greasing throwout bearing?
Nate Nagel
full of boiling water, fill a smaller pot with grease, set in boiling
water and let warm up, dunk bearing in grease and let it "cook" for a
while, wipe clean, install. Is this right?
There's a reason I'm reusing an old throwout bearing... (hard to find,
expensive part, and I've already spent WAY too much on stuff I wasn't
planning on buying, like an Avanti engine and 4-speed...)
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
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Denton
the gaps in the chain links...then would immediately drop the chain into a
hot pot of paraffin wax....
Would heat the wax until the chain started making boiling or popping
noise....which was the water boiling out of the chain links...the remaining
vacuum would pull in the hot paraffin.
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:e48hm...@news1.newsguy.com...
Dave Baker
> of boiling water, fill a smaller pot with grease, set in boiling water and
> let warm up, dunk bearing in grease and let it "cook" for a while, wipe
> clean, install. Is this right?
No. The bearing will almost certainly be sealed and if the factory fitted
grease can't get out in service I very much doubt you'll manage to get any
new grease in. Either it's good enough to re-use or you buy a new one. The
first lesson we learn about cars is don't skimp on new clutch bits when the
whole gearbox has to come back out again to fix anything.
--
Dave Baker
www.pumaracing.co.uk
Chas Hurst
"Dave Baker" <Dave...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:e49nue$pam$1...@news.datemas.de...
Many of the older T/O bearings were unsealed. Greasing them as Nate has
posted should work fine if it is unsealed.
Sometimes these old bearings can be found on the shelves of bearing jobbers
that have been in business for a few generations.
John S.
Nate Nagel wrote:
> what's the trick to greasing a throwout bearing? ISTR you get a pot
> full of boiling water, fill a smaller pot with grease, set in boiling
> water and let warm up, dunk bearing in grease and let it "cook" for a
> while, wipe clean, install. Is this right?
>
> There's a reason I'm reusing an old throwout bearing... (hard to find,
> expensive part, and I've already spent WAY too much on stuff I wasn't
> planning on buying, like an Avanti engine and 4-speed...)
>
> nate
As others have said it is possible to re-grease some old release
bearings. Assuming you are doing a complete clutch job and the part is
available I would think that the added cost would not be all that much.
It would be a shame to put all those hours into swapping and
rebuilding most of the power train only to be stalled 6 months from now
because of a busted release bearing.
Scott Dorsey
>Many of the older T/O bearings were unsealed. Greasing them as Nate has
>posted should work fine if it is unsealed.
>Sometimes these old bearings can be found on the shelves of bearing jobbers
>that have been in business for a few generations.
Industrial bearing sizes haven't really changed for years, and a good
industrial bearing house should be able to get any of the older standard
bearing sizes. You can usually ask for them with or without seals, and
you might be able to get them in stainless as well. There's no reason not
to use a modern sealed bearing, but if you're using an unsealed one, the
heating-dropping-into-grease trick is fine. I always heated them in a
light flame rather than in boiling water, though I don't see why boiling
water would be bad.
Packing the thing by hand with Mobil 1 Racing Grease would be okay also,
just using your thumb to force it in. I like the Mobil 1 stuff for open
bearings because it's very sticky and hard to fling off the bearing.
Since I went to Mobil 1 on the Eastman 25 film projector bearings (which
are not in oil baths like many other movie projectors), I have seen a great
increase in bearing life under hard-running conditions. It's was also
a great wonder for the C-V joints in my Chrysler....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
jfran...@gmail.com
N8N
It is unsealed... to be precise, it is a throwout bearing for a
Studebaker V-8, which can still be found NOS but for a price. I was
given a good used one by a guy who races Studebakers and for the price,
I'll try a repack. If nothing else the savings offsets, um, maybe 10%
of the cost of the aluminum flywheel :/
I may try packing by hand and see how it goes, as I have a good bit of
the Mobil 1 grease on hand as that's what I use in my grease gun (since
it's readily available at my FLAPS and this way I can use the same
grease gun for wheel bearings, chassis parts, and U-joints.)
nate
N8N
'55 Studebaker coupe body and frame; engine is a R-1 (Avanti) 289 with
a T-10 4-speed behind it. So basically, except for the rear springs,
the car thinks that it's a '63 or '64 Super Hawk even though it looks
like a '55. The bearing is so hard to find because it is unique to
Studebaker; the T-10 is pretty much a standard T-10 *except* for the
input shaft and bearing retainer; the clutch is a 10 spline Chevy
pattern but the pilot is larger in diameter and longer and the bearing
retainer (which the throwout bearing rides on) is also larger in
diameter than most contemporary apps. I *could* use a Ford or Chevy
T-10 and have a custom pilot bushing made to take up the difference,
but I have all the Studebaker parts at my disposal and I figured that
using them would make remembering what part came from where easier down
the road.
nate
Knifeblade_03
nate, you have nc how a throwout bearing is lubed. Scott has right idea,
if the bearing is not sealed, which you "conveniently" forgot to mention
make and model. You need to provide make, model, for help, otherwise, u
a moron.
yes, I am calling u out.
--
Knifeblade_03
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M.M.
> nate, you have nc how a throwout bearing is lubed. Scott has right idea,
> if the bearing is not sealed, which you "conveniently" forgot to mention
> make and model. You need to provide make, model, for help, otherwise, u
> a moron.
>
> yes, I am calling u out.
>
>
Plonk!
Nate Nagel
> nate, you have nc how a throwout bearing is lubed. Scott has right idea,
> if the bearing is not sealed, which you "conveniently" forgot to mention
> make and model. You need to provide make, model, for help, otherwise, u
> a moron.
>
> yes, I am calling u out.
>
>
I'd reply, but in honor of Mother's Day being this past weekend I'm
taking my momma's advice for once.
gfulton
"M.M." <nob...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:i_9ag.47125$iU2.23286@fed1read01...
I'd say that was a very accurate representation of the situation. Yeah.
Plonk.
Don Bruder
Nate Nagel <njn...@flycast.net> wrote:
> Knifeblade_03 wrote:
> > nate, you have nc how a throwout bearing is lubed. Scott has right idea,
> > if the bearing is not sealed, which you "conveniently" forgot to mention
> > make and model. You need to provide make, model, for help, otherwise, u
> > a moron.
> >
> > yes, I am calling u out.
> >
> >
>
> I'd reply, but in honor of Mother's Day being this past weekend I'm
> taking my momma's advice for once.
>
> nate
What is it with the meatheads showing up in the last week or so? Seems
to be an epidemic of them all over the groups. Yet September is still
months away, and "I just got a new internet-capabel computer for Xmas"
is long gone.
--
Don Bruder - dak...@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info