craw...@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
msi...@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
b...@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
sco...@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
chri...@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
ne...@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
rka...@unixd.cis.pitt.edu (Rajiv K. Agrawala)
wolf...@cse.fau.edu (Dan)
boro...@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
jjma...@infonode.ingr.com (Jim Macklow)
i...@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
ke...@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KIRBY ERLANDSEN)
mhem...@tsegw.tse.com (Mattias Hembruch)
pto...@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong)
mor...@quack.kfu.com (Brent Morton)
ch...@seattleu.edu (Anthony)
g...@macsch.com (Greg Moore)
tho...@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
mshe...@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
squ...@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
jdou...@mitre.org (Jason Douglas)
jay.mi...@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
pk...@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
ke...@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
scorn...@ws11.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
li...@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lito Lucena)
c...@cbnews.cb.att.com (conrad.f.matter)
chn...@world.std.com (Eric G Schneider)
Volney....@Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
rbr...@eng.umd.edu (Robert M. Briber)
frank.si...@mail.trincoll.edu (The Catt)
tc...@Pica.Army.Mil (Tom Coradeschi)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.

--
Jan Vandenbrande
j...@ug.eds.com (New address)
j...@lipari.usc.edu (school address, forwards)
UUCP: {uunet, uupsi}!ug!jan